88 lo3 , after rebuild i only torqued them down once , i want to re-torque them down again just to be on the safe side.

 

Most of the better head gasket sets advise you to step-torque your head bolts in three increments. If you did that, no further retorquing is required.

If you need to retorque, just pop off the valve covers and follow the prescribed sequence.

 

Are you asking what the torque should be, and what order they should be done in?

I mean once they are done, they are done - you just have to use a torque wrench, and follow the order. They are torqued in order to X ft/lbs, then retorqued again in order to Y ft/lbs, and I believe once more to the final torque specs, which for a 1988 is 65 ft/lbs. So you'll need a pic of the sequence, torque them in sequence to like 22 ft/lbs, then again in sequence to like 44 ft/lbs, then one final time in sequence to 65 ft/lbs.

The bottom of this page shows the sequence - a circular pattern from center outwards:

http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

 

As with so many other things, there are differing views on this.

One of those "other things" is to take into account the head bolts being used and the recommendations that came with them.

ARPs, for example, call for different torque specs depending on the lubricant being used. With ARPs lube, 65 lb/ft is the spec but with 30W engine oil the recommended torque goes up to 75 lb/ft. This may not apply for ALL ARP head bolts, but it did for the last few sets I've used.

Some guys even recommend torquing, loosening then re-torquing the head bolts five times to get the best, equalized clamping force and accurate torque settings.

To do what you want to do, I'd loosen then re-torque each bolt individually, in sequence. Back off then re-torque then move on to the next bolt.

Jake

 

And remove the exhaust manifolds to get to the short bolts. And probably the rocker arms to get to the upper bolts.

 

just decided to ask this questions because i think that either i have a head that is cracked , blown gasket or warped . here's what i've been trying to diagnose for probably over nine months on and off .
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ure-after.html

 

If that was the case, there would be evidence of it. I dont know what it is with the rash of people wanting to replace head gaskets lately for seemingly no reason.

The plug/s will usually have residue on them from the coolant burning if that was the case. In any case, there would be some indicator.
If the coolant passage is cracked, you would have exhaust in the coolant, and this can be tested for.
If the oil has not turned to a chocolate milkshake, I really doubt there is anything wrong with the gaskets.
To me, it sounds like the issue is with the electronics and sensors, since you hooked up the battery backwards. Fix that, leave the heads alone.

Dont mess with the head bolts, but I do have a question. Did you use sealant on them? They go into the water passage and need to be sealed with something like a liquid teflon paste.

 

no , i did not , and no milk shake , the reason why i say this is because after dataloging several times and posting datalogs i've been told that my ecm can no longer lean my AFR , yet i still get white smoke out of the exhaust , the engine still ran like this before i fried the ECM , also my ignition is working right and when i checked my reserve tank i only like 5 small bubbles.