Well my friend that works with me has a 91 nissian 240sx 2.4 180,000+ catback, cai, and its a stick. I have a 91 firebird v6 auto with all the mods in the signiture can i take him? We have been talking about racing them for awile and i think when the track opens march 4 were gonna race? Just wanna kno if im wasting my time or will i have a chance?

 

I think it will be close. You are smart taking it to the track. That way winner has proof of victory!

 

if your car domain site at 16.5 is up to date i have a feeling you will lose but good luck and yes take it to the track

 

Those things NA are slow as hell. If he had a SR20DET (swapped in) I would say youre screwed. But those stock engines are dogs.

 

I 'd have to give this one to the 240

 

When I had a stock 305 tpi set up I was leaving work one day and got to a stop light and a co-worker with a 240 was on my bumper. I punched it hard when the light turn green and that 240 stayed right on my bumper the whole time.

I say your toast and to add to that I also out ran a car like yours with a RS eclipse.

 

Know that those ets on my cardomain were a estimate what my car would run with just its catback. It is the stock k24 with 180,000 miles.

 

ummmmm no not really, thge stock 240 engines actually perform decently well for a four banger, they are up to par with stock LO3s.

They run the 1/4 mile at 16.1 stock, it takes only exhaust and intake to get them to run high 15s. Infact I am too scared to race my friend's 240 even though him and I have basically the same mods, I weigh about 300lbs more than he does, and his car has like instant traction.

With luck chance I could take him, but honestly it wouldn't be that bad of a win, I would probably edge him out or he would edge me out.

As for the topic creator, I dunno bud, it doesnt take much to make 240s quick little cars, they can handle like they are on rails too....

 

And this is with the 2.4 engine? I thought if the car dont have a sr20det in it, it wont be fast.

 

mason dixon raceway is in hagerstown maryland.....i thought they were shutting that place down?....either way it isnt that great of a track, but it was one of the few around

 

I drove 2 and raced one with my worn out L03 and beat the crap out of it. So I figure that they are nothing special without a turbo on there.

 

a friend of mine has a 91 stock 240 sx with minor bolt ons such as exhaust and other little stuff and i raced him at the strip and i only beat him by like a .002 of a second with my 350 camaro (i ran a 15.2), so with a v6 you'd be toast

 

no offense but a 15.2 is horrible for any Camaro 350 except a stock one from a 1979 Camaro RS.

 

The KA24 is a truck motor. Its not exactly fast but then again neither are V6 Camaros. I think you are toast because of a weight disadvantage. I have alot of friends with 240's seen alot of 1/4 runs. I think the lightests ones are the older S13 180SX hatch style, heaviest the newer S14 longer body style with a trunk. But generally speaking the KA should be a 15 maybe 14 second setup w/ mods, the SR20 w/ stock turbo low 14's to high 13's and upgraded turbo should be in the 12's, maybe even 11's depending on turbo. We got a bunch of them around here that put down around 375rwhp w/ upgraded turbo SR20's and run consistent mid to high 11's at our local track depending on the car. One of them put down over 400rwhp with the stock SR20 engine (but w/ huge turbo) those things are no joke if you build em right and tune em good. But the N/A KA24 .... not much to get excited about.

 

no offense but my knock sensor was going off for about year ( when i ran it at the track also) and i didnt even know it cuz when i got a *Stock 350 block from a truck the guy that put it in for me also used my *stock 305 heads with a small combustion chamber and it retarded my timimg to all hell, now i have it all rebuilt with correct everything .030 over and 93 gas always goes in her should be atleast a second faster before all my bolt ons (headers 3" exhaust, posi rear, high stall converter, 454 tbi, manifold,) then who knows

 

You're running a TBI injection system? I hear the biggest thing with TBI systems is proper tuning and making sure you have the right injectors

 

thanks for the input.

 

If you don't do chip work your car will no no faster. You have the change the timing and fuel in the chip. Without it your car will be a slug and eat gas.

 

My Boosted KA24DE resents you calling it a truck motor
As for the race...the V6 car will be annihilated. I ran my 240sx N/A for a while, and I walked a few L03's and TPI 305's. This is coming from someone who owns/has owned both cars
Oh, and an SR will get you MID 14's stock with stock boost levels. High 13's @ 10-12 psi though. They will NOT spin off the mine either unless the guy can't drive.

 

Hehehe hopefully I didnt offend you, its a joke around here locally with my Nissan friends. The K24DE-T is no punk, I've seen a few of those and they are pretty mean. What kit did you use?

 

Sure be a nice daily driver, if I could find one that hasn't been hacked up for drifting or something...

 

people keep sayn my boosted 240 and stuff ths s a all motor pretty much stock 91 240 base model 190000 mles. sry my I and K dont wanna wor rght. m sure f my frned put a turbo on my car thn he sad a t3 or t4 m sure a t61 turb they mae for my car would crush t. ths s 2 all motor lghtly modded cars the 240 has got 70000 more mles then mne and mne has always been taen care of.

 

Didn't use a kit, all one fab custom stuff sans the manifold. Turbo is a Garret T25 from an SR20, SMIC from an S15...cusotm mandrel bent charge pipes..etc. Car's making well over 200 whp now Getting ready to run meth injection becasue I'm too poor for a bigger turbo

 

NO! Just save for a bigger turbo. It's a MUCH better solution.

 

Meth injection will cost me squat... a gt28rs that'll bolt to my bottommount manifold will cost me almost a grand...adn I'm cheap
I DEFINATELY want to upgrade in teh future, but until then, I want that cheap extra 30/30 hp/tq I can gain by advancing my timing 2* (dyno proven by myself and my tuner, but we got knock at 5600 revs...so I backed it off )

 

What sort of boost and compression ratio do you have? I've heard about two scoolds of thought about that - low compression and boost the hell out of it, or high compression and just slightly enough boost to keep it uner knock and detonation. Higher compression allows the motor to actually do something all by itself before boost levels build up, but you can't run nearly as much boost as you could if your compression was lower.

Not sure what I'd do if I was given the option of boosting a car, though.

 

Having high compression pistions is like using methonal. It has a limited potential and is only more beneficial than the other set-up under certaincircumstances.

What you need to understand is that once you have boost, you always want more. It's different than an N/A build because you can't just "turn up" the potential of your N/A build. Where I'm going is that, if you ever do get the chance to boost something, don't go out of your way to install high compression pistons, because you'll just have to go out of your way to take them out again when you decide that instead of only 6 psi, you'd like to run 15 psi.


EDIT: Not to mention the fact that any car you would likely boost (V8) will not really have an issue going somewhere without the turbo.

 

I think going for the meth injection is a good idea on a budget. All the guys I know with big turbos on their S13/14 had to go standalone ECM ($$$). If he can stick with what he has and boost a little more with meth injection I say go for it. I'm not sure on the KA24DE but I do know the S13/14 SR20DET has a 8.5:1 compression ratio. Most of the guys I know putting down big power (375whp+) are boosing 20+ psi on the stock SR20 engine.

 

it's 9.5:1 C/R, stock bottom end (good for about 400 whp ). But I won't be running meth so I can run more boost, only so I can run more TIMING Timing advance can make a world of difference on a boosted motor...adn it can also blow it up. I'm running .75 bar right now, it's not the boost that would cause knock, or the lack of fuel (A/F ratios are at 10.7:1 under full boost) in my case. It's my stock timing map being to aggressive. I've been considering running a BTM...but I don't really have a problem with making streetable power without boost. I ran the car N/A for a while, adn jsut "slapped" a turbo on for low boost aps.
BTW, this ain't thirdgen related

 

So what if it's not third gen related, there are plenty of other threads that are. I know you don't want to run more boost. I'd consider the BTM route, they are so cheap and easy to install. I was running 15 psi on my stock LS motor until I blinded the fuel system.

 

it is thirdgen related, because (most of us, including me soon hopefully) are thirdgen drivers and we're learning about our competition

 

Well then in that case know this:
Unless you have a worked over 350 running a pretty decent cam and either a carbmanifold(matched carb) or HSR/TPI, these little buggers will walk off and leave most thirdgens (Nitrous, forced induction, always an exception). I only had a V6 car before, but it was far from stock (3.4L swap, cam, boltons and dope), it could keep up with the Z's just fine, but would get walked by LS/VTEC Honda cars...so that ticked me off. I decided to fight fire with fire becasue I found a car for cheap (I have about 3000 TOTAL invested in my Nissan, including price of car, paintjob, adn turbo). I will ALWAYS love thirdgens... but I recognized that reliability was an issue for my car, adn that it would never do what i wanted. I miss my thirdgen ALOT...but I got 2500 cash for a V6 car that needed some body work....so i had to sell her
The competition is tough for thirdgens these days, with most family sedans outstripping them in the 1/4mile, people ahve to go all out, perform swaps, or use a power adder msot of the time to keep up with the current sports car "boom". Not sure if any of you have ever driven Evo8's, Sti's or Srt4's...but those lil' cars are stupid quick, adn can be MUCH quicker for mere pocket change... don't believe for one second that it's expensive to amke an import fast...becasue they can buy parts for a tenth of the price that we pay for thirdgen goodies. It makes me sick really...the thirdgens are so sexy

 

i live about 15 minutes from mason dixon

let me know if you want to run my car

 

Bring it on down to Houston Raceway park and we can set it up (No dope...but if You insist...I have nitrous myself...)
It's all in education afterall

 

Sorry it took me so long to see this. This is not true at ALL. A set of good rods for a Honda is still $1,000, and there are only four of them!

In fact, the only import that I can think of that has parts cheap enough to compare with domestics are air cooled Beetles.

 

I too am going to have to respectfully dissagree with this. Both Ford and GM have the best HP per $ spent on aftermarket parts. Not one other maker can top them.

 

I bet you could put a first gen turbo DSM into the 13's for around the same cost as you could a Fox Body Mustang. Then, even with diminishing marginal returns and all, I bet it'd still be pretty close to go to 10's.

 

i second that. not much is needed at all maybe at most $450

 

WHy would you ditch the stock B series rods??? Good past 500 whp... or havn't you seen that up in CO? Pistons certainly have to go, but a nice set of forged slugs from Arias or the like is about 500 bux. It varies. Adn with all the stuff on the market for these import thingies...it's driving the cost way down. I realize that parts for a motor that's been in production for 30 years is cheaper obviously :P Don't think I am bashing ANYTHING GM...I'm pretty brand loyal. And just outta curiosity Stu...how fast did you go in your last B series car?
And on that note, how much did you pay for a set of TIG welded, hand finished Headers, that came port matched? I know the manifolds I bought for several imports were in the 150-300 range (even though it's only ONE, lol). Even teh ***** down cheap EBAY stuff for imports tends to be of higher quality than say PAcesetter, or Heddman etc.

 

Yeah, about 450 for a 16g

 

I only went 13.8 and trapped 106 consistently.

I think the highest horsepower I remember seeing up here out of a Honda is something like 750, but I'm so far out of the loop, who knows.

I never said I paid that for rods (my motor was 100% stock) that's just how much they are.

Oh yeah, I bought my manifold for $300 used. A nice, equal length, hand done tig manifold can be had for around $550 brand new.

 

i don't even need a 16g. i will keep the 14b, a mbc, a boast gauge, intake, rewired fuel pump and a catback. maybe a test pipe if i have money left over.

 

Hahha I seen a 1968 CAMARO RS race a 1990 240, the 240 had all kinds of mods while the 68 had a stock 327, the camaro just dusted it from the start.

 

All kinds of mods huh? Like what? Stickers? Wheels?

 

A good turbo doesnt need to cost you a grand, Master power turbos are proven to be very reliable and deliver the power and they all are sub $1000. Most are in the $600 range. Here is a link to some for sale. Master power turbo's

With turbos this cheap, Its hard to not do the upgrade.

Oh and BTW, These are not the SSAutochrome-xSpower Crap either.