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Anyone spray a 150 shot?

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Old 01-25-2003 | 11:42 PM
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86irocL98's Avatar
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From: Brick, NJ
Car: 91 TA vert
Engine: 355
Transmission: T5
Anyone spray a 150 shot?

I know someone in here has, what did you set your timing to and how much fuel pressure were you running? also anything else you could add in, i want to run a 150 on stock shortblock, not button happy so only when i need to...until i put my other engine in...
Old 01-25-2003 | 11:55 PM
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From: Texas
Car: 1992 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305CID (LB9)
Transmission: World Class T5
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt, 4.10 gears
A 150 shot is a bit much. I know a Chevy SB can handle it in the short duration. I wouldn't run that much if I were you however. There are alot of other tricks to get more power out of your existing engine without running so much juice. My advice is to do the rest of that stuff first and then run a 50-75 shot. That will be all you need. NOS is hard on an engine. A friend of mine used to run a 150 shot on a LS-1 with only a 5,000 miles on it. He blew the thing apart in less than 3000 miles after that.

HP is not worth getting stranded with a blown engine. Just my advice. BTW the tech articles on here show marked improvement in the L98 when you set your fuel pressure at 46 or 50PSI on it's own.
Old 01-26-2003 | 10:16 AM
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here is another example of someone giving nitrous a bad name

I was running a 150 shot on my old Carb'd mustang 5.0 for years with over 50 bottles through it before I sold it

Nitrous is not BAD for your motor if you give it the fuel it needs and back out the timing
2degrees timing for every 50 is the rule
if you are really scared about nitrous don't spray under 3k

I say go for the 150 shot just give enough fuel, pull timing out, and don't spray below 3k and you should be fine
Old 01-26-2003 | 12:18 PM
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Chevy Hi Performance did a article on "How much nitrous can a SBC take?"

Results....325HP of nitrous. It made 599hp. They ran it on 425 but hit it too low and toasted the motor.

Of course, this was wirhout a rebuild of the short block. They did put new gaskets, springs, cam, etc etc. That was a optimized setup with proper timing, fuel added, and spark energy.

You can probably hit 100 alot if you are smart about it. Dont hit it under 3k or hit your rev limiter with it on, make sure you have plenty of fuel going in, and your ignition can handle it. If not, your car will run like crap. (Chevy Hi performance ran into that problem when they upped the nitrous from 100 to 150.)
Old 01-26-2003 | 04:05 PM
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
Remember that the small block in CHP was built for nitrous.

I do run a 67 n20 jet in mine. That is the about the 150 jet size. I have a stock bottom. Like said before, run a hobbs switch, WOT switch, maybe a window switch and run the fuel a bit rich for a safety margin. Just in case bottle pressure goes to 1100 or something on a hot day. ..
Old 01-26-2003 | 04:22 PM
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I would reccomend a fuel psi switch , wot micro swith , window switch . I used nitrous on my previuos engine . Lost fuel psi , and lost 3 pistons . Made one hell hell of a sound . Looked like a torch blew through the pistons . Wish had the fuel psi switch. Oh well SH** happens then you build another engine
Old 01-26-2003 | 04:34 PM
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86irocL98's Avatar
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From: Brick, NJ
Car: 91 TA vert
Engine: 355
Transmission: T5
how about getting a jacobs nitrous mastermind?
Old 01-26-2003 | 04:36 PM
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Gofaster...I know.

What does the "Window Switch" do?
Old 01-26-2003 | 05:10 PM
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From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
it was not built for nitrous. the motor was a stock virgin motor. never been bored. had the cast factory pistons in it.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../148_0303_n20/
Old 01-26-2003 | 05:16 PM
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From: miami, florida
It had a Nitrous cam grind, new gaskets, I think springs and thats it. The only thing done to the bottom end was new gaskets. It was a Virgin bore, 75 Chevelle 350, 2 bolt, smog motor. (No, I did not look at the link, this was from memory.)
Old 01-26-2003 | 05:18 PM
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
Maybe I am thinking of the wrong article.

The "window"switch allows any device to be turned on and off according to rpm. For example, since hitting the juice at 1600 rpm will pound the crap out of the main bearings, set the window switch to activate the juice at 2500 rpm. And since hitting the rev limiter on juice is also not recomended, have the nitrous shut off at 6000 with the rev limiter coming in at 6100. Just a safety precaution. I guess I could see a window switch helping launch a bit too.
Old 01-26-2003 | 05:23 PM
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From: miami, florida
I heard of a import mag doing a Nitrous Install and test on a Dodge Neon. Well, the setup went well and everything worked......testing was another story. They put it on the dyno and hit the nitrous...well, someone forgot about the rev limiter. The rev limiter on that car (from what I am told) turns off the fuel. There was nothing left of that motor.

edit- why is "r i c e r" and "r i c e" censored?

Last edited by vwdave; 01-26-2003 at 05:25 PM.
Old 01-26-2003 | 05:33 PM
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From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
I remember an article on a 398 cube small block with all forged stuff breaking at a 175 shot. I thought it was in Super Chevy. My mag pile is too big to look through right now
Old 01-29-2003 | 11:27 PM
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ontogenesis's Avatar
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
Transmission: 700R4
i wouldn't go too much over 100 if your not just racing it, if your racing it only, give'er 200 and have fun with it...important part is to remember to use a throttle switch or window switch and MAKE SURE you get plenty of gas (mech fuel pump won't cut it).

if i hear NOS one more time.....grrr it's N2O...and if you wanna buy some, go Nitrous Express
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