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valvoline max life oil

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Old 04-05-2002, 06:35 PM
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valvoline max life oil

has anyone used this oil for their engines and if so how well does it work?
Old 04-05-2002, 06:48 PM
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
We shall find out. I just put it in my car.. read up on the stuff on the website.. and looked for information on it. seems to be ok.
Old 04-05-2002, 08:37 PM
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I'm running it since my last oil change. Didn't notice any difference on the smoking but my guides are wasted pretty bad. It does seem to hold slightly better oil pressure though. In my opinion valvoline is the only way to go on dino oil. Later
Old 04-06-2002, 11:06 AM
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I only put valvoline in mine so I will try the max life oil
Old 04-06-2002, 11:20 AM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There was a thread on it a couple of months ago. You might want to do a search.

You're paying a lot more money for a little more plasitizer in the oil. That means they had to take something else out to put that in.

To me, petroleum-based oil is for an engine that you intend to change or rebuild soon. If you want to keep the engine for awhile, fix whatever leaks you may have, and use a real lubricant.
Old 04-06-2002, 05:40 PM
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Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
5.7 is right. Long life oils generally have more polymers to prevent thinning as the oil gets hot. A rule of thumb is this, the LESS polymers the better. You are better puffing a little oil than putting in additives or oils with additives. The polymers will burn,possibily causing ring sticking and deposits in the engine. Any oil company will tell you that the use of additives is not required and will detract from the synergistic action of thier formula. Synergistic simply means that thier additive package is made to work with ALL additives they incorporate into thier formulation. Any addition of other formulas will detract from thier formula. Fact is, a worn engine IS a worn engine.
Old 04-06-2002, 06:38 PM
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
So, is this stuff not stuff a good idea then.. ? I just put it in,. so 5000 Km. from now I'll be changing it again.. would it be recommended then to go back to what I was using before. ? I was using the Castrol GTX 10w30 before.
Old 04-07-2002, 08:47 AM
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Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
To be sure you really need to get the inspection data from the manufacturer, but in all honesty most of these hypes about special formulations are just a way to get another buck or so out of you. Castrol GTX is a fine auto oil and you won't go wrong with it. The 10-30W you were using is a good choice for your circumstances and because it starts with a heavier base stock it uses less polymers. Always choose an oil with the least spread for your operating conditions.
Old 04-07-2002, 09:54 AM
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
I think it's just a sale's gimmick they are using to get people who don't know any better to buy their new more expensive oil. If you really want to increase your oil change interval then use synthetic oil, I've used Mobil 1 10w-30 since I bought my 92 new and change it every 7500 miles or so and it still doesn't burn any oil at 155,000 miles.
Old 04-08-2002, 02:50 AM
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if your talking about oil i have a q

what poils do you guys use?

synthetic or mineral?

I have a 5.7 Iroc 140k+ miles

I been used mobil1 5w, castrol 5w magnatec, now I have Quakerstate 5w all full synthetics.

soem people are saying that use only what is recommended
= mineral for example 15w40 (I have that on my dipstic)
because about of clereances of engine bearings etc

also mineral is more "dirty" and ssynthetic more clean,

what do You use?
Old 04-08-2002, 06:19 AM
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Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
If you don't mind the extra money synthetic oil is the preferred way to go. Thier pour points, viscosity index, flash points are generally superior to conventional oils. Are they dirtier than synthetics? Depends on what you look upon as dirt. "DINO" oils contain parrafin which if the oil is not changed on a regular basis can cause deposits to collect and form sludge. Even conventional oils today have very good additive packages and in effect will provide good service if the maintenance schedule is observed. I would be careful changing around brands of synthetic though. If you look at the data from Mobil they state that thier Mobil1 line is compatible with conventional oil it may NOT be compatible with all synthetics. If you are going to run synthetic I would choose a brand and stick with it. What year car? I have not seen any manufacturer specify a viscosity grade that high. Most of the cars from the mid 80's to present day specify 5-30 as the preferred oil. Just curious!
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