plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I may try to hit the tread mill, or a weight loss plan of some sort.

I can't use a carb spacer since I'm running an RPM Air Gap and Holley 650 on there with a 14x3 drop base air cleaner on the stock IROC hood. I may try to fashion up some sort of cold air system. That damn T56 added a good chunk of weight, but damn I wouldn't trade that thing for the world. Roller rockers worth looking into maybe? I'm using stock stamped steel.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Well, my friend was in an accident yesterday with her LS1 Camaro. She is thankfully doing just fine, only some bruises. The car is a pretty big heap at this point...



Before:


After:










I'm so glad that she is alright, and since this accident occured at about 50mph, goes to show you that these cars, being mostly fiberglass, don't hold up worth a damn in an accident... Take this lesson out of this guys: If you're running E/T streets, stay off the road on wet days, they are made for DRY PAVEMENT only!

The engine/tranny/wheels/rear/dshaft/borla exhaust (minus a tip) are all intact and salvagable. The car will live on in a new body at some point, but now we have to go through all the insurance bs... I'll be helping her find a new set of wheels next year to throw this combo into and get to work on swapping everything in.

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

They're not mainly fiberglass and the car held up just fine....she hit multiple things doing 50mph. Did you expect a few scratches? The car did exactly what it was supposed to, it crumpled and kept the passenger compartment completely intact.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Go try a side impact with your "not mainly fiberglass" car and see if you live to tell me about it. I was very thankful to see that there was no side impact, because she would have been messed up good in that case...

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

I've seen plenty of them at the shop. Fbody's never have been great at side impacts throughout their history...regardless of that the comparison is irrelevant. If you take almost any car in the late 90's/early 2000's and have it go through a side hit at 50-60mph and it won't be pretty. The car did it's job, she spun out at 50mph and hit something, HARD and she walked away just fine. I'm not sure what you were expecting the car to do. You look at the door area, the structure around the door, roof and everywhere else the occupants sit...all intact and fine. The car did its job. She's very lucky...then again...what do I know...I only do this stuff every day.

You should be thankful she wasn't in one of our thirdgens...she would've been banged around a lot more than she was.

Are they Nittos she was driving on?

Big Dog Chevy

Man I'm sorry to hear that. But what were they thinking driving in a down poor with some slicks.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I'm not sure why they thought it was a good idea, but at least she's okay, didn't hit anyone else, and the car can be used as a transplant for the next project.

cIaRmOaCrZo

if those numbers are true with the power rating, then you got em!!!

89IrocZ350TPI

Scroll to the top of the page.

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Was a real nice car too. only good thing is u didn't get beat by a girl again. My condolences go out for yet another nice chevy. Sorry guys.

PHAT89TA

if ur friend is willing to part out. tell her ill buy the wheels with the tires.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

It is being parted out completely. She has decided to just strip the car and move on to a different car altogether. Keep an eye out for a thread in the Parts for Sale section (I'll post a link here too)

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Thread is up for the part-out of the 98 LS1. You can view it here.

s346k

yowzer, that was a mystic teal car, too, sucks. at least she's ok.

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to bring this thread back but kinda got called on me and what I stated my times were.Couldnt find my best time slip but I did find one of my 2nd best which is only 1/10th off my best and less than 2 mph.This thing is 3 or more years old.Just something for any doubters and it was on street tires with 2.73 gear,stock stall and flowtech headers,bone stock tpi.I have since added quite a few mods but no new times due to Trans and other issues.Believe it or not its the truth no spray.Calculates to 13.77 or so.Even though it says 1320 its an 1/8th mile track.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Impressive times for sure - you've proved yourself, always respect that.

This is actually a good time to bring the thread back. The 98 Z28 that was wrecked has been replaced by a 2000 Z28 in essentially stock form right now. Since the last time her and I raced, I have done the following:

-New tires (BFGoodrich g-Force Sports, 245 in the front, 255 in the back)
-Poly bushings on front and rear sway bars (sway bar bushings and endlinks)
-Panhard bar with poly bushings
-Edelbrock torque arm
-New 2.5" true dual exhaust (straight pipes dumped before axle into Flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber, Hedman longtubes)
-Rearend rebuild (28 spline axles, Zexel Torsen posi, 4.10 gears, aluminum girdle with cap support)

I have been attempting launching on the street and with the addition of the new tires, the 4.10's really aren't that bad in first gear. It hooks decently, but I may try the addition of some ET Streets this time around later in the season. Will keep everyone updated.

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

Off topic but seeing your car without the side molding has helped me make up my mind.Think I`ll keep the lower stripes though.

I also went with the bfg G force 255/50/16 rear and 245 fronts.I got some 28x15x9.5 m/t from a guy with almost no passes for free.Just gotta get some wheels for them.Posi units shot too.money is low

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Tomorrow night we are heading back to the 1/8th for a new match-up:

As mentioned, the 98 Z28 has been replaced by a 2000 Z28. So far, her mods include:

- Subframe connectors
- ET Streets, 275 width
- Eibach lowered
- AGX adjustable shocks
- Flowmaster exhaust

This setup netted her 8.86 @ 81mph in the 1/8th (closer to 80mph).

My setup this year has not seen track time, but my old best is 8.89 @ 82.7mph with 3.73 gears, short headers, etc. Here is my current list:

-T56 6-speed
-350 + .060" = 360cu. @ 10.5:1 compression
-Holley 650 DP with Holley HP mainbody
-Mild cam (204/214 @ .050)
-71' Corvette heads, full porting, 1.6,2.02 valves
-New tires (BFGoodrich g-Force Sports, 245 in the front, 255 in the back)
-Poly bushings on front and rear sway bars (sway bar bushings and endlinks)
-Panhard bar with poly bushings
-Edelbrock torque arm
-New 2.5" true dual exhaust (straight pipes dumped before axle into Flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber, Hedman longtubes)
-Rearend rebuilt (28 spline axles, Zexel Torsen posi, 4.10 gears, aluminum girdle with cap support)

I expect to run at least a tenth or two faster this season, but my obvious limitation is traction. Getting off the line any better than 2.0x is extremely difficult.

Anyway, any guesses as to the outcomes of a few matchups between the two cars? Later in the season will be more interesting as she adds an LS6 intake, some unknown heads, and perhaps a cam. At that point, she'll be leaps and bounds ahead of me, but maybe with the addition of slicks and an XE274 cam I'll be able to at least keep up somewhat. We shall see. Stay tuned for videos from Friday.

Big Dog Chevy

As long as you don't spin you should have her again. At this point you have more power than she does in which case you can leave with her then muscle her down at the end. If you had some DRs that would be a slaughter. Anyway have fun adding her to the kill list. lol

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

My car (last season) is now down to an 8.51 @ 84.7mph in the 1/8th. Her car with current setup is down to an 8.05 @ 86.0mph.

I have bolded the changes that have been made to each car this year.

2000 Z28 specs (her):

- Longtubes with y-pipe
- Torque converter (not sure of specs)
- Decent tune
- Subframe connectors
- ET Streets, 275 width
- Eibach lowered
- AGX adjustable shocks
- Flowmaster exhaust

1986 IROC-Z (me):

-T56 6-speed with Spec Stage 4 6-puck unsprung clutch and Pro 5.0 shifter
-350 + .060" = 360cu. @ 10.5:1 compression
-Holley 650 DP with Holley HP mainbody
-XE274 Comp Cam
-71' Corvette heads, full porting, 1.6,2.02 valves
-New tires (BFGoodrich g-Force Sports, 245 in the front, 255 in the back)
-Poly bushings on front and rear sway bars (sway bar bushings and endlinks)
-Panhard bar with poly bushings
-Edelbrock torque arm
-New 2.5" true dual exhaust (straight pipes dumped before axle into Flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber, Hedman longtubes)
-Rearend rebuilt (28 spline axles, Zexel Torsen posi, 4.10 gears, aluminum girdle with cap support, solid pinion spacer)

The biggest issue I have seen with my car was that last season when I ran the 8.51 @ 84.7, I was using the stock LT1 clutch. I now have a set of MT ET Streets on a set of RS rims I use, but when I use them, the tires stick and the clutch slips, resulting in 2.2x 60's - ouch! I therefore am in the process right now of replacing the clutch with a stage 4 from Spec which I understand will NOT slip at all. This should finally give me the combination I need between the slicks and the clutch to get my 60's in the 1.7 range. Once I do that, looks like her car and mine may end up dead even at the end of the track.

Big Dog Chevy

Did her car run that 8.05 with the TC, Headers and Tune?

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I know that on occassion they put a 50 dry shot in it, could've been on that as well. Chances are she ran it with the above mods though without the shot.

They have also added a ram air setup that netted her a couple mph boost in the 1/8th as well. They added that about 6 months ago. Her best overall with everything remains the 8.05 @ 86mph.

She 60's 1.7 while I'm stuck at 1.9-2.1. I have only 1.9 60' one time. Hopefully this new clutch will let me do much better off the line.

Big Dog Chevy

OK, well now that she has a TC and some tires it will be hard to catch her. Her 1/8 mile et would be a 12.4-12.6 in the 1/4 and yours would be 13.3-13.4. That's 8-9 cars. I don't think a cam and clutch will be enough plus will your drivetrain hold up behind the clutch drops needed to 60 right. You might want to run a cold/ram air setup yourself to get that mph up. If she was stock weight when she ran that 8.0 then you will be in trouble if she starts to drop some weight. Those LS cars can hit 11s with just a few of the right mods. Get more info on her car and try to do some of the little things that add power. you don't want to loose to a girl

Big Dog Chevy

id have to see a dyno sheet to believe that head and tiny cam combo make that good of power...LS1....[/quote]



Hey Scamaro355, I have some new dyno numbers and a sheet for ya if you want to check it out. With some more tunning and upping the fuel press we made 409 hp and 425lbs ft of torque with that cam. Hit 11s on motor with a not so good 60'. Still has smog, ac and working egr lol. Big time sleeper.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

We are going to see if that 'built' 10 bolt will hold a few 5k dumps haha. She only traps 1.3mph more than me in the 1/8th. I don't really expect to win the race, but at least make it a bit more interesting. We are both full weight. I'd like to try and dry some poundage here and there. There are a few things I can do to get probably 100 pounds or so out pretty easily.

Big Dog Chevy

Unless you guys ran your best times at the same time you can't look at it as being 1.3 mph better. You could have had better air that day or she could have had worse air on her day. I'm looking at the et also. If she trees you then the et will not show you that. With the times you posted she has you by at least 5 cars. The better clutch will help a lot but if you dont have the torque and dead hook you will bog which will slow you down. Make sure your tune is dead on and drop as much weight as you can. Why race her if you don't plan on taking the win.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Haven't raced her since, but the car is now down to 8.29 @ 85.2 mph, 1.84 60'. The SPEC stage 4 clutch definitely helped, there is more in the 60'. Just have to practice launching with a car that actually hooks now.

Big Dog Chevy

Thats real good! you are getting there. What is your race weight, do you know? Seems like with that stick and tires you should be able to get it down to 1.6s 60'. If you can do that then you will be in the 7s. Do you have video?

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, it's getting there I think =) I haven't weighed the car yet - I really need to do that. It's full weight though, plus some... Any ideas for weight reduction that will keep the car's interior intact? There is sound deadener in the hatch area I'm working to remove, but it's asphalt based crap... Probably about 30 lbs right there.

Videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnSi7pWU0js (best run)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2Ih1WCvkrY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2c4D5_yBvc

Obviously my reaction time is complete crap right now. I don't have a rev limiter/2 step in there, so I'm paranoid about over-revving off the line and I have to control stage rollout as well in the left lane moreso than the right lane for whatever reason. I have the shift light set to 5500, which equates to me shifting around 5800 or so down the track. I usually watch for the light to come on and dump it. In third at the end of the track though, it spins to about 6100.

Big Dog Chevy

Man that looks good. Try and get some more heat in the tires to hook better. To lose weight is easy. Seats (rear top and bottom) are easy to take out and put back in. Sound deadening from front to back and in the doors is a lot (about 52lbs for mine). wiper bottle and fluid is one. Sway bar front is about 34lbs for IROC, Bat in the back and no junk in the car. For one of my customers who had a money race in one hour we took out 170lbs worth of stuff and got his car down to 3220 lbs with the stock steel hood and ground effects. Car dropped 2 tenths also. It was a ton of little things that added up. We took a digital scale with a big tub on top and threw everthing we took off into it to keep track of the weight.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I'm popping the clutch in 2nd for the burnout and leaving it there around 4500 rpms to get them heated. Should I just stay in it a bit longer next time? I don't dare try to pop 3rd and every time I try to shift during a burnout it bogs out. No line lock is killing me, lol.

Thanks for the compliments and tips. I'll report back soon with more results.

Big Dog Chevy

2nd is fine, just stay in it a little bit longer. You should 60 better than that. what rpms are you leaving the line at and what is your timing curve looking like. You have enough to take that LS1 once you work out the details. loose some weight and 60' 1.6s and you will be in the sevens. I love grudge races lol.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I really have always been in the dark about timing. I can get the initial set, I believe I have it right at 12 initial, but the advance confuses me. Also, question for you, do you think removing the exhaust (even though it's straight through to 2 chamber mufflers) would help at all? If anything it might save some more weight and open up the longtubes.

I am leaving at around 5k rpms I believe, I'll have to check my in-car video to confirm. Really want a 2-step, just can't afford it right now.

Big Dog Chevy

The reason I asked cause with your motor combo, stick, gears and tires you should be able to hit 1.6s easy. Tunning is a big part of getting the most out of your combo. By not knowing what your total timing is or what your curve looks like you could be leaving hp and torque on the table.
I don't like chambered mufflers at all for max flow. Get some straight thru mufflers or take them off. That would help with a tenth or two. Do you know what your air/fuel ratio is at wot? If these things are not 100% right that could be holding hp/torque back. On one cust car we lost 20hp just going from 12.9 to 1 afr to 12.5 to 1. I was surprised cause the car sounded the same. Trust me tunning can get you a lot!
If I knew your race weight I could tell you about how much hp you are putting to the ground by your mph.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Figure the stock weight of an IROC plus a bit for the T56 probably, and I weigh 185lbs. Should be something like 3450 + 185 = 3635lbs or so I imagine.

On another note, I guess I'm going to have to get some A/F readings and get someone in the area that can help me out with timing.

Big Dog Chevy

Based off the info you provided,

From your 60' your whp is 263.14
From your 1/8 mile ET your whp is 290.63
From your 1/8 mph your whp is 329.4

As you can see your numbers are not matching which shows me you still have not maxed ETd the hp you have. Out of the three, your mph is the better one to get a whp reading from as the others are effected by traction.
At 15% drivetrain loss you are making about 387 hp at the flywheel. These are rough numbers cause I do not have the track weather info and may be off +/- 1%.
I think your combo should be good for at least 400+ hp so tunning may be in your future. If you don't already have them get some underdrive pulleys and a overdrive alternator pulley to keep your amps up. It's the little things that add up.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I've looked into timing a bit: Would a dial back timing light suit my needs to at least give me an idea of what my total timing is sitting at? Also, I hear all over the place my initial timing needs to be this or that or this or that, no one seems to agree. I know it's different for every engine, but how much is going to be too much? I know spark knock will tell me when, but is there a typical initial advance that I should'nt ever go beyond? I assume not much can be known until I report back with some findings.

As far as tuning the carb, there is only one guy in the area I know of that can SORT OF tune a carb - he isn't the greatest. I run a Holley 650 DP with a Holley HP main body on it (no choke tower), 73 primary jets and 80 secondaries. It idles with a nice burn your eyelids off smell (too much).

I'll open one can of worms at a time and start with getting the timing set properly, then I'll move on to adjusting the carb.

Thank you for the power output figures - puts things into perspective for me.

Big Dog Chevy

Well as far as the timing goes the initial can be 0-14 or what ever. It's based off what your dissy is set up for. If you have 12 deg initial plus 22 mechanical all in buy 3000 rpm then total will be 34 degs. Get you a balancer timing number strip, timing light and block off you vacum to the dissy. slowly rev the motor while watching the timing mark move. Note where it is at different rpm and thats's your curve. Most dissy's can be adjusted pretty easy.
That rich afr can be costing you torque and hp. Find someone with a wideband o2 sensor and test it as close to the hedder for the best readings.