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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Drove it to work for the second time in its 13-month life under my garage roof. And the speedometer quit again, so there's no realistic way to document those 45 "free" miles.
Bought a crate 350 from Precision Engines through Summit (free shipping from Summit, Precision charges $200 to ship). 373 horsepower rated. Dyno sheet shows 396.5 hp and 415 foot lbs torque. New clutch, pressure plate, t.o. bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel coming tomorrow, plan to install everything tomorrow night.
Had a local "race engine guru" build the last 350 that was in it back in 2008. Put @ 10K miles on it before it wiped a lobe on the cam a couple weeks ago. Pulled the engine, checked all numbers, heads are junk 305 heads from a late 80's f-body car. Not even Vortec heads like the guy said they were. Got reamed, lesson learned. Engine never did run that great which I've been fine with as my son has been driving it. I honestly believe the original 180 hp 305 in the car ran better than this last one. Can't wait to put ~400 hp to the tranny in a couple days!
Here's pics of car that I've posted before.
Last edited by QuentsIROC; 11-12-2019 at 12:34 PM.
Bought a crate 350 from Precision Engines through Summit (free shipping from Summit, Precision charges $200 to ship). 373 horsepower rated. Dyno sheet shows 396.5 hp and 415 foot lbs torque. New clutch, pressure plate, t.o. bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel coming tomorrow, plan to install everything tomorrow night.
Had a local "race engine guru" build the last 350 that was in it back in 2008. Put @ 10K miles on it before it wiped a lobe on the cam a couple weeks ago. Pulled the engine, checked all numbers, heads are junk 305 heads from a late 80's f-body car. Not even Vortec heads like the guy said they were. Got reamed, lesson learned. Engine never did run that great which I've been fine with as my son has been driving it. I honestly believe the original 180 hp 305 in the car ran better than this last one. Can't wait to put ~400 hp to the tranny in a couple days!
Hit two local you pull its today and picked up some nice pieces for cheap for my car.
got my hands on...
two of the air guides that sit between the radiator shroud and grill
two good factory fog light brackets with busted fog lights
two good A pillar trims to replace my warped ones
two good vertical B pillar trim finishers
found an original cigarette lighter element
took the left side headlight/fog light bezel, switch, and pigtail to have an original set up
got a replacement passenger rear truck trim panel to clean and dye/paint black to match
lastly for the Camaro I found a center console lid that I should be able to refurbish and use.
then for my 97 c1500 I found one of the under hood storage boxes, and one of those wind up fender lights you'd find in like a 88-95 TBI truck.
Got it all for $80, I'm pretty satisfied with that.
if you have the room nothing beats buying cars and parting them out.
i recently acquired a soft1988 gta which i parted out (im 55 yrs old in a single garage in 3 weeks after work)and now i have:
built 700r4
aluminum drive shaft
booster,master cylinder,front calipers and proportioning valve for 4 wheel disc brakes
good running L98 350 with every supporting sensor,accessory,ducting and part top to bottom including ecm,harness etc
9 bolt 3:27 posi disc brake rear end
door felts,door handles
mint grey gta seat
mint grey gta plastics
mint dash pad
digital dash gauges,hvac and accessories
mint fiberglass wrap around spoiler(you dont want to know what these cost)
full set of gta badges
set of gta crosslace rims
electric hatch pulldown
electric hatch release
gta map pocket
mint headliner
absolute mint tail lights,wiring and center piece
pop up headlights
rad,dual electric fans and relays
(much more im forgetting)
i sold the nose,headliner and fenders for $400,paid $900 for car so all this cost me $500.
you add it up its easily a couple grand if not more,much more in fact.i sell 1-2 more items this ends up being free.
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; 11-16-2019 at 08:47 PM.
I know this shouldn't be a reply on here but cant find out how to post on here but I have a 87 iroc and am swapping a 92 rs. doors fenders facia bumper gfx engine tranny and entire dash into it....what I wanna know is the 92 is tbi and I want to do the tpi of my iroc so I just pull the tpi intake off the iroc and put it on my 350 engine right and no problems or what.....also a side note my 87 iroc has a oil cooler and don't know if my 350 crate motor in my rs has one will that be a issue? thanks
I know this shouldn't be a reply on here but cant find out how to post on here but I have a 87 iroc and am swapping a 92 rs. doors fenders facia bumper gfx engine tranny and entire dash into it....what I wanna know is the 92 is tbi and I want to do the tpi of my iroc so I just pull the tpi intake off the iroc and put it on my 350 engine right and no problems or what.....also a side note my 87 iroc has a oil cooler and don't know if my 350 crate motor in my rs has one will that be a issue? thanks
its actually an oil "heater" and not an oil cooler at all.you can easily remove it and transfer it over or leave it off completely.
its actually an oil "heater" and not an oil cooler at all.you can easily remove it and transfer it over or leave it off completely.
There is an engine swap section on the tech board that will have tons of useful info for your swap. Do a build thread so we can all check it out. You will need a tpi fuel pump, computer to run tpi and probably a couple more small items.
still can find the dang build thread button but I have a fuel pump and the tpi computer being as I have a 1987 tpi iroc and a 1992 rs everything from the rs into the iroc but use the parts I need on the iroc
still can find the dang build thread button but I have a fuel pump and the tpi computer being as I have a 1987 tpi iroc and a 1992 rs everything from the rs into the iroc but use the parts I need on the iroc
Red menu bar at the top - How To's.
And FORUMS - Tech Boards - Engine Swap.
1985 firebird LG4, first start today after doing a head gasket job and lots of after market bolt ons while I was at it. Been down for about 3 weeks. Sounds mean with the open headers. Had to stop when I found out that my new timing light is no good, only ran it for about 5 minutes. Would post a vid of it running but says file type isn't supported
handy: make a youtube video and link it here.you cant post videos so no video file type at all is supported for them.
also: i wouldn't be too concerned about running it without a timing light.if it started and runs and doesn't ping and
detonate you will be fine until you can find a decent timing light imo.Ive changed my intake,carb,distributor etc and
never used anything but my ear and sensibility when setting the timing,its also an LG4 with bolt ons until my vortec 350
is done and installed.
here is the current configuration:
and here is my engine that im building:
L31 vortec 350 (1998)
edlebrock rpm intake and moroso 1" spacer
holley 650 ultra double pumper ( edlebrock 750 carb on engine temporarily)
GMPP 7151 roller cam
comp cams double roller chain
gmpp LS6 valve springs
HEI with accell coil ,dei module,mr gasket vacuum adv,taylor spark plug wires
hedman ceramic coated shorty headers(flowtec crap headers on engine in picture)
aluminum water pump,timing chain cover,billet aluminum valve covers and breathers
serpentine accessory belt system /b/n alternator,etc
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; 11-23-2019 at 11:06 AM.
I got another timing light. Hope this one works lol. While I was doing the head gasket I added ;
edlebrock 1406 carb, accell red top vac adv dizzy, edlebrock intake, hedeman shorty headers.
And I deleted the following; ECM and harness, ALL emissions components , A/C system that was hacked up when I bought the car. Hopefully will get timing set and carb dialed in today then she will be ready to go to the exhaust shop.
Not trying to nitpick, but I see you are using fuel line for the PCV. Go to NAPA, they have the correct hose. Fuel line will turn rock hard in a short time.
Also, although convenient to see the fuel, those clear filters are a fire hazard. I don't want to see anyone's car burn down.
Standard neoprene fuel hose can be used for fuel, PCV and EEC systems on all vehicles where working pressures are under 50 psi or vacuum ratings are under 24-in. Hg for 7/16-inch and smaller inside-diameter sizes (10-in. Hg for ½-inch diameter hose). Fuel line is a petroleum-resistant nitrile tube with a covering that resists weathering, ozone and heat and can be used for ethanol-laced fuels and diesel fuel. It should, however, not be used on coolant systems, oil systems or fuel-injection systems that produce pressures higher than 50 psi. SAE ratings displayed on the hose should be 30R6 or 30R7.thanks for your concern!!.the clear fuel filter was temporary as well,thanks again.any advice on an engine build for a first timer?ive done plenty of bolt ons but haven't done the whole shebang yet
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; 11-23-2019 at 04:22 PM.
Also, although convenient to see the fuel, those clear filters are a fire hazard. I don't want to see anyone's car burn down.
I just put one in with the edlebrock 1406 carb, I thought about it being a fire hazard, but at the same time thought "this is what edlebrock supplied with the carb" how bad are we talking to run it for a few weeks till I get a metal one
I just put one in with the edlebrock 1406 carb, I thought about it being a fire hazard, but at the same time thought "this is what edlebrock supplied with the carb" how bad are we talking to run it for a few weeks till I get a metal one
It's probably more about where and how you located the filter, and how much vibration it is exposed to.
A few weeks should not be a problem.
any advice on an engine build for a first timer? i've done plenty of bolt ons but haven't done the whole shebang yet
Yes. We all start by doing bolt-ons (and getting lucky that we were successful). Eventually your confidence grows to where you think you can build the short block. But, for as much as you think you know, it's the things you don't know that are going to bite you. And it hurts you in the wallet. Going inside the block, you leave the bolt-on world and enter the world of precise clearances. And if you do not have the tools and measuring instruments (and KNOW how to use them), then you will be miles ahead if you bought a short or long block, preferably with a warranty. And from known, reputable places.
If you really want to get inside an engine and get your hands dirty, pick up a complete, running, carbed, old-school SBC with the large cap vacuum advance HEI and disassemble it, clean up the parts, buy an overhaul kit, and see if you can put it back together and make it run. Then you will learn very quickly how much you know - or don't know.
Yes. We all start by doing bolt-ons (and getting lucky that we were successful). Eventually your confidence grows to where you think you can build the short block. But, for as much as you think you know, it's the things you don't know that are going to bite you. And it hurts you in the wallet. Going inside the block, you leave the bolt-on world and enter the world of precise clearances. And if you do not have the tools and measuring instruments (and KNOW how to use them), then you will be miles ahead if you bought a short or long block, preferably with a warranty. And from known, reputable places.
If you really want to get inside an engine and get your hands dirty, pick up a complete, running, carbed, old-school SBC with the large cap vacuum advance HEI and disassemble it, clean up the parts, buy an overhaul kit, and see if you can put it back together and make it run. Then you will learn very quickly how much you know - or don't know.
ps:im a machinist so 4.0" +/- 0.0005 is a daily thing for the last 35 years fully versed in and own verniers,bore gauges etc and im not buying a long block new,screw that idea.
ive got a complete l98 tpi, a complete l31 and a LB9 long block.ill just do it like ive always done,thanks.
Today I rechecked the timing, set the new distributors vac advance per the supplied instructions, fixed the blower motor so now my heat works. And I cleaned the windows inside and out (looked like it hadn't been done in years, couldn't see through glass with light in front of or behind at night) . Danmed Windex is leaving streaks everywhere, what do y'all use for that streak free shine?
i apologize if i was pissy,i appreciate the advice .i just have the reluctance of someone who hasn't done an engine
build himself.i just have to measure 5 times and do it right the first time,in the meantime ill continue gathering what i need.
do you have any recommendations on a kit,once i obviously disassemble the engine and check for wear
and see if i need to overbore/machine the block or just get a hone and cleanup done.
i have a felpro one piece oil pan gasket,felpro valve cover gaskets and tpi 350 head gaskets
but i think i would probably need a new set of rings,rod and crank bearings,frost plugs,
head bolts for vortec heads(plus the comp cams retainers and positive valve seals i still need)
also ,whhat are your thoughts on flat top pistons vs the stock dished L31/L98 pistons i already have.is it worth the expense and to what advantage?
i looked at it today but yesterday i cut the bumped for my intercooler. need to fab up some mounts. ordered a couple more parts for my swap.
the car isnt level on the jacks. thats why it looks a little wonky. lol
also need to sand it down and paint it a little. might paint the end tanks black but not sure yet.
do you have any recommendations on a kit? also ,whhat are your thoughts on flat top pistons vs the stock dished L31/L98 pistons i already have.is it worth the expense and to what advantage?
I personally haven't rebuilt an L31, so I will defer to someone that has.
bartered a deal on an HSR upper nd lower intake. got a VERY good deal. its just the upper and lower so I need to get a few more pieces but im excited. its brand new. its been mounted but the motor was never run. its perfect.
bartered a deal on an HSR upper nd lower intake. got a VERY good deal. its just the upper and lower so I need to get a few more pieces but im excited. its brand new. its been mounted but the motor was never run. its perfect.
lucky man,i wish i had the patience,money and time to deal with efi especially a hot rodded one.my car is carbed and will stay that way once my sp350/357 is done being built.im in canada so i only get 4 maybe 5 months of occasional driving out of it
its a small block chevy ,im just putting vortec heads,vortec edlebrock RPM intake with a nice gmpp 7151 roller cam into an L98 ,beehive springs and lots of other cheap and or used mods.billet everything,alternator,water pump,timing chain cover,valve covers,breathers,mechanical fuel pump(all used of course,i have about $200 max in all of the dressup stuff)
Thanks, the underside is finished in Aluma-Blast by Seymour. its fantastic stuff. I was first turned on to it by my alternator repair/rebuild guy. we use it everywhere we need a realistic aluminum finish. The top I coated with an aerosol truck bed type coating. It’s a fine texture with high durability.
driving home Thursday night and my headlights and interior lights went dangerously dim. checked the gauge and it was showing 8 volts. recharged the battery and fired the car again and it stil wasn't charging. I have a bad alternator. im removing it now to have it tested. I will buy a replacement and get it on today. at least that's the plan autozone said it was good but I don't believe them. the car starts fine but only has about 13 volts when running. the alternator should be keeping it higher than that when running.
driving home Thursday night and my headlights and interior lights went dangerously dim. checked the gauge and it was showing 8 volts. recharged the battery and fired the car again and it stil wasn't charging. I have a bad alternator. im removing it now to have it tested. I will buy a replacement and get it on today. at least that's the plan autozone said it was good but I don't believe them. the car starts fine but only has about 13 volts when running. the alternator should be keeping it higher than that when running.
The alternator MIGHT only need new brushes. Not a hard job to do.
Reinstalled fuel tank with new pickup and pump in the 88 GTA. Ran her for the first time in several years. Great day!! First time seeing action on these gauges!!
need some help. I disassembled my gauge cluster and I need a pic of a 91-92 dash showing the volts gauge in the key off position. I don't know how far to the left it sits when there is no power.
Since she’s been sitting for so long, I decided to change the water pump just as a preventative measure. New pump bought, old pump is off, I’ll put some black paint on it tomorrow before putting it on.
Bolted some more chrome on the bird. Had been waiting for the covers to come in, summit sent them as replacements since their house brands were defective. The black summit covers, the baffels on drivers side were hitting the rocker arms. I like these alot better anyway, glad it worked out.
11-11-2019, 03:56 PM
