Sinister Z

Straight-Line II Performance Automotive is officially open, 4100 Brock Road. (905) 649-1118 We have some nice Engine Packages for 355, 383 & LSX...ect!

We just got our New Glass bead machine, Counter & a new drive on ramp last week, So it looks like we will have the Grand Opening in April sometime...I'll keep you guy's posted on the exact date!

As for my car I added a new 7 quart Moroso Pan, Harmonic Balancer & some new rear suspension components...putting a new Header on my Jeep lol!















Now to get on to work, sorry about the quality in the pics but they were taken from my iPhone

86White_T/A305

Awesome,I already spoke to Andy about having my block done.Come march break Ill be yanking the motor out and its off to see you guys.I remember meeting you quite sometime ago when I used to work over at Chase Audio Video.Andy knows us well and Id love to come see the new layout and discuss my options.

Congrats on the new shop..cant wait to see the cars you guys spit out

Dscott

wherebouts is 4100 Brock Rd.....like Brock Rd & what?

you have a drive on lift....can you install weld on sub frame connectors?

Sinister Z

We are right at Coppin's Corners on the northwest side and yes we do weld sub-frame connectors in!

Dscott

Coppins Corners OK....thats close to Uxbridge.....I was gonna say 4100 sure doesnt sound like Brock and the 401 haha!
I'll have to stop in sometime...Doug

Doug Phillips

Hey Doug, its Doug. LOL

I have springs/shocks coming off my race car next month. Was it you that was looking for something? PM me.

KidRock'n

Hey I'm looking for a place to tune my car. I've got an '89 RS with a brand new GM Crate ZZ4 350 and a T5 with T56 internals. Running really rich and running base timing as well. Need to get 'er straightened out.

Are you guys the place to take 'er?

Sinister Z

If you need to do it on a dyno then my suggestion would be to find one in your area or see Redline Performance...otherwise you can come and see us at the shop and we will do our best for you!

86White_T/A305

Finally got my motor dropped off at the shop.I gotta say I love the new place,Very clean shop.Andy is the man Looking forward to getting the motor back and firing it up for the first time.Great service and will be seeing more of this shop to come lol.

86White_T/A305

Well heres an update my motor being dropped off a month ago at this shop.Now as much as I like the guys who work there, I kinda got a sour taste about the length of time its still taking to get my motor built.The original quote of 2-3 weeks I thought was more than fair to ensure a quality build,I do understand that it takes time to do things right.Sometimes parts take long and some things are out of your control.But Im now on week 5 of this build without a motor even close to being fired up,week 5 of my car being at a shop that I now have to pay storage fees at another shop for leaving it there for so long taking up space/hoist, 5 weeks without a car period and now it might not even be ready this weekend which will be another week before I can pick it up.

Im not the type of customer to make a big scene or yell over the phone etc if Im unhappy.Ill sit back and see what happens when its come down to paying the bill.Im hoping that maybe a compromise can be made about labor or something can be made to reassure me that Im still at the right shop for my needs.That being said word of mouth does travel fast and can make or break a business and Ill be posting my outcome good or bad.I hope Im getting what Im paying for.

86White_T/A305

Update part 2: Got a call yesterday that the motor is finished and ready to be picked up for tomorrow.I hope it wasnt just thrown together in order to save face but when I go to pick it up Id like to come to a a better solution about my bill due to the length of time.Still got faith that things can be made right and Ill walkout with a smile.

Sinister Z

Hey sorry but I haven't been up at the shop in quite a while, I am sure Andy will do his best to satisfy you!

86White_T/A305

Pm was sent Sinister,Thanks for replying.

Here is the motor as far as I can get it assembled before dropping it in.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Looks pretty but think you need a new waterpump

Hope it all works out for ya!

86White_T/A305

Lol yes thats on the list of things to do once I recover a little more from the initial build. I still need to make new fuel lines upto the rails and hope I dont get any of those fuel leaks that others had with the holley regulators

1fun zed

It looks very pretty. Hope it all worked out for you. Nic and Andy are great guys and pride themselves on great service.

As for the waterpump, go get some aluminum coloured engine enamel or even brake caliper enamel and paint that thing before you put it in. Even if you are not going to change it right now, you can certainly make it look better than the rust covered look.

Just my .02

86White_T/A305

I have one can of paint left from doing the block and when i get the new pump in 2 weeks ill paint that one instead. For now Im in a crunch to get this pig running and out to my house and worry about cosmetics from there.

86White_T/A305

Well here it is folks.Got the car running on stock tune but does sound like the bottom end isnt happy and making slight contact.Hard to tell with open headers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eI4f69rDz8

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Think you will need to finish your exhaust to really tell, plus some of the lifters might need to pump up.

What was done to the engine if you don't mind me asking?

86White_T/A305

Thats what Im going to do today after is put the y pipe back on.I also think that it needs to run longer and let the oil truly circulate and warm it up.Car seems to really like between 8-11 degrees timing.

I did call Andy from straighline and told him that its kinda loud knocking and he has a few ideas of either the stock oil pan is still touching but he didnt feel it when he turned the motor over by hand.He thinks with it running there might be enough vibration now to still hit.Or to recheck the torque converter boltls.he is willing to come over and listening to it tomorrow so thats great news.

If its not something simple other than just needs to be broken in and run for a few mins ..then its going to really suck to pull all back out and take the motor up to uxbridge again.

Red seal Tech

the bottom end noise could be a few things if deemed inside the motor it could be a few things only if a stroker ie.383 and up your profile says 383!!??? So cam side of rods must be clearanced properly ( is it a egale kit???) they wont hit on stand but will when running if not clearanced enough (2) block must be clearanced near oil filter area or crank hits and yes the pan if stock must be clearanced in the same area.

86White_T/A305

Ok so heres the deal.

1986 350sbc 4 bolt main non roller truck block
Eagle 1300lb kit I believe is what he used
Install compcams 280xfi
Arp bolt kit
Compcam 1.6 rockers and hyd lifters installed
Moly pushrods
Machine the block-clearance,bore/hone/deck the block etc
Install the Afr heads and gaskets
Installed Hsr intake base and gasket
Installed timing new cover + gasket
Installed new Fbody oil pan and gasket
Prime the motor with break in oil
mini starter

The only things I did after I got the motor back was put on the headers/water pump/power steering pump and march underdrive pullies..all I had before on this motor when it was stock.

Andy has listened to it running inperson and told me that when he turned it by hand everything felt good.We checked the water pump and power steering pump and they arent causing false knock that he thought would have been my issue.The oil pan itself does not feel to be getting knock with the car running and feeling it from underneathe the car.

Now Im more convinced that it may be cam to rod clearance,The motor is also developing a slow oil leak near the flywheel/possibly rear main seal in my opinion.The y pipe is now on the car and you can evidentally hear the knock and it increases with rpm..adding or retarding timing doesnt make it stop either..nor does disconnecting the knock sensor ..it has to be internal.

Heres the real question.Is this now my fault for running the motor long enough to try to find where its knocking that I have to pay more to have this all fixed or is this a warranty issue.All the parts are brand new and I paid good labor just so that I wouldnt have a bad block like the last motor I bought.Ill have to buy a new cam,rods,bearings etc just to make it what its supposed to be?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgnh5wub9EQ

Red seal Tech

OK Andy has been around for a long time and there is a reason for it. Im sure he will look after you. If it is a clearance problem then he should fix it at his expense it doesn't matter that you ran the motor if it was wrong from the start it was wrong and there should be no question. If you get no satisfaction I am willing to help. which would mean you take out the motor bring it too me but I will take it apart infront of you so you see what is going on. But I will only do this when you have exhausted every avenue with Andy. I'm sure you will get it rectafied!!!!!!!!!! with andy.

Daz

iTrader: (1)

Is this Reggie?

Anyway, apart from loose converter bolts it could be loose block/tranny bolts also. Or the converter cover hitting something.

IMO Vibration shouldnt make it hit anything if all clearances were checked though

86White_T/A305

Yup its me Daz,I have already checked the converter bolts and they are on damn good lol...same for the tranny bolts.The knocking is definetly coming from the front and seems to be the cam button hitting the front cover.I put my hand on it and feel the cover tapping.

other than that we dont hear any knock on anything else with a stethascope so far but the car stopped running due to my fuel pump bein weak now and intermittent so im in the process of changing it now.good thing i have an access door in the trunk.

86White_T/A305

here is how it runs now,fixed my fuel pump,rewired the knock sensor since the wire burned,upgraded the ecm grounds,and wired my secondary fan to my a/c switch and spent quite sometime tuning.got the car timed and now its seems alot happier.not detecting any internal knock..just the front cover tapping and it has started leaking..aswell as the rear main from what i can see so far.both leaks are very slow though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRufmynoknQ