89Iroc_vert

Hello all. I have visited this site on several occasions and finally decided to become a member. I have found lots of helpful info and hope to grow as an enthusiast.
So here's the run down on my situation. My father purchased a 1989 Iroc in 1992 with the intentions of saving it for me. A beautiful black 5 speed 305 convertible. Bought it used from a dealer ship with low miles and previously owned by an older gentleman. At first it was his DD but then changed his mind accouple years in because he wanted to keep the miles low so it became a garage queen/weekend car. He eventually decided to paint it white and switch rims (he admits it was a huge mistake) and decided to leave her in the garage permanently. He finally gave it to me when I turned 18 but with no clutch(old one was bad), white paint with several primer spots, a ripped top and a couple interior parts missing(radio, door handles etc), on rs wheels. I attempted to work on it about a year ago but with little time, felt overwhelmed with the amount of work it needed and jus left it alone. Long story short it sat for about 8-10 years with an occasional turning on of the engine. The engine runs well and doesn't make any funny noises. It sits at 66,XXX original miles. It doesn't leak anywhere, jus a lot of old parts
My primary goal right now is getting the engine running strong and reliable before I start working on paint, top and interior.

Haven't done anything major to it but here's a list of things I've done.
-flushed radiator and changed hoses with Gates hoses.
-replaced coolant tank(old one had a leak)
-changed oil, filter.
-Filled with 91 octane chevron gas and added Lucas to it.
-spec racing clutch(uncle gave it to me and that's all I know of it)
Purchased but haven't installed
-180 fail safe thermostat.

I will make a trip tomorrow to take pictures of engine. I have plenty of time now to work on it. I would like to replace core parts or essentials to have my engine running healthy and smooth. I would like to replace everything to OE , want a reliable car, but wouldn't mind spending extra money to upgrade to a more quality part if the benefits outweigh the cost difference

I apologize for the extremely long post. My father promised me this car when it was a fully functional, all original Iroc and fell in love with it. Now I want to bring it back to life and get it back on the road. If any pics or additional info is needed, just let me know and I'll do my best to get the info for ya. Any ideas, suggestions, or opinions would be deeply appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Jersey89GTA

iTrader: (1)

I have a Black 90 Iroc vert 305 auto, its been a project for me as well, but I am having fun and taking my time. Same here -working my way to paint.

Make a list of priorities and with a pecking order ....

Engine work

Tires/brakes/Suspension

Interior work

Top

Body/Paint

I didn't put myself on a schedule, no pressure .... casualy look for parts,
I have a Pal that gets parts cars a few times a year, sometimes you score big ...

Guys here have lots of parts, ebay, CL, Classic ... so on.

Post up some pics.

89Iroc_vert

Heres the top view, and serperate left and right views of the engine.

89Iroc_vert

Due to being in a garage and sitting in a ranch for so long rats began to inhabit the engine and chewed on a couple wires. heres some pics and the issues in the red circle. any help as far as function and suggestion of replacement parts would be greatly appreciated

89Iroc_vert

Finished the with all the radiator stuff. Any other suggestions as to what i can tackle next to get the engine running smooth?

Jersey89GTA

iTrader: (1)

I see Tstat housing is off, the wires you circled are critical, they go to injectors, take an old one to auto part store , they have them/can order ...
splice them in. Shop vac the engine, get all the critter nuts out so they don't come back.

You can splice the vac hose, get new piece at AP store along with a coupling.

Typically usual trouble makers are EGR valves, IAC dirty, Throttle cleaning, vacuum leaks, TPS needing adjusting or new, PCV valve and hose leaking, O2 sensors, all cheap and easy to replace/adjust .... Haynes Manual or Chilton always a good investment. Then Fuel injectors/fuel pump and pressure should be checked. Injectors can be OHMed out as a starting point, Add injector cleaner like Seafoam or Lucas.

Any codes - do you have a code reader ?

89Iroc_vert

The tstat housing was off because I removed tstat for radiator flushing and replacing. Invested in a Haynes manual that will arrive Tuesday. Injectors are definitely priority. Drove the car up and down the street today and it felt way under power. High rpm at lows speeds as well as no power when attempting to accelerate. Any suggestions on brand? And cheapest place to get em? Engine got shop vac'd and got alittle spit shine. I don't have a code reader, on the dash it has the service engine soon light on. Added Lucas when I filled gas tank so that's good, going to add seafoam next tank full. Going to do a lot of research on how to slice in and get all the injectors tested and replaced. I Appreciate your help jersey, everyone else seems shy for input or jus annoyed by the same question huh? Lol. I will continue posting up progress as I go

Zane M

iTrader: (1)

I suggest getting your new fuel injectors from Southbay. They are a board sponsor, offer a great value for the price, and have a great reputation.

You do need to find the reason for the service engine light. That will help you narrow down the driveability issues.

You don't need a code reader to get the codes on the OBD1 system these cars utilize. You can jump across the A and B terminals with a paper clip or a piece of wire in the following manner(a Google or site search will give you a picture of where the A & B terminals are on the ALDL connector).
Turn on the car (DO NOT START IT) and use a paper clip or a piece of wire to jump terminal A & B. DO NOT TRY TO START THE CAR.
You will see the SES (Service Engine Soon) light flash out a code. It will flash out each code three times.
The first code you will get will be a code 12. It will be a single flash, followed by a short pause, then two flashes. It will then pause for about two seconds or so, and flash the code again until it was read out three times.
The code(s) after this will be your trouble code(s). Make sure to have a pen & paper handy to write them down. When you get back to code 12 it is finished.

From there using a Google or site search, you can look up what the codes represent and the have an idea of what is going on with the car.

89Iroc_vert

I'm going to put off the injectors for now. Going to splice the wires, run ohm meter on them to make sure all are functional. Looking at doing a whole tune up on the car. I'm set on MSD wires, and K&N filters but I'm not sure on the plugs and cap and rotor. I kno everyone says go ac delco. Copper ones run 2 bucks which is good for my pocket but since it's such a hassle to remove and replace I was considering a higher quality one. Plats in delco run 6. Bosch and NGK plats run 2.80 and 3. What's do yu guys think? Going to run down the gas so I can pour in some seafoam as well. Any other suggestions or recommendations? I'm also going to run the code test. Thank yu for the instruction Zane.