jamienoel

I replaced my worn out ACDelco plugs (was worn to over 0.045") and I'm not sure if my problem is the new Bosch plugs, but my car runs weird now. I can not describe much about the weird it's doing, but it's just a little erratic and definitely not right.

My old cap, rotor and wires were pretty much worn out and I replaced them as well. The coil wire socket/plug in the cap had lots of rust as did the plug wire end and distributor shaft where the rotor plugs in.

Before replacing the ignition parts, I went through a car wash and the engine just totally died, but luckily I had some WD40 (learned that when I was a kid from listening to grownups talk) to spray the wires/cap and was able to get it started again. There would have been no pushing the car off the tire lock thingy in the car wash.

Anyway, my car was running crappy before changing the ignition parts and I decided to use the Super Plus plugs instead of AC because they were on sale, plus I had an Advanced Auto coupon code (I love those) and they only cost about $1.18 each.

It seems to run fine if you are out on the highway at a steady speed (even if you come to a small incline and have to give it a little gas without the TC unlocking) and doesn't miss a beat. When you are a stop light however, it will run smooth and then miss, run smooth and miss and I'm worried it's going to stop, but it doesn't. Giving it gas can sometimes cause it to run weird. I wish I could describe everything it's doing and what I mean by weird, but it would probably take me 100 pages to figure out HOW to describe it and I'm posting a long enough message as it is. lol

I had to put the vacuum line to the air cleaner back on and it helped a little, but the car just runs weird and intermittent, which I don't understand. All the other hoses are fine and I even replaced some of them recently. I can also smell gas sometimes. It runs so good on the highway, which is what I can't understand.

Could the plugs be doing this and should I put some new AC plugs in? I have to get a couple shocks because of springs I have on the way, but I can get 20% off with a secret code. (not the one they are actually showing right now) The plugs are usually $2.29, but with the code I can get them for $1.83. AutoZone usually has them for $2.09, but they hardly ever have promo codes or I would buy from them. I haven't checked NAPA to see what they want for them.

I guess I can put ACs back in, but I just don't want to spend more money if I don't have to because I'm running low on funds. My poor old car is breaking me.

Also, should I stick with the specified 0.035 gap?

jamienoel

I guess nobody knows.

jwande

Did you check the gap on the plugs before installing them? Did you drop a plug on the floor and crack an insulator? Did all of you new plug wires click onto the plug?

jamienoel

You know what? The thing is crazy! Now that it's colder out, it's running good, so I don't know what the hell is going on.

The gaps were checked, the wires snapped and hopefully no insulator was cracked. Don't they usually just break off? The old ones were so tight that a couple broke off taking them out.

jwande

Pull the codes from your ECM even if you don't have a check engine light illuminated. Temperature changes tell the ECM to change the air/fuel ratio. Could be coolant temp sensor, TPS, MAP sensor, etc. Don't throw parts at it - it can get expensive.

Yes, they normally break off, but I have had one in my life that was bad and couldn't see it visually. Took me forever to find it.

My guess - the coolant temp sensor, but pull the codes first. Just a guess from the type of work that you were doing and what you might have inadvertantly jarred.

ASE doc

Carfully check all your plug wires for any sign of damage or loose connection. Check your ign coil for arcing to ground. Look at you inlet air temp sensor.

ASE doc

Did I not say this? Use AC Delco plugs in your GM. That's what it came with. Thats what its meant to have. Your pinching pennies at the cost of your engine's health.

jamienoel

Yes sir.

I have a little extra now and will be getting the 93 engine probably this weekend anyway and will use AC plugs in it. It lists it as taking a different model/part number though. CR43TS compared to the R45TS.

The person was driving the 93 (truck) and noticed the coolant reservoir was empty and found it to have a little coolant in the oil, so they assumed it was a head gasket and just stuck another engine in it.

He says it wasn't overheated and didn't knock or smoke and it put little coolant in the oil, so all I can do is buy gaskets and put it in because I definitely don't have the money to rebuild it right now.

My rod is knocking a little worse, so I have to do something quick.

I'm still wondering if this thing is going to be compatible with my computer.

ASE doc

Am I being a tyrrant? Sorry. If you transfer intake and all fuel injection, control system parts from the existing engine to the new one, it should work fine with your stock ECM. The CR43TS is 2 steps cooler than the R45TS. Also, we dont know what condition theyre in. Can you just buy new plugs? That really would be best. Also, for best results, install the new motor with a full tune. Unless your wires, cap and rotor are all brand new already.

jamienoel

It has a new cap, rotor, wires and the Bosch plugs. lol It's getting the new CR43TS plugs.

It is a 93 TBI engine, so I was assuming my TB would work without changing the intake? It may not even be on the engine, but I'll use mine if that's what is needed.

I was told that the 93 heads are a little different than my 89 heads because they have a swirl ridge in the intake ports by the valve and the spark plug holes are relocated, but they don't cause detonation as easy as previous heads.

I sure hope the guy is telling the truth about the engine and it's simply the head gaskets because I just can't afford to do anything else to it right now. Is there a way to tell if a head gasket is blown? Mu uncle probably knows.

ASE doc

More likely source of coolant in oil is intake manifold gaskets. Its common for the gasket to fail around the coolant passages, allowing coolant to seep into the lifter valley. This is why its important to apply a small bead of Ultra Black RTV around the coolant passages on both sides of each intake gasket when replacing them.

jamienoel

Well... Advanced has some more hidden coupon codes, so it looks like it will be cheaper to go with a ground crank and just change that rather than get the other engine and replace the gaskets and whatever.

The crank with the code is only $105.

I already bought the upper gasket kit, which was just under $50 and bought the spark plugs fr the 93. I can exchange those for the 45's though since they are the same price.

So... After buying a crank, which comes with the main and rods, a new oil pump and the one piece rear seal, it's cheaper!!! The engine can be taken out, swap the crank and put it back in. Just that simple.

Quick general question: Does side gapping plugs really work like they say?

jwande

Okay, I am only going to put one foot on the soap box.............

If you are going with the AC Delco CR43TS, don't let somebody sell you te R43TS. The C is for copper core. You are going to the effort to replace them, insist on the right thing. Second - gap then to the correct setting. They don't come "pre-gapped" as some people think. Electrodes get bent in shipping and that plug fits many different engines and gap settings.

Okay, now picture my foot on the soap box. Premium plugs (Bosch, Splitfire, etc etc) will work fine in most cases.
Here are a few good facts to carry in your pocket.

• Just like ASEDoc says, the engine was designed to run on AC Delco. That's what should be in it, IMO.
• Electricity follows only one path and that is the one with the least resistance (no multiple sparks, yada yada yada).
• Most of us have a stock car, or at best a heavily modified "stock" car. We're not running alcohol injection or nitro and measuring our times to the hundredth of a second down a track. How much improvement do you really think you're going to see while you're driving to work by swapping out a set of plugs?
• A spark plug CANNOT make a "stronger spark". The plug can retain more heat in the insulator and that is why some plugs don't foul as easy. They refer to this as "heat ranges". CAUTION - If you have to switch to a hotter plug, your engine has other issues!
• You compress the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder and then initiate combustion. You are going to completely surround the electrode with your combustion. There isn't a plug in the world that will make it better or worse.

Alrighty then! My foot is now off the soap box.............

jwande

Sorry - forgot one other thing. Side gapping. The distance to the core from the electrode will be determined by the gap setting. I don't care if it is at the top, left, right, or coming in at an angle. (Reference the bullet on combustion of pressurized fuel). You won't be able to detect a difference in a properly tuned car.

jamienoel

My final decision is to get the 1993 truck engine tomorrow and replace the upper gaskets. I know I could use my heads, but I'll just stick with what's on it.

I'm just hoping it will be compatible with my computer the way it is because mine is an 89. They are of course both TBI engines, so hopefully it will be ok.

I was reading about the 93 and it says that the heads on that year are designed so it is not as prone to detonation as earlier TBI heads.

After being told it's more likely to be the intake gaskets rather than a head gasket, I'm going to check the intakes before taking the heads off. I'm hoping there will be some kind of signs if it is.