Justins86bird

I need to replace the 4 pronged pole piece from a small cap HEI distributor. Is it pressed on? I don't see any other way it can be attached but I don't want to bust the housing in case there is some trick to getting it off.


Ignition Distributor Pole Piece Assembly
Part Number: D1987A

RBob

iTrader: (1)

It should just pull off. Might be a little snug but not pressed on. Good time to also replace the pickup coil.

RBob.

Justins86bird

I'll try to see if I can get it to pull off. I don't want to mangle the aluminum housing. Maybe some wd40 and twisting action will free it. Good to know its not pressed on.

Yeah, the pickup coil looks pretty sad so I'll replace that and get a new module. Pretty much rebuilding the whole thing. The top of the mainshaft was very rusty, so if I can't get that clean, I'll replace it too.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Can't twist it much until it is lifted some. The oblong hole is keyed to the upper housing. If the ICM is an AC Delco, do not toss it. A 369 ICM is the best one to get, that number will be on the to of the ICM. However, that is an older number and is superseded.

If it has 048 on the top, keep it but don't use it. This all has to do with trigger latency in the ICM. Long thread on the DIY_PROM board here about this.

It goes without saying to only use an AC Delco ICM. And be sure to clean the surfaces where the ICM mounts and use a decent heat sink compound (not dielectric grease).

As for the shaft assembly, make sure that the star wheel is firmly attached to the shaft. And that the magnets aren't cracked and swollen. If either replace the shaft.

I've rarely if ever found the housing to shaft bushings worn, but check them anyway.

Can shim the end play with shims under the lower gear to .012" at a minimum. I usually shoot for between .014 and .015". Not critical unless under the minimum.

Check that the base plate that the cap attaches to is still solidly connected to the distributor body. From time-to-time they come loose and cause havoc.

Since the shaft is already out this doesn't apply. But for others that have trouble pulling the shaft out use a carburetor gum cutter such as Birkibile 2+2 (I know that isn't spelled correctly).

Spray it into the lower shaft area and give it a few minutes to work. Twist and pull on the shaft, push it back in, spray more as required. This also works on getting cam lifters out of the bores on old varnished engines.

RBob.

Justins86bird

I got it off. Your right, no way to twist it. Used a bearing separator, wd40 and a rubber mallet. Just glad it wasn't a press fit. I'll have to check that base plate to make sure its ok. Trying to keep costs down to a minimum but not much of this dist seem reusable.

The module says Standard - Hong Kong on it. I ain't using that. I got the rust off and the star piece is full of cracks.

I have a NOS GM module 16140039. Top stamped 039 2G02. Would that work?

Thanks

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The other side of the coin is that once rebuilt it will still be better then any aftermarket piece.

Can keep the module as a backup. The shaft assemblies are still available, although a little pricy.

It will work, but it is for a '90 - '92 V6 3.1l with a small cap distributor. I have no idea what the difference is between that ICM and the 369 ICM. Can try it and see how it is. It may be as simple as the limp mode advance being different. Or as bad as having entirely different latency.

One thing I forgot to mention, when installing the drive gear on the shaft, the dimple on the gear gets aligned with the slot for the rotor (up top).

RBob.

Justins86bird

I'm doing my best to stay away from aftermarket. Nothing but problems.

Probably best to get the right ICM off the bat. Funny thing that V6 ICM crossref to the same Standard Brands module as a Camaro one. I'm looking at
ACDelco D1943A GM Original Equipment Ignition Control Module
Is that the 369 module?

Thanks for your time

RBob

iTrader: (1)

According to RockAuto the D1943A is a replacement for the '369' module. But that is via a cross reference of the Standard brand module. Rock also shows the same ICM being used for the 3.1l V6 and the V8 f-body cars. But then again, need to take a lot of this referencing with a grain of salt.

RBob.

Justins86bird

Do you happen to have the part number for a GM 369 ICM? Perhaps a NOS is the way to go for 100% chance of success.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Likely this number:

16139369

The last three digits are typically inked on the top of the ICM. Pictures in this post:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ml#post3775917

RBob.