TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

Okay guys, I've been on here a while asking a few questions.... Well here we go again.

As posted previously, my son blew his motor. So I figured to buy another short block have it machined and then just do a weekend swap. Only problem is I got a phone call from the machine shop that the block has a 5" long crack in the lifter valley.
I've already got new .030 pistons and an LT4 hot cam (roller).
What are the odds that the engine in his car is a roller cam motor ?

If it's not, can I use aftermarket roller lifters that have the link bar vs having to find a roller block to reuse the OEM spider in the lifter valley ?

Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated !

RyanJB

I'd imagine an 87 TPI would be roller cam. I thought everything was roller after 86...

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can use the roller cam in a non-roller block with the link-bar lifters. The only other thing that you need is a cam button to prevent the cam from walking, and a timing chain cover that is strong enough to resist deflecting. Make sure that you check the pushrod length if you do, as there is a good chance that you will need a different length pushrod.

On a different note, that crack can be repaired. Just a question of do you want to spend the money, and if the machine shop knows how to.

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure about this.... I did find another 350 short block from a 1990 truck. From the pictures I looked at, it wasn't a roller cam block.

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I found some link bar hydraulic roller lifters and the cam button. I'm sure the lifter supplier can provide the correct pushrods.

As for repairing the block, I'm not sure I want to do that....

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Yes the company can provide the correct length, but honestly it would just be better to check the length. Something like this...

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...9001/overview/

And this is how you do it...

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...h/viewall.html

There are too many variables not to check the length.

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

Good point and thanks for the links !!
This will come in handy "IF" my sons OE motor is not a roller cam block.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

1990? It should be a roller block….or at least roller capable I'd think. Factory roller lifters are sooo much cheaper than retro rollers!

RyanJB

I believe you're right about being roller capable at a minimum, but it should be a roller block from factory, especially in 1990. You could grab a .030 over block off of summit for $700 and some change, would probably be similar in cost to hunting down another block and then having all the machine work done to it. I had to get my block cut to .060 over and once I saw my bill I regretted not just buying one of the summit blocks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100/overview/

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

No, no, no..... the first short block I founs was $125. Now this 1990 short block is only $100. IF the block sitting in the car is a roller cam block, it's FREE. The total machine work on the block will be $375. Still cheaper than the summit block. And it doesn't come with a crank or rods !!

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Not all '86 and later blocks are roller cam, some trucks got flat tappet cams much later than '90. Also many of the crate motors, especially the cheap stock replacement ones, will have a casting date after '85 and have all of the bosses cast in for the roller cam stuff, but have a flat tappet cam in it.

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

This is true... but I may not have a choice. Other than his motor and the bad one at the machine shop, I haven't been able to find much of anything else !

RyanJB

Didn't realize you could find parts so cheap in your area, or that you planned on reusing the rods and crank, and that labor was so cheap. I'm not a fan of reusing parts with high mileage, just makes it easier for parts to fail again.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

OK...refer to my screen name...

If it (the '90) doesn't have a crank or rods, it's not a short block...it's just a block...

I think you'll need to list what engines you are looking at for me to understand...

In any case, you need a block at the minimum....research the cost of all the machine work it would take to switch the internals out of the original 87 engine into another block. You might just be better off buying a crate short block with a warranty...

But keep in mind most of your cheap "replacement" short blocks will normally have low compression cast pistons, and many of them are non-roller capable..some are.

Not a biggie if you want to stay stock-ish....just pay attention to what your compression will end up with your current heads once you bolt them on...

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

Okay lets "un-confuse" you.

ALL the short blocks I've been looking at ARE complete short blocks ie, block, crank, rods and pistons.

And a redone short block is all I need. I will be reusing the heads from the OE motor. the machine work for the short block is as I mention above will be $375. I will be doing all my own assembly.

The new setup will be somewhat "ish"... It'll have an LT4 hot cam with new lifters and new roller rockers. I'll be throwing on some headers and a high flowing 3" exhaust system as well.

Does this clarify things a little.....

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yes it does!

If you're getting the machine work done at 375 bucks for the short block, it sounds like a great deal to me. I assume it's going to cover any bore/hone needed, hot tank, cam bearings…good price! I assume you get to fit the rings, crank bearings and punch the pistons in the holes etc…right?

Add a cam and decent exhaust...Sounds like a good plan to me! Not sure about the LT4 hot cam, though it seems to be popular around here…but I guess you need to be careful with the cam you run with that rev limiter on top..lol

I'm paying quite a bit more to have a Dart block done at my local shop right now…but there's a bit more prep work involved with it.

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

Well today began the disassembly of the motor in the car since the 350 block at the machine shop has a 5" crack in it.
I have forgotten how much electrical connection crap and vacuum hosing there is on these TPI intakes !!
Well we got the intake apart and off, all the front accessories and cut loose the exhaust. Only thing left for tomorrow is to unbolt the tranny, converter and motor mount then pull the motor out.

Oh and this made me freakin HAPPY... pulled off the intake and there's the "spider" sitting in the lifter valley !! SWEET !!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Guess the spider will need to find a new home then!...

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

We finally got everything back from the machine shop. Started the reassembly today and guess what.... ANOTHER freakin road block !!! Installed the crank, bolted and torqued it down and spins nicely. Next we installed all the pistons, spun the crank to have access to 4 of the rods so I could torque them down. THEN went to try and spin the crank for access to the last 4 rods and NO GO !!! The cranks wouldn't turn !

I'm thinking the machine shop gave me the wrong rod bearing because something is just to damn tight ! If I loosen all the rod caps I can turn the crank but it does take quite a bit of effort.

Now I have to wait until Monday sine the shop isn't open on Saturdays....

FRUSTRATING !!!!

Vader

Just pointing out the obvious, but are the rods oriented correctly? There is a larger chamfer on the outboard side of each rod, and if they get installed inward, things get tight as the cap gets torqued.

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

ALL the pistons have a dot on the top and an "F" on the side of the piston and they're ALL facing the front of the engine. The only problem I can see is if some of the rods were installed on the pistons backwards....



Well hell...... just got through disassembling and reassembling the short block and don't I feel STUPID !!!!!

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

The motor going back in the car tomorrow..... Lets see how this goes. Hopefully not as many problems as I had removing it.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

So I'm a little slow....what was the issue??

TX-SleeperC5

iTrader: (2)

Pistons in wrong location.....