ThreeOhFive

I want to pick up an old bare bones short block and start building it. After that, a transmission and rear end, basically get a swap ready to go for a roller.

I'm on a budget right now... I'm looking to build a 300hp motor for starters that runs on pump gas. Engine budget, $1,000 to $1,500. I'm thinking a .030 over job, a mild cam, decent heads and intake, and I'm going with a 4 barrell.

Transmission wise, a 700r4 with a stall and shift kit. I need some highway mpg.

Wondering what's you guys had in mind for a decently reasonable build, what I should run with my transmission in terms of a stall or not, shift kit, etc.

Looking for 13's. Shouldn't be too hard right? I need some direction. It's my first build.

92droptopws6

iTrader: (10)

Budget minded 350" engine..
Try to locate a mid 90s truck engine from a 2500 series the generally have 4 bolt mains and hydraulic roller provisions.
Speed pro L2256 pistons w/rings
Machine block
Polish or turn crank
L31 vortec heads, machine for larger springs,screw in studs and 3-angle valve job
Comp cams 286hr10 230 560 110
Edelbrock air gap
Holley 650 dp Carb. or Edelbrock 1407(I prefer a stealthram)
Comp chromoly pushrods
melling oil pump STD.volume w/ high pressure spring
1.6 roller rockers
you will spend some bucks however this is one of many combinations that will get you your goal power and then some with dependability. You did mention fuel economy on the highway going Carb is not the best route but can be done...

DeltaElite121

$1500 will all go towards the short block if you do it correctly...Better off slowly building a 383 over time on a stand than doing it that way, IMO. I've got a 355, but if I ever buy anything new again it's definitely either a 434 or 496 BBC. The whole "it costs the same" idea is definitely a motivator, heh.. The only reason why I have a 355 is because it IS new and I got a sick deal on it.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

An L98 or vortec truck take out would be best option for a motor that runs. Recam the truck motor with lt1 cam and throw on any intake/carb you want and its a 13 sec car with vortecs.

My friends 83 pickup ran 13.5's with lt1 cammed vortec motor. Kid here on this forum ran 11.8-11.9's with a comp cam 288hr vortec longblock. Granted the supporting mods like headers exhaust suspension and trans converter will eat 1500$ easily, motor side doesnt need to be complicated. Just gotta find the right core

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

Any roller truck block with a good cam, and vortec heads/intake. If its in the budget I'd get a little work done on the heads and you'll need a carb intake. You can buy a vortec style carb intake for $200-300 (aftermarket). Pair that with a good exhaust, ignition, and gears.

ThreeOhFive

Problem is, finding a running Vortec 5.7 locally, seems to me people really like those motors. LT1 cam is a good option, you can practically get them for free, too. This setup will be backed with full exhaust.

Right now I'm debating what I should do trans wise. I know I'm looking for a 700r4, definitely a shift kit. Torque converters are pricey for them, though. Maybe just a agressive shift kit and some 3.42's.

Budgetbracket

I finally just found the car I'll be building. Picked up a 82 transam that is a one wheel banana peel I'm not sure of the gear ratio yet haven't had time to take the differential cover off. I do have a set of 3.73 gears laying around and now planning on buying a spoil for the rear end. It may have a th350 in it cause the factory 305 has been swapped for a mild 350 but it could also still have the th200c. Either way I plan on running a th350. I also plan to buy the rear lower control arm bracket relocation and the 8 point roll bar jegs offer for direct fit in 82-92 f body. I read where someone said a 82 had a curb weight of 2900 lbs so if that's true i think I can gut it enough to where it will weigh 2700-2900 with me in it. Researching since this is a street/strip car I'm gonna run 27x10.5x16 MIckey Thompson S/S in the rear and regular smaller street tires in the front. The car actually came with some lightweight knock offs of sport lite racing wheels done on it. I also have a 350 block laying aside bored .30 over. I done have a Holley 750 double pumper that just needs a rebuild kit. I have vortech heads laying around that have done been worked with screw in studs and 1.6 exhaust valve. And the Amazon knock off RPM performer for it, all from a previous build I was gonna do than just changed directions. So with that being said I have the top end and just need to buy stuff for the bottom end so I was looking at the eagle 383 rotating assembly kit and lunanti master bracket 2 cam kit that comes with timing chain and lifters and springs .515 lift. And the chicken chow Mang long tube headers that you can find on ebay. All that was like 1500$ for the rotating assembly break in oil the cam kit and headers. I done have several HEI distributor laying around and if have enough left in the budget probably pickup some MSD spark plug wires. For weight deduction I'm gonna do the Heater/AC delete, rear seats removed, rear crash bar removed, front sway bar removed, motor accessories like ac compressor, smog pump, etc. Let me know what y'all think on this

8t2 z-chev

an intact stock '82 trans am will weigh ~3350-3500 depending on drivetrain and options.

Budgetbracket

Thank you! That seems much more accurate to me

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yup, that's just about right... AFAIK the lightest of these cars, or at least pretty close, are the L69 5-speed cars, with the composite hood, and aluminum drum brakes; and those clock in at 3275 or thereabouts.

F-BIRD'88

My Firebird wa 3330 sans driver. A/C system was removed. no spare. Sbc ,th350. T Top 2.50" dual ex