Jon87Z28

So it's been a LONG time (probably close to 10 years) since I've done any major mods. All the mods I have so far are external. I'm getting a major itch and have been inspired by this article: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...s/viewall.html
and I would like to pretty much take the same road plus do an engine rebuild since the engine would be opened up anyway.

I'm looking to do everything in this article (with a couple other small upgrades) plus I will be purchasing an engine rebuild kit.

Does anyone know a mechanic or shop in the New Jersey area that is known for their good work with engine rebuilds? I'd also be looking to have it bored and the upgraded heads milled a little as the article suggests. (This isn't relevant to the above mechanic search, but I will also be getting the transmission rebuilt, new torque converter, a new Moser rear with disc brakes and probably 3.42 gears, and upgrading the suspension...then I'll move onto the interior).

Jon87Z28

I think I'm going to check into this shop. Looks like a good place. I'll probably take a ride out there some day and see what they have to say about my project.

http://www.eddiesvalvegrinding.com/index.html

gmstrong

For the tansmission this guy up the road from me in sj is very good with trans and his prices are very fair.good deal transmission in tunersville,nj.Some people would just recommend a crate motor rather then rebuilding a motor these days.

89RsPower!

for the money you'd spend paying someone to do all that work for you it would be cheaper to buy a zz4 and simply pay someone to drop it in if you arn't up to the task.. Just something to think about, get a few price quotes and go from there..

89RsPower!

A good question to be how much do you have set aside for your project? I'm guessing at least 10k unless you're doing the work yourself?

Jon87Z28

I had someone in mind for the transmission, but if that doesn't work out then I will check into the guy in SNJ. Distance could be an issue...but thanks for the idea.

Yes, I too figured it would be a 10k project with what I'd like to do. This may sound crazy (or stupid by some), but I'd like to keep the original engine block. (To save a few bucks, I'm assuming I can reuse my Edelbrock headers and intake manifold as there is nothing wrong with them.) I'm not looking to make a supercar but a nice little cruiser to have fun with. If the power numbers are accurate in that article, than it's way more than I would have expected and I'd be perfectly happy with that output.

I guess another question would be, besides rebuilding the trans are there any other necessary upgrades I would have to make to the trans considering there will be a large increase in power?

89RsPower!

The power output numbers in that article should be taken with a grain of salt. First off they are crank #'s on a stand without accessories, no drivetrain loss and no exhaust restrictions as they're running open longtubes. Also IIRC the peak numbers were rather far up there in the rpm range which on a well prepped short block is very possible, however doing the same with a factory bottom end will likely lead to failure.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

I skimmed through the article...If all you're doing us heads, cam, intake and carb, do it yourself. Get a good torque wrench and all your parts and fluids together and be done before supper.

Good luck getting that are gap to fit under the stock flat hood- you'll need a drop base at the very least.

I applaud your efforts- my 40 over 305 is enough to scare off and/or spank most of my challengers to date. Traction is my biggest issue now.

89RsPower!

forgot to mention, you don't bore a block to increase CI (or performance), the only reason you bore a block is to clean up the cylinder walls. If you can get away with a quick hone you'd be foolish to remove more metal. Boring a block doesn't increase output in any significant way if at all, nor does it make your 305 anything other than a rebuilt 305, that's like calling a 350 anything but a 350 just because it was in bad enough shape to require machine work to the cyl walls.

89RsPower!

Also, I was looking on craigs list for nj last night (I live in central NJ), there is a complete LS1 + wiring harness, pcm, and 4l60e with 16k on the clock for 4 grand obo. If you have the money you would be LIGHT YEARS ahead as far as performance, fuel economy, driveability, potential, etc. The stock LS1 is already making the same power as the engine in that article in stock form, with little more then a cam and tune it would surpass that combo and leave it in the dust (around 400+hp to the wheels) If you'd like the link let me know.

Jon87Z28

Hawk - I have a high rise aftermarket hood, hopefully it has enough clearance.

89 - I did notice that too, the major increase in numbers was at high rpms. It is still a significant improvement with a stock engine at 150 crank (article), 165 mine stock vs the article reaching 372 crank, for the sake of argument let's say 350. I'd say that's a pretty sweet gain. Driving it I would imagine would be the only way to know.
That craigslist offer is pretty good. I'd be concerned about how it runs or any problems with it despite the low mileage. I'd also hate to make a pressured decision especially considering my intention has always been to keep it original, or at least the block. Tempting tho.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

You'll still be ahead in EVERY POSSIBLE WAY by switching to a Gen III setup.

IF you dont want to swing that kindo f money, but a 6.0 truck engine. You'll be so far ahead of the curve you wont even remember taking it by the time you get done. Spending money on a 305 will get you about as much return on your money as throwing it into a bucket and dumping it in the gulf of mexico.

The problem with 305's is to make power with small cubes you have to spin them REALLY high. This destroys drivability and practicality, and also severely shortens engine life and durability, and that's assuming you go through the trouble of completely rebuilding the bottom end and using very expensive, very high quality parts down there. IF you dont bother with beefing up the bottom end, it wont last very long at all.

But hey, if that's what you want, go for it.