MadSciienTiisT

Well hello all members of thirdgen.org!! im a newbie to the forum and boy do i have a lot to learn!! well, ive used you guys for a year for finding useful info on everything, finally realized and had the time to sign up and pitch in my 2cents! well.. i have somewhat of a problem.. i got a set of procomp pc 3003 sbc heads here.. 64cc comb chambers, 210 cc intake runners, 2.02-1.6 valves. all machined and basically brand new, i also took some time into porting them to match my gaskets.. i currently have a sbc 355 with stock heads, flat tops, summit cam ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K00052/ ) and a edelbrock performer intake with a holley 600cfm carb. 700r4 tranny and i have got no clue what gears.. most likely stock rear end is all i know. what can i possibly do with what i got? bigger cam maybe? bigger carb? bigger stall? not ganna be a daily driver.. more like weekend or once a week driver.. im only 19 and im teaching myself what i can when i can.. and really dont know much details or how to piece together parts that will work good together.. any suggestions? i dont wanna spend a fortune..

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

gear ratio would be good to know. Also what do you want to get out of it? Meaning what do you want it to do? How much do you want to spend?

Roughly I'd say change the heads, headers, dual exhaust if you can, trans pak for the 700r, bigger carb 650 (or maybe a 750)? MSD and a good coil would be nice. it says cam works with stock converter. Good wires.

Gears at about 3.42.

Roller rockers if you have the money.

MadSciienTiisT

i think i have 3.08s or 3.42s limited slip or open diff.. i would like to get the best bang for my buck. 350ish at the wheels maybe? i have hooker procomp shorty headers and true duals. will get a msd though! that goes on the list first.. what does the trans pack do? and i have brand new wires. i also have a 3.73 posi sitting in my garage i have yet to put in. and roller rockers will help that much?

midias

What was your car originally V8 V6? What trim, was it always auto?

I don't think I would go 3.73 with a 700R4 the first and second gear gap is a bit much with 3.73

MadSciienTiisT

It originally had a 305 with 155hp.. my car either has 3.08 gears or 3.23s.. and im not sure what trim package it has.. it has z28 everything but vins in the center console dont match the vin in the windshield.. and it has iroc seats.. so.. i dont know if it was pieced together before i got it. what gearing should i have? should i change the tranny to a t400 if its possible? idk.

midias

155hp z28 auto = 3.08

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

I'm putting together a package around the same ProComp heads that you have. Look in this section and search for my post... I'm expecting around 425-440 at the crank

MadSciienTiisT

awesome now i know that i have 3.08s... now i wanna try and use the 3.73's but are the 3.08's good enough for what im doing?

MadSciienTiisT

yes i checked that thread out.. very useful! except i dont have an lt1 intake and i dont know what difference that will make.. i have a performer intake.. i was thinking about getting an airgap dual plane or dominator single plane.. not exactly sure which would be best for my situation.. and i dont think i have a stock bottom end.. i may. i only have a 2 bolt block so i dont know how much it will hold up

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

I think you'll be better off with a dual plane since with your gears and cam you want to stay on the low side of rpms. Also no stall converter. If you have a performer rpm you could keep that but I am a fan of air gap style intakes. You may not gain enough going from a performance rpm to the air gap dual plane for the cost.

You did say you wanted to go easy on the money. Now if you want to spend more the options really change.

On the 2 bolt block it should be fine but that depends on your driving style. I have done things with a two bolt 350 back in the early 80s that would surely get the
"BS" posts going and I am sick of those people so I won't go there (I post less due to that). But, it held together until the rings gave out. I am telling you that it should have scattered parts all over the road and didn't. That said if you are going over 450 hp and plan on over 6000 rpms, I would recommend you get a stronger block since it is your money we are all spending. But I'd run the two bolt myself and let the parts fly. Oh, I would definitely get it balanced.

MadSciienTiisT

no idea how to get a block balanced.. anyway so i will keep the 2 bolt block and keep my intake as a performer. switch to those procomp heads, then what cam should i use? im thinking of a roller tip rocker set as well. all thats left for this build is a cam, roller rockers, and carb. i have no idea what cam i should use.

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

On balancing bring your crank, rods and pistons, flywheel, bring them to an engine machine shop and tell them you need it balanced. 75 to 100 bucks I think. Worth the money.

On the cam others can help you more on off the shelf picks. Unless I am buying stock I get custom ground cams. Costs a little more but the only way to go in my book. Also worht the money.

But if you want off the shelf I'd recommend one made for the rpm range that your intake is in. Now, I make no claims as to what hp you'll get. I just like matching everything.

MadSciienTiisT

i believe my block has already been balanced, bottom end was assembled at the machine shop so do they do it onevery build they do? i asked if they could do everything they needed to with what i got so far.. and where do i get a custom ground cam? id like that haha

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Depends on the shop if it is balanced. Could go either way unless they said.

The last cam I ordered came from CamMotion in Baton Rouge. I was very pleased. I do not know if they still custom grind but they do make their cams in house.

http://www.cammotion.com/Camshafts-C119.aspx

They will need info like:
Vehicle weight
gear ratio
compression ratio (they'll want a number or you can maybe tell them piston size, stroke, valve relief cc, head gasket thickness, head chamber size, etc)
rpm range you want
carb size
etc etc.

I'm sure they can give you a list.

But I see CompCams does it too at no extra charge
http://www.dragzine.com/news/new-pro...-extra-charge/

Comp Cam will also recommend a cam for you
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/C...amHelpNew.aspx

ANd even better yet here is a cam recommendation software from comp cam
http://www.camquest.com/

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

Another way to choose parts to get close to a certain hp would be to try to mirror the specs of a crate engine.

MadSciienTiisT

you are the fricken best man!! i love learning all this **** and actually getting anwsers of some kind. ill let you know how it all turns out!! and ill keep updating as i go along

DeltaElite121

Call Lunati and talk to Steve... either that or call Bullet. They will custom grind your cams and I've been more than pleased with their help so far.

Figure out what you want to do with your car first, THEN worry about ordering the cam.

MadSciienTiisT

how do i know how much valve to piston clearence i have to be able to know how much lift i can get?

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

With what you have if you get a can to match you'll be fine

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

I can assure you their are much more knowledgable people here than me. I am old school for sure.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

They have the same runners and therefore flow exactly the same as the regular Performer RPM intakes. The air gap is a gimmick in my opinion, though it does look really cool, which may well be worth the cost if you're buying new from scratch. But if you already have a Performer RPM I wouldn't worry about it.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ech/index.html

the formula for horsepower is (Torque*RPM)/5252 for ft lbs
(4 lb/ft*5500)/5252 = 4.1hp

And that's best case scenario, after sustained 20 seconds of wide open throttle that flows enough fuel to cool it off the maximum amount. Not really a realistic scenario for street driving or racing, really.

If your car weighs 3500 lbs with you in it, and your engine makes 300hp with a Performer RPM. Then the best case scenario with the airgap with the extra 4 hp at 5500 RPM is...

3500 lbs, 300hp = 13.21@101.42
3500 lbs, 304hp = 13.15@101.87

The ET/MPH differences would be smaller if I used the article's 450hp 383 as a basis...

3500lbs, 450hp = 11.54@116.09
3500lbs, 454hp = 11.51@116.44

Maybe that's worth the extra money to a little extra gain in special situations, but it's up to you. it is, in certain situations, a little extra power. That does count for something. But it just depends on your budget.

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

BTW, I'm swapping from the LT1 intake to the Vic Jr. w/ a Edeljunk 750 carb... It moves the power band up a few hundred RPM