Doom86

I don't understand this thread to be honest. You asked for advice, was given the same advice from several experienced guys and didn't take it. Infernal Vortex couldn't have explained it any better, good effort there. It took him longer to write up that post and find the appropriate pictures then it would for you to properly verify what is under the hood.

Check the casting numbers then go from there.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You verified by asking the PO. I can tell you from a quick glance at the intake that the engine did NOT come from a "Vortec 5700", better known as a L31

Wrong cyl heads and timing cover. I know he didnt swap those because he was too lazy to swap even the front accessories

gsmith

What don't you understand? I don't know why people are giving me attitudes, that's juvenile, this is an internet forum lol. I know what engine it is now, why would I take things apart when I talked to the guy that built it? I wasn't able to get to the back of the engine for the casting numbers, I've tried to a few times without success, but at this point I don't need to. The only numbers I saw on the block were "880" on both sides.

The PO? The intake that I have is an Edlebrock Performer. It's also has a performer carb on top of it. He modded the engine and made it more powerful (taking it from 255hp to well over 300hp).

naf

iTrader: (7)

No question. BUT it's not a Vortec Performer intake. The Vortec intake only has eight bolts that mount it to the heads. From another post:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...-manifold.html

If it's not a Vortec manifold, those CAN'T be Vortec Heads. No matter who says what.

I've got Vortec heads with the Vortec Performer in my SC and a 350 with LO5 top end in my TA. The difference is pretty apparent. Sorry.

Doom86

Sorry that we are not telling you what you want to here like the PO (Previous Owner)did. I don't think anyone's getting rude with you, we're just being realistic. You said your self you planned on doing a lot of work to this thing and you've gotten a lot of advice on where to start. Calling and talking to the hack-job who "built" this thing doesn't prove a thing. This is how enthusiast work, we don't take someone's word for it, we dig in and find the facts.

After you get the casting number for either the block or heads you have more to do and research. But you need to find out what you are working with before you start. You also need to find out what transmission is in this thing because if it's the original 700r4 then you are going to have to find a way to get the converter to lockup or it's going to burn up.

Also does this thing have a lift kit installed on the rear end or are my eyes deceiving me? Look how high the rear is in the photo.

Good luck with your project and don't be shy; get your hands dirty, bust some knuckles, that is part of the fun.

gsmith

Sorry for my previous post, I didn't mean to sound like a jerk..I'll try to get the casting numbers, I'm just dealing with another issue right now (I got a busted freeze plug and I need to replace it..I can't believe how hard this is actually being for me).

I just trusted the guy that built it since he seemed like a pretty legit guy, but I'll verify it from the casting numbers just in case he was wrong about anything.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Even if the earlier owner was right, doesn't mean something wasn't swapped out later.

If one freeze plug is bad the others aren't far behind. Best to replace them all at once.

gsmith

Bump..

I've been getting ALL KINDS of issues with my car lately..Back on the 9th I got in my first wreck >.< I hydroplaned into a cement wall 2 days after getting liability insurance and registration on my Camaro (just my luck..)..more details about it are on my other thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ment-wall.html

Anyway, my engine keeps overheating..I just took out my thermostat that was stuck a couple days ago and it isn't as bad as it was before, but it's still running way too hot and the engine has been knocking ever since I bought the car (I don't know if it's a heat-related issue, I cannot differentiate knocking noises so I don't know what the cause is).

I only have one fan that works, and unfortunately it's a small electrical fan..I have 2 other electrical fans but they are either wired up incorrectly or are just completely blown out. I don't have a clutch fan and since the engine is so big I'm not sure if I'm even able to get one...my main worry is that the knocking noise might have to do with a rod issue, which I hope to god is not the case. What will I have to do to find out what the knocking is from?..and how can I keep my engine from overheating?..

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

The "size" of the motor doesnt make it unable to run a clutch fan, the fact that you have a serpentine setup however, does. There are 3 fans on the radiator? If you dont trust the fan controller, wire them up to a toggle switch (make sure it can handle the amps) so they come on when you want them to. Obviously, check the coolant level, and maybe flush the radiator, and make sure you have an air dam under there.

Where do you hear the knocking noise? Is it more of a "knock" or a "tap"? Is it coming from down low on the engine, or from around the valve covers?

Oh, and just to help you see why your heads cant be vortecs, here is a picture of my motor, with 906 Vortec heads. See the bolts that mount the intake to the heads? There are only 8 of them and they go straight up and down. On older style heads there will be 12 bolts, and will be angled.

camaronewbie

3 fans? weird. Are all 3 fans on engine side of rad? Can you get us a pic?

Does car overheat in traffic, or at highway speed?

gsmith

That's a sweet looking engine

I took my car over to some guy that has owned 18 Camaros throughout his life and he thinks that I have fuel-injected heads (I have literally no knowledge on engines so I don't know if what he said is true or not), which doesn't make sense to me considering I have a carb setup..I don't know exactly what type of heads I have on the engine, I'm going to have to somehow pull the entire thing out but I don't have the resources to do that at the moment.

I don't know how to describe the knocking sound honestly, I can run the engine and record it on the video then upload it to youtube if that would help at all. I do know that my carb fuel/air mixture needs to be adjusted along with my ignition timing, it's not running like it should but I don't know how to correct both of those.

gsmith

Sometimes both..it takes forever to cool down. I flushed the radiator a few times and it's full of water right now (I had some antifreeze mixture in it before but I'm super low on money at the moment). The guy I took my car to told me that at least 2 of the cylinders aren't firing correctly, so it's not even running like it really should be at all..I know it should feel a lot more powerful than it does..so much needs to be adjusted but I'm so clueless as to what to do. I can get a pic tomorrow when there's more light, I live out in the country so it's pretty dark out here right now.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, if only it ran as good as it looks, lol!

What he probably meant was that the heads on it originally came in a vehicle that had a fuel injected type of induction system on it from the factory. My heads were certainly on a fuel injected motor when they were originally put in a truck, but that doesnt mean that they cant be used with a carburetor, they work just the same.

Getting a youtube video should actually help, as the sound of a valve ticking, and a rod knocking are 2 way different things. If you want to learn about timing, and carburetor idle adjustments, youtube is also very good for things like that as well, as long as the person in the video knows what they're doing, lol.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Definitely check for an air dam. It is just a piece of plastic that is bolted under the radiator that scoops up air and directs it at the radiator, snap a pic of under the car, too, if you dont know what I am talking about. (I can be bad at explaining things, haha)

gsmith

lol, yeah I'll make a video first thing tomorrow. A couple guys at autozone think the engine sounds fine, but I've heard mixed comments from various people..so I just want to be on the safe side. One thing that reallllllly annoys me about my car is that I'm only getting about 10mpg TOPS..it's killing me, I can barely afford to drive this at all (and I live 10 miles out of town so it's at least 2 gallons just going there and back without stopping).

I was thinking about completely taking out my carb and just getting a fuel injected system..would this be a wise idea? I want better gas mileage, but I don't want to sacrifice power..this thing sounds like a beast when it runs and I don't want to change that lol.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Honestly, and I really dont want to sound like a ***** here, but I don't think that would be a wise choice right now, you would have to learn more about engines, and the components that make up an engine, before venturing into that kind of territory. Also, a fuel injection swap would be pricey, and would all depend on the choice of system. You would have to drop the tank, replace the fuel pump, replace the entire engine bays wiring harness, etc. etc..

I am interested in hearing the exhaust note as well, does the motor sound cammed? What model carb is that? It says it on the left side of the front of the mounting base of the carb, ex: "1406" would be a 600cfm carb. The reason I ask is that you claim 370hp, but it seems like a pretty mild build-up, but I could be wrong. My motor puts out an estimated 315HP, but thats with a stock cam, and stock(ish) heads.

gsmith

Yeah, it's a 1406 Edelbrock Performer Carb & Intake. The guy that built the car told me it had 370hp when he was done building it..and he apparently used to race this thing when he owned it..but for all I know a couple things may have been switched out since then. He said the engine was fully boarded out, had shaved heads, and I think there's a cam in it..it definitely sounds as though there is.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Did he say how far it was bored out? Like, mine is bored .040" out. I would assume "fully bored out" would mean .060" over, but who knows. With a big cam, I would think that it would need more than a little 600cfm carb. When you post the video it should be obvious if there is a nice cam in the motor or not, and hopefully it just has a valve tick or something not-so-serious like that.

gsmith

He didn't specify the bored length, he just said "fully bored out" so I assume it's bored out as much as possible lol. A friend of mine thinks it has a pretty big cam, I'll have to get your opinion from the video tomorrow..it idles really loud and sounds awesome, but I need the timing fixed so it can sound the way it's supposed to.

Should I just keep the current setup that I have? (The carb & intake). I need to find a way to get a little better gas mileage because it's costing me out the ***.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Find the knock.

Fix your ignition timing before going further with any other work. If you have not yet, replace your distributor cap, rotor, plugs and, if you can afford it now, wires. Most overheating problems AND mileage issues are due to poor engine tune. Get that timing set properly and make sure it's advancing correctly and you may solve most of your problems. Your carb, from the factory, should be close enough to net you around 18 mpg-depending on the rest of the setup.

gsmith

How do I go about fixing the ignition timing? Will I need specific tools to do that? I would be super happy to get 18mpg out of this instead of 10 lol.

naf

iTrader: (7)

A chilton or haynes manual is a fairly good resource for a beginner. It won't assume you already know a lot of the basic stuff like a full shop manual would. Many libraries carry them as well.

All you'll need is a timing light although a distributor wrench makes it easier.

Why did you state earlier that your timing needed to be fixed? I inferred from that statement a higher degree of familiarity with the system.

gsmith

It's what a few people I took the car to said..and I can tell that it sounds off, but I'm not experienced with actual engine mechanics. I don't know exactly how it should run or sound but at least 2 of the cylinders aren't firing correctly and lots of stuff seems to need adjustment.

Doom86

It sounds like reading through this that you are taking advice from too many different people. Always consider the source.

Have you checked the casting numbers on this mystery motor yet? Naf showed you what a Vortec Performer intake looks like and it's not what you have. The guy who "built" this lost all credibility. If I were to guess I'd say it's a 190hp TBI van motor with a intake and carb.

The poor mileage is probably due to the carb, the 700r TCC, and bad tune.

How do you know it's overheating?

How do you know the timing is off? Did the guy with 18 Camaros check?

Go back to Autozone and hand the ex-McDonalds employee at the counter 25$ and tell him you need a repair manual for your car and start reading. That and using good keywords for your problems will get you where you need to be.

gsmith

Here's a video of my Camaro and how it sounds when it idles & runs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Mj1bwKXf3M

gsmith

Since uploading the video this morning, I changed the ignition timing myself (by ear), I'm sure it's not perfect but now it seems to take off and run 10x easier than before, and it sounds a lot more stable than before, it changed the feel of the car a lot and I definitely think it helped

Also, sorry for the crappy quality of the video, the actual engine sounds different than what you will hear when you watch my upload..I'm just hoping that the knocking sound isn't because of a rod or anything, that would really suck right now.

Doom86

Check for burnt spark plug wires, check them all where they could contact the headers. The wire @ :58 sec in the video looks like it was cooked on the header.

Get a timing light or find someone with one to use to set the timing. This is not something to guess at IMO. If you plan on doing any kind of tuning at all this is something you should get for sure.

camaronewbie

I don't hear any knock - I have a knock myself, but I don't hear it in yours. I hear a tick, not a knock.

For the tick, in this order (if #1 doesn't help, try #2, etc)...Pay attention to pass side - seems stronger there...

1) as mentioned, make sure all plug wires are good, all the way on the cap and the plugs.
2) Check for loose header bolts. I didn't see any locking header bolts, just reg bolts - they will back out CONSTANTLY from the constant heating/cooling cycle. Get those all tightened down.
3) Check for exhaust leaks at the header gasket - maybe the gasket has blown out somewhere - if needs replaced use a dead soft aluminum gasket - they are on the shelf at almost every autoparts store - they are real thick, get mashed when inserted and tightened, and seal real well.
4) Check for exhaust leak anywhere else - where the header collectors attach to the Y-pipe, where the Y-pipe connects to cat converter, etc - any exhaust leak between engine and cat will create a tick.
5) If all this fails and tick persists, might need a valve adjustment

For the timing...
1) get a timing light - if you have a Harbor Freight close by they are only $15 for a basic light.
2) get a distributor wrench - worth their weight in gold, about $8 - any auto parts store
3) get a timing tape - about $11 - will have to order from Summit, Jegs, etc. It's a tape that wraps around harmonic balancer so you can see timing marks above the 12 degrees that the tab shows
4) you want total timimg to be about 32-36 degrees advanced at about 3200 rpms - of course you're going to need a friend, and get that tach fixed first.
5) make sure you disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and cap it when setting the initial timing using any method other than by ear

* If the tach is a no-go, see if anyone has a digital timing light you can borrow - that eliminates the need for the timing tape and the tach, as it does it all (but they are about $120 new, so see if you can borrow one).

Tuning the carb...
with motor off - screw the two screws on front of carb all the way in, gently, until you feel them seat all the way - gently, no man-handling. Then turn them both out 1 1/2 turns - that should be a basic mixture adjustment. Later, when you get timing set better, you can adjust tiny bits at a time with motor running to see if you get more rpms at idle - if you adjust and get higher rpms, then readjust the idle screw to lower idle and then readjust again. Again, this is very basic tuning method.

The fans - the one not working seems to be a nice looking fan - not sure what the other two look like - get either one larger fan wired in to keep your temps below 220, or get the two smaller ones to do the job - there's no need for 3 - that was someone's feeble attempt, and a great waste of effort. I have a single 14 or 16in stock fan on a stock radiator with a Flex-a-lite fan controller and I never have any overheating issues - I never get above 220 even on the hottest of days when I'm really ******* the car intown, and with my headers, my engine gets quite warm!

That's my feeble advise - I'm by no means any expert - but those are some basics to check and fiddle with.

naf

iTrader: (7)

#2 on the possible header leak.

Replace those plug wires and secure them out of the way of the headers. You don't need the super expensive ones, or even the mildly expensive ones. New plugs, cap/rotor and a timing light should get you near there.

Someone's boogered up your stock fan, you may have to remove the snout off the water pump pulley to get it right. And maybe a trip to the JY to get any plastic pieces that are broken.

gsmith

Cool, thanks for all the feedback guys!

I took out the 2 fans that weren't wired correctly and rewired them (pretty ghetto-setup, but it's a temporary fix), they both work now, I have them grounded into my radiator and wired to my battery..I need to wire them up to my other fan somehow but I don't know how to do that yet, it can work for now since I unhook my battery cable every time I turn off my engine anyway. This should definitely help with the overheating.

I will make another video showing the idling of my engine, it idles at a slightly higher RPM and it takes off much faster than before (I barely have to put my foot on the pedal and it wants to drive to the moon)..it feels much more smooth and responsive than before, but I'll go ahead and get the timing equipment so I can fine-tune it to a perfect state.

I definitely need to replace all my spark plug and spark plug wires..I don't know how much that will cost me but it's something I need to get done asap..along with some new rear tires and probably brakes

gsmith

And about the possible header leak, if that's the problem that I'm dealing with, how would I go about checking it, and resolving the issue? (And will it cost a fortune to fix?). I'll try to make a higher quality video and upload it tomorrow so you can hear what the engine sounds like more accurately. Also, how much would a decent set of spark plug wires cost me? Thank you.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Header leak is an inexpensive fix. Just a new gasket. Go with what they suggested which is the kind that hangs on the shelf of the parts store, its thick, and makes a good seal.

I recommend these wires:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-5554/

I recently bought/installed them, and I am very satisfied. They're easy on the wallet too. Just stay away from the yellow accel wires (ironically, the ones you have now) , in my experience they are very prone to burning, even the boots melt!

RyanEricW

As carmaronewbie said 3 posts up.

2) Check for loose header bolts. I didn't see any locking header bolts, just reg bolts - they will back out CONSTANTLY from the constant heating/cooling cycle. Get those all tightened down.

@ 1:08, the bottom right corner, you see the cast iron exhaust headers and the bolts holding them to the heads.

I honestly never heard an exhaust leak make a clapping noise as it sounds like. To me it sounds like cylinder #2 loose valve. (Passenger side, closest to bumper under the valve covers) Also never heard a spark wire make clapping noises like that before.

Remove the valve covers when the car is cool, and try to move the rocker arms, see if any are really loose. Sounds like #2, or perhaps #4

madbomber824

iTrader: (2)

One of easiest ways to check for header leak is to start ur car at night or in a dark place and watch for sparks. Then once u find the leak u prob will need new exhaust gaskets from local auto store. Replace them and should be ok. I like the aluminum layered gaskets that press together as you tighten header bolts. I seem to get a much better seal out of those although a little more pricey.

If ticking noise still occurs it could be a stuck lifter.

You should try to get those valve covers off that engine and get numbers for us.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Well, I watched the video and payed close attention to a few things, lol.

1) There is no rod knock, so thats a VERY good thing. However there may be a valve tick, definitely from the passenger side as stated above. I do see some black buildup around a couple of the exhaust ports where the header meets the head. This black buildup could be carbon from the exhaust, signifying an exhaust leak, but it could also just be some old road grime, or some old oil. On a side note, I have been using regular old header bolts on my cars, and I have never had one back out on me, but thats just my experience, though.

2) I think, judging by the exhaust note, the car has a pretty stock cam. The exhaust sure sounds real good, but the cam isn't too wild.

3) You REALLY need to properly attach a fan or 2, and wire them up in a way that you KNOW will cool your engine. The way the one is on there kind of scares me, looks like it can come loose and get trapped in your belt, which would be a bad thing.

4) I see you moved that fuel pump off of the motor, good idea. Haha.

gsmith

Bump..I just purchased these set of wires (from another site):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-5570/

They should be arriving soon..hopefully these will do me good. I actually replaced that old fuel pump since it was leaking gasoline, and got a new one just like it (and bolted it down of course lol, unlike the last guy that had the car).

I also got the 2 bigger fans to work, but I can't find a way to wire them into my small fan so I can just flip the switch to turn them on..wiring really isn't my thing, I got a lot to learn.

I will do what I can to check for a possible header leak and get it fixed asap..what kind of problems can that cause in an engine?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Well, a small header leak will only cause an annoying noise, really. If it was a big leak, I would fix it asap, but its not. Those are the wires I have on my motor, they're real nice for the price. Make sure you route them away from the headers, get some cheap wire seperators if you can, I got a set for 6 bucks, they keep everything nice and neat, and they look real good, too.

RyanEricW

Again. Check for loose rocker arms.

zachkuby87

ok im starting to think that u need to sit down do some research listen to what these guys are saying pull the numbers and figure out what you have for sure i dont think its a 5.7 vortec "modded" to 370hp cause i just sold a bone stock 5.7 vortec to a guy that wanted to rebuild/build it or "mod" it as you would say for 700$... now a camaro in decent shape with a "modded" 370hp vortec is worth a lot more than 900$ imho....
so im pretty sure the guy is taking advantage of your igorance with cars and lying his a$$ off.. it happens trust me i was told my car had a 350 bored .30 over out of a 71 vette yeah the car was quick but i tore it down today and out of curiosity i ran the numbers and it is infact started life as a 170hp 79 350. and to me it just doesnt look like a vortec 350.. and didnt you say at the beginning he told you it was an edelbrock performance motor?


edit:this post was after reading only the first page but i still stand by what i said from the video it sounds like a stock motor to me as for the ticking i would listen to them guys and hope its not a lifter cause i had a similar sound coming from mine well it got worse and thats why i tore it down today and found 3 bad lifters a completely shot cam and now i have an engine rebuild to do

RyanEricW

I don't get why people ask for help and ignore very important suggestions / information

gsmith

And I don't get why people post useless crap in my threads...

I don't recall ignoring anything, I can't do every single thing suggested to me at the same time, I'm a novice at auto work and this is the first time I've even worked on an engine before. I don't want to risk destroying something when I have no clue as to what I'm doing..not to mention a lot of these things to get checked will require me to purchase new parts (gaskets, etc.), and I'm pretty damn limited on my funds right now, so I'm only getting stuff that's absolutely necessary first (such as spark plug wires).

I have no clue how to check for loose rocker arms, I don't even know what those are yet..if I was ignoring what people were telling me I wouldn't have gotten half the stuff I did already.

RyanEricW

Don't be rude, at least acknowledge what people say and ask questions about it if you don't understand it. If you needed a new gasket people would tell you 99% of the time.
Seeing as your car should not be driven around like that, worst case scenario, say you did damage the gasket, I don't think it is much a problem replacing a $10 gasket to figure out a potentially catastrophic problem, which could end up costing you thousands for a new motor, is a big deal. Now you are new to cars, so I know this **** seems complicated, so just pay attention to what people are saying and use common sense. You either want it fixed cheap, or fixed right. I assume you want it fixed right or you wouldn't be here. Taking the valve covers off is the easiest thing you can do on the engine... Get the ID number, make sure nothing metal/pieces of hard objects like nuts/bolts get inside the area that is exposed once the valve covers are removed.
Get rude and you wont get help simple as that...

zachkuby87

u ask for advice tell everyone you dont know what your doin and then try to tell them theyre wrong when they give you the advice you asked for... and tell everybody here you have a 370 hp vortec 5700 because the po says so... sell the car to someone that wants to take the time to fix it buy a honda and go waste there time with your nonsense im sure you will fit right in on the honda forums...

RyanEricW

made me laugh really hard there!
I don't mean to be an ***, I know we all need help sometimes a lot, but at least try. Taking 4 bolts off each side is cheaper than replacing wires. Were the wires even damaged / arching? Arching you usually will see a very small electrical spark coming from the damaged part of a wire to any ground source (any metal on engine or frame) every time the cylinder should fire. Usually makes a small tick/zip sound.

gsmith

You're clearly a confused idiot, do something productive and get out of my thread. Please point out where I said people were wrong about anything, aside from your ignorant post. GTFO.

gsmith

His post just pissed me off, I have no interest in reading stupidity, so why even post such ridiculous crap in my thread? Anyway, my wires are pretty much fried, the headers burnt right through a couple of them so at least 2 of my cylinders aren't firing correctly. I haven't seen any sparks coming from the area with the wires before but I usually start it in the daytime so it would be hard to see that anyway. I already purchased my new set of wires online so they'll be here in a couple days hopefully..I'll go to Autozone and get a new gasket once I take my valve covers off.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

That engine has standard 87+ heads by the center intake bolt angles and valve covers. Id be willing to bet that its an L03, the same engine the car would have come with from the factory. At most, your looking at 190 HP. You can tell for sure by popping a valve cover off and checking the casting numbers.

Sounds like the PO was blowing a bunch of smoke your way, and you bought into it.

gsmith

Could have been the case, but the guy that was telling me about the car wasn't the same one that I bought it from, he was the owner before the guy I bought the car from..I just don't understand why he would lie to me, it wouldn't serve him a purpose. I'll get those valve covers off and get the casting number.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Wow, the wiring in that thing is a mess. Makes me anxious just looking at it. Any plans to gut it all and clean it up?

How is the radiator set up? Looks like it has no overflow bottle from teh video. The bottle is just sort of sitting off to the side.

RyanEricW

You asked. You basically said PO is right and serves no purpose to lie to you. When in fact if you wrote this in contract form, he has every purpose to lie to you to prevent a falsified sale/advertising. Could potentially take him to small claims court.
EDIT: Just seen you said you talked to the owner before the one you bought it from? Do you know how easy it is to pull a chevy motor and drop another one in? The guy could've just bought the car for the engine, plopped another in and sold it to you and lied about it. That would explain the wire mess if the owner before the last claims the car was a true vortec...

Also, if he knows how much HP this car has, and he went to UTI, they have dynos at the school you can use, ask him for the dyno sheet for that car... bet it doesn't exist and lied to you.

I went to UTI 08-09 and graduated top of my class and I can say there are just as many retards that goto that school and don't pay attention (waste money) than there are people that do pay attention, actually learn. Those kids give the whole school a bad rap, especially most of the import crowd.

Although I graduated top of the class, I by all means do not know everything, and I do make dumb mistakes time to time, but seeing as I obtained half my ASE's in one nights of testing my first time, and when I study, gain experience by passed on knowledge/experience, I am very good at what I do.

Please don't judge the whole school by what one person did. The wiring in that car looks terrible, my car is no better as I got it that way (in process of fixing it), but if my electronics teacher seen that I ever did something like that, Mr. Chapen, he would kick me or whoever in the *** LoL.