dreaded stripped torx screw
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
dreaded stripped torx screw
..............lower one on the smog pump, top one came out easily so i was able to pivot the pump down to get my new belt on...91.5 inches btw.......but the bottom one is stripped to hell. tried vise grips,uhuh............what have you guys done? or what are my options other than the obvious.take it to my mechanic , etc.................ive used easy outs for stripped screws in the past but i think it would just snap on a bolt this big..also i would need a right angle drill to drill it or remove the radiator which i definitely dont want to get into for one bolt..........gimme your thoughts............was think about putting a groove in it with a dremel and using a chisel but there is no electric where my car is stored..........sux
#2
Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Tecumseh,Mi,USA
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can use a chisel on it without using a dremel tool, If you can get to it. The chisel will make its own groove, Just tap it a few times until it makes a notch then hit it hard. If you do this before you strip the bolt out, you can put pressure on it with the torx bit and hit it at the same time and it works even better. I had to use this method on one of intake manifold to head bolts.
Nick
Nick
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
ummmmmm if i grind the head off it will be flush , no bolt to grab......am i missing something your saying? also on the chisel idea..i would have to go buy a good one, obviuosly not a wood chisel......... what type chisel is best for this application? and would autozone or something have it or would home depot be better?
#6
Wasp,
Before you go out to purchase anything, start soaking the area of the bolt in penetrating oil. It will help immensely.
If you have full access to the head of the bolt, try some self-gripping pliers, like Knipex or Channel-Lock 410s. Regular water pump pliers (Channel-Lock type) will just slip, and Vise-Grips just plain SUCK A BIG ONE for gripping anything but plastic - the jaws aren't even hardened past 42 Rc (they make a great clamp, though).
If you can't get it to start moving with the pliers, try heating the bolt head and allow time for the heat to conduct to the body and threads of the bolt. Try again with the pliers if you can, since once you start with the chisel you're committed.
Another option would be welding a nut to the bolt head and using a regular hex wrench or socket, but the heating from welding is half of the cure. A mig stuck right down the bolt recess and hole in the nut works well to control spatter.
Good luck.
Before you go out to purchase anything, start soaking the area of the bolt in penetrating oil. It will help immensely.
If you have full access to the head of the bolt, try some self-gripping pliers, like Knipex or Channel-Lock 410s. Regular water pump pliers (Channel-Lock type) will just slip, and Vise-Grips just plain SUCK A BIG ONE for gripping anything but plastic - the jaws aren't even hardened past 42 Rc (they make a great clamp, though).
If you can't get it to start moving with the pliers, try heating the bolt head and allow time for the heat to conduct to the body and threads of the bolt. Try again with the pliers if you can, since once you start with the chisel you're committed.
Another option would be welding a nut to the bolt head and using a regular hex wrench or socket, but the heating from welding is half of the cure. A mig stuck right down the bolt recess and hole in the nut works well to control spatter.
Good luck.
Last edited by Vader; 02-24-2002 at 01:52 PM.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 mildly modified
Transmission: 700R4 fully modified
I usually use the chisel method but the other day I was at NAPA and they had a tool that worked pretty much the same way. It was pretty pricey, but it would grip on just about anything. It came in a set of 4, fit on your ratchet.
If you can't get the chisel to work, then you might want to grab this tool.
-=-Mike
If you can't get the chisel to work, then you might want to grab this tool.
-=-Mike
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
no rezin because the pump sits inside the bracket and the bolt goes thru both, so cutting the head off would leave nothing to grab.........yes vader i did use some wd 40 but i think im gonna get some of that good penetrating oil,forget who makes it but its in a yellow and red can i believe and a good brand new set of channel locks...if that dont work ill have to try the chisel method i suppose...dont really have access to a welder but i hear ya.....
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
are these what your talking about vader? or regular channel locks? just want to make sure http://www.channellock.com/products/410.html
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
also...is it neccesary to put the top bolt back in for bracket purposes? the long one that goes into the head? i assume if you were going to put it back in you would have to get a shorter one..........and i feel the other bolts holding the bracket on are sufficient no?
#11
Originally posted by wasp
are these what your talking about vader? or regular channel locks? just want to make sure http://www.channellock.com/products/410.html
are these what your talking about vader? or regular channel locks? just want to make sure http://www.channellock.com/products/410.html
These things will grip almost anything you can fit them around. I've actually won bets using those, after people have tried Vise-Grips, stud extractors, etc. They used to be made only in the 9½" size, but now are offered in a few other sizes. The jaws are very hard (about 60Rc), and will bite right into anything short of a file or drill bit. They aren't exaggerating in their claims of "terrific gripping power". After using these, your Vise-Grips will be quickly relegated to welding clamp duty only.
As long as you have room to fit the bolt head and swing the pliers, they'll get it moving. Try them on exhaust studs sometimes and you'll see exactly what I mean. I'd still be liberal with the penetrating oil to ease the job once it gets moving.
Last edited by Vader; 02-24-2002 at 03:46 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Silverhill,Al
Posts: 838
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Since you don't have power where your at try taking one of those hacksaws made for tight places that just has a blade sticking out of a handle, cut a slot in the screw and try a big screwdriver.
#13
Supreme Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Posts: 2,179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
Personally, I'd grind the edges of the bolt into a square and use a crescent wrench. Hasn't failed me yet.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
no electric hence no grinder............just ordered em right from channellock vader ill let ya know what happens, say a prayer:sillylol:
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: saugerties new york
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
Originally posted by wasp
also...is it neccesary to put the top bolt back in for bracket purposes? the long one that goes into the head? i assume if you were going to put it back in you would have to get a shorter one..........and i feel the other bolts holding the bracket on are sufficient no?
also...is it neccesary to put the top bolt back in for bracket purposes? the long one that goes into the head? i assume if you were going to put it back in you would have to get a shorter one..........and i feel the other bolts holding the bracket on are sufficient no?
anyone?
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: midwestern usa
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Try spraying that bolt with FREE ALL or PB BLASTER. FREE ALL
comes in a white can with a big red ond yellow bolt printed on it.
It is a great product for freeing up rusted parts. I bought mine at NAPA for about $5.00.
comes in a white can with a big red ond yellow bolt printed on it.
It is a great product for freeing up rusted parts. I bought mine at NAPA for about $5.00.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LT1Formula
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
10-08-2015 08:34 PM