86Stevo

hey guys i finished up my 3rd gen camaro and took it down the track my freind is his 07 mustang beat me we both have 300hp.

this is my question n any ideas on how to help would be awsome

my 1/4 mile was 14.9@98mph was my best
His 1/4 mile was 14.3@99mph (he did break into 13.9 idk what mph i think 100)

any ways how come out speed is very close but times are way off?

my reaction was .500
his was .300-.200 << i now this is wear i can shave some seconds off


also how can i get into 13`s with this ? i have a posi rear with 3.23 GM 290hp crate with shorty headers 3inch single exhaust hi flow cat and MSD ignitoin

i pumped up my front tires a little higher then normal to help wit drag and i also reduced air in the back tires to help for traction but my problem is half was threw first gear i kept spinning i tryed launched differently and no luck
i tryed @3500 like my freind was no luck
i tryed @2000 car bogged down a little bit
i was launching @2500 but like i siad my tires were spinning

any tips would be great... oh also i was running on 89 octane i put 92 in after words and i can feel its faster so imma try that but any tips for getting more traction would help.

oh yeah we were both on regular street tires

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

you running tpi?

86Stevo

no carb 600cfm edlebrock performer i have a clabration kit also so i can richen it up a little or lean it out, idles better with a smaller jet and smaller rod (number 2 i think on the chart form edelbrock #1406)

bracket rs

iTrader: (2)

remember reaction time wont change e.t

86Stevo

no ?? when does the timer start ? i always thought reaction time was part of ur overall time in the 1/4

AlkyIROC

Reaction time only matters when you're in a bracket race. Your ET timer doesn't start until you break the starting beam. The light can be green and you can sit there for 10 seconds if you want and the timer hasn't started.

In a bracket race, both cars are dialed in to run as close to their dial in as possible. If one car has a slow reaction time, the other can be farther off it's dial to take the win.

In a heads up race based on both your performances, even if you had a perfect light, you still wouldn't have beaten him. You may have a better chance if you had sticky tires. Street tires belong on the street. The only time they'll actually work good enough for a dragstrip is when they're new. Put 1000 miles on them and they'll probably be garbage at the track. Buy some slicks and mount them on another set of rims to be used only at the track. Even driving on the street with DOT slicks will dry them out too much for track use.

A torque converter around 2400 will work well with a stock cam and will decrease your ET. Going to a little deeper gear will also help. 3.73 is normally the deepest you want to go with a street engine. Of course getting more power to the wheels still comes back to getting power to the ground. Sticky Tires!

Total HP between both cars means nothing. You're comparing apples to oranges.

Read this
http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/hpandtorque.html

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

I *think* it works like this--
Reaction Time is exactly what it says-your reaction to the last amber changing to green.
The time starts as soon as your front tires break the beam.
Your E.T. is the time from breaking the beam @ the tree to breaking the beam @ the stripe.
A hole-shot win is being first off the tree & not loosing by more than the difference between you @ the stripe.

I'm not too good at math, but look @ your time slip. It will show your speeds @ different intervals. When you learn how to read it, you will be able to see where you slow down ( maxed out power ) & where you run strong I. Tour power band.
SFCs, drag radials may be a big help!!

86Stevo

yea i understand there is alot to be as far as compairing the two cars but my main concern is the fact that we both ran the same MPH or vary close 98 me and 99 him
but yet almost 3/4 of a second differance so it pretty much comes down to me loosing trackton in the 60' area? because i no i have more TQ then he does and i no street tires dont help much on the track but it is what i got for now.

plus running slicks im worried about blowing the trans or rear its only the little stock T5 trans and a 10bolt rear ( dunno how much those 10 bolts hold up to)

oh ya both cars are 5 spds posi rears

any tips ? maybe skipping the burnout ? launching in second? or just dont put the pedal to the floor as soon as i am going?

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

AlkyIROC is just as fast typing as be is on the track!! Lol!!

neeb_usmc

iTrader: (2)

373 and spray. : )

86Stevo

haha wish i could but im tight on cash now a days....maybe winter it will get a head swap 62cc`s with some 190 intake runners should put me around 400 wit the right cam but thats a big maybeeee need traction to go fast.

mjwadams

One word: Suspension. If you are spinning your tires on launch, that is power that is being thrown away. Keep in mind that your car is 20 years old while the Mustang is only 4. Unless you have completely upgraded your suspension, most of the parts you have are worn out and wasting your power. Truth is, based on your times and speed, you probably have more horsepower than him. It is just that you can't get it to the ground. An excellent article is here http://web.archive.org/web/200901162.../spo/mods.html

When I upgraded my suspension (Posi, Koni shocks, Moog front-end rebuild kit, Sub-Frame connectors, wonderbar), you wouldn't believe the difference! When my mechanic installed the new shocks, I also had him replace a lot of other worn components like tie-rods, etc.

A good source for suspension parts is http://www.spohn.net

86Stevo

thanks but i put new GR2 shocks n struts all the way around just ran out of money when it came to tires thanks for the advice and the links guys ill look into things and look into new tires maybe next time i go ill drop the pressure down more from 25 to 20 or 18 dont wanna go to low tho .... or ill just smoke the crap outta my tires durring my burnout lol thanks guys

AlkyIROC

Street radial tires don't work with low air pressure. They're not a wrinkle wall tire. The steel belts won't allow the tire to roll over the sidewall. Lowering the pressure only causes the center of the tire to lift off the surface. It's trial and error but many times a radial tire works better with more air pressure. All depends on what air pressure you currently run.

86Stevo

Alright next time ill play with the air pressure more until I can get some decent tires on my car thanks for the info I might be going wensday to the track ill keep u guys posted what my times are.

Gallileo60

What he said.......Believe me, do the suspension first, then worry about the power 1000 HP is no good if you cant get it to the ground....I did my 89 the right way, I started at the back, and worked my way forward...SFC's, Control, and Panhard, Harder bushings, maybe a way to adjust pinion angle, all will help to gain traction..Get weight off the nose, and more to the back...My 89 305 TBI eats my 92 350 Z for lunch off the line...Try disconnecting your front sway bar also, will help weight transfer some what.Good luck, and bust that Mustake, er Mustang..

torque_is_good

2005-2010 S197's have junk LCA's as well. E.T. is reduced when they are replaced so watch out if his buddy does it too.