I am changing the body of this post since now everyone is arguing over seafoam. I have had my car checked 5x now and we can't find this worsening tick/tap. Two guys who work on old engines I visited said they do not think it's a lifter. The sound is coming from the back left underside of the engine and is noticeably loud in the wheel well. We checked what we could on the engine without taking it apart, flexplate and exhaust system. No issues there. The last thing I can think to check are spark plugs since everything I find says bad ones can cause ticking and misfires and the car does seem to be struggling at certain rpms. I called the guy who rebuilt my tranny and said it's either the torque converter or a misfire, so we are going with plugs, cap and wires first.

Seafoam and cleaners didn't matter, the inside of my engine is surprisingly clean for 270k miles lmile
Oil pressure was also a thought and although my gauge is messed up it is reading some. I am not sure what happened but after some dude worked on my fuel pump all my gauges got 5x worse than they were.

 

Seafoam is diesel fuel mixed with water.

Generally, a "chemical flush" of the crankcase, is unnecessary, and is only needed if it's contaminated somehow. Coolant in the oil for example.

That said, sometimes varnish and sludge can build up, usually due to long-term consistent failure to change the oil. Then, sometimes, it can help to use some additive or other to loosen and dissolve the crud; keeping in mind that anything that is loosened, goes RIGHT DIRECTLY INTO THE OIL, and therefore the oil and filter MUST be changed more or less immediately, since its lubricant properties, flow through the filter, etc. are compromised.

Diesel fuel (including Seafoam) is somewhat effective at loosening that kind of crud. It is kinda slow though, not really the best choice. Also, don't forget, it's NOT a lubricant; and therefore however much it takes up of the total crankcase fill, the oil's most basic function is impaired to that extent.

Best thing I've ever found for this is, automatic transmission fluid. It has very high detergent levels, good lubrication properties, and otherwise substitutes well for oil. In addition, it's actually a hydraulic fluid, much better at that than oil is, and therefore better for lifters in that way. I've usually used a quart of that and the rest oil, and watch the oil closely for signs of needing to be changed. Usually it only takes a few hundred miles. I'll generally get a new filter when the oil is about to need to be changed anyway and fill it with ATF before putting it on, and pour the rest of the bottle into the crankcase, and let it mix with the old oil and do its thing; then check the oil every time I drive the car, so that it doesn't run for too long with really funky oil. If the motor has really been let go severely in the past, the oil can rapidly turn into black thick goo, from all that the gunk that gets dissolved into it.

Might or might not help with a lifter tick. OTOH, a ticking lifter, by itself, isn't going to take the car off the road. Not something to get all wound up about "new engine" over. Also not likely to cause leaks. Sludge doesn't act like a gasket no matter what myths you may have heard.

 

The reason I am thinking of a new engine is because not only does it have the tick but the pan is leaking and the rear main seal is on its last limb. I was told those fixes are 1k+ a new engine that has no miles on it and is stronger than my last one was quoted at 1700 for the engine, 1000-2000 for the labor of installing. The repairs needed are roughly a 3rd of just getting something new and better. I don't want this engine forever.

This car sat for over a year before I started driving it again, I did care for it as much as I could while it was in my hands but I was in another state when it sat.

Also a coworker did mention transmission fluid, I plan on doing an oil change shortly after, is there a length of time or miles you recommend to have the atf in it before changing it? Or a brand? My coworker says it works really well.

Personally I don't know if I want to use transmission fluid on the engine because it is a harsh detergent and apparently from what I am reading it eats O rings and whatnot.

 

ATF doesn't "eat O-rings" in an engine any more than it does in a transmission, which is FULL OF O-rings. It is not a "harsh" detergent, whatever that might mean. Certainly no "harsher" than Seafoam (diesel fuel / water mix).

Doesn't really matter what brand or anything. Just yerbasic Dexron of some sort. The cheeeeeeeepest local or store brand is fine. Just by qualifying to be labelled as ATF and nobody go to jail for fraud, it'll be completely adequate to do what you need done.

You may in fact find that ATF softens and swells up rubber seals and gaskets enough to reduce any leaking.

You leave it in the dirty old oil until it has flushed enough gunk into the old oil that it needs changing immediately without further hesitation. How long that is, depends on what's inside the motor. The black slimy sludge, it will EAT immediately; the hard burnt grey-black varnish will take longer. Every motor is different but it usually only takes a few hundred miles. That's why you monitor the oil: that's the only way you have of knowing that it's time to change it.

Then when you put in new oil, include a quart of ATF, and if it gets nasty and funky again, change it when it needs it. Keep doing that until the oil quits getting groaty, at which point you will know that it's all cleaned out in there.

I'd also suggest that before jumping to doom-and-gloom conclusions about pan gasket and rear main seal, that you take the car to the quarter (dollar? credit card?) car wash along with your floor jack and stands, with a stop along the way to pick up acoupla cans of store-brand "engine degreaser" (diesel fuel in a spray can). When you get to the CW, park the car in the bay, let it cool down for a bit while you jack it up and put it on stands so you can get under it, spray everything under there that has oil gook on it with the degreaser, wait 10 or 15 minutes, spray it again, wait 10 or 15 more, then blast the hell out of it. It's ALOT easier to accurately identify the source of a leak when you can actually see where the fresh fluid is coming from and trace it back to its source. You may well find that it's NOT the pan gasket OR the RMS; for example, it might ACTUALLY only need valve cover gaskets like every other small block Chevy that hasn't had them replaced in awhile, or someone might merely have left the lower bolt for the smog pump bracket off of the front of the motor, or that the oil pressure sending unit leeeeks. The missing bolt creates an oil leak that SPEWS oil down the pass side of the motor along the bottom, but only when it's at driving speed (won't usually leak detectably at idle); and the OPSU will drip down the back of the block and look EXACTLY like it's coming from the RMS, which in reality, hardly ever fails in a 86-up motor of this type. Your motor might ACTUALLY be in near-perfect shape, as far as all that goes. If you haven't done the research (car wash), you'll never know.

I don't blame you for not wanting some TBI 305 "forever". Only, use some common sense and calm down from the panic and "last limb" kind of crap, and take care of whatever potentially TRIVIAL things it REALLY needs instead of jumping directly to the conclusion that the most dire and expensive possible things are wrong with it, and maybe it'll last as long as you need it to.

 

 

What weight oil are you using? Might just need a bit thicker oil for an old engine. Some cars/trucks tick forever. Are you sure it's a lifter and not something more serious?

Seafoam makes your oil super thin, so keep that in mind. Used it to flush a couple cars w/o issue but didn't see great results when inspecting inside the engine after. I been meaning to try some other brand actual flush stuff but not had time.

 

Lifter tick at idle will be roughly 5 times per second
for example my engine has lifter tick, at 600rpm,
5 ticks per second = 5*60 = 300 times per minute, which is half of 600rpm, which is the speed of the valvetrain (1/2 engine speed = camshaft speed)

My Lifter tick at 220,000 miles and still going strong. As long as it isn't getting louder noticeably it isn't serious yet to worry about, usually.
The tick can be due to age (worn internal lifter spring mechanism), poor oil flow, wrong pushrod length, excess lifter bleed-down, bunch of reasons. A tick near the front of the engine is more likely an oil flow related tick than age related or pushrod related.
If the tick goes away with any throttle input that is a good sign and less to worry about
if it ticks all the time no matter how much throttle you might need to consider one of these "ATF cleaning routines" to hopefully lessen the tick, free up some oil flow

Good advice given by sofa, I think if you read his words carefully you can do go the right direction

 

Some great points there Sofa on identifying the leak, never heard the ATF trick before. After my car had sat for 25 years I tore off the intake end of the engine and replaced the valve seals, vc gaskets. while doing that I noticed a bunch of gunk in the oil valley under the intake. I'm not sure if anything would have broke up that gunk to my desire. so I went in there and scraped it out by hand and used kerosene to clean the entire top of the block down to bare metal. I kept the oil pan bolt on so it would dissolve any junk in the pan. this took days. when I finally finished that pain staking, very slow procedure I drained it all out, changed oil, started up, then changed oil again. now my oil stays so clean it always looks like I just changed it.

 

Jesus, I am not doom and gloom jumping. I've had the car inspected by two mechanics that I trust who have worked on my car for around 11 years. They FOUND the leak, my car is noticeably losing oil. I have to refill it unfortunately here and there. Also, like I said I WANT to upgrade the engine. It's a project car. Don't wanna put too much money or hours into work on a 305 xD it's not because I am doom and glooming. I also got it triple checked today to make sure it wasn't an exhaust manifold leak or something I was hearing. Anyways, I will try the transmission fluid check it sounds like a good start honestly!

I also use 5w-30 since it's what was recommended. I was told not to use too heavy a weight on an old engine due to it being too thick for old components and lifters possibly struggling in winter. By all means though if you have recommended oils hollar! Honestly I have put a ton of love into this car and I adore it, it runs great! I can also just work on a lifter myself. It's not a rod knock for sure for the person who asked if it was more serious, twice it was diagnosed as a lifter but the mechanics here with time to do engine work want 3 grand, just to do lifter work x_x' I was like oh boy! My dad has bought two used cheap cars with engine damage, one was a bad rod that bounced around and sounded awful! The other was a factory issue on an escort. Can't remember what broke but the piece bounced around in the engine and broke everything.

I can tell the noise, if facing the engine bay, is on the back left of the engine. It's quite noisy and came on suddenly. It goes through phases of volume, sometimes it randomly goes away but the car getting hot doesn't seem to affect it.

 

First it depends how cold it gets. And whether you mind switching back to 5W-30 for winter and using say 10W-30/40 in the hot weather. It is a concern about using thicker oil in cold weather, especially unnecessarily. Weight is based on temperature so it is a serious consideration.

The reason lifters might like thicker oil is the thickness provides additional cushion against the oil leaving the lifter easily or quickly. My lifter tick is much quieter with 40W than 30W oil.
In fact I have a comparison video

If the engine can tolerate the 40W which... high mileage engines tend to be looser, I would think its okay. My LS is stated 5W-30 but I use 10W-40 for added protection of thickness against thinning out due to blow-by and high temperature associated with turbo power adder and the high mileage component probably helps. Remember the number 40W is indicated at a specific temperature and forced induction engines tend to run hotter than typical engines at high sustained output SO the thickness is welcome.
For you however it is a tough decision. I am not sure to be honest. On one hand thickness is welcome against high mileage but on the other hand, temperature is a crucial role and the thinner weight oil can flow superior at lower temperature, that could be a great thing for your engine's operating conditions and low output combined even with the high mileage. Also the older style oil pump drive or other oil orifice related features may not play well with thicker oil at low temperatures and daily driving conditions. Honestly If you are using 5W-30 and its working I would recommend keep on using it. Its tough to just arbitrarily say "use thicker oil" without really understanding all the far reaching consequences. On one hand it may be absolutely fine given the low rpm operating range and durability of the oil pump you have, but on the other hand I would just be guessing. And I Don't like to guess when its somebody elses stuff on the line.

 

Ah yeah I get what you're saying. Since I had already bought the sea foam to avoid extra trips I will try it. Shouldn't hurt anything, right? We will see if it helps. If it does then we know it was enough and it's just dirty. If not I can always give a real chemical flush a try or just go straight to valve, gasket and lifter work at home.

I also was considering liqui moly not sure if it's safe on an old car. The atf stuff sounds great but it's not designed for the engine which DOES make me very nervous. I know I keep hearing good things but I just don't know. Even with seafoam people say it's snake oil, other people recorded it actually reducing their ticking noise so Idk.

 

...And a little IPA. No, not "India Pale Ale" but isopropyl alcohol.

That's a prime reason I wouldn't advise using it to clean injectors, unless I was the guy who also happens to sell replacement injectors.

 

Why would Iso alcohol be an issue but ethanol and methanol isnt an issue? Unless you mean the old injectors can't stand alcohol fuels. But alcohol is in all gasoline now so?

https://community.cartalk.com/t/isop...ctors/175597/9
Seafoam

• Pale Oil 40.00 - 60.00 %
• Naphtha 25.00 - 35.00 %
• IPA 10.00 - 20.00 %

 

BIG update boys and gals. I brought it to multiple guys. Got directed to a guy with good reputation who works on these older cars. Three mechanics and two muffler guys say it's NOT a component in the engine and it's not exhaust. Initially this recommended dude said it could be a flex plate breaking but we checked that and it was fine. The only other thing I can think of is shot spark plugs... I realized I haven't changed them in many years since the car sat a lot. On top of that we had initially suspected a torque converter issue because at certain speeds/rpm it felt like it was letting go and recatching rapidly almost like rapid shifting. While sitting idle too it runs smooth but then has what feels like a pop out the butt without actually having a backfire sound. I spoke to my dad and did some research and spoke with mechanics at work who say it's very possible it's my plugs. Then found this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dGyqg0InKec sounds like that but quieter.

I can't do plugs myself, car won't clear my jacks/stand so I gotta bring it in for that when I get paid. Noise did get louder today.

Should also mention, when facing the engine bay the noise is in the far back left underneath. Can't hear it very well with ear on valve cover but it's loud af from the side if you put your ear in the wheel well.

 

Will it clear your jack if you take the lower air dam off? I have to do that when I lift mine front and rear.

 

No, unfortunately the trim on this car overall is too big. It's blocking all the room for the jack and our current jack won't bring it high enough in the front to put the stands under it. We pumped it all the way and the stands wouldn't clear in the spots where they are safe to put. Thankfully my car's plug don't cost too much here so it shouldn't be too big of a deal to have my usual dude do them We are definitely leaning towards a cracked plug or something. If that doesn't fix the issue then I am absolutely mind boggled. Another thing that swayed us towards plug was I contacted my transmission guy and he said it sounded more like a misfire was happening not the torque converter struggling.

 

I could not agree more!
Even GM (which rarely can come to a unanimous agreement among their Engineers) couldn't argue with this one!

 

Depending on the level of "Build-Up" found during investigation of the Oiling-System...
Run straight ATF until reaching Engine Operating Temperature, drain ATF, and repeat until relatively clean drained Fluid (hopefully seeing little clumping).

Getting a Lifter (or several) to come back from being collapsed can be difficult...
I usually "bite the bullet" and just go straight to replacing the set of Lifters when I find any collapsed.

Good Luck!

 

We're not even sure it's a lifter tick anymore. Already ran cleaner check the previous posts.

 

King - It's not the IPA from "SeaFoam" which is a concern for the injectors, but the added WATER. Fuel injectors typically have a low tolerance for any water.

Ask anyone with a diesel (not one of those wannbe light duty diesels, but a REAL diesel engine) why there is a water separator in the system. It will eat HP injectors and an injector pump in no time.

 

But what makes you think the IPA is going to contain water any more than ethanol fuel from a gasoline pump? I don't think its supposed to be in there, it just absorbs water if exposed to the air. I doubt seafoam actually contains much if any water except for what is absorbed from the air like with gasoline E10 or E85 or whatever. DO you really think theres water in it? I just don't know but it would seem strange to me considering they say you can pour it into fuel and oil. Oil I get it would evaporate quickly but fuel... yeah You don't want water in fuel thats for sure. Hmm although with E10 and E85 etc... the water can be absorbed up to a certain point before separation. There is always a little water in E10 and E85 fuels, from the air. It doesn't seem to cause some issue unless it separates at high concentration.

 

Ethanol (and even more so Methanol) is far more Hygroscopic than E10 Gasoline (actual Gasoline being Hydrophobic)...
And IPA is considered to be the most Hygroscopic out of the Alcohols.

During the day in the Pits...
You can actually watch my 55Gal Drum of Methanol in the Trailer, rise in level from the Water pulled from the Atmosphere.

 

As a chemist, biologist, researcher I work with 100% alcohol on a daily basis and well aware of it's properties. The mass of water vapor available to E85 in a fuel tank is the same as if you pour a bottle of Seafoam into the gas tank, same tank same water molar mass in the air, and the E85 has far more alcohol in it than a bottle of seafoam mixed with E10 fuel would have, therefore E85 is far more hygroscopic than E10 + seafoam, even considering some increased affinity via IPA, so I don't see any issue with the seafoam and water by inspection. Unless the seafoam literally contains water which I have no idea if it does or not. That seems weird to me.

 

I do not see an issue with the Seafoam either.

 

I have heard how adding a Solvent (to form an Azeotrope with the Water) to Alcohols to bring them closer to 100%...
More so anyway than the 94 - 95 Percent attainable via Distillation.

I always found the process very interesting.
I want to cry every time the Methanol (supposed to be 99.5%) percent drops on the Hydrometer.

 

Just my 2 cents.

I've been using Seafoam for decades as a fuel stabilizer. Back when no one heard of it and you could get it for $1.99 per can. I've also gotten various field/barn finds running with the stuff. I always have a can or two in the garage.

 

Pretty sure you can distill to 98.5% to 99.5%~~~ azeotrope its just very difficult, not normal distillation. We buy it pure... non denatured

I use it for cancer research, dehydrate clinical tissue samples, and cancer grown from incubator on a decellularized matrix to study cancer marker, cut 5uM on microtome.
I do alot of immunohistochemistry, alcian blue, hematoxylin, etc

 

Wow Nice!


Then Sir, I would very much like to Thank You for your working contributions to such a cause.
Cancer brings about far too much pain to our World.
Even if only a very small amount of your work revolves around Cancer Research...
It is very much worth it!


Thanks to the many individuals like yourself, that work in the many fields of Cancer Research...
Time (which is one of the most valuable resources) even the slightest bit more time, can be given to those Individuals and their Families that must suffer Cancer.
Thank you very much.

 

The MSDS/CAS for "Seafoam" at last check was shown here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...am-mobile.html

Watered-down refinery byproducts in the intake is one thing. Into the crankcase is a completely different scenario, just as putting nitrous oxide into a patient's lungs is one thing, whereas putting it into an artery is a completely different thing.

And for the biochemical crowd, we need to realize that since 1976, motive fuel systems have been engineered to contain and isolate vapors, thus limiting the interface between atmospheric moisture and the fuel tank. Adsorption is nothing like a pre-1980's vehicle in a ThirdGen F-body. Let's not even get into the 300-post thread about resurrecting "barn-finds" and abandoned equipment. I might just win that one, complete with photos, data, and details.

I'd have to side with the other curmudgeon, Sofa, and advise anyone to adhere to the proven methods, and save the Seafoam for starting campfires.

 

Seafoam didn't. I am still trying to find the source of this noise. Not flexplate, not lifter, not exhaust. Trying plugs mine haven't been done in like 8+ years. Car sat a lot.

 

Without disassembly for further analysis, it could be very difficult to isolate the cause of the noise. Pulling the rocker covers could be a bit messy, but very revealing.

 

need more ideas?
A video of it running and driving and idling and stuff would help everyone here diagnose
try a stheoscope from harbor freight tools very cheap effective
Try removing the accessory belt for a minute of run-time to eliminate accy noises
look for rotating bolts touching stuff as they pass, bolts sticking out front and back
feel for exhaust leaks while engine is cold so you can literally touch exhaust parts to feel for leaks
perform compression test and pull valve covers looking for out of adjustment cam related stuff

 

So, I have a video. Apparently I can't upload it because mp4 is not a supported file type?? Lol.

I will say this though, I am not going to drive it. The noise isn't just a clean light ticking anymore. It's quite loud and sloppy and I am hearing new noises since having the exhaust redone. I am almost wondering if it's the Torque converter or loose bolts around it. If that's the case the constant exhaust work I've had done coulda bumped it around if it was already loose. The car is too low for me to get under it but the noise is definitely most audible below the engine not up by the valve covers. It's loud with my ear near the right wheel well but insanely loud under the car right behind it. I also used a mechanic's stethoscope and we couldn't hear the ticking very well with it on the engine, but lower it was louder.

 

Here we go! IT'S LOUD CARE! I had to re-record the video saved on my pc using OBS. You can hear the kind of airy tapping noise, then it turns into a weird sloppy slap xD

 

123456 123456 123456 123456 ... was the idle rpm 720rpm? Because 720/60/2 = 6 times per second, definitely valvetrain related as it spins half the speed of the crankshaft
Also narrows it down to a single valvetrain component I guess.

Is it getting louder? any performance issue? Is it a performance engine? Stock cam stock lifters?

If it isn't getting louder and no issue with the driving/performance/compression test I would not mess with it until something actually happens.

If you are using 10w-30 right now try 10W-40 and see if the tick gets quieter. I am not saying leave the 10W-40 in the engine, only to test it and see, won't hurt it for a simple test. You can go right back to the 10w-30 after if you want or if its cold out or whatever.
That would be a solid indication that it is indeed a lifter tick. Not much else can quiet down just from viscosity at half engine speed rotation.

 

720 no. It idles higher than that on initial startup. I am 99% sure my IAC KEEPS going bad and it's pissing me off honestly. Everytime I have it replaced it idles smooth and low even on initial startup, then shortly after it gets crazy again. The sound is specifically in the back left of the engine underneath. The sound gets sloppy after a while, I just had 5w-30 synthetic put in, it's what was recommended for my car both on the info for the car and online as well at the auto parts. I have tried heavier oil and seafoam. Didn't seem to matter. Stock everything in there. The car is not running well. Also, the 305's don't have typical valve trains do they? I thought it was a different setup with the rocker arms, push rods etc. I tried googling a valve train and nothing came up but I suck at Google somehow lol.

At 21 rpm and 10, around 30 mph and 72 mphish it starts to, I think the best way to describe is, it feels like the tranny is shifting rapidly but I was told that could be a misfire or torque converter. Monday we are doing my plugs/wires I haven't had them done in 11 years ( I KNOW THAT'S BAD! Car sat a long time). I will say noise got a lot louder when bringing it home from the exhaust guy when he redid my entire exhaust (minus manifolds). Wasn't sure if he bumped something loose. The shifting in it seems delayed too but my tranny was rebuilt 50k ago so we were thinking torque converter. My two guys I brought it to said upon listening they didn't think it was a component inside the engine but I don't know anymore.

 

I thought you didn the plugs alrdy lets see how that goes

 

Do you think it's worth the money on the plugs? It's scheduled for Monday. I am worried about driving it because of the change in the sound. It's definitely louder and less rhythmic, I was worried about driving it in case it was the torque converter. I have a rebuilt tranny I don't want to devastate. Mechanic is in town should I tow or drive?

 

plugs are like $25, its worth doing it yourself and learning how to work on your own car, don't rely on other people. Beyond that, I can't help you I never let anybody touch anything of mine, ever. I see what happens when other people do stuff to vehicles that aren't theirs.

I would recommend do a complete tune up all at once
Air filter
plugs
plug wires
plug wire sheaths
cap / rotor /whatever
injector cleaner for good measure

Before the tune up, always
Wash the engine bay, wash by hand with towels and simple green inch by inch, use a pick and screw driver to remove all stuck in grease and dirt, it will take 3 to 8 hours if you do correctly.
Wash the hood clean enough to eat off the underside
Wash all hoses, replace hoses, check for cracks and wear where you cant replace, grease them up with WD40 after the wash
put WD40 on all metal objects, bolts, rubber, just put it on almost everything in the engine bay to protect it

 

Good advice, and if it is more heavily soiled with crust, follow the previous advice to apply engine degreaser (essentially diesel fuel) and use a moderate-pressure spray to remove the majority, After that, further detail cleaning as the King suggested will at least make it more pleasant to work on, and may reveal otherwise invisible problems.

And if your hood still has the compressed fiberglass mat (insulator) stuck to the underside, you may want to be careful about cleaning that. Mine is still intact after 35 years due to keeping it mostly dry and not abrading it,

 

I can't wait to see what this noise is. I've been chasing something similar but it doesn't seem to hurt the engine, soooooooo...

 

We've done everything except the plugs/wires. I normally do my own spark plugs in my car however our new jack is smaller than our last and won' raise the car enough to clear our stands so I can't get underneath the car anymore. I will probably buy some drive on stands or something.

 

It's not easy, but if the stock exhaust is still present, they can all be had from the top.

 

Hah yeah. I Literally build my cars around plug access, do everything, cut anything, weld whatever it takes, make dents, custom exhaust, easy to remove shields, etc.... just so I can change all the plugs from the top in 30 minutes. Won't drive anything unless it can be done so.


A component of engine mechanical mastery is framework features allowing easy plug access,
Along pathway to engine tuning mastery is knowledge which allows us to rarely need plug access

 

This is off topic, but do you guys have any idea what the trim on the side is called? The one that goes along the side of the car beneath the door? Mine cracked and wanted to replace it.

 

While we're on the topic of Seafoam. You guys ever watch this Project Farm guy? Lots of interesting experiments.

 

Below the door is the rocker panel. For cars without a ground effects package, there is an optional plain rocker molding (unless you're in England, where is is a moulding).

For cars with the ground effects package, there is a contoured urethane piece covering everything from the fender wheel opening to the quarter panel wheel opening, and bonded to the rocker panel. There is a mating section bonded to the lower portion of the door.

 

I think mine is a moulding. It's a long strip that is held on via nuts and bolts. Well y'all... Spark plugs gave her good power again but the ticking is still getting noticeably worse. We made an appointment with the guy who rebuilt my tranny some years ago, it does still feel like rapid shifting at certain rpm so we are pretty sure the torque converter is shot. It's not even old yet, has 60ish thou on it. Making funny noises and whatnot. The ticking is just so loud underneath the car. The guy said he would diagnose it, if it's engine we will replace it later if it's torque we will fix it asap. I will say doing spark plugs made the engine a lot smoother sounding too