palric

iTrader: (1)

Last summer I decided to change my plugs. Bought 8 AC Delcos opened the hood and realized my '91 was not the same as my last f-body, an '88 Formula.

The '88 did not have A/C so the only really tough plug to get at on it was number 7 (driver side rear). Well the '91 being different I managed to replace #1, 3, 5 and 2 bougies with minimal loss of skin.

I still have 4 plugs sitting on my shelf and a bit of a rough idle. Last night as I was detailing the engine compartment I could hear #7, 4, 6 and 8 plugs calling me to change them out too.

Is there some easier way to do the passenger bank on an A/C car ? Do I have to dissassemble the A/C unit at the firewall to get at that side ? Otherwise I cannot see how you can fit your hand in the tight spots to even get at the plug ? Maybe better to take it to GM and laugh as the mechanic curses my car ?

Comments ? Experiences ?

thx,
RP.

IROCKER

From the bottom my friend...it not easy this way either, but easier than removing your AC and attempting to do it from the top. Jack her up and crawl under and you should be able to see them.

palric

iTrader: (1)

Ok IROCKER I thought I was going to be seeing the underside before I was done.
I understand it gets worse with the 4th gen cars. Ever opened the hood on a 1st or 2nd gen f-body ? I can remember sitting on the inner-fender of a '69 Z28 and installing headers... oh my aching back.... where is that jack anyway ?

RP.

IROCKER

Yeah, lots of room...you could practically sleep under there!

johnyIROC

I agree... it is MUCH easier to take the back plugs out from underneath the car. I just changed plugs last week. It also helps if you have one of those "bent ratchets".

nblanchard

Yup, definately from underneath!!! The easiest plug change would have to be my current 1988 Grand AM Quad4, next would be my 1987 Grand AM 2.5L 4-tech, then my 1979 Parisienne. The worst would have to be my 1987 Grand AM 3.0L V6, and the GTA, but I didn't do the GTA (chickened out)

BILZ88350

SUGGESTION; I TOOK A STD SPARK PLUG SOCKET AND DRILLED THRU THE HES PART WITH A 7/16 DRILL. I THEN CUT THE CENTER
SECTION OF THE SOCKET AND REMOVED 1" OF LENGTH. (LATHE WORK). WELDED BOTH SECTIONS TOGETHER AND RECUT EXCESS WELD ON LATHE. WHAT THIS DOES IS TO ALLOW PLUG TO STICK WAY PAST THE SOCKET AND YOU USE A 3/4 WRENCH TO REMOVE THE PLUG. I HAVE HOOKER HEADERS AND THIS EAS THE ONLY WAY TO REMOVE PLUGS FROM TOP SIDE WITHOUT SKINNED KNUCKLES. USING THIS ALTERED SOCKET MADE PLUG REMOVAL EASY.
BILZ88350
hey nathan; this line is just for you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IROCKER

Nathan: I don't entirely blame you. The last two spark plugs changes I did on my own, but it's a huge pain. The next one I'm seriously considering getting someone else to do them...or at least the two ones on the driver's side by the fire wall.

palric

iTrader: (1)

Hello BILZ88350, I still have a 'custom' socket left over from my last f-body-with-headers. I am hanging on to it bvecause I intend to put headers on this f-body as well. I think headers will actually improve spark plug access on this car, over the stock manifolds atleast.

I tried my regular and custom socket, couldn't even stick it on and put a wrench to it as there is only about 1/2 inch clearance (from above) for the entire length over #6 and 8. The A/C (that I wouldn't be without) completely blocks access otherwise.

I think this can only be done from underneath. I think I'll take it to GM and let somebody else have the fun.

thx,
RP.