63bravo!!

hi everyone i am going to build a 572 bbc at some point next year what i have started is

block- world merlin III 10.200" iron- $2,728.99
pistons-je part # 257947- $789.60
crank- callies magnum II 4.5 stroke - $1,656.00
rods-oliver part number c6535bbmx8- $1,299
heads-afr 335cc 110cc chamber- $3,000
rockers- jesel shaft mount- $1000

haven't decided cam or intake yet and am not fully set on the heads and block pretty set on rotating assembly but if im way off please tell me
i want the power to stay under 6000 rpm will be running a t56 with a moser 12 bolt with 308 gears with 17 or 18 inch rims i appreciate all input and gestamations what kind of flywheel hp and tq this combo will put down

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

have you bought any of this. is this car going to be an all track car??

63bravo!!

Street and open road race no parts yet

AC

iTrader: (3)

While I love the thought of a 572 in a 3rd gen, have you researched the exhaust setup you're going to need? The potential fitment issues, i.e. steering shaft possibly? Radiator size / capability?

For a normal engine build, figure 300-400 bux for misc items such as head bolts / studs, main cap bolts/studs, intake bolts, additional fasteners, head gaskets, intake gaskets, seals, bearings etc. 400 is probably slightly less than you'll actually need. I'm no expert but every winter for the last 4 years, I've built a new 383, only recycled parts are my crank,rods and pistons.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

was just wondering since what you are going to spend on a big block you could get a small block or lsx swap to do the same.

Atilla the Fun

Doing a tall deck 572 isn't that wise. You can safely get up to 605 cubes from a short deck, making it a better fit, and lighter.
But the Hooker headers for a rat in these cars are 1.875" primaries, so a 540 would be wiser.
The AFR 315 heads would be best on a 540.
And for rods, go 6.385"

63bravo!!

i will be going with spohn k member and rack and pinion steering making my own exhaust or finding a good shop to do it (last shop f**Kd up my exhaust on my 89. the reason i want to go with a tall deck 572 is reliability streetability and power im looking for around 800 n/a or tt thats why i chose the low compression pistons i am also thinking about a dry sump systems for the smaller so i can lower the engine more( that may just be a pipe dream as of yet idk)

AlkyIROC

With a tall deck block in a third gen, unless it's a tube chassis car, you're going to have to make your own headers or special order a set from places like Ed Quay or Lemons. Expect to pay $1000+ for a set of headers. Of course just about every aftermarket head has raised exhaust ports which makes even swap headers hard to fit since they're all designed for production heads. Raised port heads and a tall deck block means headers just about need to be custom made to fit properly.

As mentioned above, it's much easier to make a 540 or even bore it out to a 555 or 565. The short deck block fits anywhere a 454 would fit.

Just from looking at your potential parts list for the engine, expect to budget around $20,000 just for the engine before it's finished. For that price, you could buy a prebuilt and dynoed engine.

The Dart block is better than the Merlin block.

A dry sump pan is the same depth as the front of a wet sump pan. Unless you're going to do a lot of K-member fabrication, you can't drop the engine any lower than the k-member with a wet or dry sump pan. I still use a manual steering box because I have no room past the headers to run a steering shaft to a rack and pinion. The limiting factor in how low I can position the engine isn't the k-member but the center steering shaft. I have it flipped over so the engine can be lowered slightly more. If I pull the center shaft off, I can still pull the oil pan without lifting the engine.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

x2 get a complete setup 13-18 grand for most engines 500-600 cubic inches. Cant really beat that deal.

example. 540 street rod motor. 680hp by 6000 rpm but that can be adjusted with different heads/cam. But since you want under 6000 rpm anyway, its realistic.
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmEngines.htm

63bravo!!

i realy am pretty set on a 572 and 680 is still short of my 800 hp goal good to know about the clearance issues with lowering the block custom headers is no problem i will be building them my self i thought the spohn system improved clearance though? i like the tall deck because of the bore/ stoke ratio and the rod/ stroke ratio and OK rod to stroke ratio (1.45:1) i could make it beter with 6.7 rods (1.49:1) also i plan on keeping this engine for as long as i can and with the aftermarket tall deck it looks ike i can get many rebuilds out of it np i didnt look at je's flat top selection innitialy but it looks like i can keep blower friendly compression with their flat tops aswell.

AlkyIROC

That's not a great rod ratio. My 540 is still slightly better with a 1.50 ratio

Atilla the Fun

You can have your 572 in a low-deck block. But if you insist on tall-deck, and custom headers, and AFR 335 heads, then you may as well go with a 4.75" stroke and 6.7" rods, and a 4.600" bore. This is typically called a 632.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

800 hp from 540-572 and below 6000 rpm dont really go together unless you add spray or boost. I think you still need to rev it up some to get that much power from n/a engine that size. Thats 1.4-1.5 hp per cubic inch. Thats a pretty healthy number.

63bravo!!

i thought about using a 632 but it limits me to two rebuilds with off the shelf pistons and darts recomended maximum bore size, whereas with a 4.5 bore i can get 5 or 6 rebuilds with off the shelf pistons also darts website sais that its only clearanced for 4.5 in stroke i dont see why i couldnt get 800 n/a with the right upper end, however i would be willing to drop the compression and go with a ati supercharger or turbo system

63bravo!!

lol i keep thinking that i will stil daily drive it, realizing im not going to be (i have one of those economic cars now with a/c and a radio even im thinking a 632 would be more resonable b/c i will be driving maby 100 miles a month or less... not a week like i was scott shafiroff engine $16950
+oliver rods $995
+shaft mount rockers $1195
+nitrus kit $965
hows this look?
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/632_bigdawg.asp

iroc stangs

i though we were going to shoot for 200+ mph? this big of an engine could overheat easily, lsx is MUCH MUCH better choice.

63bravo!!

please tell me i am allways willing to learn why will this engine be prone to overheating? and why will lsx be a better choice just hp and tq please lets pretend weight isnt an issue

iroc stangs

it may not be, it just seems like a larger engine would need better cooling equipment as how many cubic inches your pushing. im just going throw it out anyhow, an adverage lsx would be SOOOO much easier to fit. I doubt you could get to much driveability out of that many cubes as a lsx could do 800hp easy like its pushing 200hp. A big inch small block lsx could make 800hp pretty easy and much more safely.

63bravo!!

its been my experiance that more cubes will make it more streetable and i can always do some cutting for a bigger radiator i will call some bbc ppl i know on Monday to see what they say about the cooling. what do you mean the lsx will be safer? im looking for 800 or 900 n/a with about 10.5 compression that way if its still not enough (which im shure it will be) i can switch to e85 and do sc or turbo. i am deffinately willing to go lsx dont get me wrong and if you can show me some examples(mag articles ect. not my buddies brother stuff) i will go with it b/c it would be easier

63bravo!!

i probably wont spray but i would like the option to

AlkyIROC

Just how often do you plan on rebuilding the engine where it requires a new overbore? If for some reason you damage one or two cylinder walls, it's cheaper to just get them sleeved than it is to buy 8 new pistons, bore 8 cylinders, rebalance for bigger pistons etc.

If you have an expensive aftermarket block and it's been bored out to maximum but needs repair, it's cheaper to resleeve all the cylinders back to a stock bore than it is to buy a new block.

63bravo!!

oh i didn't know that i was under the impression that it was way expensive to resleave in retrospect i probably wont rebuild it all that much i have to keep reminding myself that it wont be my dd anymore

63bravo!!

oh does anyone know where i should start with injectors? i figure around 60lbs would be a good start?