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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
well i kinda accepted the fact my buddy is screwing me over and hes not gonna do my turbo kit. so my other buddy came over and offered to help. so were both gonna try adn build it then im going to have my other buddy (that works with the one that doesnt wanna do it) to final weld everything.
on another note since i aint got much to do i decided to clean up the interior a little and realized i dont really have any pics of the whole interior. some day ill get a dash pad shipped to me that doesnt get bent in half during shipping and ill have a clean dash. also looking for OEM style gray floor mats if anyone knows of any for a decent price. hit me up.
Well I finished the new carpet install...5 days later. I knew it would take awhile especially because I clean and paint stuff before I reassemble but man this has kicked my *** and my back! I treated any of the surface rust, repainted those areas and did some sound deadening on the trans tunnel, rocker panels and the back behind the rear panels. I also reused some of my old padding and laid it down in between the ribs on the floor for double padding in the low areas. I pre cut the new carpet using the old as a template. I still had to start at the front and work my way to the rear and trim it out. Funny thing is once you put the interior back in and the 4 floor mats down it covers up pretty much 80% of the new carpet. I do like the smell of the new carpet! It fills my whole garage.
well finally towed my car to the original buddies shop. made a spot in his shop and one of my other buddies that works for him should be doin the work pretty soon. in between production stuff. only thing is i went a little hot driving up the flatbed and cracked the paint on the lip but its aight cause the cars gonna get painted eventually.
got a great deal on a strange 12 bolt, torque arm, panhard, lca's, and 4" magnaflow exhaust. man i cant wait to put this stuff in. gotta clean up the diff, put new fluid, rotors, pads. sell off the panhard and lca's since i have a brand new set.
how the literal F U C K do you find stuff like this? let me guess,commiefornia right ?? sometimes i wish i lived in a state that had the population of my entire country thats bigger than the entire usa.but then i would have to live in an area compounded with an EXTREME multitude of idiots so i guess the tradeoff is worth it.
lol well its kinda funny. a buddy bought another buddies build. they posted the stuff up for sale. i didnt think i could get it cause they were asking more than i had. i was joking around with another buddy and he said he'd spot me so. so he talked to our buddy that was parting out the car and since they knew each other a little better he gave him a great deal. so in turns i got all that for $2k. lol
oh and lol on the commifornia having deals. hell nah. every other state but here has deals.
i dont know,having a massive population base and tons of car enthusiasts all in one state is a bonus.cars and parts you get for $2000 would be triple that in Canada easily.that 12 bolt would easily be $2500+ of not more....i paid a grand for a torque arm like yours,with the mount and loop,a adjustable panhard and sub frame connectors(THEY WERE ALL NEW BUT UNUSED,CAR WAS ROTTEN SO THE GUY SOLD THE PARTS)parts from summit that are $200 usd are damned near $400 to my door,so lets say double for arguments sake.
yeah,some states seem to have good deals,just not a lot of them.canada has jack S H I T for good deals unless you have a magic horseshoe
i ve bought 2 stupid clean un cracked camaro dash pads from canada for $110 shipped each but UPS decided they were too nice to give to me un damaged. so ended up getting 2 cracked up dash pads. one was practically bent in half.
ive had 4 camaro's in canada(and two firebirds) over the last 25 years or so and they all had perfect dash pads.ive honestly never seen a cracked one.must be the cali/arizona heat that destroys them? maybe get the shipper to throw it in a guitar case,they cant be easily bent and you can find them reasonably cheap.just a thought,i play guitar and they ship them all over and they stay together.i know i would be pissed right off if they bent one but i guess there isnt much you can do unless the shipment is guarenteed
yeah think its the heat. i woulda at least put the side of the box with a thin strip of wood to keep it from bending but thats just me. next one i probably buy if i cant fix one of them will be through a decent company that i know knows how to ship
...parts from summit that are $200 usd are damned near $400 to my door, so lets say double for arguments sake....Canada has jack S H I T for good deals unless you have a magic horseshoe
Pretty close. Check out the Summit price in USD then double that in CDN funds delivered to your door.
I had a heyday when my racing buddy was working in Chicago and back then the Canadian dollar was a buck three to the US greenback. I'd drive down once or twice a year with my van and load it to the gunnels with car stuff. It was awesome.
As for deals, out here we've got JB's Power Centre, which by my accounting, has some pretty decent pricing. At one time, my Ontario buddy was ordering from them and killing any US mail order deal. Even with shipping. But a 30% premium on the dollar can do that.
Originally Posted by 1986BANDIT
I've had 4 Camaros in Canada (and two firebirds) over the last 25 years or so and they all had perfect dash pads. I've honestly never seen a cracked one. Must be the cali/arizona heat that destroys them?
Originally Posted by Swapper
yeah think its the heat.
I've had more than a couple of Camaros during my time in Ontario. The latest Coupe, from Virginia, had a perfect dash pad when purchased and for several years after I had it home. It wasn't until I moved to Alberta and the first winter in an unheated garage destroyed it. Literally. Extreme cold and no humidity. I was advised by one of the local car guys (who buys and sells literally hundreds of F-body's annually) that it's best to remove the pad and bring it indoors for the winter. Wish I had known that before my dash went to *****.
Not saying the heat doesn't kill them, but the cold did mine in. Stupid winter.
i guess the lack of ultra cold winters helps too.it hasn't been much below zero in the last while in Ontario and is always kind of damp,hovering around zero.i had a belinetta i daily drove for 10 years all year and the dash was perfect in that car too.wish i still had that one,had like 40,000 km when i bought it.i went out to buy a winter car to store it first year and came home with a 72 chevelle accidentally so that sealed the belinettas fate,lol...
heres both,back in 2002-3
i miss the 6 car driveway and the neighbors mint 5 speed 90 formula 5 speed i used to borrow all the time.i let him use an iroc i had back then,fun times....that kid is now a 22 year old woman
im guessing you have a **** ton of disposable income ,wow........the frequency of me buying stuff for my car is semi annually as in maybe twice a year.the idiots at work
f u c k e d up and didn't take enough tax off (i get extra taken off so i always get money back) and instead of getting 3-4k i got $300.00 which went on dealing with my daily driver so i ended up getting nothing for my trans am this past year then ,my hours were cut because "covid" then i didn't get a raise because "covid" and now that the tax deduction rate has been fixed ill still get less money " because OF f u c k i n g covid "even though i never stopped working since this **** began.the other issue is having a family of 4 adults/parasites but none of them work other than me so im F u c k ed AND HAVE ESSENTIALLY ZERO DISPOSABLE INCOME EVER....
Cut the trans cooler line to the old radiator and pulled the radiator to make way for a new one. One problem: one of the last owners looked like they severely damaged the a/c condenser in front of it. So it looks like I’m gonna have to buy a new one.
washed this strange thing (gonna paint it tomorrow), boxes of parts from summit showed up but cant install since car is at the shop. dropped the 4" exhaust off at the shop.
i think theres a couple already but when i get around to it ill try. my car is finally at the shop to get the turbo kit built but this dude takes forever so itll be a little while.
had some time at work and a extra radio bezel so made a quick plate to mount the controls. gonna spray it with some wrinkle paint and figure out different screws. maybe some of the factory little black screws. i dont wanna rivet it cause i wanna be able to remove it. my double din radio fits weird in my double din bezel.
had some time at work and a extra radio bezel so made a quick plate to mount the controls. gonna spray it with some wrinkle paint and figure out different screws. maybe some of the factory little black screws. i dont wanna rivet it cause i wanna be able to remove it. my double din radio fits weird in my double din bezel.
You could make the plate larger and have the screws behind the face plate like the original.
I know some people put some gauges in that area and also toggle switches. I might do that one day. For mine I just built a small box/compartment that I put my cell phone and wallet into. I would like to put in two small gauges one day though.
Last edited by IROCZman15; 01-13-2021 at 07:15 PM.
hmm i like the pocket idea. maybe ill make a pocket and move the a/c controls into the ash tray area since there will be no dang smoking in my car. luckily the controls are compact.
I can get ya some tomorrow for sure. I also flipped the bezel because I never liked how the stereo was way low. I'll grab a pic tomorrow and I'll edit it into this post
took this photo today, minutes before I re-did the toggle switches in the ash tray. (re-located the 2-step button).
sorry for the glare/flash, it was dark in the cabin when i took the photos real quick.
Last edited by IROCZman15; 01-14-2021 at 10:15 PM.
I had a spring break on the way back home from the track last Saturday night, so im trying to figure out how and why. Measured 1.750”, LT1 heads, 1.6 rr, hardened pushrods, .544 lift nothing crazy.
well not my car but still a 3rd gen. finally pulled the engine out of my buddies 91 so we can swap in the ls1 i pulled out for him a year ago. needs a bit of work but since my car is stuck and i dont have anything to work on i guess ill work on his. lol
side note the drivetrain is for sale. harness is eh cause rats got to it but has the ecu. engine is a 305 that smoked quite a bit. trans is a recently rebuilt world class t5. so if your in the socal area and need any of it let me know and ill let him know.
I had a spring break on the way back home from the track last Saturday night, so im trying to figure out how and why. Measured 1.750”, LT1 heads, 1.6 rr, hardened pushrods, .544 lift nothing crazy.
But do you have the additional retainer-to-seal clearance, AND the coil bind clearance, AND rocker arm to edge of valve spring retainer clearance, AND clearance in the rocker slot for the polylock? ANY interference can cause a spring to break.
But do you have the additional retainer-to-seal clearance, AND the coil bind clearance, AND rocker arm to edge of valve spring retainer clearance, AND clearance in the rocker slot for the polylock? ANY interference can cause a spring to break.
All of that was supposed to have been checked by the machine shop that assembled the heads.
I am not sure what you mean by “clearance in the rocker slot for the polylock”. What am I looking for? It seems to be working fine and adjusts and locks fine like normal stock rocker/nut would.
The rocker should be clearing the retainer, I found no evidence of rubbing or paint missing on the rockers/damage to them or the retainers and ive ran it for a few months before I took it to the track and re-inspected it when i took off the rockers again, so this should be a non issue but i havent actually measured it yet, though. I can stick a feeler gauge in them later today, though and give you an exact number... i just didnt think it was necessary since there was no physical damage or evidence after running it for so long to work, etc.
Coil bind is the only thing I have not checked, but before I measure that I intend on actually understanding what coil bind is.
Isnt that the clearance of the individual coils at full lift? Cant i just stick a .060” feeler gauge in there and turn the motor over by hand and see if it clears the gauge?
All of that was supposed to have been checked by the machine shop that assembled the heads.
If all the machine shop did was assemble your heads, and not the long block, then there is no way he could have checked all those clearances. Therefore YOU are the one that needs to actually MEASURE.
Installed my Retrosound "New York" head unit, 99% happy with it, few things I think they could've done but overall I'm pleased with it. Prefer it a hell of a lot more than a modern deck with the 3rd gen specific mounting plate.
so seeing how i screwed up the first version but learned from it i decided to make version 2 with my stock hood. hopefully this one comes out alot better. this one follows the hood lines better and is a bit longer so the drop down should look alot cleaner. only problem is i gotta get it on the car again to figure out how much of a drop down i can do. but car is stuck at the fab shop until he finishes it. good thing is hes finally been doing work on the other junks he has to finish before he gets to mine.
All of that was supposed to have been checked by the machine shop that assembled the heads.
If all the machine shop did was assemble your heads, and not the long block, then there is no way he could have checked all those clearances. Therefore YOU are the one that needs to actually MEASURE.
This actually helps alot. I am going to screenshot your post and do the work as soon as I get new springs in.
I wasn’t the one who assembled the long block unfortunately, either. At the time I lived in an apartment. Im looking at these springs here:
Last edited by dereklicon; 01-22-2021 at 09:35 AM.
Do those Bullet springs match your camshaft?
You should be looking to set installed height at or near 1.800". Your valve lift is, call it .550. Which means you will compress that spring down to 1.250 if installed at 1.800. How far away is coil bind? Next check would be bottom of retainer-to-valve-seal clearance
Before buying springs, you have to decide how you are going to get that 1.800 - longer valves, increased height retainers, + valve locks, or a combination of the 3 choices.
i got pulled over last week for no tag light, i went to change the bulb today and when i was removing the screws that hold the housing to the bumper it broke an ear off the housing. i changed the bulb and its hanging there so i wont get pulled over again. i put some epoxy on the housing and hope to reinstall it tomorrow.
the machine shop called after 4 months and said my shortblock is ready. i need to take him the cm plate. he said he was able to degree the cam with a plate he had but i need to take mine with me when i pick it up so he can swap it. im pretty excited about the motor. its my first full performance build.
went to the shop 1. because they were BBQ'n and 2. needed to change out my junk summit fuel pressure regulator for a deatschwerks one. its a bit smaller then the summit one which was nice so i can have a little more clearance with my hood. fired it up, set it to 60psi idle and got yelled at cause they needed to hear the cnc machines. lol.
first pic was before i set the pressure and wasnt running.
bought a working cargo cover then realized on the way home that im doing a roll bar so it wont work. either way i dyed it and ill probably use it until i get the cage in. won a overhead console that im hoping to do some custom stuff to. adding some LED strips and hoping to mount my holley 3.5" screen up there since i dont really need to see it.got some custom badges in the work. think im digging the black background ones more.
Having replaced my fuel filter for the first time( I know, I KNOW!), I thought I would cut it open to see how MUCH load i’d been putting on my fuel pump...
This thing wouldn’t even allow LIGHT to pass through it- CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER!!
O'Reilly looked at the picture in their database and told me the heater core had the swivel joints, so I was glad when this is what was actually in the box. But I still have the original brass one!
Yes, we had a good drive. I spent a couple months of occasional nights & weekends on "preemptive" maintenance, and then convoyed with my wife in her CRV, and our 19yo drove with our 16yo in his Civic. We spent the night in Phoenix and the next night in Gallup.
Edit: I didn't keep careful track of it, but I probably got 24+ mpg.
Last edited by Moonlight137; 04-08-2021 at 08:02 AM.
you got a modern 3 cylinder and 10 speed auto in your camaro? 28 mpg?? what? even my 2016 4 cylinder doesn't get mileage that good.<<<<(i do this quite often though)
i guess 2.73 granny gears ,all highway driving keeping it at 1200 rpm and a 700r4 really help but having driven a 2.73 rear 305 camaro for 10 years i dont remember ever getting 28 mpg .nice!!
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; 04-07-2021 at 02:38 PM.
12-27-2020, 05:52 PM
<<<<(i do this quite often though)