Strange thing just happened
#1
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Strange thing just happened
Ok. I just went out to start my car so I could move it and it would not start. The battery is new and showed 13volts. I could hear the fuel pump so everythings good there. I turn the key and get nothing. I pop the hood and look things over but find nothing. I start checking connectors over by the master cylinder and then get back in the car and it starts up just fine. Was this just a lose connection at the (esc) or is this a early warning sign of things to come. Can anyone help
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That was my second guess. I just bought a new key less than 30k ago so what am i doing wrong with these keys. Can I just clean the chip and could this be starting to happen cause the car has been sitting for 6 months? Thanks
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Next time try wiggling the key as you attempt to crank. Then if it doesn't work, try tapping the starter with soething heavy. Try to aim for the solenoid without electrocuting yourself. Listen for the click from the solenoid when you attempt the crank...will give you a hint if it's a VATS or starter problem.
#6
Do you get interior power when you turn the key to the on position? (not just interior lights that turn on when the doors are open, but things like dash lights, radio, gauges, etc.) If you do, then it could be a bad starter solenoid as well. I had to replace my starter just last month for that reason. It was intermittent, and a couple taps on the starter with a wrench took care of the problem, but I didn't feel like getting under my car every few days just to get it started.
#7
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Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
If it's VATs, just like with any problem, you fix it by replacing the defective part which could be the ignition switch or VATS module itself.
I don't remember exactly what sequence of VATS lights means what, but i know the 'security' light will either stay lit or flash if it is detecting the wrong resistance from the key, and it may do something else, or even nothing if the VATS module itself is bad.
Or it could even be something as simple as a starter/solenoid on the way out. Or even the starter enable relay that VATS uses...
Intermittent electrical problems are a real bear to troubleshoot. You can eliminate VATS by verifying if the starter gets a crank signal when you turn the key. If not, check the enable relay. If VATS isn't enabling that relay, then you know the problem is in VATS. If you are getting a crank signal at the starter then you know the problem is a dead starter, etc
And until you check those things while the prolem is happening you are nowhere. If you have the time i'd recommend putting some test jumper wires on relevant circuits so that as soon as you get the no-crank problem you can hook up a voltmeter and go to town...
I don't remember exactly what sequence of VATS lights means what, but i know the 'security' light will either stay lit or flash if it is detecting the wrong resistance from the key, and it may do something else, or even nothing if the VATS module itself is bad.
Or it could even be something as simple as a starter/solenoid on the way out. Or even the starter enable relay that VATS uses...
Intermittent electrical problems are a real bear to troubleshoot. You can eliminate VATS by verifying if the starter gets a crank signal when you turn the key. If not, check the enable relay. If VATS isn't enabling that relay, then you know the problem is in VATS. If you are getting a crank signal at the starter then you know the problem is a dead starter, etc
And until you check those things while the prolem is happening you are nowhere. If you have the time i'd recommend putting some test jumper wires on relevant circuits so that as soon as you get the no-crank problem you can hook up a voltmeter and go to town...
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#9
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After the car does not start, with the key in the start position the only lights that remain on after trying to start the car are, service engine soon and security. Is this an indication of vats, or something else? I hear noise from the fuel pump when i go to start my car. It just wont start.
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Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LB9 TPI with L98 cam (Manual car)
Transmission: T5 5Speed/ 9bolt Borg-Warner 3.45 gears with posi
Originally posted by redrs89
i had the same problem and it turned out to be the neutral safety switch.I had to go to work so i bypassed it until i could get a new one
i had the same problem and it turned out to be the neutral safety switch.I had to go to work so i bypassed it until i could get a new one
Definately look into the neutral saftey switch , Ive had many cars with starting problems that turned out to be those switches.
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i beleive there was 2 thick wires from the harness conected to the neutral safety switch(yellow and green I think,its been a while)but anyhow jump the 2 of them,just be sure to put it in neutral or park cause the car will go foward if left in gear,ask the wife
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