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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
but this is a383 stroker monza,updated rear,reworked/tied frame ,updated suspension/brakes in the front from a late 90s s10......
i know the 4 cylinder cars were horrid,slow ,didn't stop well and rotted badly etc .what was it that you didn't like and what did you like.
give me a reason why you disliked it,or reasons.....
i drove a chevette for many of my teen years and i really liked it besides it being severely under-powered .
i owned a 4 cylinder iron duke camaro as well and it was one of my favorite third gens..
ive always liked smaller rwd vehicles for some reason,my first car was a 77 corolla.
These H bodies do not have ANY frame to tie together - it's all unibody.
Unless this car has an actual fabricated chassis under it, I would pass.
These cars also came with 13" wheels. Traction should be a real problem for this car.
What are you going to do about that - upgrade to 15"? You are limited by the wheelwells, unless they have been enlarged.
I also like the smallish car with too much power thing - it's just almost useless in this case.
This car won't do anything well. Leave it to being a track car.
the frame has been upgraded/fabricated,frame rails run front to back and tied side to side .it was run at the track and then the cage removed.it has 15" on it already on the converted rear end,5x4 3/4 pattern and i would do the s10 mod(s10 spindles instantly fix the braking issue,the 4 bolt pattern issue and install with two smallish sleeves to adapt to the h-body ball joints)if i decide to do this.im on the fence and not totally 100% but a big vega/monza/chevette fan.its just a thought at this point.
A 75 Monza you say? In the 70's, late 70's obviously and into the 80's, that car was the target of pretty fast V8 swaps. Or replacements if they were V8 factory pieces.
Pro Stock.
Monza body kits.
Now, as cool as they look, and by the way, if the 2+2 you're talking about has the raised roofline for rear passengers, to me, the whole style went out the window, you have to consider what you're buying.
When I see this...
Originally Posted by 1986BANDIT
but this is a383 stroker monza,updated rear,reworked/tied frame ,updated suspension/brakes in the front from a late 90s s10......
...I immediately think back to my close relationship with a chassis/hot rod shop I was involved with back in my Ontario days. Almost everything single car that came in, that had the above mentioned mods done by another shop, had to be cut up because the workmanship was so bad, there was no place to start making the POS drivable. Let alone race.
So Bandit, as cool as it may seem, buyer beware.
PS. Long live the Chevette! I drove two separate versions for a total of nearly one million kilometres! 500k on the newly purchased 86 Scooter (in 1985) and another 375+k on the Pontiac version. But I wouldn't recommend the V8 approach to either of them.
its the same body style as the denso and the pro stock above.the mods in question i have yet to see.im very torn.
the drummer from my old bands brother ran a 9 second chevette,just a mild 454 but damned if that wasnt fun....
if its a grinding sort of noise emanating from the rear end that increases with rpm and seems to fade slightly then come back depending on speed ,chances are possible its a chipped/broken ring gear.i just went through this last year with my car.i did the swap this spring,what a joy that was working alone,being old and having a tiny garage.i checked everything,changed the driveshaft completely and it was still there.i finally and regretfully pulled the cover off the rear end and lo and behold an entire tooth was missing from the ring gear.luckily i parted a car out and had a complete 9 bolt set aside so i examined the 9 bolt rear end,bead blasted ,painted added the new umi torque arm and mount and installed it.
out with the old,broken 10 bolt in with the new(er) not broken 9 bolt.
maybe you will be lucky and all it is will be u-joints.thats what i was hoping for but my luck,no so good.
After years of sitting, month or two of tinkering, and today being my 44th birthday decided it was time for this thing to make a few laps!!
Outside, total 20 footer lol And good dismantle and clean of the interior and what a difference it makes!! Looking much better!! Needs some touch up and clear coat
Meant to also add that “what I did this day” besides drive it was install the OER R15 replica wheels. Things fit great and it sure sets the car off if you ask me. Not to mention how differently the car feels and drives with those 275’s. Damn
Finally sorted out my rear pull down motor issues. Took it out for a ride and now I believe a U Joint is failing.
I had been messing with this on mine as well. What a headache and still not fixed. Gonna need to get a kit from TDS and be done with it. What a terrible weak design if you ask me
Fortunately its not a grinding noise. More of a loose metal part banging noise. I am 85% sure its a u-joint. Hopefully will get it fixed today. If not by the weekend and will update. thanks!
I had been messing with this on mine as well. What a headache and still not fixed. Gonna need to get a kit from TDS and be done with it. What a terrible weak design if you ask me
It is a lousy design for sure. I have serviced it in the past and dont remember it being so frustrating. A should out to Firebirddude142 for sending my a replacement motor. I took the whole thing apart about 5 times before I got it right. Even still, the truck release button works, but the release mechanism does not. So its not 100% yet.
It is a lousy design for sure. I have serviced it in the past and dont remember it being so frustrating. A should out to Firebirddude142 for sending my a replacement motor. I took the whole thing apart about 5 times before I got it right. Even still, the truck release button works, but the release mechanism does not. So its not 100% yet.
This will be my third time messing with this one. Haven’t spent a dime on it yet just trying to use parts on hand. I’m think I’ll justify buying the kit and hopefully put it to rest for good. Been a problem since I bought it lol
mine went out,i made it manual and has been perfect ever since.those idiotic things arent worth the headache.ive learned how to close my hatch properly,i dont let anyone else touch it.
got my fancy boi cts-v3 heat extractor vent. now gotta measure, cut, fab some brackets and hopefully itll be good to go. also got a bigger clutch reservior. put my trans back in they day after i pulled it out.
This will be my third time messing with this one. Haven’t spent a dime on it yet just trying to use parts on hand. I’m think I’ll justify buying the kit and hopefully put it to rest for good. Been a problem since I bought it lol
I hear you. The parts that go are the clear plastic housing and the teflon sliders. They can be a pain to put on and make stay in place as you put it in the bracket. A bit of grease to hold the helps.
Not sure why my release button clicks from the dash but doesnt release the trunk lid. Tried making some adjustments but didnt help.
I hear you. The parts that go are the clear plastic housing and the teflon sliders. They can be a pain to put on and make stay in place as you put it in the bracket. A bit of grease to hold the helps.
Not sure why my release button clicks from the dash but doesnt release the trunk lid. Tried making some adjustments but didnt help.
Ive been trying to make one assembly work out of two complete assemblies I had. The parts you mention, yep garbage. One of my clear housings was decent so I reinforced it with some epoxy, went decent. Had set of slides that were good. I must have installed them incorrectly as it didn’t really want to slide properly or I put too much grease to hold them in place. Upon pulling them back out to check a couple of them broke upon coming out. I suppose if it had worked it wouldn’t have for long. Last time I installed one I had complete button would also click from dash but I was getting nothing in the rear of the car. Both motors worked checked them on the bench. Figured I’ll get the kit and get the assembly functional then go from there. Will be so nice to set the hatch in the switch and watch it pull down and seal like it’s supposed to lol
Well in strange stroke of luck I was reinstalling the original spare and inflator and realized I was missing the anchor and wing but assembly. After searching high and low decided to open the hatch of my T/A and see if I may miraculously find it in there, or maybe one from that car. Then got to thinking that while my hatch had not been working in that car I decided to pull the rear cover off and have a look. Amazingly enough I found a completely intact pull down unit. Unplugged all the wires, swapped it over to the Formula, hooked it up and sprayed some silicone spray on slides for good measure. At first I was getting nothing, then remembered I had taken out a few fuses a long time ago. Reinstalled them hit the release switch and it was clicking. Went to the rear and depressed the switches and we had movement. Ran it up and down a few times and set the hatch in the latch and down she went. Problem solved, for now 👍🏻
did a couple things. painted my front grille opening like i usually do (need to clean the lines up a little better). need to order some mesh for the grille opening but also debating on like lighting dusting the intercooler black so it doesnt stand out as much. swapped out my clutch reservoir from my motorcycle sized one to a wilwood one. refilled the trans since the plug fell out when i was putting the trans back in and pissed out a bunch of fluid. made a template for my hood insert so just gotta line it up on the hood and cut it out. still need to get the damn tick master cylinder adjusted correctly. this thing is such a pain in the a$$. had my inspector make sure everything is goin good with the interior.
swapped out my serp belt for a 1" shorter one. installed my grille. need to drop the trans again and measure to see if i need to run a shim behind the slave cylinder. just trying to find a different jack.
1. Swapped out the factory sway bars yesterday for 36mm/23mm pieces and poly bushings from Jegs (very nice improvement in the turns).
2. Installed Jegs subframe connectors (bolted in). Feels (and sounds) much better over the crappy roads here. Big improvement.
3. Got rid of the 4.10 gears the PO installed for some 3.42s also from Jegs (at 60mph RPM went from 2350 to 1900) MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!
threw in an L-82 cam into my LG4 305,threw on a set of vortec heads,an edlebrock rpm intake and a holley 650 dp.
its a bit of a hodge podge but i think it will run alright till i can rebuild one of my 350(or 305) longblocks.
I found out my l98 350 isnt hurt like i thought it was(thought it had a piston with a hole,it luckily dooesnt)
so it will probably get built (or the L31 ) wish money would rain from the sky
yea,i don't know why i was absolutely convinced it popped through?(it did make a pop sound,maybe that's it?) weird,i thought i could poke a screwdriver
through but with the heads off there is no hole or damage even,lol.now i swapped the vortec heads over to my lg4 temporarily(god this thing is friggin slow)
as well as a L-82 cam so i can enjoy driving the car while i save to be able to build a 350 PROPERLY and at least re-ring,do main bearings,rod bearings etc.
For what's worth, I was dialing in TDC on a rebuild. Same shortblock but new cam, timing cover, pointer, etc. I used the piston stop and never thought too much about it. Oddly though, after running the engine it had a new vibration that was RPM related. I couldn't figure out what the hell was going on and almost convinced myself that I had messed something up with the stop tool and all that went with it. Long story short (and it IS a long story), it turned out to be an imbalance between the engine and the torque converter. I had failed to index the two prior to disassembly and the balance was out by 120 degrees or basically one bolt hole. Remove the bolts, rotate the the TC by 120, install the bolts and test. Vibration gone. Turns out this is a service procedure in the GM manual. Go figure.
The piston stop tool was innocent!
lucky you sorted it out and didn't abort and pull the heads(like i did)
im kidding,i rushed throwing that engine together and it really wasn't ready to be built.
its all for the best anyway,now i can do it right....
lucky you sorted it out and didn't abort and pull the heads(like i did)
im kidding,i rushed throwing that engine together and it really wasn't ready to be built.
its all for the best anyway,now i can do it right....
On the contrary Bandit, not only did I pull heads, I pulled the engine and had it sent to my machinist for a balance job.
It went on from there too. Transmission. Torque converter. I think another transmission too (it's been a while). I eventually stumbled upon the cure and then much after the fact came across the tech paper from GM regarding the out of balance TC thing.
But this is the kind of ***** that happens when you take up hot rodding as a hobby.
you just made my day....so to celebrate i finally got my timing chain cover back on after the in car cam swap,i don't know if you've experienced this joyous event but its really pleasant and equal in pleasure to parachuting without a chute or high diving into an empty swimming pool.it involves semi-dropping the oil pan and coercing it to not destroy the oil pan gasket while its attached to the car then performing advanced gymnastics combined with deep yoga to slide the timing chain cover in and get it all to fit and button up.
then after patting myself on the back for a job well done .i had an epiphany.....
i realized I DIDN'T TORQUE THE CAM SPROCKET..........wow,that is so me.........
i just ran back down to the garage ,undid the timing chain cover bolts and gently tilted the cover back without removing it
then i carefully torqued the sprocket bolts and buttoned it up FOR THE SECOND TIME.
i laugh when people say "gaskets are cheap" they really arent if you need 3 sets of everything,lol.
i managed to not wreck any of the gaskets i just replaced so im happy and ready to continue..
you just made my day....so to celebrate i finally got my timing chain cover back on after the in car cam swap,i don't know if you've experienced this joyous event but its really pleasant and equal in pleasure to parachuting without a chute or high diving into an empty swimming pool.it involves semi-dropping the oil pan and coercing it to not destroy the oil pan gasket while its attached to the car then performing advanced gymnastics combined with deep yoga to slide the timing chain cover in and get it all to fit and button up.
then after patting myself on the back for a job well done .i had an epiphany.....
i realized I DIDN'T TORQUE THE CAM SPROCKET..........wow,that is so me.........
i just ran back down to the garage ,undid the timing chain cover bolts and gently tilted the cover back without removing it
then i carefully torqued the sprocket bolts and buttoned it up FOR THE SECOND TIME.
i laugh when people say "gaskets are cheap" they really arent if you need 3 sets of everything,lol.
i managed to not wreck any of the gaskets i just replaced so im happy and ready to continue..
dropped my trans again. need to measure to see if i need a shim for the slave. was getting attacked by bugs so stopped. installed my new turn signals tho. oh and finally got all my headlights.
dropped the trans yet again. this time i picked up a monster stage 3 clutch from my buddy. installed it and now i can finally disengage the clutch and the car finally goes in gear. was having an issue with the clutch not disengaging. removed the spec stage 3+ kit i had and found some issues but dont know whats causing it. im kinda thinking it is cause the hardware.
Prepping new doors for paint. Current ones on my 87 camaro are rotted out. These are from a late trans am.
Requires some modifications, but glad to have good rust free doors back on the car later.
(in black, not this purple-is colour....)
My Camaro wouldn't start, and gave me a code 53. So I found the right resistor in the garage, and built my first VATS "cheater."
EDIT: But first I stripped the wires (in the wrong place) and pinched my spare key between them to start it and drive home.
I'm trying to hold on to my illusion of security by not posting a pic of the resistor color code.
I sure appreciate these forums. I hoped it wouldn't fail, but I already knew how to fix it!
Last edited by Moonlight137; 10-22-2020 at 03:16 PM.
ended up driving the car to my work which is like a block away. test fit my hood i was building. thought it wasnt going to fit with my intake/ fuel pressure regulator setup. threw it on and itll work perfectly. so decided to continue the build of that hood. its still a work in progress. gotta find some mesh that i like for the front opening (wanna find something close to my front grille mesh)and weld in the sides. already test fit with a piece of intake i had and spaced it up enough where it wont rub. after i get it all welded up itll go to my body shop buddy for finishing and paint. debating on installign my headlight covers while its at my work. kinda worried that when it goes to have the turbo kit built theyll damage them.
still working on my hood. couldnt find a mesh that matches my front grille so just decided to do holes. found a guy on the ebays that sells stock jeep shafts for $55 shipped so got one, did a little modifying and installed it today.
Like if you've ever had this view of your 3rd gen.
And no PO hack job on mine either!
Might have saved me a few days learning how to pull it apart... But then I still wouldn't know how, come to think of it.
09-20-2020, 04:15 PM
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