Anyone know the proper torque specs for the TPI, as in manifold bolts, runners, fuel rail/ what ever else needs to be torqued down? (my haynes manual is all ripped up and is crap anyway)Also I had to use a lot of extensions ripping it off, will putting it back on with extensions throw off the torque reading? If it does how did you guys get passed this, as there are a few bolts that seem to be impossible to get to w/o the extension. Thanks!!:hail: :hail:

 

anyone know any of the specs?

 

I don't. I'd imagine few people actually go through the trouble of using a torque wrench for something so simple. I'm sure a chilton's/hayne's/factory service manual would have 'em if you really want 'em.

My trick is i use a 1/4" drive ratchet for all the TPI bolts. Easier to maneuver, and unless you're some kind of wack job intent on exertion, you're not going to overtighten them that way.

 

Even for the manifold? I thought that at least should be torqued down to the right specs. So noting actually NEEDS to be torqued, will work as long as I use equal pressure on all sides?

I dont have a 1/4 socket for the torx bits, just 3/8, so would it be ok if I just hold it close to the head of the ratchet to mock a shorter handle?

Thanks to everyone that has helped me on this project! Priceless info...

 

Unless i just did heads and have the torque wrench laying there, no i don't even torque that down. Once you've done a few things to cars you have a good feel for the right torque for different things. I'd do an intake manifold in 3 passes, with 1.5 grunts as the final spec.

And yeah, choking up on a ratchet will get you by. The TPI parts don't need to be very tight at all. not even a grun on a short ratchet, so 0.5-0.75 grunts on a regular ratchet, choked up.