freestylzz

It's that time again guys. Rustproofing season is upon us. I had mine done yesterday at Krown. Cost me $99 plus the taxes. It looks like they did a thorough job.


P.S A little word of advice, don't leave your car parked on any surface you don't want soiled for a day, and, don't rip your car on an empty open road just after having it rustproofed unless you want to look like a smoking flaming fireball for miles LOL

online170

I dont drive my car in the winter, but it gets rusproofed once a year at the end of summer, sometimes twice (after spring, after summer).

It cost me $30. I have a compressor, i went to home depot bought a "engine degreaser" gun for $19.99. Its a spray gun basically, with a hose at the end to insert in some fluid.

Last year i used 0W20 oil, this year i will try transmission fluid, because a coulple of my bushings didnt like the motor oil. THe pressure has to be kinda high, but it works well.

I would have gone with all the waste oil i collect, but its REALLY smelly, so i opted to use a 1L bottle of new stuff. Works well. And to avoid the fire-ball syndrome, i just take my time. Step one is to wrap the exhaust in garbage bags. The bags make it easy to rip, and wrap around, tape is only needed in a couple places. After this, just spray carfully, ie: not on the disk brakes, NOT in the interior, etc etc....

Whatever you use, just rust-proof your car, it extends the life so much, and keeps the eeks, and squeeks out of it too.

my 0.02.

I would try Krown too if i could find the stuff and its not too expensive to buy.

pdturbo

I've always found Rustcheck to work well on my vehicles. I don't take out the Camaro in the winter unless both my kids are playing hockey in different places at the same time so I sometimes find it's still got some of the rustproofing dripping on the exhaust come spring.

I was thinking about trying those electronic rustproofing units Canadian Tire sells but I've heard a lot of varying opinions on weather or not they actually work. Does anyone here have any experience or accurate information (not just opinion )on these?

online170

I have always heard an opinion, but no one ever seems to know how it works. Im also curious. Candian tire is a rather big company, but they are also known to invent alot of stuff that seems retarded, and u dont actually need.

Didnt get an A in chemistry but, oxidation (speaking from an electronic point of view) is when the loss of electrons occurs. So maybe the thing positively charges your vehicle, attracting electrons and keeping rust from happeneing even in the presence of oxygen? I dunno, would help if i knew how the thing worked.

freestylzz

Apparently these "rust control" modules send a minute electrical signal through the chassis of your vehicle protecting it from the formation of rust (the companies which make these products claim some sort of electrical reaction such as Online stated). Now I don't think there is any concrete evidence or facts to support this. Sure, the company itself can come up with their own independant survey to support their claims, but I don't think there have been any longterm independant studies done.

I also believe these companies state that for any anti-rust warranty that goes along with these modules you are required to have regular rustproofing (spray) applied to the vehicle. So what's the point (go figure)?

These modules sell for approx. $200 each. I've got 2 brand new units at home I have yet to use but plan on installing. It's a pretty simple install 3 wires, 1 power, 1 ground, the other to the vehicle chassis. The module has a double sided sticker and can be applied to the inside of the vehicle fender.

online170

Let us know what you find freestylze. I know you wont go to the full extent of leaving the rust proofing off the car to test the module, but still you may get an idea.

online170

I found this; sounds like he knows what hes talking about. The whole article can be found here..... Its written by an automotive technician on some board/association, and he puts a spin on the subject.

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/070221.htm




"Another way of reducing rust is to fight it electrically. Remember how rust creates electrical power? What if we could reverse the power? That's the concept behind electronic rust prevention systems. This system uses capacitance by attaching plates to the body to create a negative charge on the vehicle's body. The negative charge counteracts the electrical charge of the rusting action, slowing rust formation.

Other systems use cathodic protection, which is the real name of the technique these companies are trying to sell. This method of using a sacrificial cathode has been used with success to protect against corrosion on many structures and systems including sea-going ships, buried pipelines, and even reinforced concrete. The system produces a reverse charge in the component or structure to slow or prevent the rust action from taking place on the body and use up the cathode material instead. There's a catch however.

To create an electrical current, there must be a complete electrical circuit. In boats, the water forms one part of the circuit. In buildings, the ground forms one part of the circuit. Cars however, are not immersed in water or buried in the ground. If there was a good return path through water or dirt, this concept might work, but it doesn't have one. Another problem is that to create a charge over the complete vehicle body, the electronic rust prevention systems would have to use enough electricity from the vehicle's battery that it would keep draining the battery so your vehicle wouldn't start.

"

L69norm

CT has bulk rustcheck. It like $30 a can and fits on a schultz gun. I like the tranny oil idea though.

The city uses rustcheck on the big snowplows and fire trucks. I wouln't use those electronic units until I see them on the big city vehicles.

freestylzz

Some interesting stuff guys. Still seems there is no conclusive evidence this electronic module works but hey, I'll give it a try. I suppose I will tell 3 or 4 years down the road though

Here's a compny that offers rust control to many dealerships;

http://www.dealerschoice.biz/appearance.php

I've also heard of using tranny fluid with motor oil as this creates a compound which sticks better to metal parts as compared to simply motor oil.

Another issue using the module over the winter is that I always remove my battery while storing the car over the winter time. So infact for this unit to be working it would have to be connected to some sort of external power source.....

online170

I picked up the tranny fluid trick from my auto shop teacher. Its the best lubricant for the buck, and its good for rubber. The only problem i had with the motor oil is it eats at rubber, which isnt good for ur bushings and stuff.

The only reason i vouch for Krown, is because it is heavier than water. So, if you have a lip thats bent up, like the edge of a sheet of metal, and u get Krown and water in there, the krown will be in contact with the metal rather than the water.

What is rust check? Is it that tremclad paint, or is it oily?

freestylzz

Rust Check is another company specializing in rustproofing. You can look them up in the local yellowpages.

They also offer their rustproofing sprays (I don't believe it is paint but some oil compound) and lubricants / penetrants at Canadian Tire.

L69norm

Rustcheck was originally founded in Owen Sound and used a spray that was designed to protect aircraft parts in salt water enviroments.

Several Rustcheck franchisees in Mississauga got into a dispute with Rustcheck and broke away to form a new national franchise chain called Krown.

Krown paid the Ontario Research Council to reverse engineer the Rustcheck formula and then subsequently improved on it. This why the Krown dealers are always comparing thier spray to Rustcheck.

Rustcheck was then sold to Dominion Seal who started selling retail product through Canadian Tire.

Essentially Krown spray is the same as Rustcheck. Both will creep up into seams, displace water, etc.

online170

Cool, i didnt know that! Thanks for the info.

jaygt

iTrader: (4)

i use chain saw chain lube. comes in 4 litre jugs. the winter wieght is thinner so it works better. i mix it with paint thinner than spray it on my car from a windex bottle. when the paint thinner evaporates the oil goes back to the original viscosity. it has additives to help it stick the the spinning blade so i thought it would stick to my car better. is this a bad idea??

online170

I just wanted to revive this thread.

I finished rust proofing my car again for the season, and i noticed 2 things.

1) If you think your car is 100% rust free, like i did, underneath, and you have never had it up on a hoist, jack it up, and take lots of FLASH pictures. They dont let a single rust spot hide..... anyways...

2) I used tranny fluid this time, and i DO NOT recommend it. Its an excellent lubricant, but as you can see from the pix below, most of it ended up on the floor. (thats why i line my garage floor with cardboard every winter .

You will also notice, that the car floor only looks shiny in certain spots and not others, the shiny is the fluid, and the dry is lack of fluid. The tranny fluid only really "stuck" to the rust spots.

Next summer ill try a can of Rust Check, and see how that works out.

But except for the fact that motor oil eats rubber, i would highly recommend the 0W20 oil. Its available at cdn tire. 1L and a bit is more than enough to do the car, the doors, bottom and inside, wheel wells, and front suspension. The reason i like it so much, is that it was very easy to spray through the gun i showed back in post 2, and it creates a fine layer of oily flim, that will STAY whereever you spray it. Over the winter, it will get cold as soon as you spray it on, and stay exactly where you sprayed it. The tranny fluid just dripped off and didnt "adhere".

And finally, because the tranny fluid "drips off", it was all over my exhaust by the time it got warm, and filled my garage with a nice cloud of white smoke. Didnt have ANY smoke issues with the oil last year though. So im not impressed with the tranny fluid at all. Id recommend spraying the rubber parts with tranny fluid, and then do the rest of the car with oil.