I have never had this issue because usually it's the other way around but I just rebuilt a motor and my oil pressure is scaring me.
At idle (hot or cold) I'm right around 40-45 PSI, by 3,000 RPM I'm at 60-70 PSI.

I don't know how high it will go because I get scared right around 3,500 RPM and back off the throttle. I'm running 5W-30, oil pump was a stock replacement, re-used the oil filter adapter (maybe the bypass isn't working?), and my bearing tolerances were extremely tight and ranged from .015" (front) and gradually made their way to .025" (rear). I expected high oil pressure but not sure if this is too high.

 

How many miles do you have on the rebuild.

 

0... it has about an hour of running at idle-3,000 RPM. Chasing exhaust leaks, bad fuel lines, timing, and initial tuning.

 

Those #s sound good to me & what I always considered good in my cars. Higher rpm will always + higher pressure & about what my car ran until https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...sure-when.html

 

Thats what my 08 silverado runs for pressure. No need to worry.

 

Awesome, thanks guys. I was just scared cause I've never assembled or measured bearings for a bottom end. Not to mention, I've never owned anything with good oil pressure.

 

this is really cool, I like here!

 

Sounds OK to me. It'll come down some over the first few hundred miles of driving.

Get it out onto the street AS SOON AS POSSIBLE if not sooner. AVOID extended idling for any reason!!! Break in the rings by full-throttle acceleration in 2nd or 3rd gear from about 2000 to about 4500 RPM (heats them up and presses them against the cyl walls), then letting off the gas while leaving it in that gear and letting the engine brake the car speed back down to 2000 RPM (lets vacuum suck fresh oil all into the ring grooves and onto the cyl walls to wash them clean of metal dust). Repeat about 5 or 10 times. Cruise around for a few minutes. Repeat. Repeat the whole cycle several times. NO IDLING for more than a few seconds, no "lugging" the engine in high gear at less than 2000 RPM for the first few miles, no 1st gear blasts simulating a strip pass, no sustained steady light-load cruising. This will pay off in an improved ring seal for the whole life of the engine.

 

Going to be a lot of one wheel peels around town... lol.

 

That's why you use a higher gear and moderate RPM.

 

I should do this before I tinker with any fine tuning (jets mainly) on the carb?
Wednesday I'll have it tagged and start breaking it in. It probably has about an hour of idling overall between timing, rough tuning and trying to fix the temperature issue.