Got a ? I have a 69-78 350block with upgraded vortec heads .525 lift and edelbrock performer rpm intake carb setup going in a 89rs with a 700r4. What I need is a good cam for sreet/strip (no racing) want good low end torque and want to take advantage of the increased allowable lift. A nice lope is never a bad thing. I guess I'm asking what kind of cam profie should I be looking for? There are literally thousands of cams out there and I plan on only making this purchase once. In sorry if this is on the wrong board.

 

Comp XE268 or Lunati 60102

 

I second the XE268. My buddy has that in his car with a very similar setup to yours (vortec heads on a 70s 355) and its a torque MONSTER. You wont be disappointed.

 

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060arpm these are teh heads adn springs that I purchased will the springs have to be changed? I hope not! but I need expert advice. thanx!

 

Doesnt sound like it. Sounds like your all set with the springs.

 

Comp XE268 I looked on jegs what does it mean by it is computer controlledbecause this car will be a carb. oh and i checked out the xe268 on youtube it sounds incredible, would it be too much tko go just a little more aggressive aka (lopey)? and what would I look for more lift or more duration or more degree of separation?

 

It's plenty aggressive.

"Lope" is a side-effect of something else, not a goal in itself. Specifically, it's the result of a cam designed for VERY high RPMs, causing total inefficiency and poor running at LOW RPMs. It is THE OPPOSITE of what makes a street-driven car run good.

Make your choice: best power, or "lope". One or the other, can't have both. And let me tell you, it SUX to sit at a stop light with a car that "sounds" like it's going to tear something's head off, and then get your butt handed to you by a minivan, or some old lead sled like my 74 Caprice. Yes, it can happen to YOU if you make unwise choices.

Here's the XE268. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-242-2/ It is DEFINITELY NOT computer compatible. It has exactly how much lift and duration you are looking for. About half of all the magazine builds you see use it, for good reason; it is just about THE PERFECT match for the characteristics of the heads... which is how you pick a cam to begin with; NOT by "lope". Unless of course, all you're trying to do is impress 8-yr-old boys in parking lots during "sq in of chrome" contests, and don't mind if the car doesn't actually has enough nads to pull itself back up onto its trailer without a winch. Yeah that SUX too... ever seen a "monster truck" like that? Pretty sad I assure you.

 

ok i guess i did sound like a 10 year old kid when i said that and believe it or not I thank you for telling me to get my head out of my butt. So that is what i needed to know and thank you once again. push rods and lifters? and does anyone know of this cam hopefully a set on ebay or somewhere for a pretty good deal?

 

1. pushrods http://sdparts.com/category/comp-cams-pushrods?page=1

2. double roller t-chain http://www.ebay.com/itm/230683235583...84.m1497.l2649

3. lifters http://www.ebay.com/itm/300672428204...84.m1497.l2649

what do you think will this work? i got kind of confused about the pushrods (length,and guide plates and hardness) so please help me out before i buy please. oh and is there anything else that has to go with the timing chain that is missing?

 

Pushrods are the last thing you buy. Get a measuring pushrod and some checking springs and see what lenght you need. There is no way that you or us or anyone else can tell what length pushrod you need without checking it first.

 

Ok, I will get the lifters and timing chain for right now thx

 

question
going from 305tbi to a vortec 350 carb short block and got asked a question about balancing the crank how do I do this? what about flex plate fly wheel? and I need info. on checking rod side clearance

 

If this is your first engine rebuild i would recommend having a machine shop bolt together the bottom end and do all the machining. There are a lot of clearances that need to be checked and rechecked to make sure they are dead on. I have a sheet with all the clearances in my engine from the machine shop showing that each clearance in my motor was within a .001 of eachother or more (dont quote on that).

Basically unless you have a full machine shop at your disposal and know how to do things such as balancing rods and the crank and doing clearances, degreeing the cam and such...i would highly recommend spending the money for a machine shop to do the bottom end.

 

I understand that the short block that I bought is:
Fresh 40 over 350 block 2 bolt main with arp main studs
Bored and honed with torque plate, decked
Brass freeze plugs with clevite cam bearings
Cast crank turned 10/10 with clevite main bearings
Rebuilt rods with arp wavelock bolts and clevite bearings
Speed Pro Hyperutectic flat top pistons with speed pro moly rings
Assembled with all clearances checked

the man I bought it from cot it back from the machine shop before I bought the only thing that he left to the buyer is heads, cam, dizzy, and induction. but in the engine swap forum a guy said t hat I still needed to check the "rod side clearance" so I'm just trying to collect some info. on that. oh and the short block was assembled when I bought it it seems that it was in fact put together by a shop just as he said according to all the checks that I have done so far, its just been about two years and I'm just trying to make sure that it is still OK.

 

If it was done by a reputable shop (as in if you have a receipt from the guy) id say just bolt a set of heads on and run it. For piece of mine double check the torque on all the bolts including the oil pump bolt and just run it. Chances are everything was done by the machine shop if it looks nice and fresh and turns over easy by hand.

 

and it does turn over easy no binding no scrubing i have to use some force but not alot thanx guys

 

Yea that sounds normal.

 

hey please help me Will my harmonic balancer off of the 305tbi work on this vortec 350 carb?

 

never mind it did!

 

I got a Comp Cams High Energy 268h

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ory_Code=HFTHE

I'm very happy with it. Little lope at idle but very strong midrange and it pulls hard right to 5500. Even right off idle it pulls pretty hard.
Mines on a carbed 350 with a Holley 670, Edelbrock intake and headers.