I'v searched and found a few threads on this but no answers.

When I am driving and I give it gas under load, there is a rattling sound coming from the engine bay. Hard to explain the sound, but if you ever heard a ford E series van accelerate it sounds kinda the same. It is only under load though. If I am coasting and I give it a little gas just to keep going it doesn't do it. But, if I want to speed up it does it.

Also, if I have the car just running in park idling, sometimes there is a rattling. At first there isn't one, but after a few minutes it starts to rattle. I can't tell where it's coming from. Any help?

Last thing...When I try to start the car after it has been sitting for at least an hour, it cranks over 4 or 5 times before it starts. It starts right up after it's been driven.

Thanks guys!

 

I have no idea on the "rattling sound". But let me mention a few things ...

1) I just had a terrible rattling sounds on brother-in-law's Jeep - I crawled under while it was idling, had him gun the gas a few times - turns out to be loose flywheel bolts - I removed the plastic bellhousing dust shield, and tightened each bolt one at a time, rotating the engine with a very slight starter 'bump' to get the flywheel rotated to the next bolt to reach. Took me about 10 minutes. Might look at those.

2) If it's only under accelleration - maybe it's an exhaust leak? Sometimes that will sound kinda like a rattle (more like a loud ticking usually). When engine cold, check exhaust manifold bolts for loose ones.

3) If a ticking better describes, might be a ticking valve or a sticky lifter - you could try adjusting valves - easiest to do when running - loosen a valve until it ticks, and then retighten slowly just until the tick is gone, then another 3/4 turn after.

On the starting - check the fuel pump relay to see if it's working. Driver side, on the firewall, between brake booster and fender - there is a bracket there, with relays on the inner (firewall) side. One is fuel pump relay, other(s) are fan. The fan relays have large blck wit hred stripe wires to them. Located fuel pump relay, get it off the bracket, and hold it in your hand while someone turns on the key - you should feel it click. (BTW, we're trying to determine if the fuel pump is priming - you could also place ear against fuel tank and listen for the pump while someone turns key).

If pump not priming/relay not clicking, mark the fp relay (so you know which relay is the 'questionable one'), then swap a fan relay for it and see if the pump primes then. If so, then you need a new relay. If not, then maybe the connector/wiring to that relay is bad, look for burned/scorched marks on the connector.

If it's not a fuel pump priming issue, might look at the ignition module - it's located under rotor button inside distributor. They can be tested at most auto parts stores for free. They get rusted bottom plate on them over time, creating too much resistance, they overheat, and die. If you replace, make sure the new part comes with dielectric grease, and make sure to use it per instructions.

Good luck - hope any of that helps!

 

Never thought about the fly wheel. I'll have to try tightening those. I also tighten up the exhaust bolts too. I think the pump does prime when I turn the key to ON. So, i'm not sure about that one..

Thanks!

 

I'm going to try and see if I can tighten up the flywheel bolts tomorrow after school. ALl I have to do it remove the dust shield and i should be able to tighten them?

 

Yep - helps to have someone around to 'bump' the starter so you can get to each one without having to manhandle the TC around. That way, you can kinda see.

When I did it alone once, I stole a bottle of the wife's fingernail polish - and painted a dot on the bolts after I tightened, so I knew which ones I missed.

 

Aren't the bolts supposed to be tightened down to a certain torque spec? Or did you just tighten them to what you felt was good?

 

I just tightened the hell out of them.

 

check the heat riser in the passenger side manifold , they can rattle around sometimes , it runs off vacuum so u can just put vacuum to it and see if it hold it .

 

Today I tried tightening the flywheel bolts and they were all tight. You can hear the rattle when it is running then when you shut the engine off you hear a sound like something loose is rattling around. I was told it could be a cracked flywheel? How could that be?

 

did u check the exhaust manifold gaskets?

 

How would the gaskets cause a rattling sound? Or how would I check that?

 

its hard to check the gaskets. Have you checked the manifold bolts? You could change the gaskets just to be sure there arent too expensive and if you buy the 3 piece ones you can just loosen the bolts rip your old gasket material out and slide in new gaskets without even taking the bolts out. (if all the old gaskets comeout and dont stick to the head or manifold.

 

I have gone over everything posted on here and the only thing it seems to be is a cracked flywheel. This sound you can hear loud inside the car but while outside and you drive by you can't hear it. Idling, you can ehar it under the car if you listen. I don't know what to do.

 

my dad told me on the older 350's the exhaust leaks and makes the sound you seem to be describing. i think (don't quote me) it is the rear passenger right side?

to torque the flywheel nuts, use the german torque spec, guttentite. (say it outloud)

 

I'll have to take a look at the exhaust. I already checked the bolts on the flywheel and they were good and tight.

 

We figured out the rattling sound. It is from the catalytic converter. The catalyst inside is broken apart and rattles around. You can ehar it by just hitting it. I'm going to knock it all out.