Redlinerevver

Hi guys, I am seriously thinking of swapping my procomp's for some afr's what kind of gains would you guys say I would see?

my combos a 350
victor jr intake
750 dp holley
procomp 210 heads
isky .600 lift 240 duration cam
around 9.5 cr with flat top pistons
stock stroke .060 over bore
headman 1 5/8 headers into dual 3" with no mufflers

The weights around 3100 pounds right now I am running 12.10 on motor at around 110. I would like to be running around 120mph in the 1/4 with low 11's.
What do you guys think my car would do if I just swapped out the heads for some new race ready afr 210's with the 2.08 valves and left every thing else the way it is? The weights around 3100 pounds.
Thank you.

Doom86

Given there are a lot of good heads out there at this level I would not go with AFR. Brodix, Dart, Profiler, much better choices.

Profiler 210's cost much less and you will loose nothing over the shiny label you're considering.

cuisinartvette

thats a lot of cylinder head for a low compression 350. It can work but seems a slight mismatch, that and small tube headers. Your et is decent but for 3100 lbs seems the mph could be better.

To pick up 10mph will take a lot.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

What is your DCR ?

Redlinerevver

What is your DCR ?[/quote]

I did the calculator and it came out to around 7.5

I know it sounds like to much head but it feels strong and has power up top.
I would like to just make this motor strong enough to pull 11's on motor and high 10's on around 100/150 shot. I want to go big block eventually but can not afford it right now so I don't want to put to much money in this engine.
My idea was buy some afr's and sell the heads I have.

I also would like to stay with pump gas because the car is street driven.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Give reasons why they are soo much better. You bash AFR for no real reason. I dont get it. They are proven out the box to make good power and when comparing similar quality components, they cost pretty close to the same as all other aftermarket heads.
For this OP's goal of 120 mph traps, he should beable to get there with much less head than 210's anyway at 3100 lbs. But AFR heads have been proven to take cars to that level of performance and beyond so why wouldnt you recommend them over the others which cost about the same? Cost for most heads with good springs/valves/etc are 1300-1500 in 90% of the cases depending on where you get them. Its really a toss up, so no real reason to exclude AFR from Dart/Brodix/Profiler for an application like this.


Profilers are great heads but also have cheaper quality components for the 950-1000 dollar asking price... For a higher spinning 350 valve train components are not something to skip out on. If you get them from Speier Racing he will put in good quality springs/valves etc and will come out closer to 1300 bucks which is about what AFR race ready heads cost these days...depending on who you get them from. Thats the direction I'd go...a head with spring specs to match the cam you need. AFR has some good options, Speier will also setup the springs to match. Brodix/Dart/Others will also have some options and are good heads.


AFR and Profiler 210's have enough cross section to support 400 inch motors into the mid 6000 rpm range and beyond...so they are WAY more than necessary for a 350 with a 240 deg cam. Look to peak in the high 6000 rpm range and shift around 7-7.2K with those heads. I'd get a good custom grind for that. That will get the full use out of the heads.

All that will get you 120 mph traps at 3100 lbs. Infact, you should beable to get there with one of the good flowing 195cc heads with 2.05 or so valve. I dont think you really need a large 2.08 valve for a 350.

InjectorsPlus

iTrader: (1)

I didn't see a bash. Not towing the company line is not a bash. He's just pointing out that perhaps another option would be better. Where is this "bash" coming from? Worship or bash is that it?


People have proven that when you take a set of heads that weren't speced right in the first place and are using 15 year old technology, that when you replace them with new technology and tune the motor correctly there is some improvement. I have never seen anything other proven.

You want to say DOOM is bashing, I have to ask, why are you cheerleading? You are saying AFR is the best head out there for every application and I'm calling bullshit. You simply can not in good faith make that statement.

As there is no reason to EXCLUDE AFR, there is no reason to exclude the others too, wouldn't you say? But that seems to be your position. You go on and extoll the virtues of AFR and how great they are then you say it's a toss up. Stop the cheerleading, forums don't exist to push a brand. They exist to help people out.

No, they are as good as not superior to any of the heads Doom mentioned. This myth of superiority is a bunch of crap. The right head on the right motor is what is important, not the brand.

That's been proven repeatedly to be a bunch of crap. When you outfit AFRs with good components they are the same price as anything else out there similarly equipped with anything other than the cheapest components.

Look, AFR makes a great product. But let's not fool ourselves into saying that they are BETTER or SUPERIOR to any one of those other well known, proven brands. Becasue that's just stupid.

Just as you said at the end there Orr. If AFR is the right fit, buy AFR. If Brodix is the right fit, buy Brodix, etc... etc... etc..... but just don't pick a brand on urban legends.

InjectorsPlus

iTrader: (1)

Those heads are not going to pick you up 10 MPH. Period. If that is your goal, don't waste your time swapping heads.

In fact, NO HEAD is going to pick you up 10MPH alone.

There is no magic here. You're not picking up a WHOLE SECOND by swapping heads. I don't care what brand they are.

Where does this come from? To quote Joe Pesce in My Cousin Vinny.....

"Is this the same guy who sold Jack his magic beans?"......

Re think this before wasting your money. Did you ever really believe that just a new set of heads would pick you up a second? Even .5 second? REALLY?

Your question should not be...."Should I get these magic heads because I want to pick up a whole second"....that is not a search for infomation. The question is flawed.

The question should be..."My car is set up this way...XXXXXXX..... and I want to get from 12.10 to 11.5 or less, what do I have to do"..

That is the difference between validation and information. The question is which do you want?

To which I would respond to find a good chassis shop and make sure your suspension is tweaked.. I have seen guys pick up as much as .7 seconds from nothing more than a chassis tweak.

There may be less expensive and easier ways to meet your goals than ripping off heads.

cuisinartvette

Some cheerlead which is fine. Chevron gas or 76?

Some bash

Some say buy this because I did

Some give advice based on builds and RESULTS they have seen themselves.
Listen to those guys.

jag327

I'm running 210cc procomp 58cc on 332 small block chevy with 373 rear quickfuel 750 carb power valve 2.5 nozzles 35, jets 79/88 pink cams with washers install in between the accelerator springs motor bottom end balance crank rods fly wheel drive shaft, saginaw 3.50 tranny my best time is a 11:18 in the 1/4 mile. I went through 3 cams Schneider race cams did the last cam grind I'm running now. My set runs better with a 108 to 106 cam lube 110 kelp me in the low 12s to high 11s. Make sure the carb set up max miles per-hour it took 12 to 16 runs to really dial in the carb to my set up. It took a few timing set ups to find what works best to. Now getting the power to the ground it a whole other story I made some rods 1" steel with plat forums with thick 1" rubber that fits right in the springs from the rear to the frame that I run with at the track wheels come off the ground now no wheel hops I pull them out when driving on the street.

Just something to thank about carb jetting to motor timing, pull the heads have them check clean the intake side but keep the 210cc size open the exhaust ports up and clean. Match the intake ports to the gasket fel-pro 1206

Some how get the compression up to 10.5 with your set up.

The only thing I did to the procomp heads was clean up the exhaust ports

I sold a pair of the AFR head 195 eliminator 600 lift I paid was $1850.00 and then another $300.00 - $2150.00 for having the oil flow smooth out it was sitting on top of the heads. I sold the heads for $1500.00.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Just look at every head thread where AFR is mentioned. THe first things posted by you or Doom is dont buy AFR. WHY?? They are fine heads for street strip applications, why exclude them? Giving other options is FINE and I said the same thing above. I'm not exclusively cheerleading AFR. I have AFR heads, so do a few friends of mine and they WORK. PERIOD. I like them. I suggest them as they have been good to me and others but I also mentioned DART and Brodix and others have good heads too. But in the end, CNC head to CNC head, they all cost about the same if not MORE for the others. Just go on Summit Racing or where ever else they selll heads. CNC options are 1600+ bucks in some models.

Yeah compared to a factory head to a new aftermarket peice there is almost always an improvement. There also is a performance gain on some applications by simply switching brand heads. Port design, cross sections, valve sizes etc may suit one engine combo better than another. I"ve seen 2 great examples of back to back tests here on this board and corvetteforum showing AFR 195's out the box picking up 10-20whp and equal torque across the entire rpm band over ported Trickflow 195's and I think it was ported Dart Pro 1's 200cc. For that application, it worked well, but both were typical street strip 383's you'd find in most cars, so they are nothing crazy.

I do not state they are the best for every application. I mentioned others as well. I just use AFR as a starting point because they are well known and one of the best heads out the box. I have used them and made great power. Other guys here post their results too. THose numbers dont lie so I recommend them as a starting point. I've seen the other brand heads as cast and they just seem "rough" cut to me and would need a mild port clean up...not something alot of us can do. Head port time + price of the heads makes them same as CNC out the box AFR's. I think the value is there bang for buck.

Exactly, dont exclude AFR and dont exclude the others...i just see AFR excluded between you and Doom all the time for no real reason.

FALSE! Talk to chad speier and look at chevelles.com about profilers with the components you get for 950 bucks complete. Then ask chad to set them up with his good springs/etc. 1295 is what he quoted me. 1495 with his econo-port clean up job. The cheaper stuff may work ok, but I'd not want to chance it. Dont need a cheap valve spring or cheap rocker stud in my motors.


Like I said before, i have the results. I've seen it done with others. They all work well but the application is important. My buddy's 383 with Pro 1's doesnt run near as well as my 383 with AFR's with similar cam sizes but him being carbed, me being EFI. Both in thirdgen camaros, about same raceweight. Application wrong? I doubt it....

jag327

Wow just read the above. I like to make this clear to every I, Heads I have personal experienced with. World Products, Canfield, AFR, TFS, Brodix. Procomp, Trike force, Chevy heads,

AFR heads I bought from summit race total cost was $1850.00 after adding valves to match the springs. I had 4 other set with in 8 year time frame.

I sold my chevy S10 with a set of procomp heads 350 40 over motor tpi set 410 rear truck to this day runs 10:29 in the 1/4 mile.


AFR heads are good heads - but they do cost a lot, I had the AFR 195cc on my 327 the car ran 11:30s best time the only thing I did not like oil standing under the valve covers I had this happen before with the heads and I no a few other drag racer had the something. And I think there's post in thirdgen to about it.

The only thing the brought me to procomp was guys running them making good times I mean 9s 10s 11s and 12s cars

I paid $535 x 2, with Manely valves and springs install. that 2 sets....

The 327 makes dyno power check last year 523 hp at 6200 rpm power don't start until after 3000 rpm the motor will pull to 7500 rpm at the dyno I would not let them take it pass 6200 rpm. I have not valve floats.

The cam I'm running is a split grind.

I think you have a good combo just some find tuning.

The compression getting it will help a lot, and the other things I said above.
I would talk to few other engine builders and check other forums to with your set up and then see if could be better to spend the money some where els in the motor. Just a thought.

keep us posted on what your going to do.

Redlinerevver

Thanks for the info guys. I know there are many different brands out there other then Afr. I have just seen many builds like mine with them putting out good numbers. I'm surprised with the power the procomp's put out for the money. I Didn't mean to start the thread saying will these heads have to give me 10 more mph I was just stating my goals on what I want to do. I am on a tight budget and would like to get into the 11's with under a $1000 put into my combo. If its possible i don't know but it is a goal. my car hooks well and pulls 1.60 60ft times. I have a wide band ratio gauge that was showing around 13.2 at wot during my runs. I am also upgrading my street fire dis to a full MSD 6al ignition. I have thought of doing some porting to the heads i have but I don't want to make them worse by not porting right. I am thinking of a cam swap now with new valve springs. But if I could gain good power by swapping heads and cam and keep my short block the way it is would be great.

Thank you
I really appreciate any Advice I can get.

cuisinartvette

Saw your profile, guessing with 4.56 and the converter your 1/8 is super strong but maybe running out some steam up top. What are your shift points?

Could suggest a few things but none of them would fit budget for the quest for mph.
Being as youre budget only alllows so much if it were me see if you can pick the numbers up some on what you have without making the int port too big, look for a good used SR cam, was thinking a little less gear might help too.

As far as comparing brands its a waste of time as bashers will just jump in and bash and confuse those looking for good information.

Having a mph to be proud of is one thing but seems low ET matters the most?!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

find someone local to clean up the procomps and perhaps rework the victor jr intake as well. Mill the heads abit to get more compression. Along with a good tune there should be good power in that setup with that top end. You could try a new solid roller grind if that isky is an old cam lobe.

jag327

Having a mph to be proud of is one thing but seems low ET matters the most?!

Jetting for mph mean's better ET's.

I have friend with a 460 72 chevelle he could not get the car to run in the 10s no matter what he tried, man so I took his carb and re-jetted 3 times at the track times got better and better with a 850 dp holley the carb runs a little rich but he's running high to mid tens. The carb was holding him back

If it was me - I would save up my money and go with upping the compression 1st.

2nd clean up the procomp heads and match the intake to the fel-pro 1206 gasket.

If you mild the heads down you have to make sure of your valves to piston clearance with a big lift cam. Pistons may have to be notch/valve relief cut deeper.

cuisinartvette

Jetting and tuning can help for sure but he simply needs more of what hes got (imo more motor period). Hp gets mph.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

At 3100 lbs unless he's at high altitude, it should be trapping much more than 110 mph. I've seen alot of milder 350's in heavier cars go faster than 110 mph. I think tune should be played with and then look at the cam/heads/intake... port the intake and smooth out the heads, then put a good cam in it. It needs/wants more compression. Needs more like 4000 stall if turning high 6000 rpm range with those heads.

Doom86

You could mill those heads quite a bit for compression. That cam would probably like a bit more. I'm not a cam guy but I agree it looks a bit low.

Procomps have the thickest decks I've ever seen tested. Chad Speier at SRH milled one .1 and there was more but it was hitting the plug. Not that you would want to do this just good to know how thick that deck is.

When are you shifting and what RPM are you going through the traps?

Orr I do not have the time to reply to your great wall of text individually. A lot of the info you are providing as fact is simply your opinion. AFR heads should only be notable for their advertising power, there is no magic, there is no "out of the box" wizardry. Comparing them to 20 year old castings proves nothing. There's nothing proven about them other then they make horsepower and are expensive (gotta pay for the advertising).

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Who was comparing them to 20 year old castings? I certainly wasnt and this is not my opinion. Facts from actual build results are what I post. You say it yourself, they are proven to make power...what else are you looking for in a cylinder head??

It aint opinion either to compare COST. Just look at what they sell for and look at the other brands. Thats fact that no one can hide. CNC to CNC they are very close to all other heads out there for what you get. They have come down in price alot in the last 5 years +. I paid 1460 shipped to my doorstep. Last I checked, all the other competing heads are in the 1200-1300 range + shipping....thats CLOSE.

There is no magic in the heads. They are heads like everyone elses. The ports are hand crafted by tony mamo and then a CNC program is developed to replicate that port for mass producing. The ports flow well for what they are, and they show that by making good power. yeah yeah flow isnt everything but its one of the many tools needed to develop a head. This is how all heads are done just about...No magic, but the difference is in who crafts the port and how well the CNC machine replicates that. Tony is good, but not the best from what I've seen on the net. Good enough to make a great head for the money tho. The customer service also can NOT be beat.

You say advertising advertising...well i also see Brodix and Dart as well as Trickflow everywhere too...they all do it...didnt know that was wrong..thought they would be trying to sell products....

When I say out of the box, means the ports as they came from the factory. So you order, bolt them on and start motor up. Alot of the cheaper heads are just as cast and ports could use abit of clean up to get best potential. You cant really compare cnc to as cast...not really fair.

Redlinerevver

I shift around 6700rpm trap at around 7000. I picked up a set of 1999 vortec heads I am thinking of having them milled and polishing the ports then get a comp xe 274 cam 230-236 .487/.490 with 1.5 roller rockers. Of course have the heads set up with the correct springs too. Question-- if I get my compression up to 10.5 with these heads and running the 274 cam with a victor jr or a summit stage 3 intake. is it possible to hit mid/high 11's without spray.

here is a video of my car on a 125 shot spaying after the launch. This was on a 95 degree day with the 3" chambered mufflers. I'm not big on doing huge high rpm burnouts. Yes I know my door wasn't closed all the way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kOfC9qC8jw

Doom86

So we're agreeing that they are "just heads", many comparable competitors, but AFR are just a little more $$$. Where's the controversy coming from? Why pay "a little more" for the same thing with a shiny label?

I'm not much for name dropping but Tony Mamo is not the pinnacle of head design. I don't know the guy personally but what racing team does he work with? I know the name of the team the guy behind the Pro-filer heads works with, so does anyone else who watched 5 seconds of professional racing.

Redlinerevver

I keep reading through this thread -- https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...aded-cars.html

Doom86

jag327 seems like his procomp headed s10 had a solid 10 second combo.

I'd bet a good pair of long tubes would pick up the top end (mph!) considerably.

Redlinerevver

yes it did. I don't want to mess with my short block and kinda screwed because the lower compression flat tops. what does Considerably consist of + 2-3 mph.. any one know of any used 1 3/4 heads for sale?

cuisinartvette

Vortec heads with that smaller cam and youll go slower you have a lot of gear and will run out of rpm sooner.

Youre within a few tenths of 11s, Im thinking putting some work into those heads and a little more cam you may just get ther.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats the controversy.. alittle more $$$ is not the case, again it depends on which heads you get and where you get them and with what parts. You chose to immediately exclude them..that was the problem. There is a member here selling the AFR's for 1250... just the same price as some of the others if not cheaper than the other options out there that are CNC'd.

And no, Tony may not be a pinnacle head designer...but he doesnt claim to be nor did I claim him to be...

None of this matters tho... point is you will not gain 10mph in just a head swap although I wouldnt be surprised to see a gain in performance with no other changes other than tuning combined with the AFR head swap.

Right now i'd mess with what you have as there should be alot more in that setup.

cuisinartvette

If you want the BEST out there building you a set of heads be prepared to drop 2-3 times probably more than the cost of a set of those AFRs and at that point it probably wouldnt be a 23 deg street head anymore.

The price of those is dirt cheap, some need to sink too much into a set of any other head to do everything right, add it up then see what a nice out of the box pair runs. So you do a spring upgrade or maybe a shave, so what?
One size doesnt fit all....gotta pay to pay or sit on the sidelines and save some more.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

When you get to that level and need altered angle heads, you arent really talking street car anymore. (not including LSx) 23 deg heads to me are street car and there are alot of great builders making HUGE numbers out of 23 deg type heads. 700+ n/a is doable on 400-434" motors with 23 deg heads. Aint cheap but shows altered angle stuff is really getting out of the realm of street car.

RWB____s

Pardon me for removing part of your response, It has nothing to do with my question I am about to ask.

When you mill the heads and take that much material (.100) off, what does that do to your valve to piston clearance? If you have really big chamber heads you may get away with it, but if not, how much did you have to cut the valve reliefs for valve to piston clearance?

Doom86

There would be problems if you milled that far, that's why I say you wouldn't want to. That was done to see just how extreme you could take it. You want to take off .03-.04 for picking up compression with flat milling.

Redlinerevver it really does look like something is off with your setup. Out of curiosity I ran everything you have through Drag2003 and with poor track conditions it's predicting 11.6 @ 113 w/ 1.7 60'.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

To the OP, What are the full cam specs? Whats the entire time slip look like? 60ft, 330ft, 1/8mile ET and MPH, etc?

Doom, whats it predicting for power and rpm range?

Doom86

(all fly wheel rated)

446 hp @ 6,000 rpm
421 lb-ft @ 4,500 rpm

Changing only compression to 11

475 hp @ 6,500 rpm
443 lb-ft @ 5,000 rpm

Using independent tested flow data found online for the procomp 210's to get those but need full cam data to get a better estimate.

If I had those heads and wanted more power I would be on the phone with Dr.J or Chad Speier both talk of having CNC programs for Procomps with some impressive results.

Just for fun same exact setup with Profiler 210 with independent flow data.

522 hp @ 6,500
464 lb @ 5,500

That's more of a RPM range I would expect with 210cc heads and that cam.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yes, those heads need to be in the 6500+ range to be happy. 195-200's have supported near 7K operation on 350-355's, so 210's are definately enough head to get it done way up top.
Surprised it shows comprssion increases moves peak power 500 rpms more. I was following a discussion on rpm range and compression for a setup and alot of people said compression shouldnt change where it peaks. Not sure where I stand on that.

If you could increase compression it should help out with power anyway and thats always good. I'd redo the cam to peak 6800 on that setup to take advantage of the port size, and if all is tuned, there should be NO problem hitting 120mph and low low 11's, infact should be faster at 3100 lbs (assuming thats with you in it?)

Doom86

I'm not a cam guy but what I hear from them is the compression should match the cam to some ratio/equation. Going "over" does just what you say increases average power but not peak rpm, but going "under" does decrease peak rpm.

There probably is some power hidden in the OP car. Guessing it's valve train or transmission related.

What's the valve train?

ASE doc

Defenitely better lobes and 1 3/4" headers. Consider porting heads and intake and milling your heads when you can afford it. Even deburring and a minor cleaning with abrasive rolls cant hurt those heads. Just dont get too carried away. Compression ratio tends to have less effect at higher rpms but 9.5 is way low for serious power, 10.5 is much better. Improved cylinder filling(cam, headers, porting) increases dynamic compression.

To answer your original question, race ready AFR 210s are very good heads. With the right cam, ported intake and 1 3/4" primaries they will defenitely support mid elevens. The added power will test your car's traction and you may need to readdress your chassis setup.

Redlinerevver

all engine --- with 125 shot
60' 1.73 --- 1.59
330- 4.98 --- 4.63
1/8- 7.74 @ 90.3 mph --- 7.22@94.66
1000' 10.16--- 9.479
1/4- 12.195 @ 110.16 --- 11.393 117.43

I am running 1.6 rockers The cam has more duration then I remembered pry making the whole compression thing worse yet.

Cam Style
Mechanical flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range
3,000-7,200Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
258Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
263Duration at 050 inch Lift
258 int./263 exh.Advertised Intake Duration
288Advertised Exhaust Duration
296Advertised Duration
288 int./296 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.547 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.555 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.547 int./0.555 exh.Lobe Separation (degrees)
106

I might have the heads and cam sold so might be getting new heads and cam after all.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

that cam is WAY too big for that motor combo with how low your compression is. I'd buy whatever heads you're comfortable paying for THEN call bullet cams and have them custom grind you one, figure on getting a quality 4000-4500 stall to go with it for that kind of combo.

jag327

If it was me - going to race this car a lot, more compression in the motor. A keep everything els. The heads you have makes good power just clean them up and port match the intake to fel-pro gasket, clean / smooth out the intake ports of the heads but keep the same 210cc runner size. Work on the exhaust ports.The heads love split cam ground, more lift on the exhaust.

The AFR heads 195 I had on motor ran 11:29s, my set up now 11:18s with the PC CNC heads

My combo, 332 motor 750 quick fuel carb, eldebrock rpm air gap with 2" pacer 4 hole tampered spacer, Schneider race cam split grind on a 108 lobe, My compression just over 11, motor balance crank rods fly wheel drive shaft this can gain 10 to 20 hp a well balance motor, My crank case is well vented, 1/2 gas line from the tank, Mallory fire AL6 and coil Wisco Distributor, 373 cryo treated rear gear, 4 speed manual, I had M22 but switch saginaw 4 speed
My headers are 1"5/8 long tube with 2"1/4 true duals over the rear with chambers long mufflers that are 2.5 and then back down 2"1/4 over the rear.

I kelp the exhaust small to help the mid range hp with the big head runner's on my 327 motor.

I dun a few street races that was organize and only ran cars with close to my set up. No nos and tires size wide 12 and over. Tires I'm running 15x28x 10.5 tread wide

ASE doc

If you had those same lift and duration specs ground on a roller profile with more like 108-110 LSA, you'd get alot more out of it. With your low compression and small CID, you're losing way to much cylinder pressure with that big flat tappet cam. A roller of the same lift and duration would give much more area under the curve with alot less reversion. Or go with jag and increase compression to 10.5-11.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yep, shave the heads down abit to get compression up. Verify PTV clearance and get a decent roller. I honestly think you can get away with a hydraulic roller with near .600 lift and still get low 11's. I know guys with setups like that in heavy cars that are in the 11's with 355's. But a solid roller with .620-.650" lift will compliment those heads well, duration at .050 around 240-242 would be nice..peak in the high 6000 rpm range, shift 7200 or so. My friend ran TPIS solid roller, 242/242 on a 110 i think in a 406 and it peaked in the 6000-6200 rpm range so a 355 should beable to push high 6000's on that setup. As long as it clears the pistons if you shave heads down abit.

Best thing would be to swap pistons to really get compression up but if you go that far, might as well change crank for a 383

Doom86

There is certainly something off with your setup you should be trapping much higher.

Using exactly what you posted and letting drag2003 decide shift points it's predicting 11.4 @ 120mph. Not saying it's exact science but that is a huge difference from what you are actually getting. It's shifting at 7,150rpm and running 7,425 through the traps.

If your air/fuel ratio is on, compression good, I would suspect valve floating or trans slippage.

Redlinerevver

Thanks every one for the help and info I really appreciate it.

I would pry be best to keep my heads and do the clean up on them.

jag327 what are you running for pistons to clear the procomp's isnt there problems with running domed with them?

my rotating is all balanced out to 8000 and I have 1/2 fuel line with a 130gph summit fuel pump so that's not holding me back. The car just run's lazy and guess that's what to expect with low compression and big cam. I have a boss hog torque converter I like it a lot after riding in my buddies car with the summit band one.

Here's my question. would I be better off shaving & cleaning up my heads then getting the compression to around 10.2 and a bit smaller cam OR keep my cam and clean the heads up and get some domed 11.5-13-1 compression pistons? I don't really want to run race fuel but if the car puts down better numbers with more compression and better fuel its worth it. I cant really afford to go 383 right now. eventually I would like to do a big block build or big block crate engine and then get the fancy headers and all that.

Redlinerevver

the engine seems to run strong with no valve float. my trans may slip a bit but noting huge. You cant really beleave the advertised flow numbers on the heads I have seen on the net guys flow bench them out of the box and put out around 25-35 less cfm then there numbers if its true??? My air to fuel is around 12.7 to 13.5 plugs look good to.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

IMO, i'd run abit less cam and just clean up/shave the heads IF you dont plan on reusing them down the road. Only reason i say that is if you did go to a 383 or 400 based motor, the reduced CC's will require a dished piston to keep compression down to a safe level for pump gas fuel. More flat tops available than dished so it keeps your options open. If you ran race fuel, it really doesnt matter what you do Also you can get a custom grind cam for the application that is worth its weight in gold.

If you went high compression and kept the cam, you should look at working those heads over and that intake over to support the rpms it will want to turn...and it will turn rpm with over 250 deg duration.

Redlinerevver

haha yes this cam loves around 7000 rpm I'm going to start looking for piston's now. I'm thinking go around 12.5 compression ratio I just have to make sure the heads clear for domes. then Ill get the bottom end re balanced.

Doom86

That is exactly why I used independent tested flow data and not the manufactures dribble or some magazine spank article endorsed by a manufacture.

They obviously make the power, people get the times to show it. You just aren't unfortunately.

That cam wants to shift higher then you are. It even sounds lazy in the video from what you can hear. That thing should rip to 7,500.

You could make what you have work since you are on a budget and the bottom end is balanced. But you could swap the cam to match the intake/compression too. You should shoot for at least 11cr IMO you are using aluminum heads.

That intake won't have the cross section for a 350 @ 7,500 it should be gone over too if you want to keep the cam. With that cam if the heads and intake were worked to match it's power band it would be just nasty.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

YOu ever put it on a dyno to verify power band and air fuel?

Redlinerevver

no I have not. just have the digital wide band gauge and been to the track a few times. when I get the compression up and heads cleaned up good it will have to happen. also going to have a buddy go through the trans.

Redlinerevver

I don't have the cnc procomps just the cast ones. I could see the cnc one putting out good numbers for sure.