Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
Hi guys,
I am going to build up my currently full bolt on L98 this winter with some heads and cam, and figured I'd ask some of the guys who have been here before about what combos might work good. I'm looking to keep it long distance friendly and keep it close to 20 hwy mpg (23 hwy currently).
I have hedman shorties with Y pipe and no emissions, SuperRam intake with 58 MM TB and ram air, Ignition box with limiter, upgraded ignition, 24 lbs injectors (looking to go to 30 with this build), 3 row aluminum rad and high flow water pump, 160 thermostat, and it's tuned among other things. Putting it all through a 4L60 with a 4th gen 3.42 rear from a '00 SS.
I have a ZZ4 cam that I was going to throw in, along with some pocket ported 113 heads with 2.02/1.60 valves from a 91 Vette, but I am reconsidering since I just found out the heads need rebuilt. I figure by time I do all that, I might as well just get new heads. If I'd do that, I might find a better cam to go with them too, and sell this ZZ4 one. I also plan to upgrade the fuel pump, some trans. mods, and frame connectors.
So, thoughts?
I am going to build up my currently full bolt on L98 this winter with some heads and cam, and figured I'd ask some of the guys who have been here before about what combos might work good. I'm looking to keep it long distance friendly and keep it close to 20 hwy mpg (23 hwy currently).
I have hedman shorties with Y pipe and no emissions, SuperRam intake with 58 MM TB and ram air, Ignition box with limiter, upgraded ignition, 24 lbs injectors (looking to go to 30 with this build), 3 row aluminum rad and high flow water pump, 160 thermostat, and it's tuned among other things. Putting it all through a 4L60 with a 4th gen 3.42 rear from a '00 SS.
I have a ZZ4 cam that I was going to throw in, along with some pocket ported 113 heads with 2.02/1.60 valves from a 91 Vette, but I am reconsidering since I just found out the heads need rebuilt. I figure by time I do all that, I might as well just get new heads. If I'd do that, I might find a better cam to go with them too, and sell this ZZ4 one. I also plan to upgrade the fuel pump, some trans. mods, and frame connectors.
So, thoughts?
#2
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
Superram is nice. Couple that with a smaller head like a tfs 175- afr 180 or similar and a comp 268xfi, comp xe269hr or similar size and it will be an excellent driver, make solid power across the board and get the mileage you see when tuned for it. 3.23 would be better for mileage tho
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
I would stay around 180cc port heads. Brodix IK 180's, AFR 180's, Pro filer 180
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
Superram is nice. Couple that with a smaller head like a tfs 175- afr 180 or similar and a comp 268xfi, comp xe269hr or similar size and it will be an excellent driver, make solid power across the board and get the mileage you see when tuned for it. 3.23 would be better for mileage tho
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
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Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
I really never intended to spend this much on this, as I thought I had heads that were ready to throw on. In an attempt to save a few hundred, How do you think the ZZ4 cam with 1.6 rockers and these heads would work out? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2169
I know I'd have to change the valve springs since those are for tappet, but I found a pair that are going cheap enough to be worth it. It looks like they accept centerbolts too.
I know I'd have to change the valve springs since those are for tappet, but I found a pair that are going cheap enough to be worth it. It looks like they accept centerbolts too.
#9
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
I just found out the heads need rebuilt. I figure by time I do all that, I might as well just get new heads. If I'd do that, I might find a better cam to go with them too
I was getting 22mpg highway with a stock L98 with a zz4 cam (and headers), and a 3.27 gear through a 700r4. Car ran really well and had a lot more power. I say rebuild the heads, and stick to the cheapest option you have to fulfill your original goals (zz4/113 heads). You're right about getting new heads for a little more, then a new cam, then this, then that...then how about an LS swap? Same old story. If the money is there, then please by all means, get heads and cam. BUT....if you're on a budget, stick to the plan.
JM2C
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
Lol, yeah tell me about it. I definitely want to upgrade heads, but by time I buy them and then have them rebuilt, I can get new ones. I figure why use some modded factory 113's, when I can have some actual performance heads. I figure for as long as I just use the ZZ4 cam I have, it won't turn too terrible moneywise.
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
Yeah the pro-filer heads are only $200-240 more than those promax heads, and the profilers will have the correct springs you need for a roller cam..
The brodix IK 180 heads are around $400 more than those promaxx heads and again has roller cam springs
The brodix IK 180 heads are around $400 more than those promaxx heads and again has roller cam springs
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3.42 posi
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
What's wrong with Promaxx? You guys know they are Patriots under a new name, right? According to Hot Rod, they are great heads for the money. I can get springs for 100 bucks or less, to change them over for roller.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...head-shootout/
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...head-shootout/
#14
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
Patriots are not that 'good' of a head by any means.
They are cheap econo crap that flooded the market and sold a lot because they were $400-800 cheaper than good heads.
Just like pro comp and all the other off brand, no name brand, offshore crap
NKB, superflow, KMJ, flo-tek
"According to Hot Rod" lol, sorry man but the car rags is not really the best place to get good info from. They all have an agenda and all have ads, kickbacks, etc. Fun to read, but don't trust the results you see in them.
Any engine builder will tell you there is 3 kinds of horse power... Crank HP, Wheel HP, Magazine HP... Magazine HP is always much higher and never able to duplicate.
Do some research on those heads before you pull the trigger.
And think about this... Heads are the single most expensive part you buy for your engine (other than a supercharger, or turbo)
Is $200 worth the saving here?
I'm all for bargains and budget builds but heads are not where to save money at.
Let me make this clear... Yes the pro max heads and even pro comp heads will work (for now anyways) and will make more power than say 882 smoggers, and sure will look prettier sitting up on top of the engine...
BUT they are sub par performance heads... You will get about the same gains out of them as you would a set of stock vortec heads if you get a good pair and get lucky and dont have valve guide trouble, or major casting flash, wrapped deck, etc
I don't know about you, but I would feel really screwed over by spending $800+ for those and making the same power as what I have picked up at junkyards for $100. (I buy them now for $50 each and re sell for $100 each)
Speaking for myself... I will run a Vortec iron GM before those pro max or Patriots heads. At least I know they will last for years to come.
Heads to me are items I'm looking for max gain from because they do offer the biggest gain of any part you will buy/install on a N/A engine.
I'm also looking for trouble free install and use. As well as use on future engines 10, 15 years from now. If you can't trust it to last 20+ years... There is a prob. Also it would be nice to know that the company will be around in the future.
I will stick with Brodix, AFR, Dart, Edelbrock, Pro filer (which is newer, cheaper, but has proved it's self to be a major player in the game), trick flow, RHS, world
My camaro has brodix IK 200 heads, next go around on it will be AFR 220's
My S10 V8 has GM vortec heads
My dad's firebird has brodix IK 180
My son's third gen will have pro-filer 180
When I rebuild our '87 'burb it will get GM vortec heads
I have had my hands on those cheap brand heads, I have seen the poor castings, poor machine work in person, seen the cooked valve guides, mis-aligned rocker studs... I will pass, and do my best to save other people from making an $800 mistake if I can.
Keep in mind.. A set of $1200 heads now, is a lot cheaper than a set of $800 heads and then a set of $1200 heads later when those cheap ones fails you or does not make the power or flow you thought they would.
Rant off... Sorry
They are cheap econo crap that flooded the market and sold a lot because they were $400-800 cheaper than good heads.
Just like pro comp and all the other off brand, no name brand, offshore crap
NKB, superflow, KMJ, flo-tek
"According to Hot Rod" lol, sorry man but the car rags is not really the best place to get good info from. They all have an agenda and all have ads, kickbacks, etc. Fun to read, but don't trust the results you see in them.
Any engine builder will tell you there is 3 kinds of horse power... Crank HP, Wheel HP, Magazine HP... Magazine HP is always much higher and never able to duplicate.
Do some research on those heads before you pull the trigger.
And think about this... Heads are the single most expensive part you buy for your engine (other than a supercharger, or turbo)
Is $200 worth the saving here?
I'm all for bargains and budget builds but heads are not where to save money at.
Let me make this clear... Yes the pro max heads and even pro comp heads will work (for now anyways) and will make more power than say 882 smoggers, and sure will look prettier sitting up on top of the engine...
BUT they are sub par performance heads... You will get about the same gains out of them as you would a set of stock vortec heads if you get a good pair and get lucky and dont have valve guide trouble, or major casting flash, wrapped deck, etc
I don't know about you, but I would feel really screwed over by spending $800+ for those and making the same power as what I have picked up at junkyards for $100. (I buy them now for $50 each and re sell for $100 each)
Speaking for myself... I will run a Vortec iron GM before those pro max or Patriots heads. At least I know they will last for years to come.
Heads to me are items I'm looking for max gain from because they do offer the biggest gain of any part you will buy/install on a N/A engine.
I'm also looking for trouble free install and use. As well as use on future engines 10, 15 years from now. If you can't trust it to last 20+ years... There is a prob. Also it would be nice to know that the company will be around in the future.
I will stick with Brodix, AFR, Dart, Edelbrock, Pro filer (which is newer, cheaper, but has proved it's self to be a major player in the game), trick flow, RHS, world
My camaro has brodix IK 200 heads, next go around on it will be AFR 220's
My S10 V8 has GM vortec heads
My dad's firebird has brodix IK 180
My son's third gen will have pro-filer 180
When I rebuild our '87 'burb it will get GM vortec heads
I have had my hands on those cheap brand heads, I have seen the poor castings, poor machine work in person, seen the cooked valve guides, mis-aligned rocker studs... I will pass, and do my best to save other people from making an $800 mistake if I can.
Keep in mind.. A set of $1200 heads now, is a lot cheaper than a set of $800 heads and then a set of $1200 heads later when those cheap ones fails you or does not make the power or flow you thought they would.
Rant off... Sorry
#15
Re: Full bolt on L98 head/cam suggestions
What's wrong with Promaxx? You guys know they are Patriots under a new name, right? According to Hot Rod, they are great heads for the money. I can get springs for 100 bucks or less, to change them over for roller.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...head-shootout/
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...head-shootout/
Castings are ok and with bit of work they can be a decent head, but i would buy them bare and have a shop install proper hardware and valve job. But at that cost may have enough into them to have just bought better heads to begin with
Also i am not sure but i think those heads have a 1206 gasket port size. you wont beable to open up the intake base to that size. Double check that
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