Been a long time since I have been on here.

I am digging in to the car again because my 12 year old daughter is showing interest and asking " when are you going to have the Camaro running again"

So...2 summers ago the car was running after my drive line swap.
It had a ground issue, which i believe i solved.
It then had a "vapor lock" type issue, which i believe is caused by the return fuel line being to close to the header.... know what i have to do there.

But...then, it would intermediately not start....maybe every 3rd turn of the key... It just seemed to "fade away", would start here and there....then not at all.

So...here is what it is doing/not doing:

Turn key to "on" position. first thing i noticed is the fuel pump not priming. No missing it...it's loud. security light on, check engine light on, gauges function.

Turn key to "start" position. temp gauge goes up, but NOTHING. no click, no anything...... just weird.

Here is what i have tried:

Bought new relay(s) (the ones by the brake booster) and that did not change anything.
Checked all fuses.
Bypassed VATS.
Starter is new(but does not make sense that it would be the starter with the fuel pump not working either) which i believe the would also count out the neutral safety switch.

So.....conclusion is it has to be something both the starter AND fuel pump are connected to power-wise.

Next guesses for me are the key cylinder, or possibly the switches on top of the column?

REALLY stumped here.....

Any help/ideas ? mods in the signature. Thanks

 

Based on your description I would probably also be leaning towards the switch being the culprit. When you say nothing in start position, does that mean everything shuts off (dash lights and everything?) Could be a bad connection at power distribution block on the starter also or a bad engine - chassie ground
Do you have someone that can check that you're getting switch power at the starter while you turn the key?

 

"When you say nothing in start position, does that mean everything shuts off"

I will have to look tonight when i get home. i did track down an ignition switch....but it was not easy. EVERYBODY had them for manual trans cars but none for automatics.....finally found one today (after 5 attempts yesterday).
$23 gamble...hoping it is the issue. will let you guys know!! cross your fingers for me......cause this may push me over the edge...and somebody will be getting a good roller car after i yank the engine and tranny.....cause this thing is driving me bat $hit crazy...

mcgarnicle

 

Is there a difference in the switch between manual and auto cars? I know the steering columns are different because of the shifter lock, but I would have thought the switches are the same. A few years ago I even used a switch from an older Cherokee in order to fix an 88 Firebird I had bought not running.

 

yep...they are different.
put the switch in and to no avail....


what i DID discover:

I took a test light and checked my positive wire cluster...all good.

Took the test light to the positive on the starter solenoid...good.
Took the test light to the purple wire going to the neutral safety switch....daughter turned key to start position, lit up like a Christmas tree!!

so....i then put the test light to the post that connects the solenoid to the starter...the right arrow in the pic...


and WA-LA...the thing started cranking!!! but damn, that thing sparked, got red....crazy.

so...where should i go from here?
why did that thing get so hot?
still no fuel pump prime, though....but gettin somewhere finally...

 

pulled starter tonight...

the saga continues...

crispy....

 

Wellll new starter is in...cranking like crazy....guess it was the starter, the whole starter, and nuthin but the starter.

Now....fuel pump. not gonna be fun...done it before, but that was when the whole drive line was out of the car.
But i refuse to cut a hole in the floor of the car....

So the next phase begins.....

Since i am considering buying a new tank any way(only $165), should i just drill a hole in the old tank and let it drain out?
Also, can i use just a poly urethane clear on the tank, or does it have to be paint specific to gas tanks?

TIA

 

HA...the only thing good that has come out of all of this is my VATS bypass seems to be working