89gta,

Have you got times with the new setup yet? Also, how do you like it compared to your old superram/219/AFR combo? I remember you said you miss the low end torque some.

 

Can't attach the damn bin file.

Broke the tranny, so when it gets fixed, I'll hit the track.

 

Here is a little peak of the car this past weekend.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=565860

PLease download the videos for a look at a SR car on a big motor.

 

Ski_down_it,

Your not running nitrous on your runs are you? It says something in that corvette link "get to see how nitrous comes on at the end"

??

Maybe I misunderstood it?

just curious

 

No nitrous for Me........

The car I was running had a bunch as you can see him catch me at the end after I hammered him off the line and to where I missed 2 nd gear, then he pulls a 129 mph trap

 

Makes sense.

 

Sweet videos!

You need to get some under-hood vid with the car idling.

I want to hear that MAF sucking all that air!

WHOOOOOOOOSH!!!

 

WOW!!! :hail: :hail: :hail:

Ski, you got that Vette MOVING!!! I love it.

 

Dyno results posted fellas in another post...check it out,...check it out....

Thanks for the nice comments. You need anything let me know.

 

Its all about weight, traction, 60foot times..

ski_dwn_it ran what, 12.80 @ 105 with his 350.. THe e/t dictates good traction, weight, where his mph shows us he doesnt really have a whole lot of HP with that motor.

And now his 406 is running low 11's, and his dyno sheet showed like 440hp or something like that..

Jeez. maybe I should buy a vette...

-- Joe

 

Joe,

Its not about owning a vette, they are probably only 200 lb lighter than your car.

My 350 had every top ring broken on every cylinder.

its about knowing what to do and what not to do. That is why the trap speeds were low, it should have been in the mid to low 12 with that setup.

Its just about having a well matched up engine that every component compliments another.

 

Hey,

No track #'s for this year. Spending too much time on my boat.

With 3.27 rear end, NO nitrous, 6psi of boost (big pully), and MAF setup I was running 12.60 @ 110mph last season.

Race weight was 3690 last year.

Changes this year: MAP, 3.73 rear, N20, 10psi boost.

I figure last year I was seeing around 480hp at the flywheel with the 6psi of boost. I think with the 10psi this year, I'll prolly pick it up to around 520 or so. I'm not sure if I'll use the n20 yet.

With that said, without n20 I prolly will see a best of around 12.00 this year, Unless I can find a way to get lighter like you guys.. I can prollly sneak into the 11s with the n20, or snap my crank. Your guess is as good as mine...

..And I'm not being sarcastic in a negative way. I was serious about considering a vette. Fbody's are heavy..

-- Joe

 

Well I only have 3.07 gears so you don't need alot to tune good times. Also my car weights 3350 last year with my in it and a 1/4 tank of gas, then year its proably closer to 3450, with all the new stuff. PLus I have to run a 1/2 tank of gas now. So weight wise we are pretty equal, your only off by about 250 pounds.

Everyone thinks the vettes are light.....that Fiberglass is heavier than most think, at times depending on the mold, it very well might be heavier than sheet metal. like out hood, if the cylinder assist is bad, you better watch your back trying to lift it.

 

Do you think that the 3.07 gears helps you? I mean it would make sense in that it would help killing wheel spin as opposed to 4.11's...

What do you think?

 

I have preached about this as much as MAF on the vette forum.

In the nutshell here is what you want.

A firebreathing dragon engine 9:1 first gear ratio ie 3.06 (700r4 1st gear) x 3.07 (rear gear) = 9.39 if I did the math right in my head.

For a mild Engine you want: 12:1 using the same method above to figure it out.

then you have to decide where you are if your in between. It really boils down to your whole setup though. In my case my car makes crazy power down low and all the way though the power band. If I can keep in down there in the high torque, it might turn better power.

Have you watched the videos of my car from the rear taking out. What do you think would happen if I had more gears?

The tires would be up in smoke.

Overrevving and over gearing cars are the two things guys do to hurt themselves more than anything. And bigger gears means you most likely will overrev.

A setup had to be pretty well built to handle 6500+ RPM. Most guys don't even come close to having the money to spend to have a setup that is going to benefit from the added Rs. In most cases they go slower and beat their engines because of it.

I was at a track with a buy with a stock vette. He was disappointed in his times. 14.3sec. I asked him where he was shifting, and he said about 6300 RPM. I told him he was lucky if that intake flowed past 4500. I told him to shift at 4100 knowing he would overshift some. He turned a 13.9. He was estatic and said how is that possible. I said because from 4500-6300 your slowing down, and hammering your engine for nothing.

I might move mine down to 4800 the next trap appearance and see what it turns. I have mine set at 5400, and I know I overshift 1 st a little. Seeing the dyno there is no sence in going about 5150.

 

For my combo...I intend to keep my 3.27 gears...I have no desire to go up (numerically) because my powerband is similar to yours...

I agree that the 3.07 gears are a great option for you as for me due to the fact that we have street cars, not drag cars...

 

I'm running 3.45s on 17" Kumhos 245/45R17s.

I have NO traction on those things.

I've got an old set 15" rims laying around I ned to throw some slicks on to remedy that.

I do plan on going to a larger street tire - I want to put 275s on the rear to fill up the wheel well.
The gap back there is HUGE.

 

UPDATE:
Well, now I know I built a good engine.
This last weekend I drove the vert from Sumter to San Antonio, TX so I could put it into storage.
Drove the whole way without any major hiccups.
I still had my "hot start" problem.
I'm thinking that I have a BAD CTS that needs replacing.

I'll take care of it when I get settled in Dallas.

The weather was beautiful! I had the top down the whole way!
Gas mileage was alright - I made about 170-180 miles per HALF-tank.
I refilled every half-tank because I've been bit by GM's sh!tty gas guages before - mine seems to work well though.
Got pulled over once for speeding - 87 in a 70.
I received a verbal warning to slow down.

Overall the car ran great and I'm already missing it.
I hate seeing the empty spot in the garage.
I'm heading out to DFW in 2 days.
Hopefully I can get settled soon and go get MY CAR!!

 

EDIT: oops

Sorry!

 

Well, the car sat in San Antonio for a month while we got settled in DFW.
I went down to pick it up this last weekend and my car didn't make it on the trip back up.
My fuel pump died in the middle of stop and go traffic - not fun.

I wanted to cry. 65 miles from home and she took a dump on me.

I did the relay swap on the driver's side firewall and still no fuel pump.

$150 later and the car was towed to my place.
Last night I turned on the ignition and I heard a *click* from under the hood (fuel pump relay?) but no whine from the pump.

I'm praying for a relay/fuse/wiring problem.

If it turns out to be the pump what would you guys recommend?
Inline pump?
In-tank pump?
Which is better and what brand would you recommend?

 

Walbro gs340m with hot wire kit. Installing mine tonight.

Sorry to hear about your troubles...

 

I went with a walbro 255 one

 

Ragtop89 go here:http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ this guy's top notch, this is where I got my Walbro GSS340, and that's the pump you'll want. They deliver very fast too and this is the best price you'll find. You don't need the racetronix kit unless you want to spend more time under your car playing with wires.

 

My old combo with the SR was:

379 cid
AFR 195's
Comp Cam flat tappet, 12-404-4 222/226, .494/.494, 114 lsa with 1.6 RR,
~9:1 CR
T56
3.42 gears

Best dyno numbers:
STD corrected
399 rwtq at 3950 rpm
341 RWHP at 5000 rpm (but is essentially flat at 340 from 4900 to 5500 rpm)

Best track time was 12.95 at 108.14 mph

 

Go in-tank. I have the Racetronix kit, which has the GSS340M pump and hot wire kit. Easy install, just time consuming. Except the bolts on the bar that connects to the panhard bar. Those WILL BE rusted on TIGHT.

http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX..._Pump_Kit.html

 

buckeye, what is involved in installing the racetronix furl pump kit and hot wire, and what exactly does it do? Im having a leakdown problem with my holley walbro pump going to zero #'s right after the car is shut off! So im looking for a solution and maybe a different setup. Thanks

 

IN a vette, it all just plug and play. They have every item that you need included.

The hot wire is a harness they provide that eliminates the stock FP wiring and ties it directly to the alternator, so the power supplied to the pump is 13+ volts, rather than 12 or maybe less through the stock wiring. This ensures you have a good constant power supply. Not to mention more pump, as many electric FP output is directly a function of the voltage supplied. More power = more output.

It took me about 2 hours to install mine. Very easy. Very professional looking. Not sure what is involved on your cars.

 

Engine
355
Cam
LT4 Hot Cam
Heads
Edelbrock 6085
Manual or Automatic
Stock T5, centerforce DF
Rockers - 1.5 or 1.6 or ??
Crane 1.6 Gold Race
Injectors
#24 from 95 LT1
Gears
stock 3.45 BW

 

Exactly what ski said. Plug and play. Toughest part is getting some rusted bolts out when trying to get to the fuel tank. Other than that, it's easy, but time consuming b/c you have to lower the rear axle, take off the exhaust, panhard bar, etc.

 

Next leg of the SuperRam thread - PORTING

Have you guys had any work done to your runners?

Mine have been mildly ported and matched.
The pizza box to the runners look like they have been gasket matched.
The runners have been fully ported and smoothed out nicely.
The Edelbrock intake has been ported to match the runners.

I wish I would have taken some GOOD close-ups of the intake, runners and plenum so you could see the work that was done.

I don't have BEFORE or AFTER #s to share with you.

Anybody run into Accel's poor casting quality that has been rumored to happen?

 

I'll let others speak for themselves, but I did quite a bit of work to my superram. I talked to a couple of good head shops and they said the most restrictive part of the intake is the plenum to runner ports. The head guys said that the air has to make a very sharp turn in these openings and that smoothing and enlarging the port edge would help. I think most guys enlarge the runners and base as well. I think it's a good idea to try and open up the runners to 2" diameter and taper them down to about 1&3/4" where they meet the base. That's about as large as the base can be ported to. Tapering the runners gradually will help out with velocity. I think doing this lets the SR flow about 30cfm more. Maybe others can give us before/after #'s.

 

I have before and after pic and yes my SR was rough.

 

Mine was pretty rough too. Although, I didn't touch anything. I've been thinking of taking the SR off and getting it ported.

 

Thats what I did...I opened the runners and the base to 1 3/4." And the plenum to runners too roughly 2." The runners are kinda oval I hogged them out all the way thru and polished with 180 grit.

The base I raised the roof and lowered the floor some. I didnt change the shape just increased the cross section. I opened them to 1 3/4" as well. I bolted the runners on loosely with gaskets and looked thru with a light to make sure the match was good. Had to do this more then once to get it right. Then polished the insides with 180 grit

If I ever finish polishing the outside I might get to see if the work was worth it or not.

 

2;

 

3

 

Here is a pic of what the inside of the runners looked like.

 

Here is what they looked like after I worked them over.