would switching from one motor oil to another effect the engine??
#1
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
would switching from one motor oil to another effect the engine??
When I first bought my car it was from an old couple that were the original owner, they always had it serviced by the dealer they bought it from. When I bought it from them it had 50,000 miles on it. I swithed the motor oil to penzoil from I think it was mobil 1. Would making a swith effect the life or performance of the engine
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
If it was Mobil 1 synthetic I'd say the switch wasn't for the best, but just keep the oil changed every 3k and you should be fine.
#3
Just my opinion, but if you want to keep the car in the same prisine condition you bought it, switch back to Mobil 1 or Amsoil as soon as you get done reading this...10W30 would be great - there is no need to use 5W-anything with synthetics. We'll see if anyone else has the same opinion.
(I can't see why anyone would go backward after the car has been so well maintained for the first 50,000 miles ¿? )
(I can't see why anyone would go backward after the car has been so well maintained for the first 50,000 miles ¿? )
#4
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
it wasn't synthetic just regular Mobil 5w 30, made the switch to Pennzoil same weight. I always change it around 2,500-3,000 miles. I know I said Mobil 1 that was my mistake.
Last edited by grafx; 04-08-2002 at 06:32 PM.
#5
Grafx,
Gotcha. That's a little different situation. The brand doesn't make a lot of difference - with a couple of exceptions. Quaker State / Pennzoil (same company) is probably one of the lowest quality oils you can get with a name brand on it. Unless you're getting it for free, I'd look for something else. Castrol, Mobil, Marvel,
It's never to late to commit to syn, either. You just can't beat those engineered polymers.
Gotcha. That's a little different situation. The brand doesn't make a lot of difference - with a couple of exceptions. Quaker State / Pennzoil (same company) is probably one of the lowest quality oils you can get with a name brand on it. Unless you're getting it for free, I'd look for something else. Castrol, Mobil, Marvel,
It's never to late to commit to syn, either. You just can't beat those engineered polymers.
#6
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by Vader
Grafx,
Gotcha. That's a little different situation.
Grafx,
Gotcha. That's a little different situation.
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#8
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
Are you guys serious, I've always used Pennzoil I had no idea it was crap. I guess I should switch if everyone is saying the same thing about it. Also is synthetic mainly for newer engines or is it alright to run it with old motors also is there some sort of cut off point where you shouldn't run synthetic? Which brand motor oil do you guys recommend the most?
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Do not use synthetic:
1) To run in a new flat-tappet cam.
2) To break in a rebuilt engine (factory new engines, no problem).
3) If the engine has a substantial amount of dino juice sludge that, if loosened, would plug the oil pump pickup screen.
If it leaks, fix it (or ignore it - it's your driveway). If it doesn't leak, it's less likely to start leaking with synthetic.
Another general rule of thumb: If it's got Pennzoil in it, change it...NOW!
1) To run in a new flat-tappet cam.
2) To break in a rebuilt engine (factory new engines, no problem).
3) If the engine has a substantial amount of dino juice sludge that, if loosened, would plug the oil pump pickup screen.
If it leaks, fix it (or ignore it - it's your driveway). If it doesn't leak, it's less likely to start leaking with synthetic.
Another general rule of thumb: If it's got Pennzoil in it, change it...NOW!
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Woops! I think I got Pennzoil in it . My bro at his place has Pennzoil, and its Certified Chevy place. While my bro in law, works at Sunoco, and uses Valvoline. What is the best "normal" oil to use, meaning crude or whatever, not synthetic.
#12
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
I've heard that with older engines it's easier for the synthetic oil to pass by the piston rings
#13
Seriously I hate Pennzoil and wouldn't use it, but when G.M., Ford, and Chrysler did there oil test a few years back it was pretty high on the list as were Valvoline and Quaker State. I'm sure if you look you can find the results of their tests, I can't find my sheet. Mobil 1 was the best and the other were close behind. The only serious problem is using 10w-40w as it didn't pass any of the big threes test and G.M. was losing quite a few cranks to this weight of oil for some reason. The problem most people get with Pennzoil is that is contains parifin wax and if it isn't changed regularly it will sludge whereas Valvoline and others will not.
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
I'm currently running regular 5w30, if I switch to a synthetic should I change the weight to 10w30 or leave it the same??
#15
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Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
Engine: LS1 / LS1 / LSA / 5.7 Hemi
Transmission: 4L60E / T-56 / 6L80E / W5A80
Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
So if I buy the '89 Formula I've been looking at, should I change to synthetic to help a 103k mile engine age gracefully, or do I say the hell with it and just keep changing it with dino stuff every 3k? Keep in mind, I get a little blue smoke on startups, and the amount of oil it will leak overnight amounts to the size of a pinhead...
I mean, this car is used to the 3,500-9k oil change intervals the former owner gave it, and it runs like a top
I mean, this car is used to the 3,500-9k oil change intervals the former owner gave it, and it runs like a top
Last edited by Jason E; 04-10-2002 at 02:21 PM.
#16
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i am using moble1 synth 15w-50 in my Camaro with 130,000 miles of dino on it, just to help reduce the amount of blue smoke comng out. NO leaks and the inside of the engine is clean, looks like the guy eaither used **** oil with a flush every now and then or had the heads pulled and something done so they are clean now.....
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
I think people take this oil thing waaay too seriously. I figure the bottom line here is:
1. If my car burns (or leaks) more than a quart between oil changes, it gets dino juice - no,no,no...doesn't matter too much on brand. just one of the major ones should do fine - change oil & filter every 3,000 give or take a few hundred. You'll have no problems.
2. No leakage, and doesn't seem to burn oil - AND- you plan on keeping her for awhile.. then go with synthetic and change it every 5-6K miles. Oh, BTW - if you plan on selling it soon...refer to #1.
Oh BTW....There's no need to get really choosey about fully synthetic brands. The difference between them are little. I've sat through a couple classes at work given by Mobil reps, and that's what they also say.
1. If my car burns (or leaks) more than a quart between oil changes, it gets dino juice - no,no,no...doesn't matter too much on brand. just one of the major ones should do fine - change oil & filter every 3,000 give or take a few hundred. You'll have no problems.
2. No leakage, and doesn't seem to burn oil - AND- you plan on keeping her for awhile.. then go with synthetic and change it every 5-6K miles. Oh, BTW - if you plan on selling it soon...refer to #1.
Oh BTW....There's no need to get really choosey about fully synthetic brands. The difference between them are little. I've sat through a couple classes at work given by Mobil reps, and that's what they also say.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Confuzed1
Oh BTW....There's no need to get really choosey about fully synthetic brands. The difference between them are little. I've sat through a couple classes at work given by Mobil reps, and that's what they also say.
Oh BTW....There's no need to get really choosey about fully synthetic brands. The difference between them are little. I've sat through a couple classes at work given by Mobil reps, and that's what they also say.
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both of you care to back your selfs up with cold hard facts?? I tend not to believe either of you...LOL 25 thousand or 1 year on the oil...i say BS, but that is me, and there is no difference, i say BS too b/c then you would see Castrol Syntec talkn about other full synthetic brands in their commercials, not just conventional oils.....make sense...gotta love my last min. typing.....
Oh i run 10w30 GTX in the summer
5w-30 GTX in the fall/spring
0w-30 in the dead winter
ON THE GOOD CAR
the convert gets 15w-50 moble 1 to help reduce VISABLE smoke....LOL stays in there for like untill july becuase i just don't give a FOCK about the that engine, only need like 7,000 more miles otta of it...LOL
ACDELCO filters
Oh i run 10w30 GTX in the summer
5w-30 GTX in the fall/spring
0w-30 in the dead winter
ON THE GOOD CAR
the convert gets 15w-50 moble 1 to help reduce VISABLE smoke....LOL stays in there for like untill july becuase i just don't give a FOCK about the that engine, only need like 7,000 more miles otta of it...LOL
ACDELCO filters
Last edited by camaro6spd; 04-11-2002 at 10:27 AM.
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