86White_T/A305

Hi guys.Im wanting to build a motor over the next few months and Im wondering if I should get a new block or have my old 355 stroked.Here is my goal.My car would be daily driven in summer..light drag time.Ive always wanted to be over the 400hp/tq mark and have street manners.Im keeping it auto.The block I have is the same 355 that had issues being consistent and then had an oil fire.Its a older sbc 2bolt main, 1pc main seal.I still have the l98 vette heads on it,march pulleys,hooker 2055 headers.Id like to ditch the stock tpi intake and go with the hsr I have sitting here.

My questions are what are a decent 383 kit to get for this block,should i stick with the vette heads and have them rebuilt to handle a cam for a 383 or just get afr comp 195s,also what cam would get me my goals..as id like to make power still at 6grand or more,should i also use 1.6rr,upgrade to a double roller timing chain or stick with hd chain,currently using a fluid dampener and was told its not ideal for a 383..if thats true what should i be looking for.Thanks for the advice.

Please if any of you have healthy streetable 383 combos that are to crazy budget wise id be very interested in seeing you setups..especially hsr and tuning bins.

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

I am running a lt1 383, but pm me and I would be more then happy to let you know my setup. I am pushing 480 at the wheel

86White_T/A305

Thats impressive.Anyone else got any input..also what is a good machine shop for having the block clearanced..I was thinking of taking it to Straightline racing since Andy has done decent work for me in the past.

89junkyardgta

Just wondering if you have checked out any of the GM crate motors or some of the long blocks? Not as DIY, but the 383 HT and its relatives come with a FORGED crank. ssean92 is putting down some killer numbers, but I'm not sure what his setup is worth. I wonder what a GM 383 short block with your existing top end (HSR + L98 vette heads) would make for power??

86White_T/A305

Yea I know Gm has some decent packages but the thing is I already have a block sitting here from my old 355.Dont know if I should use it and build off that or try to sell it and start all over.The L98 vette heads will need to bet ported and polished..new valves..springs etc and maybe 1.6rr if I re-use but I dont know if they will support my hp goals?

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

I don't think those L98 heads would get you what you want. Your block is worth maybe $200, so why not start fresh unless you have exactly what you need.
Spend money on good heads..that's where the power is. Might almost be the same price after you machine/port/replace valves/springs etc..

Talk to a good builder and go with a known heads/cam/intake combination. You'll end up going to full roller 1.6 rockers with a double roller (what else decent is there for a SB?) as well.
The HSR is a good intake..check out what they did with it with the off the shelf GM vortec? heads, there were some articles in GMHTP a year or so ago.

How much are you budgeting? I'd guestimate 5k EASY all said and done.

I run an LE2 Lloyd Elliott LT1 350 setup that is 375HP at the wheels on a mustang dyno, but doesn't throw down the torque you're looking for. I think it was 320 at the wheels with an email tune. It will easily go to 6500rpm, which is pushing it for my stock block. Also runs 114MPH in the 1/4!

86White_T/A305

Yes I am looking at spending around 5k all said and done.I love good torque and would like to break over 400hp.I was hoping that if the l98 vette heads were ported they would support a decent 383,also since I have a block that already needs a rebuild..Id just stroke it since its sitting here.I have tuning software and would dive into squeezing the most power out of the setup once its going.Not sure i want to be screaming all the way to 6500 but for the off chance that I do..I want to be safe that things wont fly apart lol.I was thinking a powerband from 2000-6200 with my 2800 stall would be nice.

86White_T/A305

Also what else if anything can I re-use since im sticking with my 730 ecm and using hsr,will my current 24# ford injectors keep up for a bigger motor.I just got them less than 2yrs ago and the barely been used lol..less than 2k even :P.

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

Hmm, not sure about the 24lb units. Check out one of the online injector calculators. The Ford ones are rated for flow at lower pressure than the GM ones. Check the LT1 board on camaroz28.com there's tons of info on them there. I got new Delphi (Lucas) Disc Injector 42lb/hr - 621031 from Racetronix for the LT1, the guy is in TO.
You'll likely also need a better fuel pump. I run the Walboro kit from racetronics http://www.racetronix.com/307vs340.html The kit is awesome and is very complete. Cheaper then replacing a stock pump.

It all adds up quickly. Just the pump/injectors/1.6 rockers will be $800...

86White_T/A305

Well I already have a high flow fuel pump installed so Im not worried about the fuel supply in that area.Some ppl say that the 24#s would be the minimum I could use if its tuned right.I can tune that myself with my software to atleast get it running and driving.

Here is a list of parts Im looking into getting:
Eagle cast steel 383 kit externally balanced
-3.750 cast steel crank for 2pc rear main seal block
-5.7 forged I beam rods bushed
-Speed Pro Hypereutectic flat top -12cc pistons 9.9:1compression 4.030 bore only
-Clevite 77 performance rod and main bearings
-Perfect circle face molly rings
-New flexplate and balancer

-AFR comp 195cc heads 65cc
-Hydra Rev kit
-Double roller timing chain

Cam choices are either:
-Compcams XFI280
-CompCams XFI268
--ZZ409

This will be using my HSR,730 ecm,march pulleys,24# ford injectors,hooker2055 headers,magnaflow lt1 catback,2800 stall

Any thoughts on the combo?

89junkyardgta

Check these articles out. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...est/index.html

I know it is totally anti-DIY to go and buy a crate motor, and its probably not as much fun, but if you can build the equivalent motor (hell, even the equivalent short block) for the price, let me know, because I'd like to talk to that shop. If you've got a good arrangement with a local shop, then by all means, go to it. But you already are having issues which may or may not be related to the block. Oh, and another thing. You should seriously consider putting some frame connectors in that car...I think you're going to bend it if you get this motor up to the numbers you are looking for.

89junkyardgta

Have you got some quotes for machine work on this yet??

86White_T/A305

I havent gotten quotes on the block work just yet since I want to have a much better idea of what a healthy combo will be for me.There is a big difference in trying to get 4-450hp/400+tq at the wheels compared to flywheel.I think Ill try to tame this build down for a more safe everyday driver with a good grunt even for the hsr topend.So 400/400or more at the fly should make me happier compared to my 355ci.

As for frame,I have no doubts I probably have twisted it already with the old setup lol.I plan on getting subframes and going deeper into making the suspension and frame a rock.Glad I got some added strength with the etb,wonderbar and i got a tubular torque arm ready to go in aswell.then dive into making the car stop will be the next step.

89junkyardgta

I only ask as I did a huge amount of inquiry and research into building up a TBI small block for a truck I am building, and by the time I had all of the work done, and reusing a bunch of parts I had, I couldn't TOUCH a crate motor, dollar per horsepower.

Also, though I'm not an engine builder, I would take another look at the size of those heads in your proposed build. Again, after a bunch of reading, it seems that the FI engines like a smaller intake port to better atomize the fuel. With a carb, the fuel has the whole manifold runner and head runner to atomize into the air. With FI, it only has the head to atomize the fuel, mind you the injector does help with that. Kevin91Z and Fast355 would probably be able to add a lot more to this. You should try posing the question to those guys, they are extremely knowledgeable. This is all just my 2 cents, so take it for what its worth.

86White_T/A305

Oh I am,thank you very much.Any feed back is taken and writing down as a reference.The reason I choose those heads is because I see many members using them and posting great numbers.I like looking at well proven combo's that you guys run on a daily basis so I know what im in for as far as longevity how things hold up.So far most guys are using the 195 or I think it was 180cc afr heads around 64cc with FI and making nice numbers that im targeting.Should be a fun build

89junkyardgta

Yup, I was thinking around 180cc mark for a nice street motor. Brodix makes a 180 head now too, but I think that afr's might be better. There are numbers for all that stuff around online.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

I was looking at the Patriot heads when I was at a shop in Ohio, they're a nice head for a good price. RHS heads are nice out of the box too. AFR's are awesome, but the price is still high. You could do a full roller setup with Patriots or RHS heads for what a set of AFR's will cost you.

Anybody should be able to build a 383 with at least 400hp today for cheap, if not then your in the wrong place.

I wouldn't waste any money on working over any GM stuff. You could buy a forged rotating assembly off ebay with decent parts. Take it to a shop, have them check and redo your current block, balance the assembly, and build the short block. Do the rest yourself.

85z28guy

Thats good advice! One more thing, depending on the exact specs your running, you may need a small base circle cam. I'm running 6" rods and a decent sized cam and that was the only thing I ran into.

online170

Look at the thread i started in Aftermarket Product Review for 500HP trickflow kit

FastLS1 posted a few times in there, he has tried the kit. He confirmed that it IS that good.....

However, if i was serious about going with that kit, i would instead go with their big block kit, even though it may be a little challenging to get into a thirdgen.

The only difference really i saw between the big block and the small block kit was power range;

SBC = 3500-7000 rpm
BBC = 1500-6500 rpm

That and the actual power.....

SB was 500hp/450ish torque
BB was 600++hp/573 torque

85z28guy

A bb into a third gen isn't an easy task, especially in a street car.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

400 at the tires or on motor?

I have a full forged 383 that makes 400whp/380 wtq. Over 500 on 150 shot, i estimated 520's-530's whp. mid 11's on motor, mid high 10's on spray. Very streetable

its loud but very driveable with decent tuning. AFR 195's with HSR and 11 to 1 compression

For your goals, i think regular AFR 195's are more than fine, you dont need the comp heads
Cast crank, some sort of I beam rod with ARP bolts, and whatever piston you want for 10-10.6 to 1 compression will be excellent for your goals.

Cam choice, i'd go custom grind but Wishmaster has a great grind, its a 226/232 on a 112 lsa i think, with mid 500's lift. By Cammotion. He is running about as fast as me and my cam is abit larger at 230/245 on a 109lsa, just over .600 lift. For more of a street driver i wouldnt go as high on the lift as i did. Its harder on the valve springs

XFI 280 is not bad. Aggressive lobes that should get AFR's upgraded 8019 springs. ZZ409 isnt a bad bet either. 226 duration is a good compromise for some power and being streetable. Advanced Inductions has some good grinds too that you can get off the shelf.
Ai 226 / 234 - .569/.570 - 110 LSA

That cam is something i'd try for sure.

86White_T/A305

Thanks for all the info guys.Im taking notes of everything.

As for the BB idea...if I didnt already have a 350 block sitting here Id lean more into that route but Im going to use what I have and see what I can squeeze out of it.Parts for buidling a 383 are gettin well within budget these days especially on ebay.

And Im not sure if Im quite ready to handle the insane raw power a BB will produce for a weekend cruiser and occasional strip car lol.Id rather have a very clean looking sbc that can still stomp most guys around here and not draw alot of attention exhaust wise driving around.Right now my exhuast at idle doesnt hint to much other than a car with step over stock exhaust until l
I hit wot.

86White_T/A305

Well Im not sure if my budget of around 5 grand will net me 400hp at the wheels.If I cam that would be sweeter lol.Realistically though if i see anything over 400hp and 400tc whether its at the flywheel or to the wheels Id be happy.It would be a 100hp jump for me on motor.After that Id like to try my hand on using nitrous once Im used to the car again.

Orr89 Id be very interested in knowing what induction your using and if efi..who tuned your car.Sounds very healthy and Id like to see what your settings are like for the chip.Its also a concern about making my goal is getting it dialed in.Im still very new to tinkering with burning my own chips

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

no problem i can send you my bin. Its a factory 89 computer and MAF system running a holley stealth ram on top.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

500crank hp is very doable on a $5000 budget.

I have about $3500 into my set up, but I did the work myself. Your costs will be machining and parts. Possibly assembly labour for the shortblock which shouldn't be more than a couple hours if they know what they're doing.

Small base circle is a definite good idea. I should have gone that way, it would have saved hours on clearancing and balancing. Heads and cam selection is most important. I went carb'd so if your staying EFI, you'll have to budget some into that. But if 400crankhp is your goal, porting some stock TPI stuff should allow you to reach 400hp.
----------
Oh, and BBC are boat anchors, they have no place in a street driven thirdgen.

online170

That was my issue with the BB as well. If i am considering it realistically, i will have to upgrade everything else to go the bb route. So the initial $3500 they advertise + another $3500 or so to upgrade the tranny, rear end, and 'frame' to handle the power.

Also, why all the big block hate? How are they boat anchors? They arent easy to swap in, but they arent that hard either. Direct bolt in, but you have to clearance the firewall overhang thing, and part of the kmember for exhaust. Then just make sure you pick the right pulleys, water pump, and fans for the cooling.,

ANYWAYS, who cares.

FastLS1 told me his setup in the other thread, and he tells you what sort of power he was getting to the wheels. It was pretty impressive and over 400.
There is also a suggestion in there for what rotating assembly to get for around $800 or so. I was going to ignore that assembly because most of my bottem end is already forged.

All in all, it would be a $3500-4000 build plus currency exchange and tax.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

I just like picking on the BBC guys. They're not that hard to swap in. I 've seen quite a few of them, and lowered one into a thirdgen myself without anything cut up, they even make super comp full lengths for BBC swaps now that drop in. I run true 3" duals and never cut up my crossmember either. If you really want to do a BBC then it's not as difficult as you may think. Unless your gonna plan on making 700-800hp with one, which would be expensive anyways, you could just bolt one up to transmission, locate the mounts, and check your clearances around the pulleys and fan assembly.

86White_T/A305

Thanks alot guys.

Well as stated a BBC would be great if I had one but Im not quite ready to step into that world yet.

I am staying efi using the hsr and my 730 ecm.I am also staying speed density which can be a lil of a pain tuning wise depending on cam and vacuum it produces.Not sure if a maf bin will benefit me but Id still take a peak

I can do alot of the work myself but Id prefer the machine work to be handled by someone who does this for a living.After that is just a matter of putting a normal sbc together and drop it back in the car and go.

I do have a question regarding the cam.Why do you guys suggest small base circle selection?What are the pros and cons of using a regular efi performance cam?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

small base circle is to clear the rod's in a stroker. most stroker rods are clearanced enough to run a normal size cam but some are not. Small base circle is nice to have. Plus you can generally get more lift out if a small circle cam without sacrificing rod clearance

86White_T/A305

Ahh I see,thought it would be something along those lines of clearancing the rods.

I also think that to stay within my budget that Ill most likely use a cast crank and not forged.How dangerous is that idea for the goals I have?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

not bad at all. if i wasnt trying for nitrous i wouldnt have gotten the forged crank. Cast is more than fine for 400-450whp, as long as rpms are below 6500 i'd say. I was told the rods and rod bolts are the most important thing to worry about and its true. The rod bolts really determine the power level the rods can hold, so get decent rods with great bolts. Crank is less likely to go than the rod

If you go 383, i'd look for a 6" rod setup. that way you use a 1.125" piston which is MUCH lighter than the pistons fo 5.7" rods. That means less stress on the rod bolts so you can turn higher rpm. With that you can make more power reliably. Granted a good head setup on a 383 will make 400whp by 6000-6200 rpm so you'll be fine with cast internals with good rod bolts

86White_T/A305

Ok so far Im looking at using Trick flow heads.Part# 3041006
Specs:
combustion chamber=64cc
intake runner=195cc
exhaust runner=75cc
intake valve=2.02
exhaust valve=1.60
max lift of 0.540

Compcams 1.6 roller rockers

Im trying to stay within the 10-10.16:1 compression range,have good vacumm at idle for brakes.And a power band from 2500-6000rpm.I think the compcam xfi268 might be the cam to go with..maybe he 280?

Or Im looking at the zz9x cam that specs 225/240 112lsa or a step down 30hp is the zz409

I plan on using a eagle 383 kit thats cast.The holley hsr intake,24lbs ford injectors,hooker headers and magnaflow lt1 exhaust,730 ecm.try to tune it for 900rpm idle running on 92octane pump gas.I think this will net me with a streetable car thats midly mannered...relatively the same on gas compared to my 355.I estimate 400hp at the flywheel atleast and over 400tq.And maybe a very low 13 second pass..12.5 with good suspension mods.

Am I close?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

that setup should make more like 450 flywheel or close to it with XFI280. I'd run the ZZ409 or similar if you could. its got the powerband you want and it wont be down 30hp. it will get you close to 360-370whp which is 425-450 ish. Its a streetable cam too. it will make a powerful 383

370whp can get you in the 11's

85z28guy

I'm running those trickflows as well just there 64cc and have a lot of work done to them. Use the eagle kit, but pay the little bit extra and go with forged pistons instead of hyper.

Cruz'N Bruz'R

Trick flow's been lagging in the cylinder head department for a while now. After they're twisted wedge, they haven't been able to keep up with some other manufacturers.

If your willing to spend $1400-1500 on cylinder heads(which it seems) you can get a set of AFR 195 Eliminators, or Dart Pro 1 for around the same price as the TF Super 23's. Either head will make more power than the TF's.

The XFI268 is probably the best match for a street driven torqy stroker. It'll make gobs of torque, and pull well up top for a 383.

86White_T/A305

I think that 370whp will be right where I want to be and the torque it will put down...assuming I can hook lol will give me a great seat in the pants kick.

As for the heads,yes Ill save up and spend a lil more so that I have good heads I can open up later for even more power when I need it.I thought afrs were alot more than that which is why I choose the tf's?

So now that Ibasically gathered the info to build a nice street/strip 383 Im looking for a good machine shop in the toronto/scarborough area if you guys recommend any places so I can get full quotes.Im icthing to get started now lol

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

ADperformance can get you the AFR's for 1450 shipped

cam-

How about an LS1 swap? Fast, reliable, not too pricey and super good on fuel. I can get over 25mpg with ease. Drive to the track and run 12's all day long. 16,000kms last year and all I did was change the oil twice. 14k the year before and same nothing but the odd oil change.

Oddly enough its trapping at higher MPH the longer I drive it haha and the engine had 72K miles on it when I started with it. I've trapped as high as 117mph so theres PLENTY more in it than my best of 12.1 thus far. The 3.73's are holding me back but they work great on the street so I dont care but it flies be sure of that.

Anyways not trying to ruffle any feathers here with this advice but I've been down the crate engine route before and built engines and whatnot bbc and sbc's and the cost was pretty high all said and done and my crate engine was less than stellar. It tired quickly and used a lot more oil than I like. Made in Mexico though so kind of hit and miss as I understand it the best thing to do with a crate engine is to look at it as buying the parts then disassemble and blueprint it your self and your good to go.

Anyways I was skeptical about this LS1 swap at first but man now that I have it? I sold off all my other engines and non LS projects. I had a mint mercury marine 454 magnum thats gone as well as a bunch of other stuff I dont think I'll ever build another sbc or bbc unless I was just building a track only car which I would do another BBC build for otherwise forget it.

Its so easy to make big power with LS engines and they hang together incredibly well I cant say enough good things about them. My limiter is set at 7000RPM and I hit it almost daily. Idles away on the hottest day in brutal Toronto traffic with the AC on using the stock rad and single fan and it doesnt even go above thermostat temps. Great on fuel and tame manners too.

Amazing engines. Anyways heres a link to read about how to swap them in a third gen if your curious at all. Just thought I'd throw it out for you if your up for some work its very worthwhile I dont know of anyone whos done it that doesn't rave about it. Good luck whatever route you go


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...want-swap.html

86White_T/A305

I have thought about doing a LSx swap but so far when I looked into finding a LS motor they were out of my budget range to do a whole new swap.This route with the 383 I want to have done by late spring fully tuned.Then Ill save up alot more for a complete ls swap and build the motor very slowly while still having some ***** with my 383 for a yr or 2.Once Im ready to swap to the newer LS motor I can drop the 383 into my 89 chev pickup and replace the stock 350tbi.That will be a nice full size truck with tq Ill need for future towing plans.If all that works out hopefully I can convert to manual t56 aswell.

cam-

I did a similar route actually. Stock, built engine, built trans 700R4, crate engine swap, t56 swap, then LS1/t56 swap. Wish I skipped all the middle stps now haha.

Seriously though in terms of swap cost it has come waaaaay down from even a couple years ago. Theres a 98/t56 LS1 Z28 for sale over at ls1tech for 4500 bucks. Its not in mint shape but its not totaled or smashed up either and would make a great swap car. Theres lots of deals coming along now that those cars are aging a little. I'm not scared of milage on these engines either theres more than a few 200K mile LS1 cars still blasting 11's

Only real drawback is its a ton of work to do a nice job of it or you have to lay out the coin to buy the nice swap parts. Still theres nothing wrong or slow about a nicely built 383 thats for sure.

RacerRick

I would just go and find a 400 sbc. Cheapest way to get what you want.

I am building another one right now that should be good for an easy 480+hp, and 500ft-lbs torque, and will have about $3500 into it. It will never see above 6500rpm and should be bulletproof. Makes max power at about 5800rpm.

Its a simple combo:

817 casting 400 block, 2 bolt mains, bored 30 over
Stock crank and rods, good bolts and main studs
Forged TRW pistons - 12.3cc dish, 10.2:1 compression with the below heads, and uses 5/64" moly rings
Iron Eagle 215cc heads, 64cc chambers (not platinums) - 2.05/1.60 valves
Comp Cams ***** Thumpr 12-602-4, grind 295THR7
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 rockers, single valve springs, pushrods, locks, retainers, timing set
Edelbrock Victor Jr intake
Tweaked 750 Holley carb - flows 920cfm
Hedman full length headers, ceramic coated, 1.625" tubes

Heads are as cast except for the chambers smoothed a litte on the edges to eliminate hot spots.

Other little things that help - moroso windage tray, and crank scraper, ATI Damper, good quench (about 0.045"), Melling Select 10555 oil pump, bored/honed with deck plates, align honed, 30 degree backcut on the valves, but other than that, no real tricks.

The cam is a Hydralic flat tappet with 299/319 advertised durations, 243/257 at 50, ad .500/.486 lift on a tight 107 lob seperation angle. Its a seriously rowdy cam, but the large cubes tame it a lot. It would seriously freak out the computer and only has 12" vacumn at a 900rpm idle. Enough for power brakes - barely. You could probably tune it using the speed density however.

This engine is going into a 55' Chevy with manual brakes and a carb so its not an issue. Dirt simple engine.

miraclemann777

I just put together a forged 383 one piece rear seal 4 bolt short block with tpis mini ram, trick flows, zz9x, flat tops. I got the short block from M and R engines in california off ebay for $2550 shipped to KY.

It may be a while before I get the HP and torque #'s as I am still learning how to tunerpro. But the short block seems to have been a good deal.

I am research the bejeezus out of TGO on tuning this setup. It's going well
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Where can a fella get a copy of that BIN?

86White_T/A305

Ok guys here is an update on what I thought would be a 5-6k budget 383 build.

I emailed a well known performance shop 'Redline Performance' for quotes on having my 355 stroked and here is the breakdown of the bill so far.I think its..a lil over priced but you be the judge and tell me if I should look elsewhere for parts and for machine work.

- 4340 eagle rotating kit balanced

- Afr 195 cnc ported heads

- Hyd roller cam

- Retro fit hyd roller lifters

- .080 wall moly push rods

- Felpro gasket kit

- 1.6 roller rockers

- Arp head bolts

- Arp main studs

- Port your intake to match heads

- Double roller timing set

- Billet timing cover

- Melling hv pump

- Balanced and built with a spec sheet on assembly

- Assembled and blueprinted



Total $9200.00 plus tax,recommending the 4340 kit for long life and it would also be nice to see a 4 bolt block but not a must.

Does this sound like a worthy deal for a 383 that the same setup was done in a 89 gta and put 375 rwhp and over 400rwhtq. Im really leaning on your opinions with this one guys.Im thinking thats a fair profit for a fairly routine motor build at a shop.Maybe I should bite the bullet..only get the machine work done to the block and learn to do the rest myself and save on the labor charge.

Manic Z

iTrader: (1)

Sounds kinda high.

With the parts listed, with labour, sounds more like a $6000-$7000 job.

86White_T/A305

Thats what I was guestimating aswell with labor.Do you know of other reputable shops I should get a quote from?For noq I think I will buy the parts on my own and find someone to do the machine work and get it balanced.

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

That's a TON of cash for something that won't stay in the car for moret han a few years. You could easily do the LS swap for that and get similar power with room to build in the future..

What do all those parts cost from Summit?

Manic Z

iTrader: (1)

If you're near hamilton, try Wildgoose Performance.

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Redline is kinda high with their prices. I've had stuff done there before and was surprised at the final cost. They know their stuff just going to effect your wallet more. Like Maniac said, Try Wildgoose Performance. Heard lots of good stuff from people about them.

I built my 383 last year with parts I put together myself. I had the heads ported and the intake to match but besides that, all assembly was done without a shops help. You save tons of cash dude. Usually you forget small items and have to make a few trips to a parts store but besides that, it's a fun process. I also make 370-375whp too so...