johnny89345

first im looking to buy an aftermarket ac deete box but i donot know which one looks the best does anyone have any pics of theirs. also id like to see some clean engine bays to get some ideas of how to better mine, please post any pics you guys have.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Why not get a steel factory box?

I used one and modified the relay bracket for the hi speed blower relay and some other stuff for an OEM like look. I also moved the coil to the box and the heater valve to the same area to get rid of it cluttering the engine in plain view. Now w/ the KC4 cooler I only have 1 hose intruding into the engine where it's in plain sight.

A work in progress

johnny89345

i cant find any metal boxes online and what do you mean about modifying the relay for a high speed blower

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...#ht_500wt_1182

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...ht_1330wt_1165

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...ht_1330wt_1165

The 1st one would be my pick, it's complete and in good shape. You won't need the wiring but you will need the fan since the auto fan doesn't fit, the flange is different and the squirrel cage is deeper.

Resistor bridge can be replaced w/ your old one. All you need to do is add your old hi speed blower relay. W/ that setup it will blow a lot harder than the original non AC setup. My 88 is all original non AC, the fan doesn't blow nearly as much as my 87 AC converted w/ oem AC system hi speed relay. The wiring/relay is the only difference and it makes a huge difference in air flow.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Oh, and you will have to plug off the lower most hole, the AC box has a bolt going from the footwell to the engine bay, there are several but the middle one/lowest one is not used w/ the non AC box. I used it for additional wires to the engine w/ a grommet but if you don't do that make sure to plug it off or you will get a wet carpet.

If you look closely at my last pic, where the relay sits, below it where the wires come out. You can see about 2/3rds of the hole in question right there.

johnny89345

i already have an ac car so do i still need to change the relays over. i thought it would be a direct swap. no mods needed. i think im making it seem much harder to do the nit really is

johnny89345

im worried about the wiring btw way what coil is that my msd took a dump and im in need on a new one. i really like the look of yours i want mine to look just like that

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

You're not reading correctly. You don't need to change anything about the wiring. Your "new" OEM non ac box will come with the blower motor if you buy a complete unit. You need to use that one because the AC one will not fit in the non AC hole.

Now the non AC wiring doesn't incorporate a hi speed relay, your wiring has a relay so you need to take the bracket of your AC box and somehow mount it somewhere so the relay can be mounted. All you need to do is change the resistor thingamajig doohickey with the one from your ac setup as these are different too, just 2 little bolts and you're set

The coil is a regular msd for small cap hei with the dual plug coil

johnny89345

i misunderstood. im going to purchase the first one.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Delete box sold. Thanks guys.

If you didn't get the one off ebay, I have one for sale.

If you want to go a step further I also have the dash trim parts without the side AC vents.


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...elete-box.html

johnny89345

wow i wish you would have sent that a day earlier. i bought the first one

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I didn't have it until today.

johnny89345

maybe this is a stupid question but i want that same flat black paint you used to paint yours. what kind of paint should i get to touch everything up with and redo the box. obv i dont want it to burn off

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Me? The paint I used will be hard to get since it's only sold here, it's wurth brand

it won't burn off, it won't get hot enough for that.

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

I wish I had a clean engine bay.. I have no heat or AC, and the blower motor is removed, so I'll probably just get a bit of sheet metal welded over that gaping hole in the firewall, so heat doesn't just literally blow into the interior from the engine bay.



I'm confused, are you getting rid of your heat too? IMO if you don't want AC, heat is in no way necessary. Wear a jacket in the winter if you get cold!

I really love cold weather, so it'll never affect me. I usually wear shorts until it starts going into the 20's. For some reason I've been wearing jeans all year though. Then again, I live in southern Delaware and it doesn't get all that cold usually. The coldest I've ever seen it here was 16 degrees. Quite a difference from when I lived in northern PA, and in the winter it'd commonly go down to -5, or less.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Heat is mandatory here, you have to have a functional heater and defogger.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

What?! I've never heard of such a ridiculous law. Most U.S. states are very lenient about inspection. As long as you have a functioning horn, running lights, low/high beams, turning signals, and no big cracks in your windshield, you're good to go. Most don't really care much about emissions either, as long as it's not literally just smoking everywhere, some will check your tires and emergency brake too. Then again, there's a handful of U.S. states that require absolutely no inspection at all.

They'll probably make a law saying it's mandatory that you have a radio next. LOL.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

<-- The Netherlands

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

I know, I read that, which is why I stated "U.S." a couple times.

steNcho

Hey, glad to hear there's some thirdgens over in Holland. I'm from Curacao and going to move to Holland in august for my studies. Too bad I'm gonna have to leave my baby here :P. My car's PO just fiberglassed the sh*t out of the hole that was left when AC and heat were removed.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Same prob I had w/ my 77 vette that came from Curacao, guy had covered the entire area up

still have the bon bini plate

steNcho

WOW never seen that around here :P. Very nice. Would love to come and see the cars when I'm there in Holland sometime. But anyways, I'm probably gonna fix the f'd up firewall the next time the engine is out. Weld the hole then bondo and paint. Don't need heat here!

johnny89345

can you possibly send me a pic of the heater springs behind the box or describe what they should look like i just got the box today

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

How many awesome cars do you own?! Wow dude, beautiful 'Vette.

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Just a few pics of a clean engine bay.
I still have AC though, just deleted smog.
I have a new custom cold air intake waiting to be installled. So my bay will definitely look a whole lot cleaner in a few weeks here.

kerplunk318

iTrader: (3)

Lets see some more pics of that vette!

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

It's the thing that screws into the front of the box. On the back are a few differently coiled springs w/ different resistor values, they control the blower speed settings. You can remove the one that came with it and use the one that was in your AC box and retain the original wires for the AC type system that incorporates the high speed blower relay. The blower will push a lot more air with it compared to the non AC setup with just the resistors and no hi speed ( which delivers full12V to blower motor on hi speed setting) relay.

Here's some vette pics

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

HOLY F*CK! That 'Vette is better looking than I imagined. You are a very lucky man.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

built it myself, this was before:

SolarGoldRaptor

Twin_Turbo, we have to meet

I live in the north of France, on the border of Belgium (Duinkerke) and I go to the NL from time to time.

steNcho

Very nice corvette! Awesome that you still have the Curacao plate! Do you restore and build cars as a hobby or is it your work? I've never really seen these kinds of cars in Holland. But at least now I know who has them all

johnny89345

how did you mount the coil. i bought the box and same coil and there is like a half inch gap between those blocks to line up flush with the box.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

The little black bracket is the stock TPI coil bracket that I put in the sheet metal brake and added a 90 deg bend to it so the mounting flange is not straight instead of angled @ 90 deg. If you look closely at the pic you can see a V shaped bend just below the coil. The aluminum blocks attach the msd coil to the stock bracket.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Hobby, not a business...more like a money pit LOL

steNcho

Hahaha, the one thirdgen I have is a money pit for me so I can't even begin to imaging having 3 and then some other cars too . Keep up the good work though!

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

My only car is a money pit! And i'm in college too. Yet every paycheck almost 50% of it I buy random performance parts for my GTA.

johnny89345

all the stock wiring was direct plug in. honestly i feel like it blows out harder then before. the only prob is the blwer motors bad, well the new one is hopefully the ol one fits in there. its making a little buzzing noise inconsistent on and off noise though. ill figure it out tomorow. thanks for all the help man

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Yes, I felt that too. The reason the AC system has a hi speed blower relay that gives the higher speed is that the AC system is more restrictive w/ the evaporator in there, with the non AC setup you feel a good increase in air coming out the vents.

3rdgenred

iTrader: (1)

Can i get some closer up pics of the heater hoses and how you ran them. What kinds of mounts did you use in the pics to hold the heater hose in place.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

That's all the pics I have except for the 2 below. The "mounts" are simple adel clamps.





The heater valve is gone in those pics, I had to scavenge it off this car for another one for the mean time. It's still to be installed where I repositioned it. On the firewall side they still come off the heater core like stock, that remains unchanged.

3rdgenred

iTrader: (1)

How can you safely remove the ac unit stuff from your car when you go to an non ac box. theres alot of plugs and such that i know i dont need anymore so i want to get rid of them. can someone help me out? Do i need to go all the way back to the ac controls or can i just cut and tape?

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

It was a lot easier for me, because I have my whole interior apart, but I followed all of the AC/heat & radio wires back to the fuze box that's mounted under the dash. There's basically a metal support that runs from one side of the interior, up over the steering column, and continues to the other side of the interior. There's a harness that follows along that metal support that's behind the dash, so long story short, I just followed all of the AC/heat and radio related wires to there, clipped them, and capped them. You know, with them little electrical wire twist-on caps.

I like how it cleaned up the engine bay a little bit. I'm planning on buying the fiberglass one piece dash from VFN, and just fabricating a larger transmission tunnel as a larger console, that'll take up the spot where the A/C and radio controls once were.

Such as this, just not covering the passenger seat.

cIaRmOaCrZo

kind of off topic, but what kind of intake manifold is that??? iv never seen that one before...kinda looks like a trim and slender hsr.

3rdgenred

iTrader: (1)

So I can just follow the wires from the the engine bay through the firewall, to the ac unit then cut them there. I jw if there is even a lead that will go to the fuse pannel. All I want to keep is my high blower relay and the resistor I swapped over from my old one to this one. One this is I see two wires spliced out of the bundle of wires that run along the passenger side fender above the AC unit. Just don't know why someone would have done that.

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

What "A/C unit" are you talking about? There's the compressor, then there's the blower motor which sends in the heat, and A/C. The wires from that blower motor run through the firewall, to the fuse box that is mounted behind the dash on the passenger side.

I completely took everything out. The heater core, routed the coolant hose back into the manifold. Took out the blower motor, the controls, and clipped every wire that followed back to the fuse back, from that blower motor.

I did it for weight savings though. The little blower motor alone weighs 2.25 pounds, the heater core was another 2-2.5 pounds (Felt like it was around there anyway). So, that was basically 5 pounds off of the front end. Not bad for taking a couple things out. However, the resulting look wasn't that bad either. Cleaned up some wires, a blower motor, a coolant hose.

3rdgenred

iTrader: (1)

The AC Unit im referring to the the place where you cant control the AC, inside the car. Located right above the radio. I would just follow the wires from the engine bay to the AC unit then to the fuse box? I also didnt know that there was an fuse box on the passenger side of the vehicle, only on the drivers side.

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

I fear I'm using "fuse box" for lack of a better word. However, it is a metal box, which wires from the wiring harness plug into, and more wires come out of the other side. So, let's just stick to calling this "wire terminal" thing a fuse box.

I've always figured it was a fuse box, because the fuse box on the driver side always appeared to be too small, and contain only a few fuses. I'm no expert on electrical issues anyway. Luckily for me, removing the heat, A/C, and radio could have been a monkey's job. It's just following the correct wire, and snipping it. Oh, there's a couple bolts involved.

This picture sums it all up. That's practically all the wiring that third gens have from the factory, with the exception of fuel injected cars. I'm running a carb. It'll give you a good idea of what I'm talking about, and where the wires run to. Better than I could describe, anyway. LOL.

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

Oh, I forgot to answer your main question there. LOL. You'll find that the A/C and heat controls lead right up to the main wiring harness. If you look in the far left middle of that picture, you'll see where I capped one of the few wires that I capped. I believe that was the wire that lead to the light that's underneath the shifter "plate". You know, that P-R-N-D-D-2-1 gizmo.

The picture was taken before I completely cut and capped the rest of the wires, and had them just unplugged from the controls.

3rdgenred

iTrader: (1)

Okay so heres the thing that im saying though. I went ahead and switched the resistor from my working AC Unit to my non AC unit. In doing that, i have the ability to use the AC high speed blower relay and the resistor plug. Now my problem is I have alot of other wires just hanging around....pun not intended, and i want to get rid of them. How can i go about knowing and getting rid of the wires that i dont want. Thanks.