WASyL

here is a thing, my car is 383 engine with HSR intake, 2x58 TB, 32 ford racing injectors, CS XR276HR-12 cam, T-56 trans, all tuned on MSII, rearend is LS-1 with 3,42 ratio. Tires are 275/r17 Nitto 555r. front and reat KYB AGX shocks&struts, eibach pro-kit springs, adjustable rear LCA's with LCARB. whole interior. What should i do else to achive 11 sec on street without removing interior ?

best regards

Manic Z

iTrader: (1)

You're missing an important piece of info...what heads??

WASyL

sorry, my heads are pain in the ***, they are Edelbrock 165cc (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60859/ ) CR is quite high. i don't remember exactly but around 10,5:1

best regards

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Need much bigger heads for one. if the tires can hook you can get 11's out of that combo but you need to launch hard and be quick on the shifts

Bigger cam would be nice as well. More gear would help too

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I'm not understanding the question. If you want to run 11's on the streets, go to the track....run 11's.....and that means you will run 11's on the street. A car runs what it runs, street or track. Guess I'm just not getting exactly what your asking. And 165 heads are definately too small with that much of a healthy combo. Get at least some 195's on there and you'll feed it much better. 165's are good on a 302, not a 383!

WASyL

first thing, in my country there is no dragstrip at all, nearest one is in Germany and i would had to go over 500 miles - not possible at themoment so i have to do this on street. as for heads i'm planing to change them in future as well as cam but shipping parts form US to Europe is so expencieve that i can't afford at the moment, especialy heads which costs alot.
@Orr - i'm racing for over 10 years with different european cars which all are stick so shifting is quick enought
any other suggestions ?

best regards

blackbmagic

Those heads are small and so is the cam. You will need at least 350whp to creep into the high 11's eg.11.9xx. With your setup you might be making around 375-400crank. So it might be possible to creep into the 11's on a perfect day. Ideally to have a sure shot at running deep into the 11's you will need at least 400-450 whp which your setup right now will not make. Easy fix would be to get rid of those heads, get yourself a set of 195,200, or 210cc's and run a larger cam. Heck my heads are bigger and my cam is more aggressive on my 350 but I haven't finished my build yet either.

Gears might wake it up a bit as well. 3.73-4.10 would be allot better than the 3.42's

WASyL

ok i get the point, what heads and cam would You suggest ??

best regards

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

what exhaust setup do you have?

WASyL

edelbrock tes tubular headers and flowmaster american thunder II cat back, cat removed

what do You think about these heads:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30410001/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12008-01/


best regards

blackbmagic

depends on your price range or budget.

AFR 195's are nice and would wake it up 210's would be better

Dart 200's or 210's

for more budget conscious I suggest the Brodix IK series 200cc or 210cc ( I have the 200's and they are great btw)

WP sportsmanII or dart Iron eagle for good Iron heads.

The Brodix IK200 series, WP SPII, Dart iron eagles can be found new and assembled for under $1200/pair

Cams I would suggest XR294HR-10 If you went with the brodix or WP heads.

blackbmagic

They are not bad I haven't heard to much about RHS heads. The Trick flows arent bad I have had a few buddys build with them. Those specific heads have a low valve lift and when you put on larger heads you will want a more aggressive cam to reap the benefits.

I would recommend the brodix over those there flow is compared to the AFRS and they have .575 max lift which is more that both of those heads stock.

BRO-1021001 compare the flow tests with other brands. They also offer the head in CNC and race style which flow even better. I spent awhile researching and they fit my budget as well as my power goals so I guess I am a bit biased towards these. You can let the numbers speak for themselves tho

WASyL

can You give me some combo of cam and heads for my 383 that in total price won't go over 1500$

best regards

blackbmagic

I just did.

the Brodix heads and the cam I just mentioned are tops $1200 plus a 290$ cam = 1490

Thats as cheap as you will get unless you are buying no name heads or porting stockers.

WASyL

Thank You

best regards

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

The street and track are two different worlds. The street is not going to 60 foot a car like the track. So, basically , unless you are AWD, it is near impossible to make a car run the same on both. Now there is the exception to the hot spots like we had here in Houston that was actually prepped with VHT, though still no the track, it hooked damn good for what it was.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Agreed, if you are setting up a 1/4 mile on a typical street pavement, unprepped...even on drag slicks you wont 60 foot well.

So expect to see around a 2.0-2.2 60 foot time on a street road. It may be worse. Most street tire cars at the track get 2.0's, some can do abit lower like 1.9's.

To get 11's with a slow roll out like that you need some major power. My 383 went 11.4's at 118-119 on slicks with a 1.5x 60 foot. Take a half second out of the 60 and thats almost a full second at the 1/4.. so I'd be in the 12.4's on a 2.0 60 ft.