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Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

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Old 04-02-2010, 01:45 AM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

Originally Posted by 88formula305tpi
I just took my car out for the first time after rebuild and it backfires under acceleration, otherwise it runs and sounds great. i am gunna try putting 93 in it. It is a tpi and i set the timing to 6 deg. btdc with tan wire disconnected. When i plug the wire back in and restart it the engine light stays out and the timing is at about 20-25 deg off the scale. I think my problem may be my new knock sensor that may be the wrong appplication. Any help would be apreciated. I hope its not the valve lash inncorect i went 3/4 turn after the slack was out.
Although I dont know much about efi, I would say from the information I have gathered, 3/4 of a turn is too much. I would only go 1/4 of a turn.

Good luck!
Old 04-02-2010, 02:39 AM
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Car: 1978 Chevrolet impala
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

If that dizzy you have was one of those Ebay'd bits, it's not surprising that was the problem.

I won't ever, EVER trust ebay for something more complicated than a headlight motor. Even then it's iffy. an HEI dizzy from summit is 90 bux, the price difference is negligible for the confidence gained.
Old 04-02-2010, 08:47 PM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

its a used accel dizzy i bought and had second thoughts cuz i noticed everything was taken apart on the thing. I set the air gap on the tone wheel inside to .010" and dropped it in. I looked at the wires this morning and realized 6 and 5 were switched. Yeah its a rookie mistake for just rebuilding the engine but at least its an easy fix. It sounded good untill I took off and then It was an embarassing 6 mile trip with the backfiring.

The ebay distributors look like decent quality but im not sure if the module inside would work good. I wish I bought a new accel one because I realized there was a gouge in the part on the shaft that seals the oil gallerly if Im correct.
Old 04-04-2010, 08:17 AM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

I've got pretty much the same motor as you that i just built/installed in my car except i have a ZZ4 roller cam.I think you've heard all you need to about timing.Personally,i had a couple of issues with mine that might be helpful to you once you get her running.Mine started up fine, but developed a miss after a couple of days.It would barely idle and shook abit.I thought maybe my valves needed readjustment so i gave them all a 1/2 turn more because i could still turn the pushrods(0 lash).Started it up,shook REALLY bad now.Come to find out,my roller cam is set at 0 Lash,not 0 + 1/2 turn like i have set all my flat tappet cams.I'm not sure if your roller cam is set at 0 lash or not,but you should make sure.I finally traced my miss to the plugs that i re-used from the Vortecs i bought.They were AC platinums and they looked good,but the #7 and #8 plugs were wet and obviously not firing.I installed new AC R44LTS plugs and she's running good now.
Don't give up,you'll get it after a while.
Old 04-04-2010, 01:55 PM
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The proper rocker adjustment is 1 turn down from zero lash.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:08 PM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

Originally Posted by MTCAMARO
I've got pretty much the same motor as you that i just built/installed in my car except i have a ZZ4 roller cam.I think you've heard all you need to about timing.Personally,i had a couple of issues with mine that might be helpful to you once you get her running.Mine started up fine, but developed a miss after a couple of days.It would barely idle and shook abit.I thought maybe my valves needed readjustment so i gave them all a 1/2 turn more because i could still turn the pushrods(0 lash).Started it up,shook REALLY bad now.Come to find out,my roller cam is set at 0 Lash,not 0 + 1/2 turn like i have set all my flat tappet cams.I'm not sure if your roller cam is set at 0 lash or not,but you should make sure.I finally traced my miss to the plugs that i re-used from the Vortecs i bought.They were AC platinums and they looked good,but the #7 and #8 plugs were wet and obviously not firing.I installed new AC R44LTS plugs and she's running good now.
Don't give up,you'll get it after a while.
I hate to go against five7, hes helped me out GREATLY, but I think your right on the money with what you said.

I readjusted all valves after I got her running, I went Zero lash, and 1/4 turn, ran worse than before, shook like hell, awful. I then remembered what you had said, and figured, what the hell, I'll give it a shot, backed off my 1/4 turn, and it was a night and day difference, no shaking, lower idle, just sounded 'better', I think the valves are set fine now, but theres something else that is real irritating. When I accelerate very slowly, the car is fine, but when I go and give it a little more gas, the car jumps back and forth real bad, and makes me look like an idiot, with my car jumping like that(lol).

Any ideas on that?

(Thanks for the info about the ZZ4 cam, I think I have one of those, heh)
Old 04-08-2010, 11:13 AM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

if you have your dist. in the right spot... then is it possible that you have the cam turned 180.... i have done this before.. it will still run like that but not too great and you get a major loss of power . the easiest way to know is if the chain is loose on one side or the whole chain seems looser then what it should be. i cant say why it is that way but from my experience ( when i did it) for some reason the chain was loose when it was 180 off, and it tightened up when i put it in right. but mine did the same thing until i finally found out that i had the cam 180 off. i hope this isnt the case for you . cause it sucks fixing it when the engine is in the car

also maybe you should put the old dist. back in and see if you can get it goin good. if that works then its probebly a dist. problem. I had my dist 180 off and it back fired like a shotgun.. then the car never ran good again. until i put my old dist back in then it worked fine. discovered that not only did i blow out the condenser in the dis. but it actually ruined my new dis. all together. i went through 3 coils tryin to figure out what was wrong, and that was after i replaced the condenser. so you can actually mess up the whole distributer tryin to fire it up too many times 180 off or any degree off for that matter
Old 04-08-2010, 05:14 PM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

I highly doubt thats my problem. My Timing is impeccable. It fires right up, and idles great, I have driven it a bit without issue, just the back and forth jumping.
Old 04-08-2010, 09:23 PM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

I'm glad you are having some success finally.As for your jerking problem,I had a lean miss one time when i installed a different carb(Holley)and it kind of felt like what you describe.I went up a couple of jet sizes and it went away.Another thing that comes to mind is the distributor gear.When you use a roller cam,you have to use either a bronze gear or the melonized ones that GM sells for their crate motors.I used the melonized gear.I've heard of guys using the old iron gears and them wearing down against the hard roller cam in no time,causing erratic timing.I was so paranoid about this i cut alittle channel in the body of my distributor to spray oil on the gear.
I'm probably off base,but thats all i got at the moment.Anybody else?
Old 04-09-2010, 08:27 AM
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Re: Issues with new motor, doesnt want to run.

Might want to check fuel pressure. If you backed the valves off 1/4 turn and it ran better they may still be to tight.
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