So I'm having a little bit of a problem with my beat. a little bit of background information

everything in it is brand new and I've just finished the break in on the engine all in all there is almost 800km on it now and it pulls like a scarred rabbit on steroids! After a 2 hour highway drive I flogged the car and it ran great exept for hitting my rev limiter at 5800rpm, it did not like that heard a double pop and carried on, it ran great no noises nothing. 20 min later (all highway driving normally) I started getting this ticking. when I pulled the valve cover it seems to be coming from cyl 1 or 3. I found a slightly bent pushrod (minutely) and replaced the cheapie ones with cormoly one peice ones and the ticking is still there. ARGH! but here is a nice link to the video of the sound and tell me what you guys think. maybe a valve spring that broke? i doubt it's a bent valve but who knows.

any help is accepted

here is the video
and details on the engine

PBM strike force aluminium heads (built by them)495 lift 230 duration 118 seperation cam.
11:1 comp keith black pistons eagle rotating assembly ballanced
EBL flash computer
Supper ram intake

http://s1000.photobucket.com/albums/...0summer002.mp4

 

Bent pushrod? Possible; Lifter, spring, rocker, rocker adjustment or flattened cam lobe.

 

well its not the rocker or rocker adjustement and the cam lobe I find doubtfull cause of the movement of the valve it is going pretty much full trow, I have not put a dial gage on it yet. that is the next step and then dissasembly of the valve and see if I have a spring that broke.

 

"any help is accepted"


You're guessing. What's your proof that the cause isn't the rockers or lifter preload adjustment?

Same with a cam lobe; how do you know your cam doesn't have a bad lobe?

How do you disassemble a valve???

Did you verify you're using the correct pushrod length? How'd you go about determining that?

Try writing using more specific and correct wording. Don't assume or guess as to the cause; instead, you must check and measure. A bent pushrod indicates binding/interference somewhere - Pushrods Don't JUST Bend. Something caused it to bend. Something in the valve train geometry.

If you don't know what you're doing or don't know how to do something, just say so and we'll give you the directions/instructions.

Start off by posting a list of the exact valve train parts you're using. List, in DETAIL, how you went about setting the lifter preload. Once we see what you've done we may be able to see the cause of your problem.

Jake

 

thanks to your incitefull and informative interpretation of your belief that I don't really know what I am doing. if you would have looked at my sig you would have understood that I actually do this for a living, (being a mechanic that is) and have been doing so for the past 10 years. I just specialise in diesels ( not high performance)now due to the army only using Cat and Detroit engines.
belive me the valve train Geometry is correct, instead of trying to mix and match everything on my valve train I went with a full kit from PBM performance that came complete with assembled cam, heads, rockers, push rods. I did a Compression test yesterday and the number 1 cylinder is testing at 125 psi when all the other ones are testing at 175 to 180. there is almost 1000km on the engine when this problem happened. When I assembled the engine everything went greawt and everything that went in has been measured and double checked to speck. So next step is to dissasemble the valves at that cylinder and see if I managed to bend a valve when I hit my rev limiter(set at 5800rpm) or if I broke a spring (hopping).
the bend in the pushrod was barely noticeable (about a 32nd of an inch) and I assumed that was the problem, when I put a new set in the ticking (death rattle) was still there. so more disassembly/inspecting is needed.

I'll post an update when I get the heads off and apart and take a detailled look at everything, just dreading taking appart that damn pizza box intake, long live the supper ram and 200 fasteners holding it all togehter.

 

This is something I harp on all the time: Attention to Detail, Precision and Accuracy.

Your posts are perfect examples of why it's so important to be precise and accurate in what is written. Your original post sends the message of someone for whom that's not important. So right away the correctness of your conclusions become suspect.

For example: "maybe a valve spring that broke?" yet you wrote "when I pulled the valve cover" which says you didn't even check for a broken valve spring when you had the cover off; then we have "dissasembly of the valve"; then the presence of repeated misspellings, etc.

All of those send a message to the reader. It tells the reader to be suspicious of the author's conclusions, especially when he writes things like "well its not the rocker or rocker adjustement and the cam lobe I find doubtfull cause of the movement of the valve it is going pretty much full trow".

Consider these: "belive me the valve train Geometry is correct", plus "When I assembled the engine everything went greawt and everything that went in has been measured and double checked to speck" plus "Compression test yesterday and the number 1 cylinder is testing at 125 psi when all the other ones are testing at 175 to 180", plus "the bend in the pushrod was barely noticeable (about a 32nd of an inch)".

What would one conclude from that? Certainly NOT "belive me the valve train Geometry is correct", plus "When I assembled the engine everything went greawt and everything that went in has been measured and double checked to speck". The evidence points to the contrary; the opposite of those claims.

One cylinder pumping significantly less than the others coupled with a bent pushrod strongly, popping, etc., strongly suggest a valve train geometry problem, despite your claims to the contrary. Insufficient piston to valve clearance is the most likely culprit. Avoiding damage caused by valve float is the primary reason why .100"/.125" MINIMUM P/V clearance is recommended. If I'm correct in my suspicion, that calls into question "belive me the valve train Geometry is correct", plus "When I assembled the engine everything went greawt and everything that went in has been measured and double checked to speck". Saying it doesn't make it so. See how one things leads to another?

Remember, author sets the stage by how and what he writes. Don't blame it on the reader when the author writes a post in such a way as to create suspicion in the mind of the reader. Suspicion that the author either doesn't know what he's doing or is so lacking in the ability to pay attention to detail and is so imprecise that the author's conclusions are called into question.

What and how you/we write sends a powerful message to the reader and NO! it's not okay to be imprecise and inaccurate. We should all strive to be as accurate as possible, not only in our writings but when working on our engines as well.

Attention to Detail, Precision and Accuracy pay dividends.

This, I hope, will help in your future posts. However, I'll leave it to other members to help you solve your problem. Considering everything, I prefer not to become engaged in a back and forth exchange over this.

I wish you well.

Jake

 

well I'm sorry that my mastery of the English language is not to your standards, especially since it is not my first language (I'm French) and I'll leave this topic as is in the desire not start the flaming game. I have other things to do with my time than to argue on the necessity of spelling and proper grammar with you. And in my experience any diagnosis of a problem is basically "guessing" its just a determination of different possibilities until you confirm your "guess"

cheers
Jean-Claude

 

geez guys, didn't your momma ever teach you to play nice! lol

Anyway, perhaps it is a problematic lifter? perhaps play with the lash with the negine running and observe how it changes - especially the rocker that had a bent pushrod. then go from there.

 

so finally got around to pulling the engine out and apart and unfotunately I managed to spin the number 1 connecting rod bearing, did a good job on it and probably going to need a new crank shitty deal since everything is new and will probably be cheaper to buy a new set instead of machining the crank (wore real bad probably cant machine it that much) get new bearings and replace that 1 connecting rod and get everything rebalanced.

its a good thing I have all winter to take care of this, I'm just perplexed on how that would have happened. 6 grand should not cause oil starvation issues on new oil and a fresh rebuild with a high flow pump. unless its my choice in oil that might have been bad I used 15w40 shell rotella T for the break in and first oil change, I was on my second when the bearing spun. all the other bearings look great I'll have more details when I measure everything up to find if any other bearings are on their way out.

 

Could have been a tight clearance on the rods, check the others.

From reading your OP was gonna say valvespring they can make an intermittent tick hard to chase.

Keep us posted

 

When you pull the crank check to see how well oil flows to that rod journal. Just try like a squeeze bottle with a conical tip - like a "ketchup" bottle for example. If it's a name brand crank and had a manufacturing defect you might be able to get a new set of rods and a crank from them.

Where did the block come from? Perhaps the oil passages weren't cleaned properly. Make sure you do a root cause analysis before you replace the worn parts, because there is surely a reason why this occurred.

 

well its an eagle crank kit so I'll try your trick and see if if lack of oiling in that pasage is the problem the block was acid dipped and cleaned up before I started putting it together by the local machine shop he measured everything and it was to spec. so he sais, one way or the other I need to pull the motor apart completely and clean all the babbit from EVERYWHERE
also found something else on the teardown that got me puzzled. I had engine oil in the intake plennum and it came from the EGR port in the intake runner (Accel supper ram) so need to figure out how in gods name that found its way there, at least there is no damage to the heads or pistons/block.

Now would you guys recomend replacing the lifters or is there a way to ensure they are poperly cleaned, I dont feel like breaking in another cam hehe

 

If you are concerned about the lifters being contaminated, look at the top - they should have a snap ring or c-clip of sorts that can be removed. Just bear in mind that there is a stiff little spring under there, so wear some safety glasses Hey, if they look good clean them with some brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner, spray them with compressed air, lube 'em up and put them back together. Of course, you mentioned break-in so I assume they are flat tappets... flat tappets are pretty cheap. Roller lifters... man I wish they were the price of flat tappets!

Well, no matter how "good" the cleaning - if someone "accidentally" forgot to remove a plug and clean in one of the passages, who knows what could have been built up in there. Stranger things have happened.

Just whatever you do, don't get new parts and put them back together without a good, thorough investigation. If it comes down to one of those situations where it is hard to tell - still assume that something was to blame.

BTW, just for info, you were running with an Oil Pressure guage, right?

I'm not familiar with that intake setup but, does the egr pull through the crossover passages in the heads? perhaps a bad seal on the intake manifold gaskets?

 

yeah they are flat tappet's wish I went with roller but did not feel like dropping 800$ for a roller cam and lifters! and yep there was an oil pressure guage and it red pressure all the time, but to ensure it trully is I'm going to put a mechanical one in the engine bay as well.

and for the egr I'm leaning towards the intake gasket not having a proper seal on it and sucking the oil up but first things first get a hold of eagle and get a new crank and connecting rod and pull everything apart and start a new. wish I could resure the head gaskets hehe they still look brand new and did not peal apart YAY more money to spend hehe