whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
#1
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whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
So what is needed??
350 CI TPI motor. I dont mind spending Bucks on some heads!!.
it will have full boltons. So what heads and cam.
Can this be done with a mild cam??
350 CI TPI motor. I dont mind spending Bucks on some heads!!.
it will have full boltons. So what heads and cam.
Can this be done with a mild cam??
#3
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Thanks, I forgot to say My 350 is a 1999 vortec roller cam motor.
I am missing the heads. But not sure what heads to buy. Im sure being a roller cam will help some also..
I also forgot to say I have a 96 trans am T56 behind it
I am missing the heads. But not sure what heads to buy. Im sure being a roller cam will help some also..
I also forgot to say I have a 96 trans am T56 behind it
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
This is not a trick:
EngineQuest aftermarket Vortec Heads on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVR...Q5fAccessories
If someone reads this in the future search for "EngineQuest CC170BA" or CC170BA2 (perimeter bolt valve covers).
He's selling them for $130 a head but I bought a set from him for $220 a few months back. These things are stronger than stock, NEW, and the guide bosses are cut to like .800 so you can use normal SBC springs (but the pocket is still only like 1.26), they have screw in studs and you can use guidplates!
Show me a better deal! lol
EDIT: sorry the one in his auction is the CC170BA2 with perimeter bolt valve covers.
EngineQuest aftermarket Vortec Heads on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVR...Q5fAccessories
If someone reads this in the future search for "EngineQuest CC170BA" or CC170BA2 (perimeter bolt valve covers).
He's selling them for $130 a head but I bought a set from him for $220 a few months back. These things are stronger than stock, NEW, and the guide bosses are cut to like .800 so you can use normal SBC springs (but the pocket is still only like 1.26), they have screw in studs and you can use guidplates!
Show me a better deal! lol
EDIT: sorry the one in his auction is the CC170BA2 with perimeter bolt valve covers.
#6
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Thats a fairly easy task, a good set of aftermarket heads and ported intake should take care of that. It can be done with the L98 AL heads but I wouldnt waste my time with them unless you're on a tight budget. Either the AFR or TFS should heads will work really well. I'd replace the base while you're at it if you're in a money spending mood, open up the port at the head, and you'll hit the number fine.
#7
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Thats a fairly easy task, a good set of aftermarket heads and ported intake should take care of that. It can be done with the L98 AL heads but I wouldnt waste my time with them unless you're on a tight budget. Either the AFR or TFS should heads will work really well. I'd replace the base while you're at it if you're in a money spending mood, open up the port at the head, and you'll hit the number fine.
Replace what base?? TpI base?? with what??
Last edited by snowflake; 09-13-2010 at 10:27 AM.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Yep, he means the TPI base I'd be rather certain.. I dunno how you guys do it - I changed my TPI out for a carb - $30 for an intake manifold and $25 for a holley carb and the thing will flow more air than I could ever use. Those TPI parts are EXPENSIVE. Too bad GM didn't just make them a little more breathable from the factory! When I took off the TPI and saw how small the ports were in the base - I was shocked!
Yes, fuel injection would be nice. But the problem is that if you are using 20+ year old parts it can be a bit finicky unless you replace a lot of it.. mined pissed me off so much that it now sits on a shelf.
Yes, fuel injection would be nice. But the problem is that if you are using 20+ year old parts it can be a bit finicky unless you replace a lot of it.. mined pissed me off so much that it now sits on a shelf.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
You don't need or want $1600 heads for 300RWHP. I know you say money isn't a concern but no need to get 500RWHP heads, people get stary-eyed at those AFR's and always want to suggest them. There are other good heads out there I promise.
It could easily be surpassed with $700 185cc china Vortecs from "patriot performance" or equivalent.
Check out this link; https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...022-post5.html
Atilla's TPI 350 making 416 FWHP @ 5000 RPM. The torque is amazing to say the least.
It could easily be surpassed with $700 185cc china Vortecs from "patriot performance" or equivalent.
Check out this link; https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...022-post5.html
Atilla's TPI 350 making 416 FWHP @ 5000 RPM. The torque is amazing to say the least.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
That's my idea as well - heck the stock Vortec 350's with TBI were 255HP at the crank. And that's in a truck! Better to put a lower-end head in and really make it flow with other good stuff than to put some insane flowing head in there and junk around it. If you go to good on the head you may overshoot your goal. The heads I put a link to are actually pretty good and there are 500HP buildups in performance magazines using them. They really are an amazing head for the price, the price is rediculously low! lower than some used heads!!!
Heck I have the vortecs, a carb, intake, and headers and when it's all together it would be hard NOT to be at 300HP. That's on a 305 - not RWHP though.
Heck I have the vortecs, a carb, intake, and headers and when it's all together it would be hard NOT to be at 300HP. That's on a 305 - not RWHP though.
#11
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
LT1's make 300whp with bolt ons and thats a mild LT1 cam thats not all that much bigger than L98 cam and their heads only flow abit better than aluminum L98's. So yeah, you dont need much in head flow to get 300whp out of a 350 motor. The intake is what you need to open up to allow some rpms to make that power. LT1's will pull to 5500 rpm Short runner intake for the win, but a full ported or aftermarket TPI system should beable to handle up to 4800-5000 rpm peaks on a 350.
I like the idea of using more head than needed because atleast then you can use smaller cam to get the hp you want. LSX stuff uses big heads with small cams to make good numbers with their cubic inches. Same can apply to TPI. Also, with a good head you can always upgrade some parts to make more hp down the road.
AFR's are not 1600 You can get them for 1250 plus shipping, same price as most aftermarket aluminum heads that have decent parts in them. Options are out there in that price range.
I like the idea of using more head than needed because atleast then you can use smaller cam to get the hp you want. LSX stuff uses big heads with small cams to make good numbers with their cubic inches. Same can apply to TPI. Also, with a good head you can always upgrade some parts to make more hp down the road.
AFR's are not 1600 You can get them for 1250 plus shipping, same price as most aftermarket aluminum heads that have decent parts in them. Options are out there in that price range.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
LT1's make 300whp with bolt ons and thats a mild LT1 cam thats not all that much bigger than L98 cam and their heads only flow abit better than aluminum L98's. So yeah, you dont need much in head flow to get 300whp out of a 350 motor. The intake is what you need to open up to allow some rpms to make that power. LT1's will pull to 5500 rpm Short runner intake for the win, but a full ported or aftermarket TPI system should beable to handle up to 4800-5000 rpm peaks on a 350.
My 96 made 280RWHP back in 2001 on a Dynojet. Airfoil, SLP Dual CAI, SLP Headers, and SLP 2OTL cat back. 4.10 gears may have lowered the measured number 5hp.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I never said you couldnt. You can even use L98 AL heads, or Vortec heads. If you're already replacing them, have no problem "spending Bucks on some heads!!.", why limit yourself when (not if) in the future you want more power from it than those L98 AL's (or similar) can support, or they need more work like porting to accomplish it? Seems counterproductive to me.
#14
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I guess it depends onthe bolt ons and tuning, but alot of guys do average around that 280-285 mark but i've seen some posted that have done 300+. I think the record is 330whp or something like that...that seems to be a freak
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I never said you couldnt. You can even use L98 AL heads, or Vortec heads. If you're already replacing them, have no problem "spending Bucks on some heads!!.", why limit yourself when (not if) in the future you want more power from it than those L98 AL's (or similar) can support, or they need more work like porting to accomplish it? Seems counterproductive to me.
If a guy wants 320RWHP and can get it with $700 heads easily and a cam that peaks at 5000RPM I don't see why you should over spend, that's just my opinion. Spend the cash on something else that will help. TPI parts are expensive enough he'll find use for that money.
You guys do have a solid point though, he asked for it. I bet those AFR Vortecs would love a good flowing TPI the way they flow down low.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Yes but even if he were to get Vortec-style heads it wouldn't mean that he has to stick with the Vortec bolt pattern for the intake. I got the heads that use the old style and they were cheaper than stock heads! It wouldn't make sense to get Vortec heads with the vortec-style intake bolt pattern since intake manifolds can't be found cheaply in that style. Of course, it isn't a good idea to try to modify the bolt pattern on stock vortec heads.
#18
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Check out this link; https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...022-post5.html
Atilla's TPI 350 making 416 FWHP @ 5000 RPM. The torque is amazing to say the least.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Well, using that as a guideline.. if he did use stock vortec heads and the vortec TPI base.. he would probably overshoot his goal lol
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Orr has it exactly correct. The base is not junk, it just does not flow like one thinks it would. This is where Edelbrock had a golden opportunity to improve upon the TPI base when they did the Vortec base but they screwed up. From a flow standpoint you are better off with the standard Edelbrock TPI base. And better yet is the real Accel TPI base but they are only available on the used market nowadays.
#25
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
350 roller cam motor, trickflow or AFR heads, and a standard head edelbrock base?? this is better then the stock base???
I will need to know what size valves in the heads..
Thanks!!! Should I start a tpi build thread or keep this one going??
I am relying on you guys help for a tried and true setup..
#26
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
You don't need heads to get 300 HP. You don't need heads to get 350 HP. Stock heads will support up to about 375 HP.
You need a cam, intake, exhaust, some bolt ons. Tune.
Save yourself $1500 on heads, it's a waste of money.
Don't know why guys are hell bent on pushing heads, not necessary.
You need a cam, intake, exhaust, some bolt ons. Tune.
Save yourself $1500 on heads, it's a waste of money.
Don't know why guys are hell bent on pushing heads, not necessary.
#27
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I wasn't try to troll you just people in general it is so common on these boards.
If a guy wants 320RWHP and can get it with $700 heads easily and a cam that peaks at 5000RPM I don't see why you should over spend, that's just my opinion. Spend the cash on something else that will help. TPI parts are expensive enough he'll find use for that money.
You guys do have a solid point though, he asked for it. I bet those AFR Vortecs would love a good flowing TPI the way they flow down low.
If a guy wants 320RWHP and can get it with $700 heads easily and a cam that peaks at 5000RPM I don't see why you should over spend, that's just my opinion. Spend the cash on something else that will help. TPI parts are expensive enough he'll find use for that money.
You guys do have a solid point though, he asked for it. I bet those AFR Vortecs would love a good flowing TPI the way they flow down low.
#29
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
You don't need heads to get 300 HP. You don't need heads to get 350 HP. Stock heads will support up to about 375 HP.
You need a cam, intake, exhaust, some bolt ons. Tune.
Save yourself $1500 on heads, it's a waste of money.
Don't know why guys are hell bent on pushing heads, not necessary.
You need a cam, intake, exhaust, some bolt ons. Tune.
Save yourself $1500 on heads, it's a waste of money.
Don't know why guys are hell bent on pushing heads, not necessary.
#30
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
"You don't need heads to get 300 HP. You don't need heads to get 350 HP. Stock heads will support up to about 375 HP."
The goal is 300-320rwhp and with an auto. You are going to play hell getting there with stock heads. The route is a lot easier with a good set of heads. Heads is the key to horsepower.
The goal is 300-320rwhp and with an auto. You are going to play hell getting there with stock heads. The route is a lot easier with a good set of heads. Heads is the key to horsepower.
#31
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I really like this cam, very mild!! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-304-8/
#32
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
"You don't need heads to get 300 HP. You don't need heads to get 350 HP. Stock heads will support up to about 375 HP."
The goal is 300-320rwhp and with an auto. You are going to play hell getting there with stock heads. The route is a lot easier with a good set of heads. Heads is the key to horsepower.
The goal is 300-320rwhp and with an auto. You are going to play hell getting there with stock heads. The route is a lot easier with a good set of heads. Heads is the key to horsepower.
300 RWHP is what? 375 at the crank give or take? A light port job on stock heads will do it.
I'm just sayin' the guy need not spend over $1000 on heads for this kind a build.
And lastly, I'm not a fan of building to a dyno numbers. Most dynos lie.
Last edited by InjectorsPlus; 09-16-2010 at 05:56 AM.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Just in case you aren't aware of it, 1083 heads are one of the worst out there to work with. Just get a set in your hands and look.....
The exhaust side doesn't even flow 150 CFM.
A pro racer once made a statment to me that makes a lot of sense "get the best set of heads you can get, and build everything else around them".
The exhaust side doesn't even flow 150 CFM.
A pro racer once made a statment to me that makes a lot of sense "get the best set of heads you can get, and build everything else around them".
#34
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Just in case you aren't aware of it, 1083 heads are one of the worst out there to work with. Just get a set in your hands and look.....
The exhaust side doesn't even flow 150 CFM.
A pro racer once made a statment to me that makes a lot of sense "get the best set of heads you can get, and build everything else around them".
The exhaust side doesn't even flow 150 CFM.
A pro racer once made a statment to me that makes a lot of sense "get the best set of heads you can get, and build everything else around them".
Valve train components are important too, next to the rotating assembly they take the most beatings.
But there are 900 HP motors have exhaust ports that barely flow 240. It's just not as important due to the scavaging effect.
I think the point is given the modest goals by the OP, heads are a waste of money. What he has is "good enough" for what he wants to do.
I hate to see people throw away money.
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
So at that point, that is where the waste of money starts, having to start over and buy better parts that he should have bought in the first place.
I've never seen anything that is "good enough".
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Well... I still recommened the vortecs... they can be had dirt cheap and are very practical. They would also have some breathing room above his goal. Of course, if you aren't getting them cheap then the price might not be justifiable by comparison. There are some great heads out there.. it's all about money though. I personally got Vortecs for my motor because I know that I shouldn't go too "extreme". Vortecs are good enough heads to make enough power to need other significant drivetrain upgrades... Heads can cost well over a grand when they allow you to need to replace your trans and rear, etc... Total Cost of Ownership! lol
#37
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
"Does TPIS sell preported edelbrock bases anymore advertised as their big mouth base?"
From what I have seen reported the answer is no. They initially started selling their(Edelbrock) intake with a port clean up. After a period of time they stopped that practice and just started selling the intake with no cleanup.
Dyno Don is right on with his statements.
From what I have seen reported the answer is no. They initially started selling their(Edelbrock) intake with a port clean up. After a period of time they stopped that practice and just started selling the intake with no cleanup.
Dyno Don is right on with his statements.
#38
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I'd go with more head and less cam to make xxx hp than more cam and less head making the same xxx hp.
Its just more efficient that way.... Cam only stock head setups run waaaay more cam than really needed when for alittle more money you can get better heads/milder cam and achieve same if not more power.
LS and LT stuff are known for this. cam only big 237 deg duration cams may make 420whp....but a 224 deg cam and a great set of heads can do 430-450....turns less rpm, more driveable, better mileage and emissions. Thats one advantage to getting better heads than what you "need" for an application.
Sure he can do it on mild cleaned up L98 heads, but he will need more timing/compression/cam/etc to do so.
Its just more efficient that way.... Cam only stock head setups run waaaay more cam than really needed when for alittle more money you can get better heads/milder cam and achieve same if not more power.
LS and LT stuff are known for this. cam only big 237 deg duration cams may make 420whp....but a 224 deg cam and a great set of heads can do 430-450....turns less rpm, more driveable, better mileage and emissions. Thats one advantage to getting better heads than what you "need" for an application.
Sure he can do it on mild cleaned up L98 heads, but he will need more timing/compression/cam/etc to do so.
#39
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
If you have been around this game any time at all then you know once he gets 300 he's hooked, that's just the start of wanting more.
So at that point, that is where the waste of money starts, having to start over and buy better parts that he should have bought in the first place.
I've never seen anything that is "good enough".
So at that point, that is where the waste of money starts, having to start over and buy better parts that he should have bought in the first place.
I've never seen anything that is "good enough".
I know what you mean, but at some point you do what works and he can do heads later.
#40
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Well... I still recommened the vortecs... they can be had dirt cheap and are very practical. They would also have some breathing room above his goal. Of course, if you aren't getting them cheap then the price might not be justifiable by comparison. There are some great heads out there.. it's all about money though. I personally got Vortecs for my motor because I know that I shouldn't go too "extreme". Vortecs are good enough heads to make enough power to need other significant drivetrain upgrades... Heads can cost well over a grand when they allow you to need to replace your trans and rear, etc... Total Cost of Ownership! lol
$1000 heads aren't expensive. $5000 heads, those are expensive.
#41
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
To the OP:
If you want to go heads, I have a relationship with Profiler. I'll save you a few bucks and can probably get the pair complete for right around $1000.
I think they are a good, unknown product. Bill Lutz runs low 6s at 220 plus using Profiler equipment.
But again, I don't think you need heads.
If you want to go heads, I have a relationship with Profiler. I'll save you a few bucks and can probably get the pair complete for right around $1000.
I think they are a good, unknown product. Bill Lutz runs low 6s at 220 plus using Profiler equipment.
But again, I don't think you need heads.
#42
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
I'd go with more head and less cam to make xxx hp than more cam and less head making the same xxx hp.
Its just more efficient that way.... Cam only stock head setups run waaaay more cam than really needed when for alittle more money you can get better heads/milder cam and achieve same if not more power.
LS and LT stuff are known for this. cam only big 237 deg duration cams may make 420whp....but a 224 deg cam and a great set of heads can do 430-450....turns less rpm, more driveable, better mileage and emissions. Thats one advantage to getting better heads than what you "need" for an application.
Sure he can do it on mild cleaned up L98 heads, but he will need more timing/compression/cam/etc to do so.
Its just more efficient that way.... Cam only stock head setups run waaaay more cam than really needed when for alittle more money you can get better heads/milder cam and achieve same if not more power.
LS and LT stuff are known for this. cam only big 237 deg duration cams may make 420whp....but a 224 deg cam and a great set of heads can do 430-450....turns less rpm, more driveable, better mileage and emissions. Thats one advantage to getting better heads than what you "need" for an application.
Sure he can do it on mild cleaned up L98 heads, but he will need more timing/compression/cam/etc to do so.
Why is everyone so hell bent on this guy buying heads?
#43
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Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
For what its worth...
my formula with scoggin dickey vortec base/STOCK RUNNERS/PLENUM/TB/ tiny slp cam/ untouched vortecs with just srpings..through my tko did 299rwhp/401rwtq on a nitrous tune, with timing locked at 28*
same car/same motor, with slightly larger TURBO cam, mildly touched up vortec 906s, vortec HSR and stock TB, just laid down 363rwhp with locked timing at 28* and afr of 13.8{still needs more tuning}
my formula with scoggin dickey vortec base/STOCK RUNNERS/PLENUM/TB/ tiny slp cam/ untouched vortecs with just srpings..through my tko did 299rwhp/401rwtq on a nitrous tune, with timing locked at 28*
same car/same motor, with slightly larger TURBO cam, mildly touched up vortec 906s, vortec HSR and stock TB, just laid down 363rwhp with locked timing at 28* and afr of 13.8{still needs more tuning}
#44
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
For what its worth...
my formula with scoggin dickey vortec base/STOCK RUNNERS/PLENUM/TB/ tiny slp cam/ untouched vortecs with just srpings..through my tko did 299rwhp/401rwtq on a nitrous tune, with timing locked at 28*
same car/same motor, with slightly larger TURBO cam, mildly touched up vortec 906s, vortec HSR and stock TB, just laid down 363rwhp with locked timing at 28* and afr of 13.8{still needs more tuning}
my formula with scoggin dickey vortec base/STOCK RUNNERS/PLENUM/TB/ tiny slp cam/ untouched vortecs with just srpings..through my tko did 299rwhp/401rwtq on a nitrous tune, with timing locked at 28*
same car/same motor, with slightly larger TURBO cam, mildly touched up vortec 906s, vortec HSR and stock TB, just laid down 363rwhp with locked timing at 28* and afr of 13.8{still needs more tuning}
#46
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Well, I thought the point of a forum was to give good advice. Sorry if I was mistaken.
He didn't ask about buying heads. He asked about how to get to 300 HP and 320 FTLBS of torque. That was the question. Someone, somewhere told the guys he needed heads and a cam. He got bad advice. So I corrected it.
If the guy does not need heads to meet his goal, are we not falling short as a community by telling him to spend four digits worth of money to buy something unnecessary. is the goal to get to the numbers he wants (which I also think is a stupid goal but that is another story) or is the goal to own some cool parts that everyone can be jealous about?
So to recap:
Question: What do I need to get to 300/320
Answer: Intake, Exhaust, Tune, Cam....
But if blowing a couple thousand dollars makes everyone feel better, go nuts.
I feel good about my answer, you don't need heads.
I would say the goal needs to be redefined. The question should be I want to run the 1320 in XX.XX time, what do I need to do to get there. That is a goal. Dyno numbers are a bull**** goal as they are basically as worthless as flow bench numbers for heads.
Just sayin
He didn't ask about buying heads. He asked about how to get to 300 HP and 320 FTLBS of torque. That was the question. Someone, somewhere told the guys he needed heads and a cam. He got bad advice. So I corrected it.
If the guy does not need heads to meet his goal, are we not falling short as a community by telling him to spend four digits worth of money to buy something unnecessary. is the goal to get to the numbers he wants (which I also think is a stupid goal but that is another story) or is the goal to own some cool parts that everyone can be jealous about?
So to recap:
Question: What do I need to get to 300/320
Answer: Intake, Exhaust, Tune, Cam....
But if blowing a couple thousand dollars makes everyone feel better, go nuts.
I feel good about my answer, you don't need heads.
I would say the goal needs to be redefined. The question should be I want to run the 1320 in XX.XX time, what do I need to do to get there. That is a goal. Dyno numbers are a bull**** goal as they are basically as worthless as flow bench numbers for heads.
Just sayin
Last edited by InjectorsPlus; 09-16-2010 at 04:51 PM.
#47
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Because he has to buy heads Read his post. He has no heads on his motor at all and needs some.
Thanks, I forgot to say My 350 is a 1999 vortec roller cam motor.
I am missing the heads. But not sure what heads to buy. Im sure being a roller cam will help some also..
I am missing the heads. But not sure what heads to buy. Im sure being a roller cam will help some also..
On the worst end thats 520 for a set of heads.
Do the same for some vette L98s.... 250-350 bucks for heads used...100 for springs, 100-200 for valve job/machining/cleanup, etc. Probably looking near 720 complete now. OR you can skip machining and just do springs, your out 400 bucks. Oh, you may also want to deck them down abit to ensure good flat mating surface tothe block, especially for an old set of aluminums... 100-150 bucks more.
Vortecs similar situation. Buy them 550-600 a pair from SDPC already race ready. Junkyard maybe similar price as above heads, 150-350 depending, id ont know the going rates. Needs cleaned up to handle cam lift/screw in studs/springs, couple hundred there assuming no valve job. May be wise to just buy them already built from SDPC. THEN you need vortec base plate from SDPC which is 360 bucks or so I believe.
Those are your cheapest outs right now and vortec is not the cheapest option considering the price of a base. You may make 300whp on a stock base ported out abit. If you do buy all new TPI or whatever intake you run, then vortecs are not a bad idea.
Or spend 500 or so more and get a good set of aluminum heads that will really flow much better than the above heads, provide weight savings over iron stuff, no special intakes needed, more efficient chambers, better performance overall and room to grow if the need ever arises.
Since you dont mind spending money on heads, might as well get something you can enjoy later. Just my thoughts.
same car/same motor, with slightly larger TURBO cam, mildly touched up vortec 906s, vortec HSR and stock TB, just laid down 363rwhp with locked timing at 28* and afr of 13.8{still needs more tuning}
I respectfully disagree as there are way too many variables there to be meaningful. It's not a trade off that way.
Better combustion efficiency with a modern head design compared to an older design makes for more power on less timing. Every car I've seen with a head swap to a head that flows more than baseline gains power unless the intake wasnt able to support it. IF it didnt why would we buy heads? I still think given a set motor and intake, I'd go with a better higher flowing head and less cam than a weaker flowing head and more cam. With the smaller cam duration, you will have more lower end power and better driveability.
Cams/heads/intakes all work together to create the entire combination to fill a certain power/rpm range. Theres more than one way to skin a cat, doesnt mean they are all the right way. Case in point the super stock type guys running incredibly fast times using stock heads/intakes/cubes/etc. The cams are very aggressive and make the power on a restricted setup. They are race setups. You can achieve that same power using a less restricted setup and less aggressive cam.
#48
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
So we have options. Buy a set of used 083 heads from an L98. rebuild them with a valve job/studs/springs setup for .550 lift etc. Get heads for 100-150 bucks, 100 in springs, 150-200 in machine work/valve job provided you reuse the stock valves, more if you get new valves, 70 for screw in studs.
On the worst end thats 520 for a set of heads.
Do the same for some vette L98s.... 250-350 bucks for heads used...100 for springs, 100-200 for valve job/machining/cleanup, etc. Probably looking near 720 complete now. OR you can skip machining and just do springs, your out 400 bucks. Oh, you may also want to deck them down abit to ensure good flat mating surface tothe block, especially for an old set of aluminums... 100-150 bucks more.
Vortecs similar situation. Buy them 550-600 a pair from SDPC already race ready. Junkyard maybe similar price as above heads, 150-350 depending, id ont know the going rates. Needs cleaned up to handle cam lift/screw in studs/springs, couple hundred there assuming no valve job. May be wise to just buy them already built from SDPC. THEN you need vortec base plate from SDPC which is 360 bucks or so I believe.
Those are your cheapest outs right now and vortec is not the cheapest option considering the price of a base. You may make 300whp on a stock base ported out abit. If you do buy all new TPI or whatever intake you run, then vortecs are not a bad idea.
Or spend 500 or so more and get a good set of aluminum heads that will really flow much better than the above heads, provide weight savings over iron stuff, no special intakes needed, more efficient chambers, better performance overall and room to grow if the need ever arises.
Since you dont mind spending money on heads, might as well get something you can enjoy later. Just my thoughts.
That seems like a very efficient combo and among the highest numbers from vortecs i've seen. What size cam? 13.8 air fuel and 28 deg timing on stock TB and those hp numbers seems optimistic unless the cam was a good size cam. That rivals numbers from AFR headed HSR cars with 268 type cams like XFI or even the larger CC503 224 duration cams.
There are alot of variables to look at, but assuming SAME intakes used, same bottom ends, same car/driveline, more head flow providing the intakes dont restrict it, the more power you can make. I dont see any motors making less power when you give them more air flow.
Better combustion efficiency with a modern head design compared to an older design makes for more power on less timing. Every car I've seen with a head swap to a head that flows more than baseline gains power unless the intake wasnt able to support it. IF it didnt why would we buy heads? I still think given a set motor and intake, I'd go with a better higher flowing head and less cam than a weaker flowing head and more cam. With the smaller cam duration, you will have more lower end power and better driveability.
Last edited by InjectorsPlus; 09-16-2010 at 05:16 PM.
#49
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
A little bit on flow numbers and their value. This came out just this morning. VERY RECENT!!
Reher Morrison:
Jon Kaase:
" I hate flowbenches. As you may know, most of our work is with 815" Pro Stock engines. On these heads the flow bench is almost totally worthless. I think it's misleading at best. We can port an older aluminum A-429 CJ head to flow 400 & 250. Then we can have a P-51 head that flows the same. The P-51 will dyno75HP better than the CJ. It's all about sizes, areas, shapes, and valve placement in the bore. I think you'll find that the more an engine builder uses the dyno, the less he trusts or even uses the flowbench. There are so many flowbenches out there in use that almost everybody thinks he's an expert.
One of our main goals when engineering these heads was to be able to deliver them with 400 cfm intake ports. We have reasonably well achieved that goal. In high flowing intake ports with the port opening positioned down close to the head gasket surface, the air often breaks away from the port floor and results in turbulence. This usually occurs above .600" valve lift when the air flow is high. With the P-51 head, some of the intake ports will be smooth and quiet all the way to .800" lift. Those ports will usually flow over 400 CFM. Some of the ports will go turbulent at .550"-.650" lift. When it happens, the sound changes and the airflow will drop off about 20CFM. The flow will be the same or better than the well behaved port right up to the lift where it goes turbulent. There are several ways to fix this, all of which are not a good idea. If we raised the port entry about 1" at the manifold, it would be a big help because the air would not have to make such a sharp turn. Of course none of the manifolds would fit. If we made the port a lot wider or taller at the short turn, that would fix the problem because the air speed would be much slower. But slow is not what you want in a good performance or race engine. When flowing one of these problem ports, sticking a butter knife or blade in the floor of the port will usually straighten it out to flow 400. We have dyno tested engines with heads that flowed 400 and then changed to heads where every port went turbulent to flow 375. They both made the same power. Now, if you ran a set of heads that flowed 375 because of improper porting or seat work, and then reworked them to flow 400, they would for sure make more power"
" I hate flowbenches. As you may know, most of our work is with 815" Pro Stock engines. On these heads the flow bench is almost totally worthless. I think it's misleading at best. We can port an older aluminum A-429 CJ head to flow 400 & 250. Then we can have a P-51 head that flows the same. The P-51 will dyno75HP better than the CJ. It's all about sizes, areas, shapes, and valve placement in the bore. I think you'll find that the more an engine builder uses the dyno, the less he trusts or even uses the flowbench. There are so many flowbenches out there in use that almost everybody thinks he's an expert.
One of our main goals when engineering these heads was to be able to deliver them with 400 cfm intake ports. We have reasonably well achieved that goal. In high flowing intake ports with the port opening positioned down close to the head gasket surface, the air often breaks away from the port floor and results in turbulence. This usually occurs above .600" valve lift when the air flow is high. With the P-51 head, some of the intake ports will be smooth and quiet all the way to .800" lift. Those ports will usually flow over 400 CFM. Some of the ports will go turbulent at .550"-.650" lift. When it happens, the sound changes and the airflow will drop off about 20CFM. The flow will be the same or better than the well behaved port right up to the lift where it goes turbulent. There are several ways to fix this, all of which are not a good idea. If we raised the port entry about 1" at the manifold, it would be a big help because the air would not have to make such a sharp turn. Of course none of the manifolds would fit. If we made the port a lot wider or taller at the short turn, that would fix the problem because the air speed would be much slower. But slow is not what you want in a good performance or race engine. When flowing one of these problem ports, sticking a butter knife or blade in the floor of the port will usually straighten it out to flow 400. We have dyno tested engines with heads that flowed 400 and then changed to heads where every port went turbulent to flow 375. They both made the same power. Now, if you ran a set of heads that flowed 375 because of improper porting or seat work, and then reworked them to flow 400, they would for sure make more power"
#70- Airflow Fallacies: Avoiding the Pitfalls of the Flow Bench
Category: Tech Talk —
Published in National Dragster
Written by David Reher
“What’s it flow?”
Whenever a conversation about cylinder heads begins with that question, I cringe. I know where this discussion is going, and it’s not good. When a racer wants to distill the performance of a highly developed cylinder head down to a single number, I know I’m dealing with someone who is fixated on the flow bench.
I can speak from hard-earned experience, because there was a time when the flow bench was the center of my universe. When my partners Buddy Morrison and Lee Shepherd constructed our first flow bench in the ’70s, it was a revelation – or so we believed. We were addicted to airflow, and like three flow bench junkies, we convinced ourselves that big flow numbers translated to quicker elapsed times. But that was more than 30 years ago, and since then I’ve learned to avoid the pitfalls of flow bench testing.
Unfortunately many racers coming into the sport haven’t been taught the lessons that Buddy, Lee and I learned the hard way. Cylinder head manufacturers, porting shops, and engine builders constantly advertise flow numbers – and I confess that I’m sometimes guilty as well. In this environment, it’s understandable that some racers think it’s all about maximum airflow. They shop for the biggest cfm number at the lowest price, like finding a screaming bargain on a 52-inch TV at WalMart.
The strategy to win the “Biggest CFM Contest” is simple: Grind the largest port that will physically fit in the head, use the biggest valves that will fit the combustion chambers, and test it on the biggest fixture you can find. That head might win the prize for airflow, but it won’t win on the dyno or on the race track.
The factors that determine the performance of a cylinder head are complex. A head that is ported without considering air speed, the size of the engine, the rpm range, the location of the valves, and a dozen other parameters isn’t going to be the best head, regardless of its peak airflow. And yet I see racers who are seduced by big cfm numbers bolt a pair of 10,000 rpm cylinder heads on a 7,000 rpm short block and then wonder why the engine won’t run.
The most critical area in a competition cylinder head is the valve seat, and the order of importance works its way out from there. There are many questions that are much more important than airflow: How far are the valve heads off the cylinder wall? What’s the ratio of valve size to bore diameter? What’s the ratio of the airflow to the size of the valve? What’s the size of the port, what’s its taper, how high is the short-side radius? The answers to these aren’t as simple as comparing a flow number, but they are what really make a difference in an engine.
Airflow is simply one measurement among many that influence engine performance. With the availability of affordable flow benches and computer simulation programs, it’s easy to fall into the airflow trap. A builder works on a cylinder head, sees some bigger cfm numbers, and keeps working for more flow. But if he doesn’t stop and test the engine on a dyno and on the drag strip, it’s very likely he’s gone down a blind alley. What the manometer on a flow bench sees at a steady 28 inches of depression is not at all what the engine sees in the real world. The pursuit of a big cfm rating has ruined countless cylinder heads in terms of what will actually run on an engine.
I put more faith in dyno pulls and time slips than I do in flow benches. I’ll cite an example from back in the day when Buddy, Lee and I were winning Pro Stock championships. Lee came up with an idea for a tuliped exhaust valve. He filled in the back of the valve with Bondo, and tested the new design on our flow bench. It was killer. We instantly saw a tremendous improvement in airflow with a small exhaust port, a nice tight radius below the seat, and much more stable flow. So we had some titanium tulip exhaust valves made and tested them on the dyno – and the engine didn’t run well at all. We had great airflow on the bench, but the engine didn’t care.
We were working late one night, and Buddy decided to yank the heads off the block and have Lee open up the exhaust throats. Well, Lee kept grinding and Buddy kept taking the heads on and off, and eventually we picked up 30 horsepower that night. We were porting from the dyno and not from the flow bench. When Lee finally flow tested the heads the next day, they were down 30 or 40 cfm, but that’s not what that engine saw.
The final test of a cylinder head is on the track. Frank Iaconio was our chief Pro Stock rival, and he was a smart racer. Frankie used to change valves at the track — he’d make a run, come back to the pits and switch from valves with a 30-degree back angle to a 20-degree back angle. We did similar tests on the dyno, but he did it at the track. I was impressed.
I’m not dismissing flow benches. In fact, we use them daily at Reher-Morrison Racing Engines. But a flow bench is a tool, and it’s really not much different than a micrometer. A micrometer can measure the diameter of a piston, but you have to run the engine to learn the correct piston clearance. Knowing the sizes of the piston and cylinder bore doesn’t tell you if the piston is going to gall or collapse a skirt until you run it. And knowing the airflow of a cylinder head doesn’t tell you whether it will make good power on a given engine until you race it.
Experience is the most important tool in cylinder head development. A person with extensive dyno and track experience has been through it all before, and knows how to avoid the flow bench fallacies.
Category: Tech Talk —
Published in National Dragster
Written by David Reher
“What’s it flow?”
Whenever a conversation about cylinder heads begins with that question, I cringe. I know where this discussion is going, and it’s not good. When a racer wants to distill the performance of a highly developed cylinder head down to a single number, I know I’m dealing with someone who is fixated on the flow bench.
I can speak from hard-earned experience, because there was a time when the flow bench was the center of my universe. When my partners Buddy Morrison and Lee Shepherd constructed our first flow bench in the ’70s, it was a revelation – or so we believed. We were addicted to airflow, and like three flow bench junkies, we convinced ourselves that big flow numbers translated to quicker elapsed times. But that was more than 30 years ago, and since then I’ve learned to avoid the pitfalls of flow bench testing.
Unfortunately many racers coming into the sport haven’t been taught the lessons that Buddy, Lee and I learned the hard way. Cylinder head manufacturers, porting shops, and engine builders constantly advertise flow numbers – and I confess that I’m sometimes guilty as well. In this environment, it’s understandable that some racers think it’s all about maximum airflow. They shop for the biggest cfm number at the lowest price, like finding a screaming bargain on a 52-inch TV at WalMart.
The strategy to win the “Biggest CFM Contest” is simple: Grind the largest port that will physically fit in the head, use the biggest valves that will fit the combustion chambers, and test it on the biggest fixture you can find. That head might win the prize for airflow, but it won’t win on the dyno or on the race track.
The factors that determine the performance of a cylinder head are complex. A head that is ported without considering air speed, the size of the engine, the rpm range, the location of the valves, and a dozen other parameters isn’t going to be the best head, regardless of its peak airflow. And yet I see racers who are seduced by big cfm numbers bolt a pair of 10,000 rpm cylinder heads on a 7,000 rpm short block and then wonder why the engine won’t run.
The most critical area in a competition cylinder head is the valve seat, and the order of importance works its way out from there. There are many questions that are much more important than airflow: How far are the valve heads off the cylinder wall? What’s the ratio of valve size to bore diameter? What’s the ratio of the airflow to the size of the valve? What’s the size of the port, what’s its taper, how high is the short-side radius? The answers to these aren’t as simple as comparing a flow number, but they are what really make a difference in an engine.
Airflow is simply one measurement among many that influence engine performance. With the availability of affordable flow benches and computer simulation programs, it’s easy to fall into the airflow trap. A builder works on a cylinder head, sees some bigger cfm numbers, and keeps working for more flow. But if he doesn’t stop and test the engine on a dyno and on the drag strip, it’s very likely he’s gone down a blind alley. What the manometer on a flow bench sees at a steady 28 inches of depression is not at all what the engine sees in the real world. The pursuit of a big cfm rating has ruined countless cylinder heads in terms of what will actually run on an engine.
I put more faith in dyno pulls and time slips than I do in flow benches. I’ll cite an example from back in the day when Buddy, Lee and I were winning Pro Stock championships. Lee came up with an idea for a tuliped exhaust valve. He filled in the back of the valve with Bondo, and tested the new design on our flow bench. It was killer. We instantly saw a tremendous improvement in airflow with a small exhaust port, a nice tight radius below the seat, and much more stable flow. So we had some titanium tulip exhaust valves made and tested them on the dyno – and the engine didn’t run well at all. We had great airflow on the bench, but the engine didn’t care.
We were working late one night, and Buddy decided to yank the heads off the block and have Lee open up the exhaust throats. Well, Lee kept grinding and Buddy kept taking the heads on and off, and eventually we picked up 30 horsepower that night. We were porting from the dyno and not from the flow bench. When Lee finally flow tested the heads the next day, they were down 30 or 40 cfm, but that’s not what that engine saw.
The final test of a cylinder head is on the track. Frank Iaconio was our chief Pro Stock rival, and he was a smart racer. Frankie used to change valves at the track — he’d make a run, come back to the pits and switch from valves with a 30-degree back angle to a 20-degree back angle. We did similar tests on the dyno, but he did it at the track. I was impressed.
I’m not dismissing flow benches. In fact, we use them daily at Reher-Morrison Racing Engines. But a flow bench is a tool, and it’s really not much different than a micrometer. A micrometer can measure the diameter of a piston, but you have to run the engine to learn the correct piston clearance. Knowing the sizes of the piston and cylinder bore doesn’t tell you if the piston is going to gall or collapse a skirt until you run it. And knowing the airflow of a cylinder head doesn’t tell you whether it will make good power on a given engine until you race it.
Experience is the most important tool in cylinder head development. A person with extensive dyno and track experience has been through it all before, and knows how to avoid the flow bench fallacies.
Last edited by InjectorsPlus; 09-16-2010 at 05:12 PM.
#50
Re: whats needed to get 300/320 RWHP from TPI
Now you can make the argument that the laws of physics only apply in particualr applications or some of the legends of engine building are idiots, but it's not all about flow.
So for the love of god, stop judging heads by flow before I have to write a dissertation on the subject.
So for the love of god, stop judging heads by flow before I have to write a dissertation on the subject.