mikeirocz1

iTrader: (1)

I live in south Houston, Tx and the summers are pretty warm here. Is a 10-30 oil good to run or should I switch to something else? I'm running a synthetic blend right now. The car isn't a daily driver, mainly the weekends. I only have around 6,000 miles on the motor and mainly city driving.

Gumby

I like it thick, so when Im beating on it n its screamin hot I know I got good cushion between parts.

I use 20/50 dino yr round

for those who will poo poop it, ever drain 20/50 when at engine temp, flows like water.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

I second the 20/50 vote in hot climates. Always have run 20/50 & have yet to have an engine failure on any of my cars, in 24 years.

mikeirocz1

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I was thinking about running. I tried to run Royal Purple when I first built the motor and it leaked out of the oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover and so on. Not sure if it was because it was new, the Royal Purple was like baby oil. I switched oils and didn't have any problems. I might be able to run full synthetic now that I have about 6000 miles on it. I would hate to spend the money on full synthetic and it leak. Maybe I should go with the synthetic blend??

jharrison5

I run full syn in all my vehicles and have never had an issue, but that is just from my exp.

Gumby

I tried full syn 20/50 in my V8 car and didn't like it, if it sat for more then a day the lifters made a racket till pumped back up. Went right back to dino and that went away. Which only after several day will that happen but its very light n quiet.

But ditto never a problem with it, Firedbird is up to 230,000 and still runs strong.

mikeirocz1

iTrader: (1)

Whats "dino", conventional oil? Would a 15W40 be okay to use? The car sometimes sits for a week or so without being started, don't know if that matters or not on the grade selection.

Gumby

Yep good old clean energy reg dino oil.

The sun grew the plants, that feed them and then they died and turned into oil.

Can't get any greeniers then that.

torque_is_good

uugggghhhhhhhhh

opinions about oil is a dead horse that seems to keep getting beat

lemme see- you gotta use royal purple full synthetic or amsoil etc etc blah blah

dino oil is no good blah blah

first, the myth about multiple viscosity oils and that pure 30 weight is better to run than 5w30 or 10w30; hogwash

Or, you need 20w50 in "hot climates" again; hogwash

you need the higher viscosity when you are running your engine constantly at high rpm's.

let's look at a 5w30 oil; it is a 5w oil with polymers that flows like a 30w when it's hot. What kills the 5w30 oil is thermal breakdown and that happens by running at constant high rpm's or using the oil way beyond its effective life, perhaps 300 hours or more (note i said hours of use, not miles because an engine could care about how far, it's for how long that matters)

Ask a marine mechanic to better understand hours of operation

Your engine also has a cooling system. It works even in warm climates. We know that multi viscosity oil flows and protects and that if you aren't turning 5k rpms and more for most of your driving, that a 30 or 40 w oil is just fine.

So, what about the heat??? Let's look at the flash point of oil, or, when it emits gas that could be ignited. Castol GTX (a good name) 20w50 flashes at around 440 degrees F. Quaker State 5 w 30 at a little over 400 degrees.

When you start getting into the synthetics such as Amsoil they flash at around 500.

So, look at your demands that you place upon your engine and decide what's best for you. I run synthetic tranny fluid but do not use synthetic motor oil. I run 5w30 in Florida in my imports, in my stang, in my 4th gen and in my 3rd gen

i have no worries about heat. I am only concerend about flow after initial start and thus why I've used a 5w something for a long time.

Now, if I were running a race car, I'd probably run synthetic so I'd have a modicum of protection until oil pressure had built. Race engines are a different beast than street engines.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Can you prove that?

If automobile engines were grown by the sun, then perhaps a "green" product would be appropriate...

10W-30 is fine. Quality synthetics are less prone to break-down under heat, so that makes the choice pretty simple in my mind.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

i run plain Castrol 10w 30 year round.
its what the previous owner used for the first 92K and what i've used for about the last 200+K.
after i changed jobs last summer, my car sat for 5 weeks without being started. that first start after sitting up was like any other start, no rattles, tics, or any other strange noise.

i did give royal purple a try, i didn't notice any improvement in performance or fuel mileage. so i went back to Castrol.
i'll mention that before i changed jobs, i could get royal purple for free, but i had to buy Castrol like everyone else.

Gumby

Thats what science says, coal is the plants, oil is the Dino's.

Making all fosile fuel green as they were made with solor energy.


Plus God made dirt so dirt don't hurt and oil comes from dirt, so when Im done with mine I just pour it right back where it came from.