Originally Posted by sofakingdom

He's probably not going to be able to come up with much more info from the dyno... he already told us it was done before he got the car. At this point he needs to work with what info he has, or go get some more. (which just running it on the dyno again is probably largely a waste of time)



So true... yet so universal. Go visit forums that cater to trucks, muscle cars, antique cars, you name it, you get the same thing. "I've got a {fill in the blank carb brand} what size jets should I put in?" "What should my ignition timing be?" and the like. Ya gotta ask THE ENGINE questions like that, not THE INTERNET!!!! The engine will tell you in unmistakable terms when you make a change, whether you went the right way or not: it MAKES MORE POWER or otherwise RUNS BETTER. The procedure is, make a change, measure the OUTPUT (power, torque, mileage, etc.), make another change, measure output, .... until EVERY further change you make, in EITHER direction, makes it WORSE. Once you get to that point, it's as good as it can possibly get. THEN AND ONLY THEN, record the input measurements (timing, mixture, etc.) so that in the event of future repairs or whatever, you can put the inputs BACK. It's so eeeeeeeezy, so simple, so obvious, it hurts to even try to imagine how people can ignore such a basic fact. But yet they do.

Humans. So emotional, illogical and irrational.

Originally Posted by sofakingdom

Humans. So emotional, illogical and irrational.

Originally Posted by sofakingdom

IMO you already have about every "upgrade" you can do to TPI. You're kind of at a crossroads here: either learn and equip yourself to tune and optimize what you've got, or $$$start over$$$.

I'd suggest at least TRYING the former.

"Learn and equip yourself to tune" DOES NOT mean "buy a chip" from whomever. It means, acquire the equipment to burn your own chips, and learn how to adjust the programming to make YOUR engine in YOUR car do what YOU want it to. An alternative would be a replacement ECM of some sort, be it aftermarket or OEM (a 0411 for example is HIGHLY flexible and could almost certainly be adapted to TPI and made to run circles around the original thing from the Stone Age).

I'd certainly start there if I were in your place. Make what you've got do the best it can, before piddling around with more parts. Nothing you have listed up there sticks out as glaringly obviously "wrong", except possibly the injectors, which are just YUUUUUUUUUUUJJJJJE for the rest of what you've got. I'd start over with a freshly refurbed set of Frod light-blue Bosch III 24-lb ones as you begin tuning: injectors on the small-ish side with higher fuel pressure ALWAYS work better than too-large ones and low fuel pressure. Of course if it doesn't already have an AFPR, you'll need one of those at the same time.

Originally Posted by Street Lethal

How exactly are you trying to find out what the deal is? Your engine should be pulling much higher than that, yet it is falling off below 5000-RPM, that should immediately tell you that whoever burned the chip, if in fact a chip was even burned, maintained an L98 SA Main Table. You are running a cam and intake designed to pull much higher, but the timing is holding you back. You are mismatched. It is in your tune. Vanilla Ice has it right, this is why he wants to see the tuning files. Your torque reveals what your horsepower should really be. Had the engine pulled where it was supposed to pull you would have seen closer to 325/350-RWHP, but your timing table is hindering you. Get a new chip.

Originally Posted by edpontiac91

I can only give advice as to what I found out by doing one thing at a time. Your engine combo is so overloaded, you cannot go by what helped or hindered your performance. One thing I found out was that the STOCK throttle body performed better on the 1/4 mile than the larger (next step up). It lost almost 2 tenths. Do you have an Air Foil for that either? As one member stated, the Siamesed Intake Runners developed by SLP really made a difference in the RPM, where as the stock ran out of steam around 4,600 rpm and now mine pulls right up to red line. You also need to pull your plugs and see how much soot is on them. If your going to use a dyno pull, you'll need to spend some $$$$ in retesting. Some mods will feel really good on the street, but 1/4 times will tell a different story. Just my

Originally Posted by Fast355

I see shorty headers also but no mention of anything else. Even the stock 350 exhaust is TERRIBLE on these cars and the exhaust really needs to be opened up.

My L31 350 express van breathing through 1 3/4" primary shorties, factory 3" dual cats and factory intake manifold with only a production LT4 cam and 1.6:1 rockers put down over 280 RWHP on a Mustang Dyno. In my personal opinon the truck manifold is worse than a long tube runner TPI.

Originally Posted by RamIt

I knew it! You are Spock.