lilhack69

iTrader: (7)

i'm not 100% familiar with the 90 rs but if this car has a mass air flow sensor with the 3 codes in your first post unplug the maf with a cold engine start it up and test drive you will still have a check engine light on but see if your car fine. if so you have a dirty or bad maf. to try cleaning it remove maf and spray with throttle body cleaner or maf cleaner don't use anything else all other cleaners can damage the sensor and don't touch the internal parts of the sensor with any thing. after cleaning reinstall take three cold to operating temp. road tests if problems come back maf sensor is bad. also check iat sensor and coolant temp sensors(both)

sabien

From what you describe,..I would look at the coil/ignition system.

ASE doc

Right On! If this is a true GM tech, he should have a good, and not too difficult, time finding your problem. You will have the satisfaction of finally knowing what the issue was, and learning more about your car which will help you in future repairs, and you will have a nice running car. A car that shouldn't need any new sensors for a long time. LOL. Sorry, bad joke.

eric1984z28

Any new news on this? I have a 85 vette thats having the same symptoms and everything I can think of has been changed or checked out.

Lucid

iTrader: (4)

Does kind of sound like a timing issue of some sort. Just curious as to why you had to change the timing belt and then after you pulled the distributor you tried to time it and it wouldnt start at all.

My friend had a 91 firebird and always had trouble with the ignition module in that car. Is your car a V6 or V8?

I hope your mechanic gets it sorted out, these driveability problems are the worst.

sabien

OK, I'm really confused reading all these posts.She said that the timing BELT was changed.They only have timing CHAINS. O2 sensor will not cause this problem,only trip a code.The O2 will show an indication of another problem.She said that she already changed the map,after the code,so that's not it.Many Thirdgen members are asking questions that have already been answered.Give me some of what you are smoking. Seems to be alot of "chain pulling" going on around here.

Lucid

iTrader: (4)

#1 Timing belt and timing chain are essentially the same thing.
#2 You have a post count of 6.
#3 The MAP sensor, wiring or connection could still be faulty
#4 You havent contributed anything new to the thread
#5 See #2

sabien

#1 Timing belts,and chains are certainly not the same,let's be precise so no one gets confused.
#2 What difference does my post count make? I have been a multi brand mechanic for 30 years,and I've built my camaro myself from the ground up.I think I'm qualified.
#3 That would trip a code which she indicated the hasn't happened,since cleared.
#4 As I stated in post No. 52,I still think that she has a problem with coil/ignition.especially considering that it hasn't been checked- There's your contribution!
#5 See #2

Lucid

iTrader: (4)

From Automotivedictionary.org

Timing Belt:
A toothed belt driven by the crankshaft and operates the camshaft . It causes the valves to open and close at the proper time.

Timing Chain:
A drive chain driven by the crankshaft and operates the camshaft . It causes the valves to open and close at the proper time.

Its the same principle, just a different material/method of accomplishing the same thing. Most people use the terms interchangeably.

I do agree with you on the O2 sensor code, since you are supposed to trouble shoot the lower codes and work your way up and a timing/ignition issue could cause an abnormal reading.

blackfright

ok so i used to have a similar problem where it wouldnt want to start and after and would bog down horrible when i open up the throttle. It would also try to die and had a very rough idle... if i took my foot of the gas it would die... mine is carb tho and all i did was replace the carb and it fixed my problem... srry to hear that u cant fix yours tho.

P-ROC

iTrader: (2)

So, I know it is at a mechanic but I think everyone missed the fact that she read 43-44 PSI at idle and 50 PSI at WOT. Shouldn't it be more like 38 PSI at idle and 43-44 PSI at WOT?

ASE doc

Later TPIs ran higher pressure. 50PSI no vacuum, 44 w/vacuum, is about right. BTW, you guys know that the OP hasnt posted to this thread in over a month? Why are we debating her data now? Jawsgirl, is your car fixed yet? What was the problem? Please let us know.

ASE doc

Okay, so not quite a month. Just seems like it.

JAWZGIRL

ok so the mech. has had my car since November had him stumped he went all over my work found nothing come to find out the first thing my car lacking power was a fuel injector went bad running on 5 then when I happened to punch on the gas for the last time another one next to it went so this was the problem two injectors , replaced them and wow car back to her old self yeah I am so happy, want to thank everyone for all there advice and sticking with me on this

Project 3.4 Camaro

glad things worked out for you

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Which of course would explain why it sounded like a FUEL problem all along, NOT a "timing" or ignition issue.

Glad it's finally working.

Lucid

iTrader: (4)

Glad your mechanic found the problem and you got your car running again.

/ignores the troll

sabien

I'm glad you got your "Baby" on the road again,... Enjoy !

fordmike55

I had the same problems in my 88 trans am. After I went through the routine checks and 400 bucks later it turned out to be my temp sensor that was only $12 at advance. It was telling the computer that the engine was still cold and to dump more fuel causing to stall out and spit and sputter. Now the only problem I have is that my s.e.s comes on from a dead stop and does not turn off til 3rd gear or roughly around 35-40mph. So I decided to burn up the motor and replace it with a ramjet 350 or 383.