86 Iroc
10-03-2022, 10:09 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
86 Iroc
Starting off this is my first Iroc. It has 99k miles. I got lucky to get it from someone who had it in storage for 29 years. Gas tank was empty when I picked it up and had the same oil fluids in it. We put gas in it and a new battery and it fired right up. It is missing the tuned port injection plate on top the intake. I’m assuming it has vacuum and needs to be sealed. Other than that I only let it run for a few seconds. She’s in great shape and would love to keep it original but replace all the stuff normal aging would break down. Guess my next step is changing the oil and other fluids. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
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dmccain (10-03-2022)
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joedirt88 (10-03-2022)
10-03-2022, 06:27 PM
#3
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Car: Resto-Mod 1987 IROC-Z Clone
Engine: Alky fed L92 Vortec Twin-Turbo 6.8L
Transmission: My own built/ design 4L80M
Axle/Gears: Custom 12 bolt (4.10:1)
Re: 86 Iroc
Enjoy the Car!
One quick Note:
The battery in your Car has both Top and Side Posts...
The Positive Top Post needs to have something protecting it (a Cap or Cover).
If nothing else cover it with Heat-Shrink via a Heat-Gun.
Be careful not to Shock yourself.
One quick Note:
The battery in your Car has both Top and Side Posts...
The Positive Top Post needs to have something protecting it (a Cap or Cover).
If nothing else cover it with Heat-Shrink via a Heat-Gun.
Be careful not to Shock yourself.
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joedirt88 (10-03-2022)
10-04-2022, 09:03 AM
#4
Re: 86 Iroc
Fluids changes are in order. It would be best to get the engine up to operating temperature then drain the oil. A stock AC or Puro/Wix filter would be the recommendation. The same would be prudent for the transmission.
The power steering can be drained at the return line for the pump reservoir and refilled. That should fortify the hydraulic oil enough to provide protection.
The brake fluid likely has absorbed a lot of moisture over the past few decades and should be completely replaced. Vacuum bleeding at the calipers should do that nicely, and fortunately there is no ABS unit to get in the way.
The rear axle should also be opened for draining and refilled. If it is the 9-bolt Borg axle, friction modifier will need to be added to the gear lube to protect the cone clutches.
Drain and flush the cooling system, then refill with 50% mixture.
Closely inspect vacuum hoses and the V-belts for the accessories.
The power steering can be drained at the return line for the pump reservoir and refilled. That should fortify the hydraulic oil enough to provide protection.
The brake fluid likely has absorbed a lot of moisture over the past few decades and should be completely replaced. Vacuum bleeding at the calipers should do that nicely, and fortunately there is no ABS unit to get in the way.
The rear axle should also be opened for draining and refilled. If it is the 9-bolt Borg axle, friction modifier will need to be added to the gear lube to protect the cone clutches.
Drain and flush the cooling system, then refill with 50% mixture.
Closely inspect vacuum hoses and the V-belts for the accessories.
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joedirt88 (10-04-2022)
10-04-2022, 09:59 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Re: 86 Iroc
Fluids changes are in order. It would be best to get the engine up to operating temperature then drain the oil. A stock AC or Puro/Wix filter would be the recommendation. The same would be prudent for the transmission.
The power steering can be drained at the return line for the pump reservoir and refilled. That should fortify the hydraulic oil enough to provide protection.
The brake fluid likely has absorbed a lot of moisture over the past few decades and should be completely replaced. Vacuum bleeding at the calipers should do that nicely, and fortunately there is no ABS unit to get in the way.
The rear axle should also be opened for draining and refilled. If it is the 9-bolt Borg axle, friction modifier will need to be added to the gear lube to protect the cone clutches.
Drain and flush the cooling system, then refill with 50% mixture.
Closely inspect vacuum hoses and the V-belts for the accessories.
The power steering can be drained at the return line for the pump reservoir and refilled. That should fortify the hydraulic oil enough to provide protection.
The brake fluid likely has absorbed a lot of moisture over the past few decades and should be completely replaced. Vacuum bleeding at the calipers should do that nicely, and fortunately there is no ABS unit to get in the way.
The rear axle should also be opened for draining and refilled. If it is the 9-bolt Borg axle, friction modifier will need to be added to the gear lube to protect the cone clutches.
Drain and flush the cooling system, then refill with 50% mixture.
Closely inspect vacuum hoses and the V-belts for the accessories.
Great advice…thank you. I’ll keep y’all updated as I go 👍🏼👍🏼
10-04-2022, 02:25 PM
#6
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: 86 Iroc
On the front: I wouldn't fuss with the old brake calipers, reman used to run around $15 but can still be had for under $30. replace the hoses while you're there and check the wheel bearings.
On the rear, if it has the drum brakes, new cylinders are under $5 each. again, just replace.
Pull the master cylinder back from the booster and check for evidence of leakage.
Replace ALL belts and hoses.
On the rear, if it has the drum brakes, new cylinders are under $5 each. again, just replace.
Pull the master cylinder back from the booster and check for evidence of leakage.
Replace ALL belts and hoses.
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joedirt88 (10-04-2022)
10-06-2022, 08:21 AM
#8
Re: 86 Iroc
Agreed. It looks pretty complete. A little cleanup, assessment, service, detailing, and you would have reasonable idea of the overall condition.
Another nice thing is that the '86 should have glass tops, not plastic. As part of the detailing a thorough inspection/cleaning of the top seals should be done, but after the mechanical items are serviced and resolved. The interior looks to be mostly intact. The sags in the sail panel covering and console cover repair are not a major undertaking. You should have a nice one after just a bit of time and effort.
Another nice thing is that the '86 should have glass tops, not plastic. As part of the detailing a thorough inspection/cleaning of the top seals should be done, but after the mechanical items are serviced and resolved. The interior looks to be mostly intact. The sags in the sail panel covering and console cover repair are not a major undertaking. You should have a nice one after just a bit of time and effort.
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joedirt88 (10-06-2022)
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