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Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

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Old 05-29-2014 | 07:33 AM
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JamesC's Avatar
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

I finally got around to swapping in my Carter high-flow fuel plump (M6622). The last time I messed with a fuel pump was on an old Chevy pickup. The bolt in the block front made life easy. This time I couldn't access the hole, if there is one, sooo, I tried the hacksaw method of keeping the push rod up, which turned into an exercise in frustration.

Next I removed the fuel pump mounting plate and push rod, slathered the latter with wheel bearing grease (after bumping the engine several times to get the rod as high in the block as possible, which required trial fitting between bumps), and stuck it back in. It stayed "up" the entire time I fiddled with maneuvering the pump into place which took a while. That the motor was cool probably helped.

As a side note, as part of the replacement, I decided to bend a 4 1/2" x 3/8" fuel line to a 90 degree angle. I borrowed a bender from AutoZone. Yeah, ok, I'm getting old, but goodnight! I managed a small bend, looking like the Hulk—hell, I think I even turned green—but had to finish with a massive vise.

JamesC
Old 05-29-2014 | 08:14 PM
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OLDYELLR's Avatar
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From: Sweaburg, ON Canada
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

I just recently went through this. Murphy's Law says that the cam will always end up so the pushrod is extended. The hacksaw blade trick worked for me but I did have to get the 2 screws started with pump sitting out from the block. Maybe if you kick the engine over some you'll be able to move the pushrod further up so the pump is easier to install.
Old 06-06-2014 | 02:52 PM
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From: Southern California
Car: 1987 Camaro LT
Engine: LG4 w/ SLP headers & a 3" catback
Transmission: THM700R4 (Stock)
Axle/Gears: Stock 2.73 gears. No Posi
Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

So how is the pump performing for you James? Btw, I used the hacksaw blade with no problem.
Old 06-06-2014 | 03:09 PM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

Originally Posted by MY87LT
So how is the pump performing for you James?
No issues.

JamesC
Old 06-06-2014 | 03:18 PM
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From: Sweaburg, ON Canada
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

While this thread is going, I should mention that it's important to follow the instructions and hold the square port on the fuel pump with a wrench when tightening (or loosening) the steel fuel line. I needed to disconnect the steel line to do my head gaskets and didn't take this precaution. When I connected it back up and started the engine, I had a severe gas leak from the pump, which is why I needed to replace it. Loosening the connector, which was very tight, twisted the square port and broke where it was brazed to the pump body.

Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement-xljgmko.jpg
Old 06-06-2014 | 03:27 PM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement

Originally Posted by OLDYELLR
While this thread is going, I should mention that it's important to follow the instructions and hold the square port on the fuel pump with a wrench when tightening (or loosening) the steel fuel line.
As a second example, when I was removing the old pump, I only put a wrench on the fuel line nut and broke the pump as in your pic.

JamesC
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