Well I finally got the timing problem fixed on the car and it was running great again. I've been basically babying the car since. Well last Sun I finally gave her some gas and did a couple burnouts in her . Then the next morning I wake up and back her out of the driveway no problem. But as soon as I put it in drive and tried to hit the gas, the car stumled, almost died then took off. So I pulled a turn around back into the driveway and she stalled. Anything belwo 2000rpms the car basically stutters and stumbles. The accel cap and rotor and splugs are pretty much new. I didnt replace the plug wires cuz I didnt have the money for them. I checked the fuel pressure and I ave it set at 47 which it reads. I checked the timing and it was ok too. No vacuum leaks either. A couple of the plug wires looked burnt and on one the insulation was burnt through. I touched my hand back by the dist and got a pretty good shock. Do you guys jus suspect bad plug wires or what. #1 injector ticks pretty loud too. i unplugged it and the car seemed to run about the same. Any input is aprecciated guys.

 

Sounds like the plug wires need replacing, Happened to mine (brand new Accel 8.8 wires to ) replaced the burnt/melted one, routed it so it wouldn't burn up again, ran great

 

sounds like the pluge wires.... do yourself a favor and dont buy accel garbage anymore myself and anyone of my friends who have used their crap have only had bad experiences. get MSD stuff.

 

Well i replaced the plug wires and now the problem is worse. Now when i give the car any throttle at all it stalls and dies. I even made sure that all the wires snapped into place. I am completely stumped here. I know I routed them right because I replaced them 1 at a time. WTF is the problem here guys?? I need your help!!!!

 

anyone?

 

one of your injectors is dead....ALL of the injectors should have around 11 volts to them....also check the soleniod on the smog pump...
when i was at 120 mph with it on the floor my car died....
i had my tps tested and it was fried so i replaced it....still wouldnt start...so i changed my fuel filter, fuel pump, fpr tested my control module changed the computer, hell i put a diode to bypass the security system because there was no injector pulse...
the problem was a single fried injector and it fried the computer so even after i put a new computer in it it still wouldnt run....
the bad injector had ONLY 1.1 volts and the resistance was sky hi...the solenoid on the smog pump was also fried so i just left that disconnected....i still have to replace the 02 sensor....
CHECK YOUR INJECTORS....go to autozone (if your by one) get an ohmmeter or i think the rent an injector tester and test them all...i almost positive the resistance should be between 16 and 18 ohms and the volts should be around 11
hope this helps and good luck it took me 6 weeks to fix my problem

 

i also agree about the accel garbage...for race cars ok but for "our" cars there junk go with msd
i learned the hard way on this to i did a tune up 6 months ago (cap rotor plugs wires) and although my car runs good at a sustained 3,000 i can hear pops from the exhaust
time for the good **** MSD

 

well i tested the dist module the tps and the fuel injectors today. All checked out fine. Now the car wont even start!!! I cant test the fp right now becuz the nipple on my afpr broke off and I had to glue it back on. I am totally stumped here guys. Any more ideas???

 

Also, when I took the dist cap off I noticed the whole shaft moved up and down when I was taking the rotor off. Is this normal or is this the root of my problem???

 

then your hold down may not be securing the distributor good. if it was loose enough, the distributor couldve got turned, and messed your timing up. causing it to run bad and not start if it is enough.

 

MSD ignition stuff is no better than any other hiperf company's. Just because you may have had a bad experiance with an accel product it does not mean they're all junk. I have been using accel ignition products longer than a lot of you have been driving and have had no troubles from them.

 

Don't get all caught up in this Accel is garbage MSD is better BullSh*t. I use an all MSD setup with a Accel Supercoil. None of that is going to fix your problem now.

I think that you will find that your pickup coil is going south on you.

Did you recently replace the under cap HEI ignition module? If so, you might've crossed the green and white wires (assuming this is a stock distributor we're talking about).

What you need to do is get yourself a cheap DVOM meter. I got mine for 12 bucks. Disconnect the 2 (green and white) wires that plug into the HEI ignition module and put your leads on them. You should see 500-1,500 Ohms and infinite reading to ground.

If you are nowhere near those specs when you Ohm the pickup coil leads then you know what to replace.

Honestly, I had the same crap happen to me not long ago and I crossed the pickup leads going into my ignition module (I am using the MSD billet distributor) and got a good jolt at the cap.

Good Luck,

Brian P
89 IROC-Z 355

 

when u key up does the security light stay on?....check the injector pulse....if your not gettting pulse check the vats and the ecm...and if the fpr was bad it would girgle and choke cuz it would still get some fuel....


try this spray some fuel into the tb and have a buddy (or yourself) start it...and it should start then die which tells you its a fuel issue....if it doesnt then you dont have spark....if neither is the case check the pickup coil....as far as the distributor moving up and down a little thats normal...the distributor gear is about an inch tall so the 1/8inch play will not be an issue in the timing jumping

 

check your firing order..it's real easy to mix it up.......