bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I am trying to put together a 'parts list' so I can start gathering pieces for a 350 build. I am looking more for reliability and budget friendly parts, rather than tire melting performance parts. I would obviously enjoy having more power than my current LG4 engine, but thats not the main point of the swap. I have been trying to research various aspects of engine combinations, and here is what I hope I can do. I would like to find a good shortblock from craigslist, or something like that, that has a solid rotating assembly for the base of the build. I have 3.42 gears in the rearend, and will be using a 700r4 most likely.

I would like to use:

-My current 305 heads, they should be 416 castings and I've read can work well on a 350. I also read that if the 350 has dished pistons I can use regular pump gas, but if it has flat-tops, Premium is what I'de have to do.
-COMP Cams 12-238-2 Camshaft, Duration 262/270, Lift .462/.46
-Holley 670 Carburetor
-Edelbrock Performer Intake
-Streetfire HEI Distributor
-I'de have to use my stock manifolds/exhaust because its all I have for now, but I plan on upgrading to long-tubes down the line.

So the parts I would have to buy are:
Shortblock- $200 / GM off CL
Timing Set- $17 / Cloyes C3023
Oil pump- $17 / Sum-121155SV
Gasket kit- $46 / Fel-Pro QKS2600
Camshaft- $116 / COMP Cams 12-238-2
Lifters- $48 / Sealed Power ZHT817

and of course I'de have to buy little misc parts here and there.

Would this combo work, and work well? I am basically trying to replace the engine in my T/A as simply and budget-friendly as possible.

Thanks!

camaronewbie

Change the Performer intake to a Performer RPM intake, or the Performer Air Gap intake (NOT the Air Gap RPM - it's too tall for a stock hood).

#416 heads would do much better if ported/polished some - you can do it yourself if you have the time - some excellent threads here with instruction. Simple $25 electric die grinder from Harbor Freight, $35 worth of carbide cutter bits, a few days of work. Need to remove valves to do it - but it's time to get new valve seals anyway. $350 at a machine shop will get you a 3-angle valve job with new Viton valve seals. Another $100 and you could buy one size larger (1.94) intake valves and have the intake seats machined for those, making some nice flowing heads for a total cost of $500 and some time. It's something to think about anyway.

Another thought ... your current carb will more than feed that motor, and you can't beat the Quad carb for performance and mileage. The Holley might look pretty, but it'll never perform as well as your current computer controlled setup, and you'll lose in the mileage arena as well. That will save you cash on the distributor and carb (about $500 savings) that could be put into the heads or headers!

Expect to spend at least $500 on those "little things" - it always happens. For instance, if you see wear signs in your rocker arms, they need replaced - might as well spend $100 on some Summit roller-tip rockers, a nice inexpensive upgrade - you could also do 1.6:1 rather than stock 1.5:1 if you're replacing anyway. I'd also use new motor mounts - easy to do now while your there. Things like that will add up quick but is well worth the extra cash now versus the extra trouble later.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the tips, but a few things are on that list because they are what I have to work with. I know that is the worst "reasoning" for using something, but in this case, it is what it is. I wish my car still had the properly functioning quadrajet, stock intake and distributor, but the genius before me decided he didnt like performance and reliability any more, and swapped them out. I have the MSD distributor, Holley, and Performer intake allready (They're on my 305), which is why I want to use them. I have never ported/polished anything before, and I wouldn't want to ruin the only set of heads that I have, lol. I am just looking more for reliability right now, and this will give me reason to upgrade later, and have a functioning engine now. I am not particularly a fan of the performer intake, and its one of those things that I will try to replace with an RPM intake, but I am not counting on it.

Do you think that cam is well matched for what I am trying to accomplish? Will it be a nice cam to drive on the street, with an occaisonal spirited drive? Will I need new valve springs? I dont think so because I got that cam from a build that was for an lg4 with stock unmodified heads.

Thanks!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Incorrect. The "Air Gap" is exactly the same height as the non-AG intake (of the same type).

With that cam, the Performer would be fine. The Performer RPM would allow for future growth, however.

Agreed. Keeping the current carb would be both "simple" and "budget". The Holley would not perform better, and would cause other expenses beyond what has been mentioned (TV cable hook-up, TCC lock-up, for instance).

camaronewbie

Your right - my bad. Performer and Air Gap relatively the same, and both RPM's are the same. I always want to think the RPM Air Gap is taller than the rest - one day I'll remember (maybe).

To OP - Heck yeah, use what ya got for sure! I was thinking you were buying all new intake, dist, carb. Anything can be upgraded/changed later. Definitely spend your time/cash on the bottom end now - even heads are an easy swap later.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Allright, its good to know that I have somewhat of a solid plan going here, lol. I just have a gut feeling that I will need to have a motor waiting in the wings for when my motor decides to crap out.

Out of curiosity, what kind of power will I be looking at here, when its built?

Sparkytfl

Seems to me to be fairly well matched. The stock heads will never flow well enough at high rpms, so with the normal performer and that under-220 cam you're all set to make torque down low and max hp at an acceptable rpm. The more-exhaust-than-intake split cams like that are also good since exhaust sucks on these cars.