Fixed - Link to video of engine running :)
08-12-2010, 08:54 AM
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Car: 2011 6.2 Silverado, 88/85 camaro
Fixed - Link to video of engine running :)
Good Morning!
I have 3 videos here showing my Vac Gauge being used. Can you let me know if it looks decent? I'm chasing the intermittent code 33 and figured I'd check my vacuum out. I have new vac hoses but noticed the code gets set mostly when shifting my th-350. The modulator as shown in the video is getting vacuum from the pass side rear port on the plenum. Last time I checked my TPS, it was .54 dead on and 4.23-4.25 at WOT. New IAC after the old one was stuck even after cleaning. New MAF after the last one failed. New MAF, burnoff and fuel relays and new fuel relay pigtail. Also a new pigtail for the MAF sensor. I use Dielectric grease on the relays.
Just installed a new distributor, about to go install new MSD 8.5 wires. My old wires (Moroso 8.5) on every wire had the blue outer skin chewed through and the mice were chewing into the inner casing. I figure they might be arcing, I dont like seeing the chew marks so I'm replacing the wires. I don't know if its a bad thing or not, I've heard both sides but I'm using the Bosch Iridium 4 pt spark plugs.
I should mention, when I was doing some work with my relays, I was ignorant and forgot to pull the battery lead off and two wires at the fuel relay touched, wondering if it might have shorted something so thats why I replaced the fuel relay after the top popped off.
Oh I should mention, I did set the timing, it seems to be smoothest at 10 Deg Advanced, with the EST disconnected. If I get it down around 6 Deg Advanced, not as smooth.
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t=M4H02095.mp4
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t=M4H02096.mp4
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t=M4H02097.mp4
I have 3 videos here showing my Vac Gauge being used. Can you let me know if it looks decent? I'm chasing the intermittent code 33 and figured I'd check my vacuum out. I have new vac hoses but noticed the code gets set mostly when shifting my th-350. The modulator as shown in the video is getting vacuum from the pass side rear port on the plenum. Last time I checked my TPS, it was .54 dead on and 4.23-4.25 at WOT. New IAC after the old one was stuck even after cleaning. New MAF after the last one failed. New MAF, burnoff and fuel relays and new fuel relay pigtail. Also a new pigtail for the MAF sensor. I use Dielectric grease on the relays.
Just installed a new distributor, about to go install new MSD 8.5 wires. My old wires (Moroso 8.5) on every wire had the blue outer skin chewed through and the mice were chewing into the inner casing. I figure they might be arcing, I dont like seeing the chew marks so I'm replacing the wires. I don't know if its a bad thing or not, I've heard both sides but I'm using the Bosch Iridium 4 pt spark plugs.
I should mention, when I was doing some work with my relays, I was ignorant and forgot to pull the battery lead off and two wires at the fuel relay touched, wondering if it might have shorted something so thats why I replaced the fuel relay after the top popped off.
Oh I should mention, I did set the timing, it seems to be smoothest at 10 Deg Advanced, with the EST disconnected. If I get it down around 6 Deg Advanced, not as smooth.
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t=M4H02095.mp4
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t=M4H02096.mp4
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t=M4H02097.mp4
Last edited by resinlake; 08-22-2010 at 06:40 PM.
08-12-2010, 02:21 PM
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Re: Mornin' Video of Vac Gauge - Code Chasing :))
Ok new question, and I called Microtech on it, and not sure why as there is no burn-off feature. I went out today and lifted the hood just to check out the wiring and when I felt the MAF sensor, it was warm to the touch, not the whole housing/tube but just the module that the harness plugs in to. Any idea why?
I just read the following and have to ask, how do you apply 12v to ALDL G terminal? How do you verify if a wire is grounded instead of voltage? I'm wonderinf if there is constant power to my MAF for some reason, even with the new BWD relays:
"First check air ducts for cracks, holes and tighten clamps.
With the ignition off, unplug the MAF and apply power to ALDL terminal "G". Check the red wire on the MAF connector for power. If no power, verify 12VDC on relay connector orange and white/tan wires. Verify the connector black/white wire is grounded. Verify black wire from MAF
connector terminal B to ECM connector A11 with an ohm meter. Verify red wire from relay connector to MAF connector with an ohm meter. If all is good replace MAF power relay.
Turn ignition on, Check MAF connector dark blue wire for 12VDC, if so, unplug MAF burn off relay and check again. If so, check relay connector black wire for ground. If so, the black wire is shorted to ground or the ECM is bad. If not, replace MAF burn off relay.
If the dark blue wire at the start of the above test had no voltage, check the MAF connector dark green wire with ignition on for a 5VDC reference signal. If so, and all connectors are good, replace MAF. If no 5VDC reference on dark green wire, verify it from the MAF connector to ECM connector B12 with an ohm meter. If the wire is good replace the ECM. If the dark green wire has 12VDC on it, turn ignition off and unplug the ECM connectors. Turn ignition back on and check again, if so, it is shorted to power somewhere. If not, and all connectors and grounds are good replace ECM."
-------------------------------------------------------------------
ok another edit here, with the key out of the ignition, I back probed the MAF with the DMM set to 20 VDC. I read about 12.21 volts on the red and blue wires.
I then checked the TPS, although I had it set a few months back at exactly .54 and 4.24-25 it was now reading at .64 closed throttle and at 4.13 or so at full throttle. I set it at .54/.55 and about 4.13 full throttle. Anyone feeling this? It was a steady rise in voltage, no dead spots or falling back.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Went out for a shake down run after new MSD wires installed, TPS adjusted, aaaand code 33 popped up again when my temp got up to around 190 degrees. I was getting into the throttle pretty hard before the code popped.
I just read the following and have to ask, how do you apply 12v to ALDL G terminal? How do you verify if a wire is grounded instead of voltage? I'm wonderinf if there is constant power to my MAF for some reason, even with the new BWD relays:
"First check air ducts for cracks, holes and tighten clamps.
With the ignition off, unplug the MAF and apply power to ALDL terminal "G". Check the red wire on the MAF connector for power. If no power, verify 12VDC on relay connector orange and white/tan wires. Verify the connector black/white wire is grounded. Verify black wire from MAF
connector terminal B to ECM connector A11 with an ohm meter. Verify red wire from relay connector to MAF connector with an ohm meter. If all is good replace MAF power relay.
Turn ignition on, Check MAF connector dark blue wire for 12VDC, if so, unplug MAF burn off relay and check again. If so, check relay connector black wire for ground. If so, the black wire is shorted to ground or the ECM is bad. If not, replace MAF burn off relay.
If the dark blue wire at the start of the above test had no voltage, check the MAF connector dark green wire with ignition on for a 5VDC reference signal. If so, and all connectors are good, replace MAF. If no 5VDC reference on dark green wire, verify it from the MAF connector to ECM connector B12 with an ohm meter. If the wire is good replace the ECM. If the dark green wire has 12VDC on it, turn ignition off and unplug the ECM connectors. Turn ignition back on and check again, if so, it is shorted to power somewhere. If not, and all connectors and grounds are good replace ECM."
-------------------------------------------------------------------
ok another edit here, with the key out of the ignition, I back probed the MAF with the DMM set to 20 VDC. I read about 12.21 volts on the red and blue wires.
I then checked the TPS, although I had it set a few months back at exactly .54 and 4.24-25 it was now reading at .64 closed throttle and at 4.13 or so at full throttle. I set it at .54/.55 and about 4.13 full throttle. Anyone feeling this? It was a steady rise in voltage, no dead spots or falling back.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Went out for a shake down run after new MSD wires installed, TPS adjusted, aaaand code 33 popped up again when my temp got up to around 190 degrees. I was getting into the throttle pretty hard before the code popped.
Last edited by resinlake; 08-12-2010 at 10:04 PM.
08-20-2010, 11:10 PM
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Car: 2011 6.2 Silverado, 88/85 camaro
Re: Mornin' Video of Vac Gauge - Code Chasing :))
Believe the issue is solved for now. Replaced a relay that was only a month or so old, BWD from Advance Auto Parts. It was stuck open supplying just over 12 volts to terminals D and E constant even when the ignition was off. Battery was drained one morning. I moved the relays up over the wheel well, pushed in on them, had the micro-tech maf refunded and went with a Cardone remanufactured Bosch Unit. No codes now and the car runs tight. The acceleration is responsive, snappy, the full manual kit in the th-350 chirps through gears and shifts are instant. Could not be happier... unless of course I had more gears but this transmission is tough and inexpensive all things considered. Glad I went through and cleaned the heads and intake up with a die grinder. Engine likes the new MSD 8.5s and the new Ignition Plus distributor from hotrodusa on ebay. It was $70 plus shipping, hard to beat. Set the base timing at 10 Deg. and its great. Throttle cable/throttle body sticks just a bit, can see the throttle blade not going back to the set screw sometimes and if I pull up on the accelerator pedal it will bring the idle down so thats next. Went for a 3 hour cruise tonight t-tops out, great time.
08-22-2010, 06:43 PM
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Re: Mornin' Video of Vac Gauge - Code Chasing :))
Hey everyone, ok after the trouble shooting, everything seems to be good now. Went under the car today, found one transmission mount to transmission hole stripped and the other bolt missing. Had a spare bolt so I put that in with loctite in the one hole (Energy Suspension Mount) and will heli-coil the other one later this week. Had a K-Member bolt come lose so I put some loc-tite on it and torqued it down. Here is a video of the car running. I can hear just a bit of overlap on the cam that sounds diff from a stock cam but I dont know what the engine builder did for the previous owner of the engine. No codes, runs great, temps good.
You Tube HD Vid --- http://youtu.be/HPLKXhPo92k?hd=1
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...nt=cam-rod.mp4
You Tube HD Vid --- http://youtu.be/HPLKXhPo92k?hd=1
http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...nt=cam-rod.mp4
Last edited by resinlake; 08-22-2010 at 07:59 PM.
08-28-2010, 11:00 PM
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Re: Mornin' Video of Vac Gauge - Code Chasing :))
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