383 guys/what oil pan are you using?
#1
383 guys/what oil pan are you using?
Are you using the stock pan without any problems or are you using an aftermarket pan?What did you do clearance wise for the pan?
I'm using Eagle 6" H-beam rods that are stroker clearanced i just want to see if there is any problems with the pan clearance.......Oh yeah,this is for a 1 piece rear seal.......
I'm using Eagle 6" H-beam rods that are stroker clearanced i just want to see if there is any problems with the pan clearance.......Oh yeah,this is for a 1 piece rear seal.......
#2
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Jt let me tell yeah be sure ya got clearance because its apain in the a-- to change the pain with the motor in the car. I used my stock pan just clearenced it. i ordered the moroso for third gens but the windage tray kept me from using it the only benefit from the moroso pan was oil capacity. mike
#5
JT, for what it's worth, I built a 383 (2 Pc. Seal) and went with the Milodon Pan MIL-30900 ($130) along with the required Milodon Pick-Up MIL-18314 ($35).
I put a lot of money in this build and I am happy with it. The extra Oil capacity gives me a measure of comfort.
Sounds like you made up your mind already and I'm not trying to influence you either way, just simply an answer to your quetion.
I put a lot of money in this build and I am happy with it. The extra Oil capacity gives me a measure of comfort.
Sounds like you made up your mind already and I'm not trying to influence you either way, just simply an answer to your quetion.
#6
Originally posted by Changa2
JT, for what it's worth, I built a 383 (2 Pc. Seal) and went with the Milodon Pan MIL-30900 ($130) along with the required Milodon Pick-Up MIL-18314 ($35).
JT, for what it's worth, I built a 383 (2 Pc. Seal) and went with the Milodon Pan MIL-30900 ($130) along with the required Milodon Pick-Up MIL-18314 ($35).
#7
I just checked the Summit catalog and it is a 7 quart pan and for my 2-piece it describes it as 'Driverside dipstick, pre 1980'.
BTW, I had no clearance problems with the pan.
They also list MIL-30902 described as 'Pass. side dipstick, 1986 to present', $150 and you will need the extended pick-up MIL-18314 $35, that is used with the SBC oil pump. If by chance you are using the BB oil pump, as some guys do, then it's MIL-18301 $35.
Sounds to me that this fits your application. If you are interested I would suggest that you call Summit (1-800-230-3030) and verify what I said, just to be sure.
Aside from the comfort factor they also look great (Gold iridated) plus you get a 'Milodon' sticker.
Good luck on whatever you decide.
BTW, I had no clearance problems with the pan.
They also list MIL-30902 described as 'Pass. side dipstick, 1986 to present', $150 and you will need the extended pick-up MIL-18314 $35, that is used with the SBC oil pump. If by chance you are using the BB oil pump, as some guys do, then it's MIL-18301 $35.
Sounds to me that this fits your application. If you are interested I would suggest that you call Summit (1-800-230-3030) and verify what I said, just to be sure.
Aside from the comfort factor they also look great (Gold iridated) plus you get a 'Milodon' sticker.
Good luck on whatever you decide.
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#10
I reused my stock oil pan when I built my 383. I also reused the stock rods (reconditioned & resized) and had to "dimple" the outer edge of the oil pan in a few places. It was really no big deal, and took about 15 minutes to do. I also have the SLP 1 & 3/4" headers, and had no clearance problems.
By the way, just in case you haven't heard or read this on the board - be aware of the metal shim inside the GM oil pan gasket. When you torque the oil pan down and compress the gasket, that shim can contact some of the rods (if they are close), and it will sound just like a rod hitting the pan. This happened on my engine. All it took was a quick touch with a dremel tool on the gasket shim to remedy the problem.
Good luck with your build up.
By the way, just in case you haven't heard or read this on the board - be aware of the metal shim inside the GM oil pan gasket. When you torque the oil pan down and compress the gasket, that shim can contact some of the rods (if they are close), and it will sound just like a rod hitting the pan. This happened on my engine. All it took was a quick touch with a dremel tool on the gasket shim to remedy the problem.
Good luck with your build up.
#11
Originally posted by Mike Crews
By the way, just in case you haven't heard or read this on the board - be aware of the metal shim inside the GM oil pan gasket. When you torque the oil pan down and compress the gasket, that shim can contact some of the rods (if they are close), and it will sound just like a rod hitting the pan. This happened on my engine. All it took was a quick touch with a dremel tool on the gasket shim to remedy the problem.
Good luck with your build up.
By the way, just in case you haven't heard or read this on the board - be aware of the metal shim inside the GM oil pan gasket. When you torque the oil pan down and compress the gasket, that shim can contact some of the rods (if they are close), and it will sound just like a rod hitting the pan. This happened on my engine. All it took was a quick touch with a dremel tool on the gasket shim to remedy the problem.
Good luck with your build up.
#12
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Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Why buy such an expensive aftermarket oil pan?? I picked up my 6 quart chrome oil pan brand new for $25 and with the perma dry one piece rubber oil pan gasket I have no leaks at all.
#13
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I reused the stock pan off the original 305 motor that came in my 78 Malibu before I dropped in the 383. No clearance problems whatsoever.
It seems to be clerance problems pop up most often when using aftermarket rods. Stock rods with stock-sized rod bolts clear a stock pan just fine almost every time.
It seems to be clerance problems pop up most often when using aftermarket rods. Stock rods with stock-sized rod bolts clear a stock pan just fine almost every time.
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