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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Long story short a friend of mine just gave my son an 85 trans am. The car hasn't been driven in about a year. We just ordered a GM service manual but it will be a week or more before it arrives. The car runs good and had no major problems when it was last driven. Our first task was to clean up the engine compartment and remove the air pump and a/c compresor which had been previously disconected. My first problem is the wiring on top of the engine where I've got what looks like two temp sensors in the thermostat housing one is broken off and neither are conected also there are several loose wires laying on the intake manifold that come from the original harness but are not conected to anything.
the water neck should have the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) that provides the temp reading for the ECM (two wire connector) AND the Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) for the EFE (Early Fuel Evaporation) system that shuts a valve in the passenger side exhaust manifold (between mani and Y) to route heated exhaust gas through intake manifold passages to pre-warm the fuel/air under cold start/running. The EFE is not super critical (or even mildly critical IMO) and the rest of that system is probably rusted up/gone anyway.
Throw up some pics of your unconnected junk and we can help sort it out.
the water neck should have the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) that provides the temp reading for the ECM (two wire connector) AND the Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) for the EFE (Early Fuel Evaporation) system that shuts a valve in the passenger side exhaust manifold (between mani and Y) to route heated exhaust gas through intake manifold passages to pre-warm the fuel/air under cold start/running. The EFE is not super critical (or even mildly critical IMO) and the rest of that system is probably rusted up/gone anyway.
Throw up some pics of your unconnected junk and we can help sort it out.
Thanks! I was guessing it had something to do with that. Nothing else made sense..
In the end we plan on adding headers, open element air filter, etc etc so we're not going to be using the EFE system anyway. Not to mention we live in Alabama so cold isn't something we run into very often.
I'm looking for a camera right now. Should have pictures up today unless I can't find it..
My son took the pictures so it's probably not all of the wires/connecters but it's big chunk of them.
Looks like you've got a pre-1981 carb judging by the lack of the mixture control solenoid and a few other odds and ends. Those electrical connectors in the middle photo would have been for the original/correct carb. You can still reconnect the electric choke for it though, the connector for it always breaks off, but it'll be there somewhere in the engine bay. Most people just zip tie it to the choke.
Looks like you've got a pre-1981 carb judging by the lack of the mixture control solenoid and a few other odds and ends. Those electrical connectors in the middle photo would have been for the original/correct carb. You can still reconnect the electric choke for it though, the connector for it always breaks off, but it'll be there somewhere in the engine bay. Most people just zip tie it to the choke.
That is not the original carb. The connectors for the original, computer controlled carb are visible. Looks to be the original distributor though, which is not a good combination now. Without the ccc-qjet the ECM will not get the feedback it needs to correctly advance the timing.
At this point you need to decide whether to go back to the computer controlled stuff or ditch it entirely for the mech qjet and dist. Personally I would retain the computer controlled stuff if possible, it will function well without the AIR and EGR (my 85 and 87 have neither as both have vortec heads). Difficulty of finding the parts and repairing the other stuff could sway my opinion though.
The computer controlled system is self-tuning to a large degree and will likely net better mileage and performance. A mech carb/dist will require real-world tuning of timing and fuel mixture-not terribly difficult but often 'close' is judged good enough by the hobbyist. The mechanical system will also require some other method to engage the torque converter lock.
It probably came out of a full-size truck then. They had different emissions regulations for trucks, so they didn't get all the electronics until years later.
Plus the engine is blue. I'm guessing a complete running swap at some point in the past. Wasn't '82 the only year to have corporate blue?
You guys are starting to scare me haha! It looks like the engine was silver, then painted blue. Was the silver a primer or something, or the original paint??
I'll make another account soon so my father can have this one back..
Pic 1 could be the MC solenoid wires, maybe.Hard to tell w/out the plug.
2.Has the TPS connector by the EFE sensor & one vacumm fitting that would have gone the a nipple on the OE carb just below the TPS.
3.Air diverter valve solenoid connectors.
4.Besides the choke, vacumm line for EGR valve solenoid(visible in 2nd pic, between heater hoses).
5.ECM positive power.
To get an original carb, search eBay Motors for "e4me". That's the designation for the electronic (computer command - often abbreviated "CC") carburetor. You can get a rebuilt carb for less than $300, used for less than that. You could also check your local chain parts stores - Advance Auto lists a reman for $400 (plus $106 core charge - they'd likely take your non-CC carb for the core).
As 84 1LE noted, your 5th engine compartment photo is the computer power. That would need to be hooked up for the system to work.
In order to work, the CC carb system needs: a CC carb (obviously) and distributor (which you appear to have); O2 sensor (in the driver side exhaust manifold - the factory routed the wire in front of the carb and over the valve cover); MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor (which is probably hooked up - over by the power brake booster); BAR (barametric) sensor (which is on the cowl by the HVAC housing, and appears to be hooked up in your pics); aforementioned CTS (coolant temp) sensor. The computer also looks for the EGR solenoid to be in-line - don't even have to have the EGR valve if the solenoid is hooked up electrically; it'll run just fine without it, but will turn on the check engine light. The A.I.R. (smog pump) and EFE don't need to be hooked up, and the engine and computer won't care.
What transmission do you have? I don't see a TV (throttle valve) cable on the carb throttle arm, so I'm assuming a 5-speed manual. If that's the case, then the least expensive route would be to get a vacuum/mechanical advance HEI distributor - doesn't have to be GM, many aftermarket versions are available, and you just need to hook up the power wire for it to work (and tach wire, assuming you have a tach).
If you have an automatic transmission, then the computer operates a torque converter clutch (TCC), that won't work correctly without the CC carb and distributor. You can get a kit to operate the TCC without the computer, but frankly the computer does a better job. But it should be utilized, because the tranny will overheat internally in cruise conditions without it.
Overall, looks like you have something to work with. A bit hacked up, but we've seen worse.
Oh, whether you have the original engine doesn't make a lot of difference. It does appear to be an aluminum intake manifold, which all U.S.-delivered 3rd gen carb'd V8's had. The blue paint is "odd", but not a show-stopper. You could look for the block casting numbers (behind the driver side head, and hard to see - sometimes the last 3 digits are cast in large numerals on the side of the block, and are sufficient to identify it), and the head casting numbers (under the valve cover). You could also look for the engine ID numbers stamped on the pad in front of the passenger head, under the alternator. It could be the original engine was rebuilt and painted blue, but that isn't as likely as it was that the original engine was swapped out. I'd pull a valve cover and get the head casting number first, because if this is a 70's 305, then it may have small valves, and you might not want to put much effort into fixing it up (like headers).
My intention right now is to get the car into my basement so that we can strip it down and make a list of any parts we may need to be looking for while we start to rebuild the suspension and brakes. The body has no visible rust but I want to see what might be under the carpets. As far as the engine and the carb I think We will find an electronic one and try to set up the computer control again. I talked to the previous owner who is also a friend of mine and he told me that the engine was the original rebuilt to original specs about eight years ago. The car was then lent to a family member and he doesn't know what may have been done to it in the last seven years. As far as the blue paint my thought is that it was painted after the rebuild because the suports that the motor mount's sit on are the same blue.
Thanks for the help with the carb my experiance with these carbs is pre 1980, also I did find the cable that goes to the transmision laying next to the carb on the drivers side.
Let us know if there is anything specific you need to know from the service manual. I own one and can scan anything you might need. My car is completely stock with everything connected and in working order, so if you require photos of something, it is very easy for me to snap a photo. That rear spoiler on the hatch is not stock for an LG4 car of that year. In 1985 that spoiler did become available but only on the TPI engine.
"That rear spoiler on the hatch is not stock for an LG4 car of that year. In 1985 that spoiler did become available but only on the TPI engine."
Not true.
I ordered my 85 TA in February 1985, with the LG4 engine and with the Aero Wing.
I'm at a loss for words. I guess I shouldn't believe everything I read. In my defense, you say you ordered the car; did you specify you wanted that feature? I was lead to believe that only TPI cars came with that wing. Most dealer ordered Trans Ams with the LG4 got the straight wing/spoiler I assumed. By the way, your car is a twin to mine; same color combination and wheels.
I'm at a loss for words. I guess I shouldn't believe everything I read. In my defense, you say you ordered the car; did you specify you wanted that feature? I was lead to believe that only TPI cars came with that wing. Most dealer ordered Trans Ams with the LG4 got the straight wing/spoiler I assumed. By the way, your car is a twin to mine; same color combination and wheels.
True statement! I ordered the LG4, TTops,AC, PW/Locks, Custom Grey Cloth, AM/FM Cass, the Wheels, and the Aero Wing. (Which was a raised dimpled unpainted matte rubber). Ordered it from Premeir Pontiac in Little Rock, Arkansas. Shortly after, I took that picture in LR along the Arkansas River. I loved that car. Unfortunately, after moving to California in April 87, it developed Transmission problems under Warrenty and Pontiac couldn't fix it right. They took the car back under the California Lemon Law. 20k miles. One very sad day. I miss it a lot! You have a very fine car/color combo! I'm jealous!
Alright, We're finally getting it into the garage soon. Either today or tomorrow if it doesn't rain.(really slick near the garage, and it's down a hill)
We've decided we'll probably take the engine out. Lets us be sure it's original(or not) and easily replace anything that needs replacing. And to repaint it as it's ugly right now. Some bare metal, some silver and some blue. Probably going to paint it orange like most chevys. We have an engine crane and an engine stand.
Something new that came up, our neighbor(who gave me the car) said when he had the engine rebuilt 7 years ago he threw a low mile corvette tranny in it. He thinks that's what's in it now.
I guess that's pretty much it until we get it into the garage..
As far as getting the car into a dry place to work on it, take your time. If Mother Nature isn't cooperating, then just wait until the weather is better. No use getting hurt.
From what I have read, the best 700R4 came out in '87 and later. There is always someone talking about installing a corvette vacuum modulator which is supposed to give firmer shifts. I'm pretty happy with mine just the way it came in 1985. But at least you know that the trans has been swapped out.
You can paint the engine whatever color is handy or appeals to you. The 1982 cars had the engine in corporate blue. Anything after that in an F-body was black. That's why you don't see much of the engine when you peek in the engine bay. It's all pretty dark in there! Painting the engine orange would be a dead giveaway that the motor has been out of the car. It would look retro though!
Well its inside and we now know it has a working posi. After moving one of the beetles out of the garage I've got enough room to work on both of my kids cars. As my son stated its been awful wet here and ground is pretty saturated but I wanted to see the trans am inside and see how much working room we will have and worst case we cover the car up when we get as far as we can, but to my surprise even with the front brakes dragging it pushed itself right into the garage. I was so surprised that it made first try that I backed it just off the skirt into the slik mud and touched the gas while the kids watched the wheels and they both spun and once in the garage I power braked it lightly and both wheels broke loose, which helps to explain how it made it easily.
Now its time to get to work and I'm sure we will have many questions as we go and we will be posting pictures of our progress.
thank's John.
Did a quick compression test, engine warm(Cold in the basement so we let it idle for a little while) with full throttle.
They were all within a few points of 110, I don't have the exact recordings.. It was late and I lost the notebook.. The highest one was 114ish(not the most precise gauge) and the lowest was 109ish.
Before we decide anything we'll probably do another round of tests.
Now, I know it's kind of quick to be thinking about this, but.. I mean we have no idea how many miles it has on it, it's been rebuilt once, 7 years ago, it needs at least a new carb if we decide to use the computer.. I'm almost thinking about getting a 350 out of an old chevy truck.. I don't really like removing the original engine, but I'm starting to get scared it's going to be more trouble then good..
But anyway, it's coming out first so we can have a good look at it and decide from there.
Oh and the code on the tranny right above the pan says it's a 1985 700R4.
According to the service manual, the lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading should be less than 100psi. With that said, I would say that your compression test is good. The 5.0 is a stout motor and can go well over 200k miles, as many on here can verify. If it was built within the last seven years, then valve stem seals should be good. If you are going to pull it to check other things, it is a good time to put a better cam than the stock "peanut" cam.
My 5.0 has a little over 70k miles and is all stock. The E4ME carburetor works very well and has been able to achieve 25mpg on the freeway. I routinely get 20-21mpg on my commute. There aren't too many 30 year old V8s than can do that! And yes, that is with the 700R4.
According to the service manual, the lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading should be less than 100psi. With that said, I would say that your compression test is good. The 5.0 is a stout motor and can go well over 200k miles, as many on here can verify. If it was built within the last seven years, then valve stem seals should be good. If you are going to pull it to check other things, it is a good time to put a better cam than the stock "peanut" cam.
My 5.0 has a little over 70k miles and is all stock. The E4ME carburetor works very well and has been able to achieve 25mpg on the freeway. I routinely get 20-21mpg on my commute. There aren't too many 30 year old V8s than can do that! And yes, that is with the 700R4.
Oh I should also say my service manual just came recently. Got one off ebay for $25 shipped.
Yeah, they we're all fairly close to each other, it's just that 110 psi is pretty low from what I can tell.
True, but according to my neighbor it could have been driven 150k+ miles since it was rebuilt. Or 50k miles. He doesn't know, but he does know that in that time it was completely trashed and just worn out so it's been driven alot.
Definitely. The only thing I've heard is that taking an old slightly worn down engine and going from stock to new cam/headers/exhaust can be quite bad for it. Not sure if that's the truth or not.
I see from the initial set of photos to the second set, that the smog pump and A/C compressor have been removed. You also mentioned that you probably don't want the original air cleaner assembly. If you plan on ditching that air cleaner, I am interested.
I see from the initial set of photos to the second set, that the smog pump and A/C compressor have been removed. You also mentioned that you probably don't want the original air cleaner assembly. If you plan on ditching that air cleaner, I am interested.
Yeah, in the end it may or may not have AC. I know when it's 100F+ I'll want it! We still have the A/C comp, took it out as soon as we got the car as it was in the way and didn't work as of then.
Yeah, we're probably going for an Edelbrock or other 3" Open Element, not 100% sure yet though.
Alright, the project is at a halt(mostly) because of my sister's project(68 beetle) that has to be done before college which is next year.
But just a quick recap of what we've been doing recently.
So far we've ripped out pretty much all the interior, the gfx, bumpers, etc.
We purchased an almost perfect set of tan leather seats from a 2002 camaro, it was weird how easy they bolted right in. Literally easier then putting the originals back in. The only issue with them is a small cut on the driver seat, right bolster. Almost no wear, and on a side that really shouldn't get any, it's like a puncture almost. Not exactly sure what to do with it, the local hardware shop said they sell a glue that you just fill the hole with. Need some opinions on what to do.
We also purchased a 3.43 rear end off of a 2002 camaro, from the same guy as the seats. Both the seats and rear end supposedly have 40-60k miles on them.
One of the issues I'm worried about is getting both carpet and door panels that match the new seats.. Not sure what we're gonna do here.
Now to the engine. Like I said, the project is at a near standstill, but we did take a valve cover off to check the heads, hoping that they'd be 350 heads. Of course they were 80-86 305 heads meaning chances are the engine is original.. Possibly not, but probably. We should be pulling the engine in the near future to be sure. If it's a 305 we can start our hunt for a 350. Not a priority to get one first, but if a good deal comes along..
I think we are probably going SBC 350. Just an old one out of some junkyard truck probably. I think we'll have the most fun with it. I've never openend an engine up before so it lets me learn whilst building what I hope to be a great engine. Not to mention, we're not trying to get but enough power to b̶e̶a̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶M̶u̶s̶t̶a̶n̶g̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶C̶a̶m̶a̶r̶o̶'̶s̶ be able to pass and have some fun. Between me(17 years old) and the weak-ish rear end, we don't need a ton of power or something could go wrong.
That's pretty much it I think. I should be making a thread in "Members Firebirds" soon, I'll probably just copy this block of text haha.
The story was that 4+ yrs ago, my neighbor gave it to his brother TO USE(He didn't GIVE the car, just let him use it). It was close to "perfect" when he did. Fresh rebuild, all stock, etc. While, after 3 years of his brother using it, it was trashed.(Pics on OP) He gave his brother the title because he wouldn't leave him alone. 2 weeks after his brother got the title, my neighbor said I could have it. He got the car and title from his brother and here I am.
Yesterday his brother said he either wants the car or $1200. It's barely running, mismatched, dented up, paint is terrible, doors don't work, 90% of interior trashed inc trim, wheels are old aftermarket that are all rusted, etc. It's not worth anywhere near $1200 imo. We ripped the carpet out which could be an issue.
I don't know what we're gonna do.. We just bought a whole interior and rear end from a 2002 Z28 and L83 from 84 vette.. I don't have $1200, nor can I get it.
We may just give him the car and a little later buy a rolling chassis or something.. I don't know..
The story was that 4+ yrs ago, my neighbor gave it to his brother TO USE(He didn't GIVE the car, just let him use it). It was close to "perfect" when he did. Fresh rebuild, all stock, etc. While, after 3 years of his brother using it, it was trashed.(Pics on OP) He gave his brother the title because he wouldn't leave him alone. 2 weeks after his brother got the title, my neighbor said I could have it. He got the car and title from his brother and here I am.
Yesterday his brother said he either wants the car or $1200. It's barely running, mismatched, dented up, paint is terrible, doors don't work, 90% of interior trashed inc trim, wheels are old aftermarket that are all rusted, etc. It's not worth anywhere near $1200 imo. We ripped the carpet out which could be an issue.
I don't know what we're gonna do.. We just bought a whole interior and rear end from a 2002 Z28 and L83 from 84 vette.. I don't have $1200, nor can I get it.
We may just give him the car and a little later buy a rolling chassis or something.. I don't know..
Whose name is on the title , the neighbor who gave it to you , or the person trying to extort the $1200 ? If the title is in the name of the neighbor who gave it to you , tell $1200 guy to eff off or you'll call the cops on him . If it IS in the $1200 scumbag's name , you have no choice but to give him the car or money . Now , whichever name is on the title , that person needs to sign the title over to you if the car is to be truly yours . Even then , even after the owner signs it over to you , it's STILL not technically "yours" till the RMV has issued a new title in your name . It is my longstanding policy that I don't spend one dime beyond purchase price till the new title arrives in my name from the RMV , since you never know what kind of scumbaggery has happened with the VIN till it's been processed through the RMV and deemed to be OK (not listed as stolen , fake made up numbers , etc) .
The story was that 4+ yrs ago, my neighbor gave it to his brother TO USE(He didn't GIVE the car, just let him use it). It was close to "perfect" when he did. Fresh rebuild, all stock, etc. While, after 3 years of his brother using it, it was trashed.(Pics on OP) He gave his brother the title because he wouldn't leave him alone. 2 weeks after his brother got the title, my neighbor said I could have it. He got the car and title from his brother and here I am.
Yesterday his brother said he either wants the car or $1200. It's barely running, mismatched, dented up, paint is terrible, doors don't work, 90% of interior trashed inc trim, wheels are old aftermarket that are all rusted, etc. It's not worth anywhere near $1200 imo. We ripped the carpet out which could be an issue.
I don't know what we're gonna do.. We just bought a whole interior and rear end from a 2002 Z28 and L83 from 84 vette.. I don't have $1200, nor can I get it.
We may just give him the car and a little later buy a rolling chassis or something.. I don't know..
-mattbhm
Too bad you did all this before you had the title....If it were me, he could have the car. Find yourself something nicer.
Whose name is on the title , the neighbor who gave it to you , or the person trying to extort the $1200 ? If the title is in the name of the neighbor who gave it to you , tell $1200 guy to eff off or you'll call the cops on him . If it IS in the $1200 scumbag's name , you have no choice but to give him the car or money . Now , whichever name is on the title , that person needs to sign the title over to you if the car is to be truly yours . Even then , even after the owner signs it over to you , it's STILL not technically "yours" till the RMV has issued a new title in your name . It is my longstanding policy that I don't spend one dime beyond purchase price till the new title arrives in my name from the RMV , since you never know what kind of scumbaggery has happened with the VIN till it's been processed through the RMV and deemed to be OK (not listed as stolen , fake made up numbers , etc) .
Good Luck ....
The name on the title is the owner before my neighbor! That may not be good..
Thanks for all the info..
Originally Posted by aliceempire
Too bad you did all this before you had the title....If it were me, he could have the car. Find yourself something nicer.
It may come to that.. The seats/rear end/engine aren't going anywhere.
The name on the title is the owner before my neighbor! That may not be good..
Thanks for all the info..
John , I'm not going to sit here and try to play expert on Alabama motor vehicle law , but I am well versed in it , for the State I live in . Now , if Alabama does have similar law to my State , I can tell you how such things play out here . I can presume that your neighbor bought the car and never had a new title properly issued in his name ? Now , the problems will arise if the owner before your neighbor DID sign it over to your neighbor , cause then you'll likely only have two options . The neighbor would have to take the signed over title from the owner before and get it transferred to his name , whereupon he could then sign it over to you , or you would need to find the guy your neighbor bought it from and get him to get a duplicate title issued in his name , which he would then sign over to you . To the RMV the owner before the neighbor is still the legal owner , till a new title is filed in someone else's name . If that owner wrote your neighbor's name already on the title then you can't just scratch that out and put your name there , the RMV won't accept altered documents . If , by some stroke of luck the owner before the neighbor did nothing but sign the title , and didn't fill in any new owner's name , well then of course you could put your name in there as the buyer , file for your new title in your name with the RMV , and it'd be done . But I'm betting you neighbor's name IS filled out in the buyer area ? Then you got the two above options only .
And since Mr. $1200 scumbag's name doesn't seem to be in any way legally attached to this car , like I said earlier , tell him to go pound sand , cause his little scam ain't gonna go down like he planned . Guess he's gonna have to get the money for the crack he's obviously smoking elsewhere .
John , I'm not going to sit here and try to play expert on Alabama motor vehicle law , but I am well versed in it , for the State I live in . Now , if Alabama does have similar law to my State , I can tell you how such things play out here . I can presume that your neighbor bought the car and never had a new title properly issued in his name ? Now , the problems will arise if the owner before your neighbor DID sign it over to your neighbor , cause then you'll likely only have two options . The neighbor would have to take the signed over title from the owner before and get it transferred to his name , whereupon he could then sign it over to you , or you would need to find the guy your neighbor bought it from and get him to get a duplicate title issued in his name , which he would then sign over to you . To the RMV the owner before the neighbor is still the legal owner , till a new title is filed in someone else's name . If that owner wrote your neighbor's name already on the title then you can't just scratch that out and put your name there , the RMV won't accept altered documents . If , by some stroke of luck the owner before the neighbor did nothing but sign the title , and didn't fill in any new owner's name , well then of course you could put your name in there as the buyer , file for your new title in your name with the RMV , and it'd be done . But I'm betting you neighbor's name IS filled out in the buyer area ? Then you got the two above options only .
And since Mr. $1200 scumbag's name doesn't seem to be in any way legally attached to this car , like I said earlier , tell him to go pound sand , cause his little scam ain't gonna go down like he planned . Guess he's gonna have to get the money for the crack he's obviously smoking elsewhere .
Thanks for all the info! I have the title here, and strangely enough, it's only signed by the seller!
Signature: of Buyers *Blank* --- of Sellers *The sellers name*
I hope it's as easy as just signing a name under buyers and getting a new title..
It is correct that the brother's name isn't on ANYTHING related to the car.
Thanks for all the info! I have the title here, and strangely enough, it's only signed by the seller!
Signature: of Buyers *Blank* --- of Sellers *The sellers name*
I hope it's as easy as just signing a name under buyers and getting a new title..
It is correct that the brother's name isn't on ANYTHING related to the car.
-mattbhm
Well then by all means , fill out your name as the buyer , take it to the RMV , and file for a new title in your name . It will be as though you bought it from the owner before your neighbor and neither your neighbor nor his Brother will be involved in the process whatsoever , since the car was never legally put into either of their names .
PS , I'm SO happy to hear that the seller only signed their name , that has saved you from in effect having to buy two titles to get it into your name .
contingent on how much possible future *** pain this 'brother' can give you, I'd keep quiet until the title came back in my name. There's always the chance that the seller could have reported the title lost and applied for a new one before you get one back.
All provided your state's DMV works like our does.
A bill of sale from the neighbor could provide some additional insurance as well.
It now comes down to what my neighbor is going to do. He's not one to involve the police or anything and would rather just pay off his brother.. That is if his brother doesn't stop after I get the title down with my father's name.
It now comes down to what my neighbor is going to do. He's not one to involve the police or anything and would rather just pay off his brother.. That is if his brother doesn't stop after I get the title down with my father's name.
-mattbhm
Once you have the title in your name(or your fathers)there is no recourse for the brother or your neighbor. Nothing can stop them from trying to get the money from you but as long as you have that title in hand there is nothing they can do. Not sure if there is a friendship with the neighbor but that could be what suffers here.
Once you have the title in your name(or your fathers)there is no recourse for the brother or your neighbor. Nothing can stop them from trying to get the money from you but as long as you have that title in hand there is nothing they can do. Not sure if there is a friendship with the neighbor but that could be what suffers here.
There is a huge friendship with the neighbor. By that I mean if it takes $1200 to keep it that way, so be it.
Not to mention if all turns out well he'll give me a free paint job(My neighbor owns a body shop)
12-13-2015, 11:32 PM
I don't have $1200, nor can I get it.
