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Remote Starter Solenoid

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Old 02-21-2002 | 12:21 PM
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Lounge Lizard 6's Avatar
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From: Melbourne, FL
Remote Starter Solenoid

A fair while back the hard start problem was addressed. M.A.D. Enterprises was mentioned by someone and in reference to the START'M UP® KIT they said some additional cabling was required. How much of which cable was needed?

Thanks
Old 02-21-2002 | 02:45 PM
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Ringmaster72's Avatar
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From: Glen Burnie, MD USA
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
You need battery cable that will go from wherever you mount the remote solenoid to the starter. The original batter cable can be used to go from the battery to the solenoid. So you will just need a cable that has ends with holes in both ends in order to go over the studs on both the rmote solenoid and the original solenoid.
Also, if you have not bought the MAD kit yet, summit also sells one of these kits for like $20.


Tim
Old 02-21-2002 | 06:26 PM
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Damon's Avatar
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From: Philly, PA
Just remember that there are 2 very different "hot start problems" that you could be experiencing:

1. If the starter goes "click" when you turn the key but the starter motor won't turn the engine over the MAD kit won't help with that. You need a stronger starter and/or battery and/or some heat shielding to keep it cool.

2. If you get SQUAT when you turn the key on a hot motor then the MAD kit will fix that problem.
Old 02-21-2002 | 11:40 PM
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Lounge Lizard 6's Avatar
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I get the "squat" response. No ticks, clicks, or anything. Then 30-to 45 min later the car starts right up like nothing was ever wrong.

In ref to the earlier thread, someone here on this board had installed the M.A.D. kit but mentioned that some 2' of additional cable was really needed. I was just trying to avoid having to make an extra trip or delay the installation once I crawl on my back to do it.
Old 02-22-2002 | 10:00 AM
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^ ttt
Old 02-22-2002 | 10:46 AM
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why not buy a 3' length of cable and two copper connection ends?... cut back the cable sheathing 1/2" stuff the cable in the end of the connecter and use a plumbers torch/solder to weld them. Once you know how long you need the cable, trim it and solder the cable to the other connecter
Old 02-22-2002 | 11:26 AM
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Thanks, I might need to do that if I don't get a response from whomever used that kit.
Old 02-22-2002 | 12:49 PM
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From: Fla
Car: 90 IROC
Engine: 406
Transmission: GMPP 93/4L60
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
I used the kit on my car, Like Ringmaster72 was saying all you need is a positive starter cable with round eyes on both ends. I think I used the 24" cable not sure. Just mount the soleniod down on the frame rail beside the battery. Its close to the postive terminal and you can pull the factory harness up and attach it to the soleniod without having to cut/splice the factory stuff.
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